The other option is to source the small port 4age and trans out of the mk1 mr2. It's not a 20v, just got to find a donor.
4A-GE/7A-FE swap research for Blacktop/Silvertop (BT/ST)
Hey all, ive been lurking around here for the past few months and finally made a profile for myself to see if i could find some more answers to what im looking for. I have just came into possession as of recent of a mint AE102 94 Toyota corolla DX with the 1.8L 7A-FE engine (NO EGR) and 4spd trans with roughly 52000 miles on the odometer (i say roughly cause i dont know exactly off the top my head and it is legit, checked on TIS aka Toyota dealer stuff and this person who owned it drove it like 1000 miles every 3 years Jesus). Being from the rustbelt area i had another one the exact same except a 95 and it was just withering away with rust at 204k (now sold). Anyway with this ”new” corolla i wanted to plan out a 4A-GE swap. This will be my first ever full engine swap and i need all the research i can get, hence why i created this account. for starters i know the ST and BT will bolt into the same mounts n whatnot i get that, plus if i can get an automatic trans from a ST or BT combined with the engine itll be great because i do not want to go through the hassle of converting it to manual. For now im just trying to make this swap go as smooth as possible so what im looking for is a BT or ST with an automatic trans to bolt up easily. Next with wiring i hear you have to combine both the 7A harness with whatever GE harness you get because as long as you have the ecu for the GE it plugs the same, but i have two problems, one i have cruise control with this 94 (which has a separate ecu but it goes through my 7a harness under the intake) and two, would i have to tear apart my 7A fusebox to have the same connections as a BT/ST? Or will i have to just like cut open both harness looms to see what goes where and tuck my cruise control stuff into the GE loom? I know theres a few other things that go through the same hole in the firewall where the ecu sits for the body so thats what im trying to ask i guess is do i have to open both looms up to swap body harnesses inside? Three for the power steering pump i know i got to fabricate some separate reservoir and figure out what fittings go where. I have read this forum for info but he did like a fitting delete due to converting to manual AE101/102 20V Blacktop swap info so not sure what they meant by that.. fourth is a/c, im planning on using the jdm compressor but ill need to find lines thatll fit on it and route up easily to the solid line on the front right high and low side lines that run into the firewall. Now fifth i need to actually find a decent engine with trans. I found these on ebay but looking at the photos both of these had their harnesses cut at different points for idk what and idk why so i keep those tabs open but im on the fence about them, plus the price seems excessive for an engine that almost everyone wants a manual in.. JDM Toyota Corolla Levin 1.6L Engine & Auto Transmission Jdm 4A GE 4AGE BLACKTOP | eBay
then i found this front clip in maylasia but idk how importing that works and i dont want to wait like 2 months for it and then have to pay import fees or somethin idk Halfcut toyota lavin ae111 4a black top auto - Car Accessories & Parts for sale in Klang, Selangor - Mudah.my
so thats another issue too— where to buy lol
the reason im planning it this much too is because well im breaking the number one rule of car modding, playing doctor with your daily.. but i think itll look awesome and rip even with an automatic, i even thought about just bolting up my 7A trans but i hear the ratios are different and itll be more wiring work so just trying to keep it as simple as possible. hope i can find some answers!
JDM Toyota Corolla Levin 4AGE Blacktop 20 Valve Engine 5 Speed Transmission for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for JDM Toyota Corolla Levin 4AGE Blacktop 20 Valve Engine 5 Speed Transmission at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
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so thats another issue too— where to buy lol
the reason im planning it this much too is because well im breaking the number one rule of car modding, playing doctor with your daily.. but i think itll look awesome and rip even with an automatic, i even thought about just bolting up my 7A trans but i hear the ratios are different and itll be more wiring work so just trying to keep it as simple as possible. hope i can find some answers!
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That's a lot of text but I'll try to answer some of these questions 
Engines on pallets are cut to shit, not two ways around it, that'll be the most time consuming option at the end because a lot will have to be figured out to make everything work. Your best bet is either a front cut or a donor car, lots of bits in there that'll be useful to you, complete uncut A/C system, complete uncut P/S system, and of course an uncut wiring loom, super important that bit.
About the wiring you keep the whole 20v engine loom, and graft it to the chassis loom in three different locations, the junction box in the engine bay (9-10 wires to reallocate to the AE101 junction box depending on if you keep A/C or not), inside the engine loom you'll have to splice 1 or 2 AE101 connectors directly into the charging circuit of the 20v loom, for your starter and for your headlights (may vary depending on region/version), and finally there's a connector that links the engine loom to the chassis loom inside the cabin, right above the ECU, this one takes care of your circuit opening relay, power input to your coil and injectors, speed and reverse sensors and every signal to and from your gauge cluster. Depending on which 20v you pick, ST or BT this job will be more or less difficult, the ST is from the same generation of Corolla, and thus has more similarities with your car when it comes to wiring, same connectors etc... The BT will need more work, which is why it's important to have a complete uncut engine loom, and even some of the chassis loom if possible, less guessing and more spare connectors you can use. For example for my swap I used the connectors from the AE111 chassis loom to build an wiring adapter between the BT loom and the AE101 chassis loom.
