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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got done with my motor mounts this weekend and it was much easier than I thought. I had much more trouble getting off the rear adjustable arm because it was rusted on like you wouldn't believe.

Anyways..

Tools needed:
- Jack
- Small block of wood around 5 inches long
- PB blaster or penetrating oil or both
- 2 Jackstands
- offset 17 mm Wrench (regular one with a little bend so its not straight)
- Ratchet with 14mm regular and 14 mm deep sockets.
- Extensions for ratchet
- 17 mm socket (I believe but not sure)
- Big old breaker bar (mine was the 1/2" 3 foot or so one from autozone with the smooth handle and black end piece)
- Flashlight for looking around underneath the car

Instructions

1) Use 14mm to remove dogbone motor mount
2) jack up car and use jackstands enough to slide under

Rear mounts- slide under car
3) Reach up to the side of the downpipe and feel for the top bolt of the mount 17mm.
4) Put the wrench on so it faces downward. Put it on the side closer to the bracket thing with the foam cover.
5) Use your breaker bar and lever it against the front axle to the wrench. If you can get it lose just by pulling the wrench, good for you.
6) Loosen up the 17 mm nut.
7) Put the jack under the oilpan using the piece of wood between the oil pan and jack.
8) jack up the engine little by little and you'll see the top loosen up.
9) Remove the 3 14mm nuts with your 14mm deep socket
10) Jack up the engine more and more until you can get it out.
11) Shimmy the mount around the axle. You need to twist it different ways to get it out.
12) Install is pretty much the reverse

Front mount
1) lower engine and car back to its tires
2) Remove the top bolt (I think its a 17mm). Mine was stuck like you wouldn't believe. I used 4 extensions and the 3 foot breaker bar to get it loose. You don't want to whack the radiator with the wrench.
3) Remove the 2 side 14mm bolts from the top (I used extensions on the ratchets for this one too)
4) Remove the center 14mm bolt from underneath the car. Do not try to unscrew the 15mm nut on the top. Its welded to the motor mount.
5) Jack up the motor with the wood block till you can get it loose.
6) Shimmy it out around the side near the cruise control box.
7) Put the new one in and lower the jack slightly to line everything up.

Its not as difficult as many think. Especially the rear one. If you have the right tools you can bang it out in an hour. I'd PB Blast everything and come back in a few hours to try and loosen them.
 

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nice DIY ... how come nobody just sets a Torque Wrench to like 150ft-lbs instead of using a breaker bar? i always find that easier
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Maim Menu said:
Nice DIY

I was actually planning to do this pretty soon, how much did you pay for the parts?
Got them off Fleabay for around 100 total for all 3. They seem ok. Wood was free from a construction site dumpster :) The car is held together mostly by rust and luck so I wasn't looking for long term quality and spending alot of money

Sadly I didn't have a torque wrench for the 1/2" only a 3/8" and it was rusted to more than 150 ft/lbs (14 years of MA winters will do that). I was hoping I wouldn't break off the bolt head, which luckily I didn't.
 

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Front mount and radiator just replaced

I picked up a set off ebay for $109, this guy has good feeddback and their shipping was swift. Before I got a chance to put them on, my radiator sprung a leak and I had to replace it. Autozone had one in stock. That was one hell of a way to make changing the motor mount easy! With the radiator out there's nothing to block or slow progress for the front mount. It took 30 Minutes for the engine mount and front torque strut. The radiator was a breeze too.
Now i need to tackle the rear.

eBay mounts: http://stores.ebay.com/OEM-PARTS-PLUS_Toyota-Camry_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ3834654QQftidZ2QQtZkm
 

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All you would need is wrench extensions, I used two and didnt have any issues with the radiator. My experience with buying mounts from ebay was bad. Chinese metal is nowhere near oem quality, I ended up returning the set and buying oem parts from the local Toyota dealer. Hopefully you will not have this problem. By the way, for the rear mount I found it easier using an extension plus a joint to take out the top bolt from above the engine. Good luck on the rear mount!
 

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When I buy from eBay, which I do a lot, I always check the feedback rating and email previous customers who purchased the stuff I'm getting or anything from the seller to find out if they were satisfied or not.
It's good to know I can get to the top bolt from the top, I have an 18" 1/2" extension with a joint. Thanks for the info.
 

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4) Put the wrench on so it faces downward. Put it on the side closer to the bracket thing with the foam cover.

What is the bracket thing with the foam cover?
You don't have to remove the center axle bearing support from the block to remove this mount? Did it come out on the driver or passenger side of engine?
I called my local Toyota dealer and the OME part from them is $205 and after he quoted me the price in the next breath he said "and you can put it in". He said that it was a pain to replace, but I fiqured that they don't like to work on vintage autos.
Thanks for your help,
RB
 

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It's pronounced "Nesquik"
1992 Camry LE
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This was quite a piece of work for my uncle and I when we were swapping out my old AT for a new one. Now that I think of it, I should have gotten it switched to an MT, but that would have cost more :p Oh well.
Great write up, btw.
 

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rear mount

flexysteve said:
I just got done with my motor mounts this weekend and it was much easier than I thought. I had much more trouble getting off the rear adjustable arm because it was rusted on like you wouldn't believe.

Anyways..

