[CRYSTAL ALiENS]

So after Installing my reman head with a new head gasket I placed everything back hopefully in its original position.

• Camshafts are all aligned
• piston #1 was at the Top dead center
• oiled cams
• timing belt has tension and in position

I turn on car, works miraculously, ran a clean idle then shuts off by a spark at the alternator which was caused by a loose ground connection. Car never starts ignition ever again.


• I replaced battery terminals since cranking it made the hot line made it very hot, possible high current passing.
• Battery tested works fine
• Alternator fuse is not blown
• Alternators, tested 2 different ones and they both work fine
• Cleaned the spark plugs, had a bit of carbon on them.
• distributor is aligned to the camshaft
• injectors are in position, though one of the tips is leaking
• it's not the fuel pump as I hear it whirring
• it's not the starter because it cranks
• car has ½ tank of gas
• battery has been fully recharged
• I did break camshaft and distributor sensors, misaligned vacuum lines with the EGR and Vacccum Solenoid but I later fixed using the diagram in the hood


My car still does NOT start! what did I do wrong?

 

[dc_98_cam]

I think there are one or two ground wires going from the engine to different chassis points ... not sure how many. Any kind of grease, oil, etc would cause an electrical problem like no spark. So check ground wires. Must be clean and tight at fastening points. A spray can of electrical contact cleaner helps to get rid of any grease or dirt.

 

[CamryFL]

So after Installing my reman head with a new head gasket I placed everything back hopefully in its original position.

• Camshafts are all aligned
• piston #1 was at the Top dead center
• oiled cams
• timing belt has tension and in position

I turn on car, works miraculously, ran a clean idle then shuts off by a spark at the alternator which was caused by a loose ground connection. Car never starts ignition ever again.


• I replaced battery terminals since cranking it made the hot line made it very hot, possible high current passing.
• Battery tested works fine
• Alternator fuse is not blown
• Alternators, tested 2 different ones and they both work fine
• Cleaned the spark plugs, had a bit of carbon on them.
• distributor is aligned to the camshaft
• injectors are in position, though one of the tips is leaking
• it's not the fuel pump as I hear it whirring
• it's not the starter because it cranks
• car has ½ tank of gas
• battery has been fully recharged
• I did break camshaft and distributor sensors, misaligned vacuum lines with the EGR and Vacccum Solenoid but I later fixed using the diagram in the hood


My car still does NOT start! what did I do wrong?

If you are confident basic mechanical timing is ok, all motors need ample fuel, spark, and air to run -

Using a volt / ohm meter, check all fuses for voltage on the output side of the fuse, if the meter has (continuity test) function, verify all fuses show continuity ..

Suggest verifying spark using an inductive clamp timing light or spark tester while cranking,

Suggest verifying fuel injector pulse using a NOID light tester on all injectors ..

If NOID light shows all injectors are firing, suggest verifying proper fuel pressure, using a fuel pressure tester if at all suspect ..

* I would be concentrating on verifying (Ignition) and (Fuel Injection) fuses, and verifying visible spark first w/ a spark test light, if I heard the fuel pump operating here. Then checking for injector firing using the NOID test light on all injectors.

 

[White95Cam]

CRYSTAL ALiENS, I have never heard of the battery cables getting hot from just cranking an engine unless you did it for a very very long time. Have you jumped the port and looked for codes? I wonder if the "spark" took out your ECM?
W95c

 

[Stillrunning]

A hot battery cable is very high resistance in the cable. Either bad connections or bad cable, or high draw from starter. Look there first.

 

[CRYSTAL ALiENS]

Now that I remember some of the ground wires were greasy, loose, and bolted to the aluminum intake.

I gave these little importance, can someone explain why this matters in ignition? Not to electrical savvy here...

 

[CRYSTAL ALiENS]

Well I grounded all wires to the chassis now I hear some popping of the exhaust when cranking. Any ideas?

