[Coalescence]

Hey all, I have a 1986 Cressida with the 5mge. I trailered it home when I got it because "the engine was shot". Charged the battery, started it up, the engine started with little/no hesitation.
But there's a very distinct knock/tapping, I listened with a stethoscope to the oil pan and lower block and the sound was mild. The further upward toward the valvetrain I moved, the more distinct the sound became. The sound is strongest at the intake camshaft near the 3rd cylinder. It is one single consistent tapping.
I'm working on pulling at least the head right now. But I'm just wondering if there's a common culprit to this issue? What are some things I can expect when I get the camshaft housing off?

 

[kamesama980]

just take the cam towers off and replace the lifters with good quality ones. don't buy junk ebay ones even new ones. used toyota ones are better than new china ones. a buddy of mine tried it and the engine barely ran and sounded like a tractor because all the china lifters were made wrong (he took them apart to figure this out) there was a lot of punching flash around the pressure relief hole preventing the check ball from seating, in essence, the lifters were never pressurizing. he dremeled them down pretty nicely and they worked for a while but within 200 miles they were making noise again. then he swapped in his old 200k miles lifters and it was all good.

 

[Coalescence]

Yeah trust me I know the significance of Japanese quality in a Toyota.
When you say lifters, are you talking about what the FSM refers to as "Lash Adjusters"?
I've almost got the head off, I'll probably post up with what I find.

 

[zythr]

I believe he is. The lifters help maintain the valve clearances so they don't have to be adjusted. The previous owner probably did not have the oil changed regularly.

 

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

lifters and cam tower reseals were very common in the 5mge and 7mge. It doesn't surprise me at all. I don't think I've seen one yet that didn't or wouldn't need it done at some point in its lifetime.

 

[Coalescence]

What should I look for as far as a lifter being bad? Do people more commonly repair or replace these? And on that note.. Who is a good vendor for parts, gaskets, kits, on the 5mge?
Thanks for the input everyone!

 

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

Not sure on the how to tell if they are bad, I just know that we used to replace them quite a bit in Cressida's and Supra's.

I believe I would be a great source if you go OEM. I offer TN members 30% off MSRP and I only charge actual shipping costs plus $1.00 - $2.00 for shipping materials, etc.

So if you go OEM, let me know and I can work you up a quote. Also,I am not just in here for a parts sale, if you have any questions at all, even if they are not parts related, I'll do my best to answer them. If I don't know, I'll tell you, and then do my best to find the answer. I am in here just about every day, so don't hesitate to get a hold of me.

Good luck

 

[zythr]

What should I look for as far as a lifter being bad? Do people more commonly repair or replace these? And on that note.. Who is a good vendor for parts, gaskets, kits, on the 5mge?
Thanks for the input everyone!

They usually replace them. I have not heard of them being repaired. It is important to have the oil changed frequently for longevity. Reason being, the passage in the lifter that allows oil to flow in is so tiny that it is easy for it to get plugged up, thus causing problems.

 

[kamesama980]

Yes, lifter lash adjuster, same thing different name.

The lash adjuster itself usually isn't bad, just plugged up with oil gunk. as mentioned, some people have had luck cleaning them out by substituting 1 qt of ATF in the oil. how to test: with the lash adjusters still in the head (just pull the cam towers) try to push down on them. if they push down, they're bad. if they move less than a mm and don't slowly go down, they should be fine.

 

[destroyer_jp]

Not sure on the how to tell if they are bad, I just know that we used to replace them quite a bit in Cressida's and Supra's.

I believe I would be a great source if you go OEM. I offer TN members 30% off MSRP and I only charge actual shipping costs plus $1.00 - $2.00 for shipping materials, etc.

So if you go OEM, let me know and I can work you up a quote. Also,I am not just in here for a parts sale, if you have any questions at all, even if they are not parts related, I'll do my best to answer them. If I don't know, I'll tell you, and then do my best to find the answer. I am in here just about every day, so don't hesitate to get a hold of me.

Good luck

Hey Buddy,

Do you think you can hook me up with the hydraulic lash adjuster for the
1G-EU 2.0 I6 Toyota Cressida?

If yes how much will they cot plus shipping to Malaysia?
Let me know bro.

 

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

I don't have access to any out of the country vehicle information. the 1G-EU is not something I am familar with and I don't access to the parts schematic. Secondly, At this time, we only ship inside the U.S. and Canada.

I wish you luck and success in your quest.

Hey Buddy,

Do you think you can hook me up with the hydraulic lash adjuster for the
1G-EU 2.0 I6 Toyota Cressida?

If yes how much will they cot plus shipping to Malaysia?
Let me know bro.

