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Glad to hear the box got to you intact. I did my best to label everything and put the instructions in my 5spd swap thread for anyone undertaking the job, but feel free to ask any questions.
 

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I think that a 3S would probably be a better motor for the long term, as a 3s-gte from a caldina is making about 250-260 hp i believe, and the 1mz-fe with a supercharger has about 240. The 3s would be a lot harder, but definitely cooler and more buildable in the long run. But I hope the swap all goes well and I'm curious to see how much it will all cost when its all said and done!
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Been about 1.5 months since we last heard from OP... curious- how did the project go??

I'm talking to the tech on FB at least once or twice a week. It's a slow going process. He works a different job on the weekdays during the winter months, so the shop is his weekend job now. And my car is one of the last projects he's working on.


Some last shots of the car in stock condition at the shop location. (These pics were taken the week before the first permanent snowfall!)








Oh and a closer pic I got of the transmission last weekend I was there.

It's totally not as bad as I originally thought.


I told them I didn't mind it taking longer than originally planned. I don't need the car back until summer anyways, and I'd rather have them do it right, rather than doing it quickly rushed and issues popping up later.


It's the first time they've swapped a 3SGTE into a Camry so it was never gonna be a plug-n-play swap like a RB26 into a 240 lol:rofl:
 

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Good deal man, thanks for the update. As you can probably tell 6 months ago nobody thought you'd actually go through with this. I am excited to watch your progress though!
 

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So, what's new? :)

I told them I didn't mind it taking longer than originally planned. I don't need the car back until summer anyways, and I'd rather have them do it right, rather than doing it quickly rushed and issues popping up later.
Yea, you should NEVER say something like that to a busy mechanic - your project will keep getting pushed off, lol. I get that you don't want to rush them, but you'd rather have them start and finish the job. Every time you come back to a project you haven't worked on in a month or two, you realize just how much you've forgotten and it just takes you longer to get back in the groove. You have to find the right balance.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
So, what's new? :)

Not much at this point. The car was put into storage over the winter, and the shop has just started to get going again. It's definitely in the cue now though, as they've started work on the engine. I'm still talking to the tech on a regular basis on FB :)


Will post pics for sure as soon as there's any progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Been another little while since I've updated this thread.


I should have expected this, but turns out I have to get different front wheel hubs, since they are different for the E153 driveshafts. (The cogwheel diameter is larger than the I4 ones).


I ordered a brand named "SKF". Anyone ever heard of that brand?


I also got the front calipers and discs / pads today

 

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Been another little while since I've updated this thread.


I should have expected this, but turns out I have to get different front wheel hubs, since they are different for the E153 driveshafts. (The cogwheel diameter is larger than the I4 ones).


I ordered a brand named "SKF". Anyone ever heard of that brand?


I also got the front calipers and discs / pads today

You should have at least gotten the dual piston calipers since you were buying new ones anyway!
Better yet, 330mm dual piston Highlander brake setup - bolts right on vs the 275mm V6 Camry setup. I have mine laying around (never got to installing it, car is gone now).
 

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What year and trim level highlander? Could i use the calipers on the rear later?
I think around 2011-2013 Highlander/RX350 and I think even Sienna. Mine are from 2013 if I remember correctly. Not sure about the rears, I'm not aware of anybody has tried them. Also, you have the parking brake in the rear that the size has to match up, so it may not be a straight-forward swap, may need backing plates.
 

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Thread here about fitting the Highlander brakes. IIRC, 17” wheels are required.
 

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Talk about deja vu... this is the invert of back when the MR2 community was trying to get the V6 in to the back of the MR2. Same arguments and sub-threads, too.

Seem to remember running in to that, with trans vs. front/mid install/configure. Someone figured out you just had to remove the shift-arms, machine a new mounting hole, then install backwards (believe that was for the V6/manual). Will see if I can dig up the info.

Also remember running in to that with the half-shafts vs. hub-splines. E/S-series trans have been around for decades, it was just a matter of finding the right combination of shafts, hubs, splines, mounts, etc.

