Doozer - did you get my message? Check your messages.
5sfe water in engine :(
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Yeah got yr msg, cheers mate. No need, i've already been "sorted" in that repect by LynchburgCSI. But thanks for the offer 
Anyways, my mate gets back from holiday with my trolley jack tomorrow. I'll carrry out the tyre rotation and tightening of intake manifold (I can't get to all the bolts from the top) and see if that fixes my noise.
Changed/flushed out my clutch fluid and are amazed at the results! Hoping to get another year out of this clutch now......touch wood haha.
Anyways, my mate gets back from holiday with my trolley jack tomorrow. I'll carrry out the tyre rotation and tightening of intake manifold (I can't get to all the bolts from the top) and see if that fixes my noise.
Changed/flushed out my clutch fluid and are amazed at the results! Hoping to get another year out of this clutch now......touch wood haha.
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*Sigh* Loosing coolant AGAIN. Wtf.... I see threads on here about pressure testing the cooling system. I now have a compressor but I guess I need another tool to pressure test everything? I don't think my radiator is blocked (but it could be) and I know the overflow reservoir needs to be replaced. I'm soooooo over it!!!!! I know i'm probably due for a new radiator, but whats to say I get new radiator/reservoir and still have problems? I'm thinking now that what I thought originally was cooling system problems was correct, and thats what destroyed my h/g in the 1st place. I dunno anymore lol.
EDIT: This is why I don't want to put the TLLC in yet, there's no point til I know the cooling system is leak free. However, i'm curious to know if putting an OEM thermo in could help, as its an aftermarket one about a year old with no jiggle valve.
EDIT: This is why I don't want to put the TLLC in yet, there's no point til I know the cooling system is leak free. However, i'm curious to know if putting an OEM thermo in could help, as its an aftermarket one about a year old with no jiggle valve.
You can rent a coolant pressure tester from Autozone and Advanced Auto for fairly cheap.
Or you can buy one online. Really simple to use, the kit will come with various adapters and a Gauge with a needle looking deal off the end of it. You find the cap that fits inside the radiator, twist it and lock it. Set the gauge to 15psi and slide the gauge / needle assembly into the adapter you locked onto the radiator. Hook your compressor up to the gauge and let it pressurize :thumbsup:
Or you can buy one online. Really simple to use, the kit will come with various adapters and a Gauge with a needle looking deal off the end of it. You find the cap that fits inside the radiator, twist it and lock it. Set the gauge to 15psi and slide the gauge / needle assembly into the adapter you locked onto the radiator. Hook your compressor up to the gauge and let it pressurize :thumbsup:
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Jacked up car and tightened up the intake manifold this afternoon. Still got the vibration. Gonna rotate the front wheels to the back tomorrow and see if this solves it. Given that the head was resurfaced, would the decreased height mean a valve could've bent from touching a cylinder head? What does a bent valve sound like? I'm sure my timing is ok, but if it was off by a tooth how would I know?
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I can't remember where I read it, but I saw a comment by Fenixus that the t/b actually must go in a certain way - that the belts not uniform all around and could be upside down. I'm pretty sure I put my t/b on how it came off but i'm not 100% certain. How can I confirm if my t/b is on the right way? Its a Dayco belt and when standing at the RHF wheel, the 'Dayco' label on the belt is correct from the RHF wheel, but from the LHF wheel the 'Dayco' label would be upside down. Can anyone with a Dayco t/b confirm which is the correct way?
Cheers
Cheers
The timing belt may have markings to help you align the pulleys. In that case yes the belt can be installed facing the wrong direction. Because the marks won't line up with the pulleys.
On V6 engines, to help avoid having to remove and compress the hydraulic tensioner, paint markings on the belts are important. otherwise you don't really need them. The teeth on the belt are all identical.
Even with the paint marks lined up, you are still supposed to rotate the crank 2 revolutions and make sure the *marks on the sprockets* still line up with the timing cover backing or oil pump body before buttoning things up.
On V6 engines, to help avoid having to remove and compress the hydraulic tensioner, paint markings on the belts are important. otherwise you don't really need them. The teeth on the belt are all identical.
Even with the paint marks lined up, you are still supposed to rotate the crank 2 revolutions and make sure the *marks on the sprockets* still line up with the timing cover backing or oil pump body before buttoning things up.