 

[Kingdom934]

Hey all, I have a 1986 Cressida with the 5mge. I trailered it home when I got it because "the engine was shot". Charged the battery, started it up, the engine started with little/no hesitation.
But there's a very distinct knock/tapping, I listened with a stethoscope to the oil pan and lower block and the sound was mild. The further upward toward the valvetrain I moved, the more distinct the sound became. The sound is strongest at the intake camshaft near the 3rd cylinder. It is one single consistent tapping.
I'm working on pulling at least the head right now. But I'm just wondering if there's a common culprit to this issue? What are some things I can expect when I get the camshaft housing off?

Does it sound something like this?





I looked at my service manual. they got it so that way you need to remove the top half of the engine (basically the top that end from the headgasket)...i'm assuming that is if you want to do a full overhaul on the top end. I assume we can leave the cylinder head in the engine, but just remove the pullys for the timing belt. Since we're not touching the camshalf, don't really need to do the front seals on the camshalf or should we since it is out? Of course, we'll have to replace the camshalf housing gasket and the valve cover/head cover gasket.



I gotta get this done...mines sounds...broken hahaa

 

[kamesama980]

I don't know if I've said it before but if you get lifters, get genuine toyota ones, even used. a friend of mine got a set from ebay and every one was machined wrong. there's a check valve inside that had almost 1/8" of flashing from when it was punched where the check ball is supposed to seat. they worked worse than his factory 200k mile lifters after he took them apart and dremeled them down. They didn't work at all before he worked on them.

You do not need to pull the head to get the cam housings off and do lifters. just pull the intake tubes, throttle linkage, throttle body, and IACV. so you can get the intake cam housing off without interference (there are loooong studs too)

Once you do that be warned, the rocker arms are free to fall down into the depths of the engine bay and, if you're lucky, out the bottom too. The manual says keep them in order. I don't think this is because they're each different enough to matter but because you want to keep cam lobes with the matching rockers due to minute differences in the wear pattern. One of those things that isn't hugely important unless one is really bad but makes the difference between a 150k mile engine and a 300k miles engine.

While it's apart I would strongly suggest doing the cam seals as well as the O-rings in back. both are common leaks and a pain to do down the line. I would also suggest doing the valve stem seals. at the point you'll be at, it won't be much more work. Won't need to pull the head or anything and it'll cut oil usage.

 

[Kingdom934]

Thanks,

Yea. I think my valve stem seals are done too. Oil covered on the spark plug tips (all 6 of em). Blow a bit of white smoke usually after startup and when engine is running for a while...I also think my therostat is stuck opne (long time to get normal temps). I just gotta get my courage (and money) to get this done...haha. My cressida leaks oil a fair amount only when it is running...

I'll start getting parts for my cressida...gotta try find someone that is gonna sell OEM used lifters. Gotta try check the junkers...there was an old school supra 5M a while go, but that is long gone now.

 

[kamesama980]

The other thing that occurred to me just now is the old-school fix of adding a quart of ATF to the oil at your next oil change. ATF has a HUGE amount of detergents and stuff. Anything will do, Dexron III or any dexron is what people usually use I think. sometimes that'll clean out the oil passages and free up the lifters.

 

[Kingdom934]

The other thing that occurred to me just now is the old-school fix of adding a quart of ATF to the oil at your next oil change. ATF has a HUGE amount of detergents and stuff. Anything will do, Dexron III or any dexron is what people usually use I think. sometimes that'll clean out the oil passages and free up the lifters.

Thanks. I'll give it a shot. As for running it in the oil, should I run it for a typical 3,000 miles or a shorter running distant with that the 1atf/4oil quart?

 

[kamesama980]

Honestly, they never said. I'd prolly change it in 500 miles or less, especially if it does free up the lifters. (actually, if it does free them up, change it soon after) reason being it'll clean up all the sludge and crap which will settle in the pan to be sucked up again and fill the filter.

BTW this could also increase oil consumption as the deposits and sludge might be holding the oil in at some of the seals. one time a shop did me a 'favor' by doing one of those engine flushes....oil consumption went from 1qt/600 miles to 1qt/10 miles. Almost entirely through the valve stem seals too.

 

[Kingdom934]

Sounds good. Either way, I burn (I believe) and leak oil when running...almost none when not running (leaking of course, lol). I know valve stems are shot because I have oil coated spark plugs...although I puff a little smoke (looks white~ish), but have not noticed any milk shake under the cap. Assuming it's just oil burning or burning off water....

 

[kamesama980]

^stem seals.

If the smoke were coolant it'd be proportional to throttle and one or two cylinders would be steam-cleaned.

 

[zythr]

Sounds good. Either way, I burn (I believe) and leak oil when running...almost none when not running (leaking of course, lol). I know valve stems are shot because I have oil coated spark plugs...although I puff a little smoke (looks white~ish), but have not noticed any milk shake under the cap. Assuming it's just oil burning or burning off water....

Did you get this fixed, or sell the car?