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5SFE Motor Mount How-to

62K views 64 replies 39 participants last post by  dgray007 
#1 ·
I just got done with my motor mounts this weekend and it was much easier than I thought. I had much more trouble getting off the rear adjustable arm because it was rusted on like you wouldn't believe.

Anyways..

Tools needed:
- Jack
- Small block of wood around 5 inches long
- PB blaster or penetrating oil or both
- 2 Jackstands
- offset 17 mm Wrench (regular one with a little bend so its not straight)
- Ratchet with 14mm regular and 14 mm deep sockets.
- Extensions for ratchet
- 17 mm socket (I believe but not sure)
- Big old breaker bar (mine was the 1/2" 3 foot or so one from autozone with the smooth handle and black end piece)
- Flashlight for looking around underneath the car

Instructions

1) Use 14mm to remove dogbone motor mount
2) jack up car and use jackstands enough to slide under

Rear mounts- slide under car
3) Reach up to the side of the downpipe and feel for the top bolt of the mount 17mm.
4) Put the wrench on so it faces downward. Put it on the side closer to the bracket thing with the foam cover.
5) Use your breaker bar and lever it against the front axle to the wrench. If you can get it lose just by pulling the wrench, good for you.
6) Loosen up the 17 mm nut.
7) Put the jack under the oilpan using the piece of wood between the oil pan and jack.
8) jack up the engine little by little and you'll see the top loosen up.
9) Remove the 3 14mm nuts with your 14mm deep socket
10) Jack up the engine more and more until you can get it out.
11) Shimmy the mount around the axle. You need to twist it different ways to get it out.
12) Install is pretty much the reverse

Front mount
1) lower engine and car back to its tires
2) Remove the top bolt (I think its a 17mm). Mine was stuck like you wouldn't believe. I used 4 extensions and the 3 foot breaker bar to get it loose. You don't want to whack the radiator with the wrench.
3) Remove the 2 side 14mm bolts from the top (I used extensions on the ratchets for this one too)
4) Remove the center 14mm bolt from underneath the car. Do not try to unscrew the 15mm nut on the top. Its welded to the motor mount.
5) Jack up the motor with the wood block till you can get it loose.
6) Shimmy it out around the side near the cruise control box.
7) Put the new one in and lower the jack slightly to line everything up.

Its not as difficult as many think. Especially the rear one. If you have the right tools you can bang it out in an hour. I'd PB Blast everything and come back in a few hours to try and loosen them.
 
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#4 ·
Maim Menu said:
Nice DIY

I was actually planning to do this pretty soon, how much did you pay for the parts?
Got them off Fleabay for around 100 total for all 3. They seem ok. Wood was free from a construction site dumpster :) The car is held together mostly by rust and luck so I wasn't looking for long term quality and spending alot of money

Sadly I didn't have a torque wrench for the 1/2" only a 3/8" and it was rusted to more than 150 ft/lbs (14 years of MA winters will do that). I was hoping I wouldn't break off the bolt head, which luckily I didn't.
 
#5 ·
Front mount and radiator just replaced

I picked up a set off ebay for $109, this guy has good feeddback and their shipping was swift. Before I got a chance to put them on, my radiator sprung a leak and I had to replace it. Autozone had one in stock. That was one hell of a way to make changing the motor mount easy! With the radiator out there's nothing to block or slow progress for the front mount. It took 30 Minutes for the engine mount and front torque strut. The radiator was a breeze too.
Now i need to tackle the rear.

eBay mounts: http://stores.ebay.com/OEM-PARTS-PLUS_Toyota-Camry_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ3834654QQftidZ2QQtZkm
 
#6 · (Edited)
All you would need is wrench extensions, I used two and didnt have any issues with the radiator. My experience with buying mounts from ebay was bad. Chinese metal is nowhere near oem quality, I ended up returning the set and buying oem parts from the local Toyota dealer. Hopefully you will not have this problem. By the way, for the rear mount I found it easier using an extension plus a joint to take out the top bolt from above the engine. Good luck on the rear mount!
 
#7 ·
When I buy from eBay, which I do a lot, I always check the feedback rating and email previous customers who purchased the stuff I'm getting or anything from the seller to find out if they were satisfied or not.
It's good to know I can get to the top bolt from the top, I have an 18" 1/2" extension with a joint. Thanks for the info.
 
