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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't find the TSB but it sounds like Toyota Canada put out a TSB that said some cars were back specced for 5w-20.

I just bought my Camry, it has 101,xxx miles and it was well maintained. I replaced the PCV valve yesterday and I believe it was original. It was not plugged and I blew through it easily.

I live in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan where winters are cold and long. I only live a few minutes from work and most of my driving is a short distance since I only live 10 minutes from town in either direction and the car easily gets up to temp when I'm running errands.

Can I run 5w-20? I plan on replacing my oil every 2,500-3000 miles or every 4 months because of my server driving conditions so I'm not going to run synthetic. I'm thinking PYB or Motorcraft whether I use 5w-20 or 5w-30.

Thanks.
 

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Can I run 5w-20?
I'd be more inclined to run 0w-30, but I don't think you'll find that in a dino oil. The -20 is more for fuel economy, but on my Hyundai the 5w-20 has better shear (psi) rating than the other oils so that's what I chose. Also I live in NC.

Have you looked at the blends? For those cold starts you want as fast as possible flow to the bearings.

As usual no opinion can be reached without used oil analysis (UOA).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd be more inclined to run 0w-30, but I don't think you'll find that in a dino oil. The -20 is more for fuel economy, but on my Hyundai the 5w-20 has better shear (psi) rating than the other oils so that's what I chose. Also I live in NC.

Have you looked at the blends? For those cold starts you want as fast as possible flow to the bearings.

As usual no opinion can be reached without used oil analysis (UOA).
I'm pretty sure 0 weight is only synthetic and would be a good option if I weregoing to run synthetic. I wish I could try Pennzoil Platinum but if I'm going to be changing my oil no later than 3000 miles it won't be worth it.

I'm not hoping to get better fuel economy. I just want to make sure the engine is getting proper lubrication since the 30 weight oil may not be getting warm enough on the 3 minute drive to work.

The Motorcraft oil would be a synthetic blend and the 5w-20 is highly praised. I've read that the latest formulation of PYB has a really good additive package and may even be slightly better than Motorcraft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I only average about 8k-9k miles a year so it might take me three to four months. That's why I figure I'll change my oil every 2,500-3000 miles or every four months.
 

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My main concern would be water build up in the oil, especially when you've driven the 3 minutes to work, 5 days per week in sub zero weather. You may need to do a long trip in between to burn off excess water.

Doing a bunch of UOAs will be expensive, but HERE'S maybe a way to keep track yourself. Not a very sophisticated test but for water it's probably OK.

I've never used it so look at the reviews.
 

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I think all -20 weights are synthetic?

5W-20 IMO is too thin. Maybe 0W-30 or 5W-30 depending on the temperature range. For example, during summer in Phoenix AZ, maybe 10W-30 or 0W-40. Do check out Pennzoil Platinum. Some say the engines lifters click louder, but IMO it's a fine oil, and now Walmart has the High Mileage version too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My main concern would be water build up in the oil, especially when you've driven the 3 minutes to work, 5 days per week in sub zero weather. You may need to do a long trip in between to burn off excess water.

Doing a bunch of UOAs will be expensive, but HERE'S maybe a way to keep track yourself. Not a very sophisticated test but for water it's probably OK.

I've never used it so look at the reviews.
I ended up changing my oil today with Motorcraft syn blend 5w-30. I figured since they're both the same when its cold that I might as well stay with what has been put in and what Yota originally recommended.

The more I analyze my driving situation, the more I think I'll be ok especially if I change my oil regularly. I work 12 hour shifts and only work 3 or 4 days at a time with one scheduled week off a month. I live in a rural area about 10 minutes out of town or longer by time I get to where I'm going. The car gets up to full temp and it stays there as I'm doing my errands, which can be a while. I'm starting to feel more confident that other than my short trips to work, I have enough longer run times. Plus I still get some highway time here and there. Our "big cities" in the UP are really what we consider to be big towns. We don't have 4 lane highways with bumper-to-bumper traffic, it's just general. I'm confident if I keep up on my oil changes and watch the PCV valve, I'll be ok.

