[Skiermang]

Might as well put some pictures up here in case it can help someone later down the road. Here's a collection of photos I've taken after taking the motor/tranny out:

Doh, exhaust stud broke off. Surprisingly, before I even touched it with a wrench:

I have a lot more photos in this directory you can look through. There's a few closeups in case someone else finds it helpful.

 

[Doctor J]

Thanks for the real great pictures!!!
The broken stud in this place is common. It is due to ex. manifold warpage. You may consider to resurface it. In my prevuious threads I provided write-up how I pulled the broken part from my car, without ehxaust manifold removal (I used drilling bushing ,cordless drill and 5 mm or 3/16 inch drill bit plus Bosch 1/4 inch easy-out with fine flutes).
The oil leak under the broken stud is signature for pre-1990 3 S-fe and also a sign of long time ago overheating.
The engine inside looks much cleaner that I expected considering the mileage (and a lot cleaner then my).
Could you please provide the pictures from timing belt side and later from the flexplate side of the engine. Thanks!

 

[ThomasToTots]

wow your engine looks a little differant than mine. only real diferance I saw is your water inlet (the one next to the distributor hole)mine is shorter and has the connections after the pile (im pretty sure) are there modifications betweens years on the same engine?

 

[fredk]

the studs are famous for breaking, use grade 8 studs and nuts with spring washers and you might want to put a 3sge manifold and downpipe on it and put the cat converter under the car and get rid of the retarded cat in manifold setup you have now, now lets see that crank

 

[Skiermang]

Quick note for future reference: the bolts needed for the crank pulley puller are 6mm diameter and 1.00mm pitch.

None of the bolts that came with the puller worked so I hit the hardware store for some guess and check.

 

[Skiermang]

After popping open the oil pan, looks like we found the culprit:

Checking con rod cap thrust:

This connecting rod had seen some miles and abuse:

Oh snap:

The edge got hammered:

At this point in time you just can't help but laugh:

Ha:

Mains looked roasted:

Scoring on the crank, game over:

Looks like it's new motor time. Ah well, a new motor shipped is two or three months payment on a newer car and the new motor should have another 200k left in it.

My diagnosis: oil pickup screen was clogged and engine was starved at high RPMs, spinning bearings.

 

[TBayToyotaBoy]

Awesome write-up/pictorial. These are invaluable, especially as the "fleet" of gen2's ages and more or them require the overhaul. Touch wood, all of my Yotas from this period (87-91) have gone past 400,000km without needing major work. But you never know...:ugh3:

 

[Doctor J]

Do you have pictures of the crankshaft thrust washers?

 

[Skiermang]

Do you have pictures of the crankshaft thrust washers?

There are on the right:

 

[Doctor J]

Thanks!
and what was the crank endplay?

 

[Skiermang]

No problem!

After pulling the pistons and seeing how thrashed the connection rod bearings were, we didn't bother checking crank end play. Judging by the wear on the thrust bearings I don't think it would be in spec.

 

[mcx]

excellent pix's...anychance you have a pix of the engine with the timing covers/balancer removed...i 'll be doing my first timing belt this spring and would love to see a real photo other than a shop manual drawing.

 

[Skiermang]

I'm afraid this is the only photo I took of the lower area:

 

[mcx]

thanks...that'll work fine...someone should STICKY this thread!!

 

[Doctor J]

^+1 Lets ask the Admin/ mod
and lets stick the cylinder head thread too!!

 

[jefe]

Thanks for the real great pictures!!!
The broken stud in this place is common. It is due to ex. manifold warpage. You may consider to resurface it. In my prevuious threads I provided write-up how I pulled the broken part from my car, without ehxaust manifold removal (I used drilling bushing ,cordless drill and 5 mm or 3/16 inch drill bit plus Bosch 1/4 inch easy-out with fine flutes).
The oil leak under the broken stud is signature for pre-1990 3 S-fe and also a sign of long time ago overheating.
The engine inside looks much cleaner that I expected considering the mileage (and a lot cleaner then my).
Could you please provide the pictures from timing belt side and later from the flexplate side of the engine. Thanks!

What causes the oil leak in this area?

 

[Skiermang]

What causes the oil leak in this area?

I, too, am curious. My current wild-ass guess is a very slight headgasket leak on that corner due to warping of the head or engine deck.

 

[Doctor J]

The large metal mass on the head in this corner and 6mm gasket with make tis aresa prone to leak.Some 3SFE are leaking coolant between 2 and 3rd cyl. in front of the engine.

 

[ThomasToTots]

I have to ask a question. I just pulled the pistons and did the rings. but on the bearings They didnt look scored or marked very smooth and the engine ran very smoothly before I took it apart. other than the hammered end, can you clarify on the scoring you were refering to? for referance I saw the damage to the bearings they do look beat. but I am more intrested in the crank.

 

[Skiermang]

It's tough to show the scoring on the crank. However, if you run your fingernail across the grooved sections, you can feel the gouging in the bearing surface area.

There are also a place or two where there is a raised bump on the bearing surface area. It may be a chunk of bearing material that was "welded" to the crank from the heat and will come off nicely or it could be on there until expensive machining.

As a thread update, I ordered a top end gasket kit and the JDM motor is waiting to be picked up. My buddy and I will get it tomorrow afternoon, then I'll strip it down to the block and plasti-gage the lower end bearings to make sure they're ok. Then the usual replace water pump and timing belt. Motor should be good for a long while after that.