#8 · (Edited)
4) Put the wrench on so it faces downward. Put it on the side closer to the bracket thing with the foam cover.

What is the bracket thing with the foam cover?
You don't have to remove the center axle bearing support from the block to remove this mount? Did it come out on the driver or passenger side of engine?
I called my local Toyota dealer and the OME part from them is $205 and after he quoted me the price in the next breath he said "and you can put it in". He said that it was a pain to replace, but I fiqured that they don't like to work on vintage autos.
Thanks for your help,
RB
 
#10 ·
rear mount

flexysteve said:
I just got done with my motor mounts this weekend and it was much easier than I thought. I had much more trouble getting off the rear adjustable arm because it was rusted on like you wouldn't believe.

Anyways..

Tools needed:
- Jack
- Small block of wood around 5 inches long
- PB blaster or penetrating oil or both
- 2 Jackstands
- offset 17 mm Wrench (regular one with a little bend so its not straight)
- Ratchet with 14mm regular and 14 mm deep sockets.
- Extensions for ratchet
- 17 mm socket (I believe but not sure)
- Big old breaker bar (mine was the 1/2" 3 foot or so one from autozone with the smooth handle and black end piece)
- Flashlight for looking around underneath the car

Instructions

1) Use 14mm to remove dogbone motor mount
2) jack up car and use jackstands enough to slide under

Rear mounts- slide under car
3) Reach up to the side of the downpipe and feel for the top bolt of the mount 17mm.
4) Put the wrench on so it faces downward. Put it on the side closer to the bracket thing with the foam cover.
5) Use your breaker bar and lever it against the front axle to the wrench. If you can get it lose just by pulling the wrench, good for you.
6) Loosen up the 17 mm nut.
7) Put the jack under the oilpan using the piece of wood between the oil pan and jack.
8) jack up the engine little by little and you'll see the top loosen up.
9) Remove the 3 14mm nuts with your 14mm deep socket
10) Jack up the engine more and more until you can get it out.
11) Shimmy the mount around the axle. You need to twist it different ways to get it out.
12) Install is pretty much the reverse

Front mount
1) lower engine and car back to its tires
2) Remove the top bolt (I think its a 17mm). Mine was stuck like you wouldn't believe. I used 4 extensions and the 3 foot breaker bar to get it loose. You don't want to whack the radiator with the wrench.
3) Remove the 2 side 14mm bolts from the top (I used extensions on the ratchets for this one too)
4) Remove the center 14mm bolt from underneath the car. Do not try to unscrew the 15mm nut on the top. Its welded to the motor mount.
5) Jack up the motor with the wood block till you can get it loose.
6) Shimmy it out around the side near the cruise control box.
7) Put the new one in and lower the jack slightly to line everything up.

Its not as difficult as many think. Especially the rear one. If you have the right tools you can bang it out in an hour. I'd PB Blast everything and come back in a few hours to try and loosen them.
hi, new here and need to change my mounts. I am confused about the rear adjustable arm and were it is located. I have a 4cly. Is the arm on a 6cyl?
 
#11 ·
I installed the rear mount yesterday and it was a breeze for me. None of the bolts were frozen. Even the 17mm on top only took a little force. It was done in just under an hour. I have the '93 4cyl and there was nothing to move or unbolt except the mount and front torque strut on top.
:clap:
 
#16 ·
I'm in the middle of doing this job. No problem with the dogbone or the front motor mount, and I've got the nuts all off the rear mount (had to use a couple of u-joints and a 18" extension to get the top 17mm nut off from above), but damned if I can get the motor jacked up enough to get that rear mount out of there (the passenger side tire was actually lifting off the ground when I gave up out of fear of caving in the oil pan). I have the dogbone currently unbolted. Is it necessary to unbolt the front mount to get the rear out, or is there some other trick? Top first or bottom first, or does it matter?
 
#17 ·
I'm in the middle of doing this job. No problem with the dogbone or the front motor mount, and I've got the nuts all off the rear mount (had to use a couple of u-joints and a 18" extension to get the top 17mm nut off from above), but damned if I can get the motor jacked up enough to get that rear mount out of there (the passenger side tire was actually lifting off the ground when I gave up out of fear of caving in the oil pan). I have the dogbone currently unbolted. Is it necessary to unbolt the front mount to get the rear out, or is there some other trick? Top first or bottom first, or does it matter?
With the motor jacked up, lift the mount up and twist and tilt the bottom to the passanger side and wiggle it out. Do you have the front of the car on jack stands? This is a must for safety and you will have more room to work with the tire removed.
 