 

[dc_98_cam]

I know you said it idled for a minute, but how about manually checking for the rotor tip coming up on the #1 plug wire in the distributor, and at the same time the crank timing mark coming up to the zero mark.
... Just to see if things are lined up.

 

[CRYSTAL ALiENS]

OK will give a try tomorrow.

 

[CRYSTAL ALiENS]

OK just lined it up apparently it was missin a bolt so the rotor tip must have been spinning incorrectly.

Just dropped the battery to recharge currently waiting.


So just to make sure here's my current situation"


•camshaft is aligned with crankshaft at TDC
•distributor inner rotor tip is lined up at #1 spark plug

Anything else thats crucial to the timing?


Thanks for all the help guys in advance, I'm learning so much doing this myself without a mechanic!

 

[dc_98_cam]

Also, the number 1 cylinder should be coming up on the compression stroke as the timing mark on the crank approaches the zero degree mark on the engine block. If it doesn't sound like it wants to start when you try it, then remove the #1 spark plug and verify that there is a rush of air ... due to compression. So once you get it running, check the timing again. I think
it's supposed to be 10 degrees with the t1 and e1 pins jumpered.

 

[CRYSTAL ALiENS]

Couldn't I keep rotating the crankshaft pulley to verify compression? I hear it all the time when rotating it, it's a loud hsssssss.

 

[dc_98_cam]

It should already be on the compression stroke ... unless you had to remove the distributor. Try to start it and see how it sounds. If don't hear anything like ignition, then you can worry about it being on the right piston cycle. The easiest way to do that is to remove the #1 plug, bump the starter, put a finger in the plug opening and see if there is a burst of air as the timing mark comes up to 0.

 

[CRYSTAL ALiENS]

OK so the car ignites runs for 3 or 4 seconds and then shuts off. I lubed the cams with oil previously.

I noticed the distributor rotor tip keeps getting misaligned from the TDC of the Camshaft / Crankshaft.

??? I wonder if I put the distributor teeth towards the camshaft the wrong way? Would that matter in this case? I also noticed that you can push in or out the distributor tip, which way is it suppose to be?

 

[CRYSTAL ALiENS]

Also my knock sensor is shattered could this be a factor?

 

[dc_98_cam]

Do you think your timing belt is in good shape? Sometimes they are difficult to get lined up. Have you actually seen the engine running with the belt that is on it now?
... not completely sure about the knock sensor. It affects the timing when it senses cylinder ping or knock, but don't think it would keep you from getting the engine going.

 

[CRYSTAL ALiENS]

OK great news! timing belt was off by a tooth. Now it's nice and tensioned.


Car ignites great but shuts off after a while possibly because the current of the battery is low after starting the car so many times. That leaves just the battery moving the belt and the alternator not kicking in!


So if my calculations are correct, a good charge on the battery and this car should be running!

 

[CRYSTAL ALiENS]

Well it was 90% before leaving it to charge meaning that electricity is not the issue here.

Here some of my symptoms:

•Car starts and ignites but shuts off after 5 seconds when at TDC and distributor rotor tip at #1
•For some reason the distributor tip looses sync
•I also noticed that the exhaust cam is slightly misaligned

Anyone clue to get the car to start?

 

[White95Cam]

Well it was 90% before leaving it to charge meaning that electricity is not the issue here.

Here some of my symptoms:

•Car starts and ignites but shuts off after 5 seconds when at TDC and distributor rotor tip at #1
•For some reason the distributor tip looses sync
•I also noticed that the exhaust cam is slightly misaligned

Anyone clue to get the car to start?

Are you saying that you time the distributor and your car runs for a a few seconds and stops and when you recheck the distributor TDC is off. Are you verifying this by checking the crank timing, cam marks and the position of rotor in relation to the #1 plug wire? Since the dizzy is driven by the intake cam could your cams be out of timing since this is a new head? When you set the engine to TDC / compression stroke is the slit for the dizzy straight up and down?
W95c

 

[dc_98_cam]

^ What he said.