I can't remember where I read it, but I saw a comment by Fenixus that the t/b actually must go in a certain way - that the belts not uniform all around and could be upside down. I'm pretty sure I put my t/b on how it came off but i'm not 100% certain. How can I confirm if my t/b is on the right way? Its a Dayco belt and when standing at the RHF wheel, the 'Dayco' label on the belt is correct from the RHF wheel, but from the LHF wheel the 'Dayco' label would be upside down. Can anyone with a Dayco t/b confirm which is the correct way?
Cheers
hmmm, can't say if i posted such comment or not, because my memory can be short (and selective) lol :lol:
but as long as timing marks align to camshaft and crankshaft (or lower TB cover) marks then it's all good no matter how you put the belt on.
OEM belts have markson them that fit only 1 way, they help with initial belt alignment, it's written (with drawings) somewhere in the FSM.
I believe you have it right on spot. feel free to check with others though
but as long as timing marks align to camshaft and crankshaft (or lower TB cover) marks then it's all good no matter how you put the belt on.
OEM belts have markson them that fit only 1 way, they help with initial belt alignment, it's written (with drawings) somewhere in the FSM.
I believe you have it right on spot. feel free to check with others though
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I've checked the timing mark on the cam against the '0' on the crank/tb cover a few times and it lines up. This noise has me scratching my head as it wasn't there to begin with after the h/g was replaced. It developed later on which is odd. I just removed all 4 plugs and they're all fine (apart from them being Bosch that is!). I thought I put NGK's in lol ah well. I had the starter motor out too, i'm wondering if something is off there but it really only bolts on one way so how could that be an issue. Could a tooth have been damaged on the flywheel when I jammed it?
Also, in another post here a guy installed his cam shaft seal as I did, by removing the cap - and put RTV on the cap. Could the RTV have gotten somewhere it shouldn't have? I'm running out of ideas but I still haven't rotated my wheels. I could do it now but i'm kinda convinced this is gearbox/clutch/engine/drivetrain noise rather than tyres. I guess I should just rotate them to eliminate them. But i'm sure i'll jump back in the car and the noise will be there, due to it (the noise) developing some 150km after h/g and t/b job (though the old belt is still on there).
EDIT: Given the head was machined, (and therefore lowered slightly?) if I rotated the crank without the belt on (which I did) could I have bent a valve even though its non-interference?
Also, in another post here a guy installed his cam shaft seal as I did, by removing the cap - and put RTV on the cap. Could the RTV have gotten somewhere it shouldn't have? I'm running out of ideas but I still haven't rotated my wheels. I could do it now but i'm kinda convinced this is gearbox/clutch/engine/drivetrain noise rather than tyres. I guess I should just rotate them to eliminate them. But i'm sure i'll jump back in the car and the noise will be there, due to it (the noise) developing some 150km after h/g and t/b job (though the old belt is still on there).
EDIT: Given the head was machined, (and therefore lowered slightly?) if I rotated the crank without the belt on (which I did) could I have bent a valve even though its non-interference?
The amount removed is typically very small so shouldn't cause interference, often its 10-40mils. But you should try to isolate the source of the noise. If you don't have a mechanic's stethoscope, maybe a segment of garden hose can help.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html
If the noise is not there when parked/neutral, then it's not in the engine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html
If the noise is not there when parked/neutral, then it's not in the engine.
if you have a digital camera handy record the noise and post to youtube and re-post here
we like videos
but TBH, I think it's time to start eliminating things, I doubt it's either spark plugs fault or the Head machining (no way you bent any valves without a belt, that's not the case on non-interference engines).
i would make focus on belts, perhaps the TB cover is not proeprly attached and P/S belt is rubbing on it?
freshly rotated tires (out of balance rears now in front) can do some crazy things as well.
other than that I would check front brakes for dragging, especially the top caliper slide pins (or bottom on 5s-fe, ones with bushings on them I mean).
is the noise metallic or plastic in nature, is it rubbing or scratching?
perhaps it's the water pump making noise? they tend to sound like a bath tub drain (when it sucks water in) when they go bad ...
we like videos
but TBH, I think it's time to start eliminating things, I doubt it's either spark plugs fault or the Head machining (no way you bent any valves without a belt, that's not the case on non-interference engines).
i would make focus on belts, perhaps the TB cover is not proeprly attached and P/S belt is rubbing on it?
freshly rotated tires (out of balance rears now in front) can do some crazy things as well.
other than that I would check front brakes for dragging, especially the top caliper slide pins (or bottom on 5s-fe, ones with bushings on them I mean).
is the noise metallic or plastic in nature, is it rubbing or scratching?
perhaps it's the water pump making noise? they tend to sound like a bath tub drain (when it sucks water in) when they go bad ...