#18 ·
I'm almost too ashamed to admit this, but maybe it'll save someone some time along the way. I had unbolted the dogbone from the motor bracket, but hadn't removed the dogbone, and when I was trying to raise the motor, the dogbone was binding against the bracket enough to prevent me getting the motor as high as I needed. Once I removed the motor bracket so the dogbone wasn't binding, I was able to get plenty of clearance to remove and reinstall the rear mount. Talk about a :headbang: moment.

Thanks for the pointers White95Cam -- and my Green 95 Cam thanks you, too! :thumbsup:
 
#19 ·
I'm almost too ashamed to admit this, but maybe it'll save someone some time along the way. I had unbolted the dogbone from the motor bracket, but hadn't removed the dogbone, and when I was trying to raise the motor, the dogbone was binding against the bracket enough to prevent me getting the motor as high as I needed. Once I removed the motor bracket so the dogbone wasn't binding, I was able to get plenty of clearance to remove and reinstall the rear mount. Talk about a :headbang: moment.

Thanks for the pointers White95Cam -- and my Green 95 Cam thanks you, too! :thumbsup:
That is great news! I have had a few head banging moments myself:D.
W95C
 
#20 · (Edited)
Was the shaking much much better after the rear mount changed ? I've changed my top mount and after, I think I can live with the current slight shaking (shift to neutral) for sometime now. But if it's a big improvement, I may fork out the doughs and more importantly the time on dirty indoor floor not well lit, and rust covered, salt-eaten bolts (I'm in Ontario).
 
#21 ·
I didn't notice much improvement when I changed out my rear mount, but it wasn't nearly as bad of shape as the front mount.

I'd recommend changing the front mount when you change the dogbone (from what I understand, the front mount goes, which puts so much stress on the dogbone that it goes), otherwise you'll just have to change out the dogbone again in a year. You can always decide to change out the rear mount later if you want.
 
#22 ·
i'm about to change the dog bone. in current one the smaller rubber ring is cracked. i'm hoping it will improve some noisy vibrations and slight shaking when putting car in reverse.

did you have to support engine with a jack during dog bone rod removal ?
 
#26 ·
just an update.

i replaced the dog bone (top center engine moving rod) using a 2t jack as a support. i don't think it took any weight though, as i heard no creeks. replacing dog bone was a piece of cake (just 2 bolts around 47ft-lbs or so).
it helped with rough reverse shifting to my surprise, but didn't solve some vibrating issue at idle with brakes applied.

still not sure if any of my engine mounts have anything to do with audible vibration at idle, mostly when shifted to Reverse with brakes applied.

I also noticed that most of people uses brake pads with v-spings. well i don't have them since i switched to aftermarket pads. is it possible that this might add up ? could be that i'm hearing brake pads vibrating, e.g. when shifting from Drive to Reverse with brakes applied ? need to check this way out. ordered a full fitting set of springs from dealer.
 
#27 ·
I have to replace the front exhaust pipe on my '98 because the flex pipe is toast. Thinking my mounts may have contributed to its failure, I did the MM Test. I measured about 3/4" of rotation at the top of the engine while doing the MM Test, forward and reverse. Replaced the Dogbone, (cracked bushing) but it did not reduce engine rotation much. How much rotation is to be expected if the mounts are still good?
 
#30 ·
my camry failed inspection because of motor mounts broken/loose. I don't think they actaully looked at the mounts but by diagnosing from my car's ruff shifting. I read here that the dogbone mount replaced will help the shifting but my dogbone's rubber is fine, not cracked at all. So could it be the other mounts? I think the guy said it was a rear mount that was broken/loose.
 
#31 ·
last time i brought my car to the local shop for exhaust check (noise) they found out broken flex pipe and said most likely it heppened because of bad bottom engine mounts.

they did the mentioned above test and it came up that both of them are very weak. engine still moves excessively to front/rear, however it's not jumping up/down anymore with good dog bone.

They replaced the flex pipe so far, but also said if i don't replace mounts I will have same problems soon. Deciced to replace all rest of mounts soon (already ordered OEM) - front/rear and transmission (LH).
 
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