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Turbo Snail
Cam A Roo
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I was thinking the same thing, but my SRS ring is screwed up right now.. air bag light on, cruise light doesnt turn on, so I cannot test that thought out :(

Thats a great idea to do though. Hook the clutch switch wires up to the NSS in the park circuit, and have the NSS Always in the Drive position. very clever slavie :)
 

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it lives..and spins wheel
97 Avalon
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613 Posts
thank you bud....so i believe i'm on the same page.. no the speedo plug obv. but the other plug. (2wire) in the trans is the "reverse switch"

..and the NSS reverse is powered to power the reverse light circuit roughly put. and the switch on the trans become the "circuit on-off" versus originally the actual NSS in my cars case.

this may happen tomorrow :thumbsup:
 

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Turbo Snail
Cam A Roo
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5,300 Posts
Seems like it will be pretty easy to make the cruise control work actually. Will it actually work? No one knows for sure as of yet :)

As you can see on the diagram below, the cruise control is powered on the same ECU pin as the manual transmission. The only difference is the park / neutral switch though. If you connect the Black / White wire and the Black wire to the clutch switch instead of the NSS, I think that it MIGHT work

 

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Discussion Starter #24
I hit a roadblock though: swapping the shifters.
QUESTION: Do I need to take out the HVAC unit to swap the shifters (99 Camry, w/ AC)? There seems to be no space whatsoever to pull the shifter linkage through.

Other than that, the engine was out today and I swapped in the clutch with the S51. Transmission is all bolted up to the engine. I picked a hell of a weekend to do the swap though: 25-35mph winds with gusts up to 50mph today. Windchill temperature of -1. I feel like I've been hit by a train and then run over by an 18-wheeler after a day out. I think I need a new back, too.
 

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1MZ powered MR2
1991 MR2
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1,065 Posts
The S54 from a Celica would've been a better choice for a manual transmission, though it revs a bit high on the freeway. It's easy enough to swap the 5th gears from an S54 and S51 of similar years if you want a cruising gear.

I'm using an S51 mated to my 1MZ-FE, and I couldn't imagine it mated to a 5SFE.

I'd suggest you source a 1999 M/T 5SFE ECU unless the 5SFEs have the ground switch like the 1MZ ECUs to make it a M/T or A/T ECU. Solenoid codes will come up in OBDII 5SFEs. 1999 ECUs are 5 plug and the connectors are the same between the 1MZ and 5SFE (just different pin-outs) in case you need to repair some. Just don't get an immobilizer equipped one if you don't have an immobilizer.

1999 5SFE:

M/T (Federal emissions)

89661-06660
89661-06661
89661-3T510 (Canada spec)
89661-3T511 (Canada spec)

M/T (CA emissions)

89661-06680
89661-06681
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Interesting bit of news there, Jason.MZW20. I actually already have an M/T 5SFE ECU for this swap.
S54 probably would've been better, but I happened to find an S51 in a 97 Camry at a junkyard and was able to pull everything I needed from it so I had no incentive to spend extra money on an S54. Maybe I'll get an LSD for my S51 one of these days off of some MR2.

At the moment, though, I'm in the midst of a swap and am facing difficulty with swapping the shifter, as I put in my question above. Any thoughts on that?
 

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Turbo Snail
Cam A Roo
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To get the linkage to pull through, there are 10mm bolts that hold the rear plate on. You can get to one side of it on the passenger side with a 10mm wrench and then bend the plate out enough to remove / install the linkage.

Notes: I just did the linkage swap recently on my 99 Camry LE

Here's a crappy picture from the Engine Bay. Its setup the same on the inside of the car. Thats why the linkage isnt coming out
 

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Discussion Starter #28
To get the linkage to pull through, there are 10mm bolts that hold the rear plate on. You can get to one side of it on the passenger side with a 10mm wrench and then bend the plate out enough to remove / install the linkage.

Notes: I just did the linkage swap recently on my 99 Camry LE

Here's a crappy picture from the Engine Bay. Its setup the same on the inside of the car. Thats why the linkage isnt coming out
Ahh, I see. So you're saying there are two 10mm bolts on the outside (which I have already removed - very convenient with the engine out of the car :) ), and another set on the inside? I don't remember what it was on the inside when I pulled it off of the donor car.

Do you mean get to the bolt from the passenger side foot well?
 

