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マズダスピード3
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All the ECU stuff is super confusing. I've been compiling all the info I have on it as well as ECU pinouts I've put together. When it's done I'll post about it here.
I’ve seen some gnarly wiring over the years. Some owners were putting resistors inline to control and adapt the lift. I think that was using a celica gts ecu with a 1zz harness. Most likely, my memory doesn’t serve me right now.

How did you add the second OCV into the harness? I don’t recall if my xrs had a electrical connector. 😂
 
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I’ve seen some gnarly wiring over the years. Some owners were putting resistors inline to control and adapt the lift. I think that was using a celica gts ecu with a 1zz harness. Most likely, my memory doesn’t serve me right now.

How did you add the second OCV into the harness? I don’t recall if my xrs had a electrical connector. 😂
Years ago, someone recommended using the 00-02 Corolla 4 speed auto engine harness for this swap, that way you can repin it to match the Celica GTS ECU and use the extra automatic transmission wires for lift. Then you can just splice the lift plugs into the A/T Wires. I wouldn't really recommend this because it's easy to mix up these wires and they don't really sit well with the rest of the harness. I just ran seperate wires with the lift plugs spliced onto them from the OCV to the ECU. I had to cut a small slit in a rubber grommet to pass them through the firewall, but It all works great.

I really don't recommend repining a harness like that. It's really easy to mess up a wire because you have to shuffle several wires at once. When you make a jumper/adapter, you can build it 1 wire at a time, and having the original harness in tact makes troubleshooting way easier.
 

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マズダスピード3
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Years ago, someone recommended using the 00-02 Corolla 4 speed auto engine harness for this swap, that way you can repin it to match the Celica GTS ECU and use the extra automatic transmission wires for lift. Then you can just splice the lift plugs into the A/T Wires. I wouldn't really recommend this because it's easy to mix up these wires and they don't really sit well with the rest of the harness. I just ran seperate wires with the lift plugs spliced onto them from the OCV to the ECU. I had to cut a small slit in a rubber grommet to pass them through the firewall, but It all works great.

I really don't recommend repining a harness like that. It's really easy to mess up a wire because you have to shuffle several wires at once. When you make a jumper/adapter, you can build it 1 wire at a time, and having the original harness in tact makes troubleshooting way easier.
Definitely easier to create a jumper. Though, some repinning required?
 

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Definitely easier to create a jumper. Though, some repinning required?
Not really, but you do have to add a couple wires for the OBD port, one for the AC idle up (not 100% sure), one to provide switched 12v to the IGSW pin, and the lift wires.

There's also some issues with the radiator fans being stuck on. I haven't figured that out yet.
 

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マズダスピード3
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Not really, but you do have to add a couple wires for the OBD port, one for the AC idle up (not 100% sure), one to provide switched 12v to the IGSW pin, and the lift wires.

There's also some issues with the radiator fans being stuck on. I haven't figured that out yet.
With the addition of the ac idle up, I’m wondering if it cancels the switch to close when the ect opens. Would you be able to control it with a resistor inline or is that just for resistance and preventing the circuit from surging itself.
 

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With the addition of the ac idle up, I’m wondering if it cancels the switch to close when the ect opens. Would you be able to control it with a resistor inline or is that just for resistance and preventing the circuit from surging itself.
I'm not sure about any of it. I do know that the 8th gen has a standalone controller for the AC, so I believe it's a signal issue, I need to let the ECM know that the air conditioning is running so it'll idle up.
 

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マズダスピード3
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I'm not sure about any of it. I do know that the 8th gen has a standalone controller for the AC, so I believe it's a signal issue, I need to let the ECM know that the air conditioning is running so it'll idle up.
I keep forgetting it’s a gen 8 chassis.
 

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99 Corolla
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So my dad thinks that wiring the ECU like that is a terrible idea is there any particular reason not to use the 2z engine harness? That way it all plugs into the engine and ecu no extra wires or anything? I’d rather keep the 1z harness that way the car functions the same and I don’t have to make a hybrid harness
Why not have your dad help wire it up then?
 

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2002 Chevrolet Prizm 1zzfe 5spd
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Why not have your dad help wire it up then?
He’s probably going to end up helping me solder because I’ve never done it ,actually I’ve never done any of this , I did the clutch a few months ago so that’s where I’m at for experience LOL, BUT on a happier note
Engine is on the way it’ll be here like the 18/19th
The Ecu aswell it’s a 03 matrix 89661-01040
Also @1998Prizm you had mentioned getting male ecu plugs from a junkyard , is that my only option? I did some digging and couldn’t really find anything perhaps I’m not looking under the right stones?
 

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For your swap, you'll need male ECU plugs from a Matrix and female side for a 2000-2002 Corolla/Prizm 5 speed. I just checked on eBay and can't find the male Matrix plugs, so a junkyard is going to be your best bet. The best donor car for that is going to be an 03-04 Toyota Matrix or Pontiac Vibe. You'll need a wiring depin tool to move a couple wires around for lift. You can get those on Amazon for super cheap. You can also use a sewing needle if you're careful.
 

