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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 98 Corolla that slid off a snowy road went in a bank and the whole front of the car bent upwards.... and I need an engine for a grain auger.....
I am thinking of running the auger either through a belt drive from the transmission output OR hydraulically from a direct engine mount pumpset.

So this is the question.... how hard is it to get the engine to run standalone?
I am a HD mechanic and handy with electrical.... my only hope is the wiring dosmt get real messy.... i would like to delete much of what is not needed for standalone operation, and I don't want the check engine light on.
I will possibly run the gauge cluster.

Ideas, opinions please.
...oh... and the pic is of the engine I want to use..... it is a 3SFE.. right??
Forgive my ignorance... I'm not a real Toyota guy....
 

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Toyota Collector
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Here's the thing, if you want to run the engine standalone you'll need to mount it, have a fuel tank with return line, exhaust system with O2 sensor (to avoid a CEL). You'll need most of the engine harness intact and some of the body harness (going to the fuel pump).

In other words the setup will be quite complex, there's a reason people that do similar projects use the simplest carburated engine they can find. It would be far easier to keep the engine in the car and run it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yea I realise it may be complex to most, but really how hard can it be? I have a fully equipped shop and all winter to do it :)
O2 sensor no problem.....
Fuel pump with return and pump no problem....
I'm curious if there is a transmission controller and or a body control module that are gonna muddle things up for me.
I am a licensed tech and electrical dosn' t scare me.

I'm just testing the waters, I know I can look for myself once I start the project, but just wanted to see if anyone had any first hand experience with stand alone operation.

Last winter's project.....
 

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I don't know because you're in an unknown (to me) country/location that has models we don't have in North America. That engine looks to me like the 3S-FE in the 1st generation RAV4.
 

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Does a 98 Corolla have a transmission controller or a body control module??
Can't say I know about the Corolla, but for the Camrys and Avalons in this vintage, the ECU also controls the transmission. Other, separate modules include:


  • Cruise control
  • Radiator fan control
  • ABS
  • Integration relay (controls auto-headlights, courtesy lights, key buzzer, door-open light/chime, etc.)
On some later years (2000-ish), the security system functions (smart keys) are integrated into the ECU.

Again, all that is speaking about Camrys and Avalons, so the Corolla may be different.
 

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You can still use it for your application. Remove transmission, but keep solenoids and leave them hooked up to harness so ECU thinks transmission is still connected. Also take neutral-start switch, or hot-wire it to be in neutral fulltime

Tank-sender and pump can be transferred to any size drum you want to use for fuel.

Exhaust should retain both O2-sensors, put spark-plug extender on 2nd one so it reads differently than first and you shouldn't have any problem with codes for failed catalytic. Won't affect engine-operation in any way.

Other than that, all other engine-sensors and harness can go along with it as complete package. Install aftermarket tach to see engine-speed, or just carry over entire instrument cluster. Add handgrip or boat-style lever to control throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Great idea about pulling the solenoids from the trans to leave them connected... does the trans utilise input vs output shaft speed sensors that may cause problems?

With regards to O2 sensors.... can the downstream sensor be left in open air (protected from rain and dust) and function that way?
 

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Also known as anti-fouling adapters: https://www.ebay.com/i/171876607205

What it does is space 2nd O2-sensor further away from exhaust-stream so it has different reading than 1st one. But yeah, your idea of leaving it out of exhaust altogether should work as well. The ECU just compares signal from 1st & 2nd and if they are too similar, it thinks catalytic is failing.

Only output from trans is VSS pulses that goes to dash to drive speedometer. That can be left disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hmmmm..... I've never seen anything like that spark plug extender...... that's wackey! Thanks for the info
 
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