[BishopKrout]

Hello to anyone reading this. So I have some issue with my 2000 camry 2.2l. I have new spark plugs, coils, oil, coolant, IAC valve, EGR valve, cleaned the throttle body and ran a can of sea foam through the car. My first issue is that when the car is hot and idling the oil light comes on, also when the car is hot it has issues starting and sometimes stalls out when I turn on the AC or put it in gear. Also vibrates when idling, the heat doesn’t work and I don’t use the AC because I’m afraid the car will stall in the middle of traffic. The car does have two codes for o2 sensors and that’s it for CELs. Any help is truly appreciated.

 

[sdspeed]

Sounds like it's running to lean, bad data going to the ECM from the A/F O2 sensor.
Is it experiencing any over heating issues?

 

[93celicaconv]

I agree with sdspeed on the issue involving slow idle as far as one possibility. What exactly are the two codes you have involving the oxygen sensors?

As for the oil pressure light coming on, that is potentially concerning. You could do a lot of diagnostics to determine if you really do have low oil pressure or if your oil pressure switch may be off calibration. Or you can perhaps just replace your oil pressure switch and see if that resolves the oil pressure light issue you described. Would highly recommend you get an OEM oil pressure switch in your application. What is your routine for engine & oil filter changes?

If your heater isn't working, are you saying you are not getting any heat, but the controls and the heater blower is working fine? If not getting heat, you should first check if your valve on the hot water inlet to the heater is working properly. If it is, and when the engine is warmed up, are both hoses going to the heater core equally hot? What is your frequency of coolant flushes and replacement? You may have a blocked heater core caused by coolant that wasn't routinely replaced and is causing cooling system corrosion.

 

[CamryFL]

A new oil pressure switch, if any sign of oil is present at the switch or connector, and a new oil filter would be first on the list, if here. .. Probably just the pressure switch, but would change the oil filter also, in case it's "bad out of the box".

Then "work the codes" / address the O2 sensors, so no DTCs are present: which may help improve -> and correct the idle at operating temp. issue.

No cabin heat, sounds like a blocked heater core. (No heater valve on the Gen 4.5 Camry's: coolant is piped directly into the heater core.)

 

[sdspeed]

Depending on the answers to other questions, a heater not working when all else appears to be operating correctly can be an early indicator of a HG leak.

 

[1990Toyota]

First thing Id do is check the oil level / condition then throw a mechanical pressure gauge on it and check the actual oil pressure... if the oil pressure is indeed excessively low then you might as well just stop right there before exploring the other issues.

 

[BishopKrout]

Sounds like it's running to lean, bad data going to the ECM from the A/F O2 sensor. Is it experiencing any over heating issues?

Yes it’s over heating even though it’s got coolant. It just died on me tonight it got too hot at a red light. Both of the codes says p0420.

 

[1990Toyota]

if it killed itself because you let it get too hot, then I Belvie that motor may be EOL soon....

 

[BishopKrout]

if it killed itself because you let it get too hot, then I Belvie that motor may be EOL soon....

It didn’t quite die it just got about 7/8 of the temp gauge and I was able to safely get it to a parking lot close by and shit the car off. But yes the car has over heating issues, never this bad though. When I’m driving it stays cool but idle is when it warms up

 

[BishopKrout]

I agree with sdspeed on the issue involving slow idle as far as one possibility. What exactly are the two codes you have involving the oxygen sensors?

As for the oil pressure light coming on, that is potentially concerning. You could do a lot of diagnostics to determine if you really do have low oil pressure or if your oil pressure switch may be off calibration. Or you can perhaps just replace your oil pressure switch and see if that resolves the oil pressure light issue you described. Would highly recommend you get an OEM oil pressure switch in your application. What is your routine for engine & oil filter changes?

If your heater isn't working, are you saying you are not getting any heat, but the controls and the heater blower is working fine? If not getting heat, you should first check if your valve on the hot water inlet to the heater is working properly. If it is, and when the engine is warmed up, are both hoses going to the heater core equally hot? What is your frequency of coolant flushes and replacement? You may have a blocked heater core caused by coolant that wasn't routinely replaced and is causing cooling system corrosion.

Both codes are p0420. I will look into an oem oil pressure switch. I have only had the care for 3000 miles. I have changed the oil twice. I changed it the 2nd time because I thought thicker oil would help and it does have a new filter as well. The oil is 10w30 I love in Florida and it’s hot every day. I have completely flushed the coolant yet I just topped it off with fresh. The radiator seems pretty newish to me. I planned in flushing it soon. I also ran some radiator patcher through it because I notice a small leak on the top of it. Air comes out when I turn on the heater just not hot air. I have to check about hoses to the core. When that oil pressure light comes on the care wants to stall a lot and has issues starting again. I’m using the car for food delivery so there is a lot of starting the car and stop and go traffic.

 

[BishopKrout]

A new oil pressure switch, if any sign of oil is present at the switch or connector, and a new oil filter would be first on the list, if here. .. Probably just the pressure switch, but would change the oil filter also, in case it's "bad out of the box".

Then "work the codes" / address the O2 sensors, so no DTCs are present: which may help improve -> and correct the idle at operating temp. issue.

