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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
If you are considering swapping the blacktop in the future I’d go with a c160 so you can already have the gear ratios for that engine that’ll definitely wake up the 7AFE although cruising rpm would be higher
I think my plan will be i start small, a manual swap and keep this forum in my profile for future reference for a BT/ST later, since ill have a manual in it, but again my mai; question with the manual swap then is will i have to change harnesses? So instead of a 7afe auto will i need a 7afe manual?
 

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Unlikely I’m not 100 percent sure but there is no sensor on the manual transmission that gives info to the ecu. Aside from only a speed signal which both auto and manual harnesses have
 

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A list I found of things you need for a manual swap. Well from a 6th gen Corolla forum I doubt it’s too different from 7th gens
Here's my list:

Auto/manual conversion checklist:

Manual tranny
Flywheel and bolts
Clutch kit (and pressure plate bolts)
Driver's side mount for manual
Shifter assembly
Shifter cables
Clutch pedal assembly
Brake pedal (or grind down your stock one)
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch slave cylinder (if not included with tranny)
Clutch lines
 
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In my 1997 Toyota wiring diagram manual I flipped between Engine Control (7A-FE M/T) and (7A-FE A/T) and everything looks identical except the neutral start switch and clutch safety switch.

The manual and auto ECUs may be different if only to save money by not having to put the circuits in for the automatic if not needed.

You also have the shift level lock on the auto that releases when you press the brake pedal.

You might want to pick up a used Toyota repair manual on eBay and a wiring diagram manual. Sometimes you can find a deal on both together. The 94 repair manual was 2 volumes, so keep that in mind if you search eBay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
In my 1997 Toyota wiring diagram manual I flipped between Engine Control (7A-FE M/T) and (7A-FE A/T) and everything looks identical except the neutral start switch and clutch safety switch.

The manual and auto ECUs may be different if only to save money by not having to put the circuits in for the automatic if not needed.

You also have the shift level lock on the auto that releases when you press the brake pedal.

You might want to pick up a used Toyota repair manual on eBay and a wiring diagram manual. Sometimes you can find a deal on both together. The 94 repair manual was 2 volumes, so keep that in mind if you search eBay.
I can get access to the rms and ewds on tis so thats not a problem, what my issue is is like you said the clutch safety switch and the brake cancel switch or whatever for the auto
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
A list I found of things you need for a manual swap. Well from a 6th gen Corolla forum I doubt it’s too different from 7th gens
Here's my list:

Auto/manual conversion checklist:

Manual tranny
Flywheel and bolts
Clutch kit (and pressure plate bolts)
Driver's side mount for manual
Shifter assembly
Shifter cables
Clutch pedal assembly
Brake pedal (or grind down your stock one)
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch slave cylinder (if not included with tranny)
Clutch lines
Alright, but the reason i thought it might need a new harness too is cause then it doesnt have to have a few connections to the trans so id have loose connections just hanging there after (example the PRNDL position sensor) and the switch the the clutch safety cancel or whatever
 

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There is no PRNDL position sensor. That is just a cable going into the auto transmission. The only wires going into the 4-speed auto are the wires for the 3 solenoids. Then there's the neutral start switch which also controls the reverse lights. And the speed sensor which may be the same on manual and auto.
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
There is no PRNDL position sensor. That is just a cable going into the auto transmission. The only wires going into the 4-speed auto are the wires for the 3 solenoids. Then there's the neutral start switch which also controls the reverse lights. And the speed sensor which may be the same on manual and auto.
Ill have to look again, ill post a pic when i can
 

