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short-throw dipstick
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, so I've been suspecting since I dropped this engine into beatercam that it runs a bit hot. Trying to get some idea of what regular operating temps should be.

I had my scanner plugged in all day today, graphing coolant temp. 70-72 deg F ambient when I was monitoring, here's what I found out:

  • driving 80 MPH on the highway, coolant temp was at 205 deg F (me operating the throttle), 203 deg F (cruise control), and 205-207 deg F (cruise control, A/C on)
  • waiting at a stoplight (no A/C), it would creep up to 230 deg F, then the fans would come on and bring it down to 210
  • of course cooling is related to engine speed - when I put my foot through the firewall on the highway, temps would rapidly (over 3 or 4 seconds) drop from 203 to 188. Getting back to cruising in 4th let it creep back up to 203
You guys with 5S-FE and live data capability, would like some data on running temps. I'm trying to decide if I should run a flush to deal with any deposits that may be around because the previous owners were running straight tap water. Thanks as usual.
 

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Never delved that deep into measuring temps with scan tool, but I do recall that my instrument cluster temp gauge NEVER went more than a hair past the middle regardless of conditions. Running straight water is... let's just say not smart (unless you're running a racecar where straight water is required by regulations to avoid slippery conditions resulting from your cooling system puking it's guts out). Either your thermostat is hosed (i'd check that first), or you really do need to flush the system. Keep in mind, though, that chances are good you will need a new radiator if you flush things and see little improvement - the radiator has the smallesst passages in the whole cooling system and acts as a filter.
 

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short-throw dipstick
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6,105 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, especially San Jose water which is hard as all hell. I tested the thermostat, it was the first thing I replaced (both OE).

I still have the radiator from the donor car, so I'll swap that no-name PoS in to do the flush to save my Denso.
 

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2001 Camry LE
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582 Posts
I've never measured the operating temperatures either, but I don't recall the temperature gauge ever reading more than half. The only time it was consistently below half was when I had a stuck-open thermostat. I wouldn't be surprised if the radiator needed to be replaced though, both of my radiators developed a crack along the top tank.
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah the middle position on the gauge corresponds to a range to temps so as not to scare the average driver. Mine goes past that when idling on a hot day with loads (power steering, mainly...let's say I'm in a drive-thru) and the fans kick in.

Since I'm 200mi away from changing my coolant I'll swap the radiators, run a couple jugs of heavy-duty flush with distilled water and then flush it out with distilled water
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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935 Posts
I'll try to get the OBDII scanner adapter / laptop hooked up to the '00 Camry tomorrow and take some readings, will report them back ISB.
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If you are confident of water pump, condition of radiator hoses, the other primary coolant hoses, etc.. - might want to check the ( overflow coolant hose ) running from the radiator -> to the overflow tank: on '00 Camry here, that hose was secured by a metal clip (about mid-length) attached to the engine bay: the rubber hose (within) that clip had deteriorated, due to the clip rusting. ... It was drawing air back into the system on engine cool down. A new length of hose and some plastic zip ties to secure fixed it up. Anyways, might be worth a look.
 

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short-throw dipstick
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6,105 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Checked all those, perfect (almost all components less than a year old as well). I think I'll use the Zerex heavy-duty flush ("Super Cleaner") and see what comes out. When I finished the swap this issue got me chasing a couple red herrings (well, just one). Replaced the OE tstat with a warranty one, didn't change...but discovered that I installed the upper radiator hose upside down so it wasn't burping properly. The car never overheats, running temps just stay high. Appreciate if you could punt out your data, thanks.

I'll try to get the OBDII scanner adapter / laptop hooked up to the '00 Camry tomorrow and take some readings, will report them back ISB.
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If you are confident of water pump, condition of radiator hoses, the other primary coolant hoses, etc.. - might want to check the ( overflow coolant hose ) running from the radiator -> to the overflow tank: on '00 Camry here, that hose was secured by a metal clip (about mid-length) attached to the engine bay: the rubber hose (within) that clip had deteriorated, due to the clip rusting. ... It was drawing air back into the system on engine cool down. A new length of hose and some plastic zip ties to secure fixed it up. Anyways, might be worth a look.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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935 Posts
Greetings ISB,

PDF of data is attached.