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2002 Chevrolet Prizm 1zzfe 5spd
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Well i started tearing into the car today , and I did not realize just how many wires and hoses and THINGS there are and I just don’t know what they are and I labeled some things to kinda remember where they go but after comparing the intake manifold on the 2zz to the 1zz and seeing that connections are in different spots I’ve changed tactics to unplug as many things as possible and I feel like this is a terrible idea but I want to get the 2z in and then i don’t think it will be too hard to figure out hoses and plugs
 

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Well i started tearing into the car today , and I did not realize just how many wires and hoses and THINGS there are and I just don’t know what they are and I labeled some things to kinda remember where they go but after comparing the intake manifold on the 2zz to the 1zz and seeing that connections are in different spots I’ve changed tactics to unplug as many things as possible and I feel like this is a terrible idea but I want to get the 2z in and then i don’t think it will be too hard to figure out hoses and plugs
Once you get the 1zz out, and the 2zz in, you can lay the wiring harness on top of the engine in roughly the right spot, and everything will line up just fine. It doesn't look like it will, but it does. When you get to the point where you need to put the vacuum lines on, I'll send you detailed pictures of my setup.

One thing you have to piece together is the power steering pump. For that, set the 1zz and 2zz PS pumps next to each other on a workbench and look at the fittings. Theres a big bolt on both pumps and if you unbolt both, the fittings for each pump will come off and you'll be able to put the 1zz power steering pump fitting on the 2zz pump. That way you'll be able to retain all the power steering stuff without any custom hoses.

What's your AC setup like? Do you plan on keeping the AC?
 

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マズダスピード3
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Once you get the 1zz out, and the 2zz in, you can lay the wiring harness on top of the engine in roughly the right spot, and everything will line up just fine. It doesn't look like it will, but it does. When you get to the point where you need to put the vacuum lines on, I'll send you detailed pictures of my setup.

One thing you have to piece together is the power steering pump. For that, set the 1zz and 2zz PS pumps next to each other on a workbench and look at the fittings. Theres a big bolt on both pumps and if you unbolt both, the fittings for each pump will come off and you'll be able to put the 1zz power steering pump fitting on the 2zz pump. That way you'll be able to retain all the power steering stuff without any custom hoses.

What's your AC setup like? Do you plan on keeping the AC?
Maybe go electric power steering instead of belt driven.
 
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Maybe go electric power steering instead of belt driven.
Yeah that's an option. You would need a PS delete pulley (I think MWR sells them), a hose, and an EHPS pump from a Spyder. I'd like to go that route so I can switch off PS when I want. I do think it's easier to just swap the fittings though, it's pretty self explanatory when both pumps are sitting next to each other. I can send a photo of my PS setup if needed.
 

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2002 Chevrolet Prizm 1zzfe 5spd
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Once you get the 1zz out, and the 2zz in, you can lay the wiring harness on top of the engine in roughly the right spot, and everything will line up just fine. It doesn't look like it will, but it does. When you get to the point where you need to put the vacuum lines on, I'll send you detailed pictures of my setup.

One thing you have to piece together is the power steering pump. For that, set the 1zz and 2zz PS pumps next to each other on a workbench and look at the fittings. Theres a big bolt on both pumps and if you unbolt both, the fittings for each pump will come off and you'll be able to put the 1zz power steering pump fitting on the 2zz pump. That way you'll be able to retain all the power steering stuff without any custom hoses.

What's your AC setup like? Do you plan on keeping the AC?
Soooo the 2z that I got , doesn’t have a power steering pump on it so I guess I’m adding that to the list , and yeah I’m hoping to keep my A/C I had my fingers crossed the compressor was just gonna bolt on to the new engine , I’m trying to not crack a line but we shall see
 

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Soooo the 2z that I got , doesn’t have a power steering pump on it so I guess I’m adding that to the list , and yeah I’m hoping to keep my A/C I had my fingers crossed the compressor was just gonna bolt on to the new engine , I’m trying to not crack a line but we shall see
I just got my AC put together and working about a month ago. I used washers and longer bolts to space the compressor out from the engine so the AC line will clear the thermostat housing. You also need to use an accessory drive belt that's a bit longer. One for for a 90's V6 Camaro fits perfect.

Edit: 1993 Camaro 3.4 liter V6. The belt came in a couple different sizes depending on engine options, but the one you're after has an "effective length" of about 77 inches. Parts store brand was the cheapest, that's what I'm running.
 

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2002 Chevrolet Prizm 1zzfe 5spd
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
OKAY so finally got my A/C compressor off and I’m getting ready to take the bell housing bolts off and I’m looking at them I totally forgot about it from when I did my clutch , there’s one bolt at the bottom blocked by the crossmember , do I take all the other bolts out then loosen it as much as I can and wiggle the motor out or do I HAVE to drop the crossmember?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
IMO it's best to pull the engine and transmission together, then pull the bell housing bolts once the engine is out of the engine bay.
I really did not want to do that because I didn’t want to pull my CVs and 3 other mounts sigh
if I can do it the way I’m talking about then that’s how ima try, that and then my dad would be right LOL
 
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