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Manual safety switch isn’t really needed tbh. For some reason the past owner didn’t wire one on so I’ve just gotten in the habit of jerking my shifter before I start every time to make sure I’m in neutral. I have a stock 6 speed ecu which makes me believe that safety switch doesn’t go to the ecu
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Manual safety switch isn’t really needed tbh. For some reason the past owner didn’t wire one on so I’ve just gotten in the habit of jerking my shifter before I start every time to make sure I’m in neutral. I have a stock 6 speed ecu which makes me believe that safety switch doesn’t go to the ecu
Well what that does is essentially just kill the starter by opening the circuit through the safety switch so in reality it would never go to the ecu because its part of the starting system, but i kinda figured i wouldnt need it but it would be nice to have, i just need to know how to get rid of the brake interlock with the shifter, yknow to shift out of oark gotta press the brake
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
There is no PRNDL position sensor. That is just a cable going into the auto transmission. The only wires going into the 4-speed auto are the wires for the 3 solenoids. Then there's the neutral start switch which also controls the reverse lights. And the speed sensor which may be the same on manual and auto.
Ok youre right, i couldnt take a photo but i saw my shift linkage to my trans but no connector nearby for the actual selector or whatever plus i couldnt take a photo due to thw battery being in the way but i see theres no sensor for it, i do have a photo for where the master clutch goes
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Im going to have a look at some ewds for The neutral start switch and to see if my reverse lights are connected to it and if so how to connect em to manual
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Ok so after looking at the ewd, there is a park neutral safety switch that lets you start the car in park or neutral in auto and a clutch switch on the pedal which acts as a killswitch for the starter if not pressed so i do need something to bridge the wires so i can bypass the switch or add it in and see if by chance the body harness has a plug for it tucked away for it. Another thing is i will need a new engine harness from a 94 corolla to use with the manual because it has a backup switch built into the trans and like i said earlier if the back up connecter isnt in the harness just tucked away then ill need a new one, it looks like the back up connecter is under the airbox and ill have to look later due to work but ill be on the lookout for connectors on my original harness and see if i need a new one or stick with it
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
OK SO FINALLY i was able to tear into my corolla abit, i took a couple pictures because one there IS a selector position switch at the bottom for PRNDL which is the big connector (see photo with red circle) and i tried looking for loose connectors for the back up switch and clutch cancel switch but i couldnt find anything, i did fine this, (see pic with green circle) but looking at the ewd and component location its a diode rip because i thought it was like a cover for the clutch switch but its just a diode. I found there was a connector for optional power mirrors taped to my dash light adjustment so i was like ok maybe this is a connector for the clutch but nope. but finally looking at the ewd and such what i will need is the connector for a back up light from the manual trans, take out the PRNDL selector, cut the park wire/neutral wire, splice it together so i can start the car without the clutch and have back up lights when i select reverse considering the switch is whatever it is connected to on the trans, so by making a pigtail of the connector from the back up switch from the trans i can connect that to my cut reverse wires and boom reverse for manual without swapping harnesses AND being able to start the car without pushing and incoorperating the clutch hell yeah B ). The only questions i have though is because i have cruise control it says theres a cruise control clutch switch incorporated as well into the clutch so i dont know if just putting the wires so it stays in park all the time will make the cruise control not work thinking its in park? Can someone elaborate on this because if i do go this route then cruise control will never work and i obviously dont want that.
 

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The red circle is the neutral safety switch and it also controls the reverse lights. It does sense the position of PRNDL, but is only used in the starter circuit and the reverse lights circuit. It has no connection to the engine/trans computer.

The clutch switch for the cruise control is opposite the clutch safety switch. While the safety switch is activated when the clutch is fully pressed, the other switch is unswitched if you just slightly press the clutch. You obviously want the cruise to disengage as soon as the clutch pedal is pressed or else the engine will rev up
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
The red circle is the neutral safety switch and it also controls the reverse lights. It does sense the position of PRNDL, but is only used in the starter circuit and the reverse lights circuit. It has no connection to the engine/trans computer.

The clutch switch for the cruise control is opposite the clutch safety switch. While the safety switch is activated when the clutch is fully pressed, the other switch is unswitched if you just slightly press the clutch. You obviously want the cruise to disengage as soon as the clutch pedal is pressed or else the engine will rev up
Ah ok. But then my plan to bridge said park wires and back up light will work? But then ill need to configure something with the cruise control clutch switch and look at the component location n stuff again soon
 

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Yes. The circuits for neutral start/clutch safety switch and reverse light are the same, just different switches for automatic and manual, so just a matter of splicing wires to the new switches. And you don't really need the clutch safety switch if you are careful to remember to push the clutch or put the manual shifter in N before cranking.
 
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