Overview: 2000 Camry 4 cyl, auto trans., 289,800 miles,
original ECT / Gauge Temp / Cooling Fan switch,
Full Coolant system flush / fill @ approx. 258,000 miles during TB service,
Full trans fluid flush / replacement @ 215,000 (Jan. 2015) when received,
(1) trans. fluid "drain & fill" @ 258,000 (after TB service).

Nothing remarkable to report:

Techstream active data PIDs on screen (like 50 of them), ECT sensor is 'biased' at a low priority / refresh rate: 3-5 seconds average update rate.

Duplicating your driving conditions was not possible: roads here are 55 MPH max., a mix of "highway" driving, and small town reduced speeds. Traffic and police presence on the road keeps the speeds (at or close) to posted during the trip.

Edit: ambient outside air temp. was 60 F during trip, +/- a degree or two either side.

Observed ECT temp on the laptop while recording data: temps reduced to 190-195 range at highway speed, even with downshift / higher RPMs: due to increased airflow through radiator. Overall range was 190 - 205 while moving. .. At least I know the thermostat is working. :)

"Average" temp. for this Camry while operating is 203 F, cooling fans kick on at approx. 216 - 218 F. Temp gauge in instrument cluster doesn't budge between "average" temp, and when the cooling fans kick on.

Temp gauge in instrument cluster is pretty well 'locked in' at (1) needle below halfway mark: only time I've seen it move higher ( to 1/2 ) is on hot summer days (90+), when sitting in drive-through, waiting for lunch.

Feel free to reach out if there is any more info, etc. I can provide.

Regards, Rob
 

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short-throw dipstick
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6,105 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks much! Really appreciate it.

Yeah iI'm thinking I have a restriction or two or three. I'm going to run the flush as soon as I get a chance and see what happens.

Greetings ISB,
 

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Yeah the middle position on the gauge corresponds to a range to temps so as not to scare the average driver. Mine goes past that when idling on a hot day with loads (power steering, mainly...let's say I'm in a drive-thru) and the fans kick in.

Since I'm 200mi away from changing my coolant I'll swap the radiators, run a couple jugs of heavy-duty flush with distilled water and then flush it out with distilled water
For what it's worth my 5sfe solara heats up at drive-thru's as well. Fans kick on for 10 seconds and temps are normal. No issues while driving though.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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935 Posts
^^ Just wondering out loud if replacing the radiator fan temp. switch in the Denso radiator, after doing the radiator swap & flush, would be a good idea also. All other temps. seem normal: except for the high temps you observe .. b4 the rad. fan temp. switch -> kicks the cooling fans on.
 

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short-throw dipstick
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6,105 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
See, after the swap was complete (when I had the upper hose upside down) I beelined to the fan switch, which I replaced twice. Admittedly with aftermarket...maybe I'll try an OE.

^^ Just wondering out loud if replacing the radiator fan temp. switch in the Denso radiator, after doing the radiator swap & flush, would be a good idea also. All other temps. seem normal: except for the high temps you observe .. b4 the rad. fan temp. switch -> kicks the cooling fans on.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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935 Posts
Maybe after the flush / depending on how much ' stuff ' comes out, it may be worth considering an OE replacement, if you think it make a difference.

I know you are in the trade: so this is like the 'young Grasshopper' trying to instruct the 'Kung-Fu Master' :) ..

I can offer that on a previous vehicle rehab here: also ran with mineral-laden tap water for a long period of time (over a year), the 'mess' that came out of the flush was considerable. Ended up doing a 2nd (50%) flush, and using lots o' Gallons of Distilled Water. ... Hoping the flush procedure fixes it up for you.
 
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