Your question about the P/S idle control valve is valid, everyone tends to get rid of it for manual cars, but afaik it's quite important with an auto and you might have to keep it to make sure your car idles smoothly when your P/S pump is under load. On your car this valve is located on the P/S pump and on a 20V engine it's located on the steering rack, so you'll have to find a way to splice it into your P/S high pressure hose somewhere, your best bet is to ask an hydraulic shop to build a whole assembly for you, using whatever spare parts you have from both the AE101 and the 20 engine and making sure you figure out the length of every hose so it can be installed properly.
You can take a look at my swap thread, I tried to add as many details as possible, and if you have any questions feel free to ask either here or in PM
Engines on pallets are cut to shit, not two ways around it, that'll be the most time consuming option at the end because a lot will have to be figured out to make everything work. Your best bet is either a front cut or a donor car, lots of bits in there that'll be useful to you, complete uncut A/C system, complete uncut P/S system, and of course an uncut wiring loom, super important that bit.
About the wiring you keep the whole 20v engine loom, and graft it to the chassis loom in three different locations, the junction box in the engine bay (9-10 wires to reallocate to the AE101 junction box depending on if you keep A/C or not), inside the engine loom you'll have to splice 1 or 2 AE101 connectors directly into the charging circuit of the 20v loom, for your starter and for your headlights (may vary depending on region/version), and finally there's a connector that links the engine loom to the chassis loom inside the cabin, right above the ECU, this one takes care of your circuit opening relay, power input to your coil and injectors, speed and reverse sensors and every signal to and from your gauge cluster. Depending on which 20v you pick, ST or BT this job will be more or less difficult, the ST is from the same generation of Corolla, and thus has more similarities with your car when it comes to wiring, same connectors etc... The BT will need more work, which is why it's important to have a complete uncut engine loom, and even some of the chassis loom if possible, less guessing and more spare connectors you can use. For example for my swap I used the connectors from the AE111 chassis loom to build an wiring adapter between the BT loom and the AE101 chassis loom.
Your question about the P/S idle control valve is valid, everyone tends to get rid of it for manual cars, but afaik it's quite important with an auto and you might have to keep it to make sure your car idles smoothly when your P/S pump is under load. On your car this valve is located on the P/S pump and on a 20V engine it's located on the steering rack, so you'll have to find a way to splice it into your P/S high pressure hose somewhere, your best bet is to ask an hydraulic shop to build a whole assembly for you, using whatever spare parts you have from both the AE101 and the 20 engine and making sure you figure out the length of every hose so it can be installed properly.
You can take a look at my swap thread, I tried to add as many details as possible, and if you have any questions feel free to ask either here or in PM
Yooo that was very indepth for the wiring which was my main concern, i really thought i could do the splicing and stuff on my own with the two harnesses but jesus thats alot more spaghetti than i thought it would be, plus you said i need to incorperate the valve into the high side ps line or whatever to hook up to my engine. With the harness i might as well send it out with my 7a if i do it, not sure if anyone knows a guy who does custom harnesses. As for the ps ill have to find a local hydraulic shop for my concern. also thank you for letting me know what you thought bout those pallet engines! That was my main concern it wasnt fully there and that confirms my fear, i did find a donor front half in maylasia but i have no idea how to get it here to the usa, plus i was talking to someone else on here that said the 5spd brings out the 7A better than my auto so i was starting to lean to a manual swap if this 4age thing isnt gonna work out, which it kind of isnt with my logistical issues (tiny ass garage which is a shed) and all the amenities im trying to add back with power steering and a/c lol. Thank goodness i made this thread first cause im exploring options right now and just trying to see what would be best in my situationThat's a lot of text but I'll try to answer some of these questions
Engines on pallets are cut to shit, not two ways around it, that'll be the most time consuming option at the end because a lot will have to be figured out to make everything work. Your best bet is either a front cut or a donor car, lots of bits in there that'll be useful to you, complete uncut A/C system, complete uncut P/S system, and of course an uncut wiring loom, super important that bit.
About the wiring you keep the whole 20v engine loom, and graft it to the chassis loom in three different locations, the junction box in the engine bay (9-10 wires to reallocate to the AE101 junction box depending on if you keep A/C or not), inside the engine loom you'll have to splice 1 or 2 AE101 connectors directly into the charging circuit of the 20v loom, for your starter and for your headlights (may vary depending on region/version), and finally there's a connector that links the engine loom to the chassis loom inside the cabin, right above the ECU, this one takes care of your circuit opening relay, power input to your coil and injectors, speed and reverse sensors and every signal to and from your gauge cluster. Depending on which 20v you pick, ST or BT this job will be more or less difficult, the ST is from the same generation of Corolla, and thus has more similarities with your car when it comes to wiring, same connectors etc... The BT will need more work, which is why it's important to have a complete uncut engine loom, and even some of the chassis loom if possible, less guessing and more spare connectors you can use. For example for my swap I used the connectors from the AE111 chassis loom to build an wiring adapter between the BT loom and the AE101 chassis loom.
Your question about the P/S idle control valve is valid, everyone tends to get rid of it for manual cars, but afaik it's quite important with an auto and you might have to keep it to make sure your car idles smoothly when your P/S pump is under load. On your car this valve is located on the P/S pump and on a 20V engine it's located on the steering rack, so you'll have to find a way to splice it into your P/S high pressure hose somewhere, your best bet is to ask an hydraulic shop to build a whole assembly for you, using whatever spare parts you have from both the AE101 and the 20 engine and making sure you figure out the length of every hose so it can be installed properly.
You can take a look at my swap thread, I tried to add as many details as possible, and if you have any questions feel free to ask either here or in PM
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