Toyota Nation Forum banner
1 - 20 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, i'm a newbie when it comes to engine mods. I'm in the process of choosing an engine swap for my ae91. I want a reliable engine with enough power to pass the slow idiots on the highway. The car is intended to be a daily driver not for the track. Which engine do you guys suggest i buy? :confused:
 

·
Registered
see signature
Joined
·
366 Posts
for city, gze since it has low end torque...but i guess for higher rpm highway driving, 20 valve would be the way to go, since it emphasizes peak power...

my bluetop is just fine on the highway...but in slower traffic, i really gotta wind it up, but then again 4age isnt a torquey engine at all...i guess u just gotta know where the powerband of ur engine is...

anybody else?
 

·
Country Hick
2001 Nissan Pulsar
Joined
·
1,339 Posts
^^ I'm with him... If it's power on the street your looking at and dont care about fuel consumption, go with the gze. If hovever, you do care about fuel consumption and would like something for the highway (or even rally), go the n/a 20v.

The reason i say this is because the gze will always chew more juice due to the extra load of the supercharger, although not much from what i hear. The 20v tho, on the highway, drop it back a gear when passing and you instantly hit 'power band' which is about 5000-7000rpm. Considering those things with the C52 can do 140km/h in 3rd, you have 3 gears to choose from on the highway without any problem. They will also give you around 500km per 45L tank on the highway

They are also good for rally purpouses coz when rallying, the whole point is to keep the revs as high as possible for max. power, thus the engine always has VVT activated at least, if not it is in the 'power band' of the engine.

*Podantic mode* Note: 4 strokes dont actually have a 'power band' as such, its just when your horsepower is rising more rapidly than at other times, thus giving the feel of exponential acceleration like in a 2 stroke or a boosted application. */Podantic mode*
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for d info guys. Is the 20v more reliable than the gze under fairly aggresive driving conditions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
heh, i'm also a noob... and a trini ... ie - meaning that i am from trinidad.

i've a 20V blacktop and my friend has a 4AGZE. mines has more power overall, so i beat him in a long run easily. he has more torque, so he should beat me on 1/4mi. But the only time we ran together on 1/4mi his tranny was crapping out on 2nd... so he pulled ahead in 1st and then it was a wash out for him after i hit 2nd... by 3rd he gave up.
 

·
The Return of the Red Coupe
2010 RAV4 V6
Joined
·
19,669 Posts
holy shit.. this topic has been brought up so many times! :lol:

It depends on what you wanna do really..

If you wanna go red light whoring.. the GZE will get the Civics down on their knees faster than Bill Clinton.

If you're doing track and other types of racing other than drag racing, any bluetop, redtop 16V or Silvertop or Blacktop 20V 4AGE's with decent mods will do the job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,036 Posts
god, i got through about 3 pages of bickering and nobodies personal experience that i got fed up with it.....

i HAVE ridden in a 20V..... it was in a 6th gen celica (was having clutch problems, but the clutch felt strong TO ME).... it FELT about the same as my smallport (which is in terrible shape and running on a 4afe ecu) in my ae92.... (happy people? that is all fact based and not biased)..... compared to my gze it's nothing..... another local mr2 dyno'd at 120.9whp and wasn't having VVT or clutch issues...... i'm guessing my mr2 will dyno around 160whp and 150wtq...... before tuning
 

·
The Return of the Red Coupe
2010 RAV4 V6
Joined
·
19,669 Posts
watch out... dude is gonna come out again and start a fight with you. :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,036 Posts
fine, he can do what he wants..... when i rode in the car the clutch felt fine (granted, i wasn't driving.... but it was sure climbing to 8,000 without a loss of acceleration or quick rpm rises then drops like a slipping clutch will cause).... later the guy with the 20V (coomer) said his vvt wasn't working correctly. I will grant him that, however....

as i've said, my smallport is nowhere NEAR top shape.... i burn near a quart every couple weeks (and sometimes the rings stick and i visibly burn a lot of oil), and when i pulled the valve cover there was over 1/2" of built up crusted oil around the oil drainback on the back of the smallports head..... also at the time i still had the adjustable FPR (and broken gauge, so who knows what was right) and the MSD ignition (the blaster 2 just crapped out on me after installing it a week before when i realized the blaster 2 resistances were closer to 4afe spec than the 4age coil was)..... but the 4age coil alone runs the 4ag better than MSD could.....
 

·
Immortal
Joined
·
332 Posts
Heh... you just talk too much crap you know, Thomas. Curious why you won't do it somewhere Coomer can see. He's a great guy and it's a shame he had such issues with his car... but then you come along and just dis like you're some sort of badass. It's really disappointing that people are closed minded enough to preach a biased opinion.

Between the 20V and 4AGZE, pick what you want. You want high torque and a stronger mid-range, pick the 4AZGE. If you want top-end and engine response, pick 20V.
 

·
In Ur MOM's Pants
Joined
·
2,883 Posts
you wont to go straight and fast = 4AGZE
if you are a really fat guy and need power to move your car = 4AGZE

if you want to have fun running through the gears, hear that bitch scream and go decent speeds that wont get you into a shit load of trouble = 20V

if you want to track the car curcuit, rally, etc. = 20V


better yet
get another car and buy both motors
20V in one car
4AGZE in the other car

now everyone else FUCK OFF... :smokin: .....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,036 Posts
Kwanza said:
Heh... you just talk too much crap you know, Thomas. Curious why you won't do it somewhere Coomer can see. He's a great guy and it's a shame he had such issues with his car... but then you come along and just dis like you're some sort of badass. It's really disappointing that people are closed minded enough to preach a biased opinion.

Between the 20V and 4AGZE, pick what you want. You want high torque and a stronger mid-range, pick the 4AZGE. If you want top-end and engine response, pick 20V.
i know he is.... i've met him in person and helped him out with his car with the 20V in it. He can easily stroll over here to TN.... i'm not talking shit about him whatsoever. I am just saying that when i rode in his car i didn't feel anything wrong with the clutch. I am also saying when he was in front of me full throttle on the freeway he wasn't pulling on me whatsoever. That has nothing to do with christians character. :disappoin

and when talking between the smallport and the ST 20V i've never said the 20V is a bad motor. the 20V is an overall better motor. But being in the US with lack of parts availability, and (at least around here) the 20V being more expensive, the ever so slight gain isn't worth it over the smallport.

i drive both an smallport 4agze car and a smallport 4age car everyday (i try my hardest to get both cars out everyday), and i can tell you that the 4agze is a much stronger engine, harder acceleration, and as i learn to drive the mr2 it's great in the corners as well... the power is there when i want it. Throttle response is better, the 4agze revs up just about as quickly as my smallport with a 200mm clutch/flywheel, and it has torque. I get into the corolla (4age) and it lacks now. I will be getting the smallport closer to 20V specs with a bit of a rebuild, shaved head, larger cams, and ITB's and i'll see how i feel then.
 
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Top