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I think there's just a set of nuts on the inside. It helps to pull back the carpet and have the front seats removed. I hope you have small hands and a ratcheting wrench!
 

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1MZ powered MR2
1991 MR2
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1,065 Posts
Interesting bit of news there, Jason.MZW20. I actually already have an M/T 5SFE ECU for this swap.
S54 probably would've been better, but I happened to find an S51 in a 97 Camry at a junkyard and was able to pull everything I needed from it so I had no incentive to spend extra money on an S54. Maybe I'll get an LSD for my S51 one of these days off of some MR2.

At the moment, though, I'm in the midst of a swap and am facing difficulty with swapping the shifter, as I put in my question above. Any thoughts on that?
Can't help you with the shifter, but I can tell you that you'd find it easier to get an LSD from a C56 equipped MR2 Spyder as they share the differential assembly with the S-series transaxles. It's essentially identical to the now discontinued TRD helical LSD sold for the S54.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Alright, so I have EVERYTHING installed, everything bolted back together, wheels on the car.

The damn thing won't start now. Everything seems to be connected just fine, dash lights up, but it won't crank - nothing.
"P" on the speedo does show. All I did though was connect the 12v and P lines on the NSS connector.
 

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If it won't even crank, then it's an electrical issue. Somewhere along the lines, you haven't properly fooled the ECU.

You should be able to roll-start it however.
 

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it lives..and spins wheel
97 Avalon
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613 Posts
so you just jumped your 12v to "P" wire?

it MAY have to run through the actual NSS to give correct signal...


check all connectors and grounds.... i had forgotten a ground while doing my swap. it's a rather substantial ground cable that comes from around/under the battery and attaches to the top of the trans behind/below the starter but it's like a 12-10 gauge wire so its easy to spot. but just a that rush rush of putting it back together

and yes. if the IGN is working and fuel and spark are primed. you should be able to in theory clutch start it
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
so you just jumped your 12v to "P" wire?

it MAY have to run through the actual NSS to give correct signal...


check all connectors and grounds.... i had forgotten a ground while doing my swap. it's a rather substantial ground cable that comes from around/under the battery and attaches to the top of the trans behind/below the starter but it's like a 12-10 gauge wire so its easy to spot. but just a that rush rush of putting it back together

and yes. if the IGN is working and fuel and spark are primed. you should be able to in theory clutch start it
Yes, that's exactly what I did, though according to wiring FSM, that connection only goes to the dash PRNL indicator.

So, pardon my stupid question, but where the heck is that "actual NSS"?

I'll swap in the M/T ECU today and connect the switch from the clutch pedal to it - that should completely bypass all the auto tranny stuff and do that trick.

And no, I'm not that excited about push starting it...
 

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it lives..and spins wheel
97 Avalon
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613 Posts
this is what the NSS looks like. it should have been on the front side of your auto trans where the gear selector cable went.


you need this plugged in and "registering park" not just jumping the "P" wire with 12v.


also you check that ground on the trans to your frame? had my swap do the same thing as described from missing that ground wire.... quickly found but apparently enough to cause issues
 

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I just realized I left the NSS on the trans when I sold it. Fuck. Now I've got to figure out a way to complete my swap. Oh well, a broken shoulder is giving me plenty of thinking time....
 

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I kinda figured that'd be my option.

I was hoping there was some way I could actually wire it instead of having to have the NSS involved.

Hell I might do the same thing I did the first swap I did to be able to bypass the Clutch start switch, and just snag a relay wire it to the ignition from the starter and boom.
 

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Turbo Snail
Cam A Roo
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you can wire the NSS harness without actually having the NSS connected. You just have to connect the starter wiring to bypass the NSS involvement. I believe you have to connect the black/white and black wire together. The black/white wire comes from the ignition switch, and the black wire runs to the starter. This is on the 92-96 camry. May be different depending on your vehicle year

heres a diagram of what you need to do.


or you could take the black/white wire , run it to a relay, run a wire from the relay to the Clutch switch, and have the all black wire run to the other wire on the clutch switch.


But, if you have your neutral safety switch Plugged into your harness. you NEED TO ground the entire NSS to the body of the car with a bolt for it to work, and it also has to be in either park or neutral.

The reason why I think its better to have the NSS connected is because down the road, I am going to try to get the cruise control to work and I believe the NSS may be a critical part of the project. But it might not be. I dont really know
 
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