No cabin heat, sounds like a blocked heater core. (No heater valve on the Gen 4.5 Camry's: coolant is piped directly into the heater core.)

Would the switch itself really cause the car to run to poorly? Car is fine when it’s cold, issues arise when at operating temp. I have a spare filter I’ll throw on. The two codes are the same, they are p0420. I’m going to flush the coolant completely.

 

[BishopKrout]

Depending on the answers to other questions, a heater not working when all else appears to be operating correctly can be an early indicator of a HG leak.

I do have old oil on the back of the engine behind the spark plugs, under the egr valve.

 

[BishopKrout]

First thing Id do is check the oil level / condition then throw a mechanical pressure gauge on it and check the actual oil pressure... if the oil pressure is indeed excessively low then you might as well just stop right there before exploring the other issues.

If the oil pressure is really low what should I do next? The oil is full I just replaced a week ago.

 

[BishopKrout]

It was brought to my attention that the alternator could be causing issues. It looks really old and may be oem. Any insight on that?

 

[sdspeed]

That P0420 is a Cat code which could be pushing it into a lean fuel mixture. That will cause most the issues you have. Could still have exhaust gases getting into the coolant when things expand as the cars operating temp goes up.
Any sign of oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil.
Take a look in the radiator before the car heats up and see if there's a lot of air bubbles and cavitation. Look under the oil filler cap for water contamination.

If you find the oil pressure is too low then things are gonna get expensive and continue to domino since the engine would need to be torn down to remedy most oil pressure problems.
Have a local auto parts store load check the battery and charging system. If everything your describing is happening then it might not make sense to put any money into it especially if you can't do any of the work

 

[BishopKrout]

That P0420 is a Cat code which could be pushing it into a lean fuel mixture. That will cause most the issues you have. Could still have exhaust gases getting into the coolant when things expand as the cars operating temp goes up.
Any sign of oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil.
Take a look in the radiator before the car heats up and see if there's a lot of air bubbles and cavitation. Look under the oil filler cap for water contamination.

If you find the oil pressure is too low then things are gonna get expensive and continue to domino since the engine would need to be torn down to remedy most oil pressure problems.
Have a local auto parts store load check the battery and charging system. If everything your describing is happening then it might not make sense to put any money into it especially if you can't do any of the work

Definitely not what I want to hear😂. I’ve had the car for 3000 miles and have had issues since my 2nd week of ownership. I’m going to have a mechanic check it out. What can I do about the cat code? I haven’t noticed any mixture. The oil seemed fine when I drained it, just pretty dark but after only 2500 miles. I’ll check the radiator out in the morning when I go pick up the car, we left it parked because it was over heating but it never touched the red zone. How would I fix the exhaust gas mixing? Also when I accelerate the car from a stop it makes a weird clunk sound when I initially tap the gas, it only happens when engine is warm

 

[BishopKrout]

Definitely not what I want to hear😂. I’ve had the car for 3000 miles and have had issues since my 2nd week of ownership. I’m going to have a mechanic check it out. What can I do about the cat code? I haven’t noticed any mixture. The oil seemed fine when I drained it, just pretty dark but after only 2500 miles. I’ll check the radiator out in the morning when I go pick up the car, we left it parked because it was over heating but it never touched the red zone. How would I fix the exhaust gas mixing? Also when I accelerate the car from a stop it makes a weird clunk sound when I initially tap the gas, it only happens when engine is warm

I can do some work but I don’t think I can do anything that requires the removal of the engine.

 

[sdspeed]

Well having a mechanic look at it should give you a better idea and some order to all the issues.
If it has a bad cat then it would need to be replaced. A bad head or head gasket the motor would need to come a part.
The clunk and eve some of the vibration could be one or more of the engine mounts.

 

[93celicaconv]

It didn’t quite die it just got about 7/8 of the temp gauge and I was able to safely get it to a parking lot close by and shit the car off. But yes the car has over heating issues, never this bad though. When I’m driving it stays cool but idle is when it warms up

This response sounds like a problem with the radiator fan(s). If the temperature comes down while driving, the cool air going through the radiator is cooling the coolant, and the coolant seems like it would be moving through the engine properly. When stopped and engine idling, there is no air going through the radiator - the coolant gets very warm in the radiator, and a coolant temperature switch should open which turns the radiator fans on. Seems like the fans are not running. When the engine idles and the temperature is going up when the car is not being driven, do the radiator fans turn and and run?

 

[1990Toyota]

If the oil pressure is really low what should I do next? The oil is full I just replaced a week ago.

If its really actually low...... that will take care of ALL your problems lol basically it may be time for a new car.

Basically have a shop hook up an actual mechanical pressure oil gauge up to it when hot.... and if you pressure is really that bad,.,,,,, well,,,,, your other problems will be "gone" as well unless you intend to spend a ton of money rebuilding the motor or getting another motor

thats why, check the oil problem first... cause thats the one problem that could doom this car.... no sense fixing all those issues and finding out the motor is toast.


Im kinda thinking it really is low seeing as the oil light comes on only when hot.... it COULD be a sensor.... but.....