When it comes to using NA engines, iirc, the 3S-GE was only delivered to the CA-market, the 5S-FE was for US-market. There were a few people who blew up their US/5S-FE, and found a CA/3S-GE. Nothing beats a G-head, revved much nicer... face it, the 5S is a Camry motor.

Our '00 has 304k miles, when the long-block goes, was going to put in a 3S-GTE, yet we have one advantage... the car is already a 5-speed (mainly for reliability), so all the structure is in place. Just waiting for the long-block to wear out (either valve seals, or oil-rings), yet that might not be for 100k miles (at least). Our 2wd RAV4 3S-FE has a blown motor, yet we'll probably put in a used motor, just to get it back on the road... there's long-term goals of converting to awd and 3S-GTE, initiate mocking now.

For background, we've done auto->manual conversions, C->E trans conversions on A-engines, and were the first documented 4A-GZE swap in to an MR2 Mk I NA body... even started playing around with doing a 4A-GZE front-engine rear-drive, and found the bellhousing to connect a S-engine to a W-trans for a front-engine rear-drive conversion, just never got around to it. Now we're putting in to queue a 1UZ in to a Gen5 Pickup. So we're reasonably confident we'll know when to continue or give up.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Thread here about fitting the Highlander brakes. IIRC, 17” wheels are required.

I think that is why I'm going with the Camry V6 brakes. I can still rock the sleeper look with 15" steel wheels :D . I have 16" rims on it currently, so the Highlander brakes are out for now.
 

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If you've got 16" rims, you can go with the Lexus LS400 brake setup. A bit bigger than the Camry/Avalon dual pistons. You just need to install them on opposite sides to have the bleeder valves on the correct, upper side. This is because they're mounted on the LS400 differently.

Buried somewhere in those brake upgrade threads is an analysis I did regarding total piston area:

My '92 V6 Camry's stock front caliper has single 2.25" bore = 3.976 in²
94 front caliper has dual 1.68" bore = 4.433 in², 11% increase
91-92 Lexus LS400 caliper has dual 1.75" bore = 4.81 in² 21% increase
2001 Highlander single bore = 2.5" = 4.91 in² - 23% increase
2009 - 2010 Highlander V6 calipers with rotors

What I'm ignoring there is the brake pad swept area, an important parameter for fade resistance. More pad area = better heat dissipation.
 

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Discussion Starter #99 (Edited)
UPDATE:


Found a donor vehicle for the brakes upgrade.





It has all I need for the disc brake upgrade. Although I had already bought front calipers and rotors, I still needed all 4 backing plates, the rear calipers, brake master cylinder, and proportioning valve.All of that was still in this car!


In addition, the wiring harness for the trunk lights was in excellent condition, and this thing had a JBL sound system and rear speakers still attached.


Plus I got the ECU from the 1MZ as well!


I got this car for $300 CAD (220 USD).



Tow was $120 CAD (90 USD).


So $310 USD for 4 backing plates , rear calipers, and a host of other hard to find individual bits and pieces.
 

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UPDATE:


Found a donor vehicle for the brakes upgrade.

It has all I need for the disc brake upgrade. Although I had already bought front calipers and rotors, I still needed all 4 backing plates, the rear calipers, brake master cylinder, and proportioning valve.All of that was still in this car!

In addition, the wiring harness for the trunk lights was in excellent condition, and this thing had a JBL sound system and rear speakers still attached.

Plus I got the ECU from the 1MZ as well!

I got this car for $300 CAD (220 USD).

Tow was $120 CAD (90 USD).

So $310 USD for 4 backing plates , rear calipers, and a host of other hard to find individual bits and pieces.

AFAIK the master cylinder is the same, at least for my 97' Camry. You only need to change the proportioning valve. Saves you a bunch of work. For fronts you do not have to change the backing plates unless you really want to. I just pushed them inwards bending them slightly so they do not touch the disks. I have a few years running like that and no problems even with chains, etc. Again less work.


Congrats on a good deal. I paid USD 350 only for the rear stuff (the whole hub assembly with carrier, hubs, parking brakes, cables, disks, and calipers).


You may want to look at the brake lights harness/sockets as mine were cooked.
 
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