Tools needed:
- Jack
- Small block of wood around 5 inches long
- PB blaster or penetrating oil or both
- 2 Jackstands
- offset 17 mm Wrench (regular one with a little bend so its not straight)
- Ratchet with 14mm regular and 14 mm deep sockets.
- Extensions for ratchet
- 17 mm socket (I believe but not sure)
- Big old breaker bar (mine was the 1/2" 3 foot or so one from autozone with the smooth handle and black end piece)
- Flashlight for looking around underneath the car

Instructions

1) Use 14mm to remove dogbone motor mount
2) jack up car and use jackstands enough to slide under

Rear mounts- slide under car
3) Reach up to the side of the downpipe and feel for the top bolt of the mount 17mm.
4) Put the wrench on so it faces downward. Put it on the side closer to the bracket thing with the foam cover.
5) Use your breaker bar and lever it against the front axle to the wrench. If you can get it lose just by pulling the wrench, good for you.
6) Loosen up the 17 mm nut.
7) Put the jack under the oilpan using the piece of wood between the oil pan and jack.
8) jack up the engine little by little and you'll see the top loosen up.
9) Remove the 3 14mm nuts with your 14mm deep socket
10) Jack up the engine more and more until you can get it out.
11) Shimmy the mount around the axle. You need to twist it different ways to get it out.
12) Install is pretty much the reverse

Front mount
1) lower engine and car back to its tires
2) Remove the top bolt (I think its a 17mm). Mine was stuck like you wouldn't believe. I used 4 extensions and the 3 foot breaker bar to get it loose. You don't want to whack the radiator with the wrench.
3) Remove the 2 side 14mm bolts from the top (I used extensions on the ratchets for this one too)
4) Remove the center 14mm bolt from underneath the car. Do not try to unscrew the 15mm nut on the top. Its welded to the motor mount.
5) Jack up the motor with the wood block till you can get it loose.
6) Shimmy it out around the side near the cruise control box.
7) Put the new one in and lower the jack slightly to line everything up.

Its not as difficult as many think. Especially the rear one. If you have the right tools you can bang it out in an hour. I'd PB Blast everything and come back in a few hours to try and loosen them.
hi, new here and need to change my mounts. I am confused about the rear adjustable arm and were it is located. I have a 4cly. Is the arm on a 6cyl?
 

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I installed the rear mount yesterday and it was a breeze for me. None of the bolts were frozen. Even the 17mm on top only took a little force. It was done in just under an hour. I have the '93 4cyl and there was nothing to move or unbolt except the mount and front torque strut on top.
:clap:
 

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Thanks for the good words! My car as never been driven on salted roads so I am hoping it will be an easy job.:thankyou:
Bear95
 

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I was talking to my mechanic about and he made it sound like are hell!! now i'm guessing he was bs'ing me to overcharge me eh you cant trust noone :(
 

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Ninja wrench anywhere
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I'm in the middle of doing this job. No problem with the dogbone or the front motor mount, and I've got the nuts all off the rear mount (had to use a couple of u-joints and a 18" extension to get the top 17mm nut off from above), but damned if I can get the motor jacked up enough to get that rear mount out of there (the passenger side tire was actually lifting off the ground when I gave up out of fear of caving in the oil pan). I have the dogbone currently unbolted. Is it necessary to unbolt the front mount to get the rear out, or is there some other trick? Top first or bottom first, or does it matter?
 

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I'm in the middle of doing this job. No problem with the dogbone or the front motor mount, and I've got the nuts all off the rear mount (had to use a couple of u-joints and a 18" extension to get the top 17mm nut off from above), but damned if I can get the motor jacked up enough to get that rear mount out of there (the passenger side tire was actually lifting off the ground when I gave up out of fear of caving in the oil pan). I have the dogbone currently unbolted. Is it necessary to unbolt the front mount to get the rear out, or is there some other trick? Top first or bottom first, or does it matter?
With the motor jacked up, lift the mount up and twist and tilt the bottom to the passanger side and wiggle it out. Do you have the front of the car on jack stands? This is a must for safety and you will have more room to work with the tire removed.
 

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Ninja wrench anywhere
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I'm almost too ashamed to admit this, but maybe it'll save someone some time along the way. I had unbolted the dogbone from the motor bracket, but hadn't removed the dogbone, and when I was trying to raise the motor, the dogbone was binding against the bracket enough to prevent me getting the motor as high as I needed. Once I removed the motor bracket so the dogbone wasn't binding, I was able to get plenty of clearance to remove and reinstall the rear mount. Talk about a :headbang: moment.

Thanks for the pointers White95Cam -- and my Green 95 Cam thanks you, too! :thumbsup:
 

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I'm almost too ashamed to admit this, but maybe it'll save someone some time along the way. I had unbolted the dogbone from the motor bracket, but hadn't removed the dogbone, and when I was trying to raise the motor, the dogbone was binding against the bracket enough to prevent me getting the motor as high as I needed. Once I removed the motor bracket so the dogbone wasn't binding, I was able to get plenty of clearance to remove and reinstall the rear mount. Talk about a :headbang: moment.

Thanks for the pointers White95Cam -- and my Green 95 Cam thanks you, too! :thumbsup:
That is great news! I have had a few head banging moments myself:D.
W95C
 

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Was the shaking much much better after the rear mount changed ? I've changed my top mount and after, I think I can live with the current slight shaking (shift to neutral) for sometime now. But if it's a big improvement, I may fork out the doughs and more importantly the time on dirty indoor floor not well lit, and rust covered, salt-eaten bolts (I'm in Ontario).
 
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