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Thats interesting. Would brake drag sound like a flat tyre? I know there is a noise coming from the rhf wheel/hub/brakes. Maybe its unrelated to the work I done and is a result of (a) the hub being exposed to the weather for so long while I completed the job or (b) me spraying some WD40 on the brake rotor.
I have noticed a slight noise coming from in there, usally when coasting up my driveway with the car out of gear, its a very small scraping noise but is definitely in time with the rhf wheel. maybe thats causing larger vibrations at speed.
EDIT: when I took off the upper t/b cover to recheck timing last time (and put extra tension on belt) I rotated that rhf wheel by hand (specifically to listen for said noise) as the vehicle was jacked up at the front. That scraping noise was present but very faint.
there you go.
it's either your wheel hub (less likely) or the dragging caliper/pad on rotor (very much likely).
and yes it can sound almost like a flat tire and it's a sort of a rubbing sound, best heard at lower speeds like 10-15mph.
inspect the caliper slide pins if they can slide in/out almost freely (2 fingers should be enough to move them easily), if one of them sticks then you know where the problem is.
If the sticky pin is the one with bushing on it, just remove the bushing from that pin and clean it with brake cleaner and re-grease. They are very easy to remove after unbolting caliper from bracket and resting it on dust shield and strut tower right above rotor.
it's either your wheel hub (less likely) or the dragging caliper/pad on rotor (very much likely).
and yes it can sound almost like a flat tire and it's a sort of a rubbing sound, best heard at lower speeds like 10-15mph.
inspect the caliper slide pins if they can slide in/out almost freely (2 fingers should be enough to move them easily), if one of them sticks then you know where the problem is.
If the sticky pin is the one with bushing on it, just remove the bushing from that pin and clean it with brake cleaner and re-grease. They are very easy to remove after unbolting caliper from bracket and resting it on dust shield and strut tower right above rotor.
The engine was never taken out of the car right? So the transmission didn't get unbolted from the engine? I wonder if clutch vibration is the problem. When you shift into neutral coasting home you primarily hear scraping? So does the vibration disappear when you shift into neutral? Does the noise change with the transmission in gear and the clutch disengaged or engaged?
Is the hub-to-wheel surfaces clean and free of rust? Was the axle nut ever removed?
Is the hub-to-wheel surfaces clean and free of rust? Was the axle nut ever removed?
Somewhere within this post you said you replaced a head gasket. Before you removed the exhaust cam, did you install a service bolt in the gear? If you did – did you remember to remove it after installing the exhaust cam? A short, button head, allen socket bolt will sometimes clear the head when the cams rotate. A longer, larger head, bolt would lock against the head when the cam turned. --- If you did not use a service bolt before removal of the exhaust cam, did you retention the spring in the cam drive gear? This pertains to the 5Sfe 4 cyl. Engine, I don’t know anything about the 6 cylinder, it may have the same procedure – read the manual. ---- If the gears are not mating proper this could cause some noise as a rolling clicking sound – maybe a vibration – just a thought.
Interesting point. That's something Fenixus can check the next time the valve cover is removed. Not so much for the bolt but for proper spring tension of the subgear.
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Engine was never removed or tranny unbolted. The clutch has been a problem in the past (slipping). But it doesn't do it now. The clutch fluid changed color over a few days, and I bled/replaced the fluid. When I coast up the driveway in neutral, the vibration is not there but there is a slight scrapping noise from rhf. The vibration itself is only present while in gear and decel/accel - which made me 1st suspect exhaust....
I didn't have the service bolt in place when the exhaust cam was removed. But when the head came back from shop with the cams installed into the head, the service bolt had been put back in. I definitely removed it after removing cams to bolt head down and after reinstalling cams/caps. How can I know if correct tension is on that spring-gear?
Have rotated the tyres anyway (in hindsight I should've rotated just the fronts as they're non-directional tread!) Gonna take for a quick drive now, and if that hasn't worked look more into this brake caliper issue
in deed that is some food for thought in my case. i'm having a vibration coming from camshaft pulley area. not sure if the pulley itself is the source of noise/vibration or the camshaft. will have to look into that spring tension issue next time I open it up... maybe I will attempt replacing the spring and/or bearing cap and see what happens.
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