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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Lots of talk about removing the valve cover nuts that are around the spark plugs when one doesn't have a 30mm socket.

To me, this implies not having a torque wrench either when it comes to reinstalling the nuts.

I can't find any mention of how to guestimate the proper torque when not using a torque wrench. Given the number of folks who suggest using a large Crescent wrench or slip-pliers, there must be some generic wisdom that can be offered as to how much "oomph" is approximately the correct torque. :)

And as long as we're talking tightening valve cover nuts, is there a recommended pattern and number of passes through all four for doing the tightening?
 

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Common sense is the best bet if you don't have the right tools. And don't do it like my buddy use to! Tighten it until it breaks and back it off a quarter of a turn!:D

Gary
 

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1993 Camry XLE
93 CamXLE/73 Lincoln
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How about you just pick up a decent torque wrench. Could deffinitely save you a big headache.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Gary_602Z said:
Common sense is the best bet if you don't have the right tools.
True, but if I haven't even the remotest clue as to what "17 foot pounds" feels like, I have no common sense to draw from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
HoboJoe said:
How about you just pick up a decent torque wrench. Could deffinitely save you a big headache.
That, of course, is the correct and safe answer. I just figured with the zillions of readers here who are doing it by the seat of their pants, there might be an easily explainable tip that would get me close.

And save me $60 bucks, or whatever a decent but cheap torque wrench would cost. :)
 

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ladd2 said:
True, but if I haven't even the remotest clue as to what "17 foot pounds" feels like, I have no common sense to draw from.
Well if you want to figure that out get a crescent wrench about 1 foot long and a spring scale. On a bolt someplace that is accessable put the wrench on and then pull on the end of the wrench with the scale 17ft/lbs is the same as 17lbs applied thru a 1 foot lever(the crescent wrench) or using math 34lbs applied thru a 6" lever. With a little practice you will get it!

Gary
 

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90 Camry Wagon V6
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get a decent cheapie torque wrench from harbor freight (local store) or mail order.
I have seen them as cheap as $9
remember when you store them, you store them unloaded
get your 30 mm socket from the same store.
remember you are not putting together a titanium jetliner wing, just a darn valve cover.

alternate way would be to go to your bathroom scale and see how much you can push down with our thumb, MAX lb.
use that as a guide as how much you can push with your thumb for tightening
 

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I'm a Mac
DD - 94 Mitsu 3000GT
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yeah go buy a socket that fits... it will only be a few bucks for one socket.

and as for the torque... just remember the valve cover is aluminum so the threads will strip easily... adjust your torque with that in mind.
 

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Dave's
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Tighten it enough so it doesn't leak and not so tight it breaks.:D (Using the correct wrench, ratchet etc. can help as they are 'roughly' sized to provide a safe torque using reasonable force. Notice that 1" combo wrench is much longer and can provide more torque than a 1/4" wrench. Don't use a 1/2 ratchet with adaptors on an 1/8" 1/4" drive socket.) However, I have become a big believer in using torque wrenchs. There was a time when things were overbuilt and torque was only needed on critical items. In these days of 'cheesy' fasteners and parts, it's become much more important.
 

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I used a crescent wrench with 1-hand. Just alternated the torqueing pattern inside 2 then outside 2. No leaks, well not unless you count the 235k Distributor O-ring I havn't replaced yet... grin
 
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