I'll have to read reviews on that oil tester. I think I still might send in an oil sample my next oil change and maybe I'll look into the one on Amazon for other oil changes.

I think all -20 weights are synthetic?

5W-20 IMO is too thin. Maybe 0W-30 or 5W-30 depending on the temperature range. For example, during summer in Phoenix AZ, maybe 10W-30 or 0W-40. Do check out Pennzoil Platinum. Some say the engines lifters click louder, but IMO it's a fine oil, and now Walmart has the High Mileage version too.
From what I could gather, 5w-20 was more for better MPG in most cases and maybe just some politics too. I'm not looking for more performance or better MPG, just a good dependable oil to keep the engine clean and running reliably.

I've looked into Platinum and I was very tempted to put it in my care despite my apprehension on my last experience. As far as I can tell the engine has zero leaks and makes no weird noises so I figured why change what's work? With my plan to change my oil more often I'm just not sure if I need to use synthetic. If I had to use synthetic I would without a doubt start with Pennzoil Platinum. I've read nothing but good things about it and it's cleaning promises were tempting for a "sludge" motor. Synthetic from clean natural gas is an interesting concept that is apparently working.

Since I don't see any leaks or hear suspicious sounds coming from the motor i'm going to stick with non-high mileage oil. The main reason is the seal swelling additives. It's too early for me to tell if the motor burns oil but for right now, I don't believe I need HM oil. If I get my oil tested in a few months and it's positive, I might consider Platinum. My next oil change will be around July or August and I'll probably pull the front valve cover off to inspect along with an UOA.

Thanks for the input guys.
 

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5W-20 IMO is too thin.
I used to think so as well (lies my father taught me). My 03 truck was recommended for 5w-20, but I've always used 0w-30. However, in researching oil for my new Hyundai, which also recommends 5w-20, I found testing HERE that showed the -20 Quaker State to be 2nd best superior for shear values - 121,000psi over so called thicker oils, but #1 was 0w-20. All synthetic.

I'm trying the 5w-20 with UOA to prove out. I'd go with the 0w-20 but as I do my own oil changes I wanted to follow factory recommendation to not void the 10 year warranty.

Quaker State makes a 5w-20 conventional.
 

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I think all -20 weights are synthetic?

5W-20 IMO is too thin. Maybe 0W-30 or 5W-30 depending on the temperature range. For example, during summer in Phoenix AZ, maybe 10W-30 or 0W-40. Do check out Pennzoil Platinum. Some say the engines lifters click louder, but IMO it's a fine oil, and now Walmart has the High Mileage version too.
John I don't think so, the bearing tolerance are closer than years past (especially in the cam bearings)when all we had was 30w and later 10w30, I know in the last 10 yrs or so the Ford engines would get excessive wear in the cam bearings with 10w30 Ford required 5w20 and Toyota and Lexus now require 0w20
 

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IMHO (been a long day) all this fretting over oil is nonsense. use what the maker tells you to in the manual or on the oil cap (dino to full synthetic-up to you) these aren't high performance, high horsepower engines. PERIOD. the manufacturer takes into account the climates, Canada, florida, mexico, etc, and has told you what oil to use on the cap. these are also OHV (over head valve) engines but are still timed by the belt with no variance in timing. newer VVT (Variable Valve timing) engines use the oil pressure to adjust the cam depending on load and oil pressure, making the viscosity that more important. actually the whole timing system runs on oil pressure, the timing chain tensioners as well. I'm not going to argue on oil or filters, just stating I think your reading to much into a simple oil change. you also don't need to get your oil tested unless you want to run it longer than what has been pounded into your head (3 months/3000 miles) most oils you can almost double that if you want. just my .$02. let the arguments begin. good luck
 

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That's most true but not in every case. The 2AZ has some intake cam bearings with smaller clearances, but the rest are about the same, with the same max allowed still at 3 mils. 5S has a tighter clearance range on the crank in general (the two engines are spec'ed differently, for example 5S has a different spec for bearing #3 whereas IIRC 2AZ doesn't). So sure with the 2AZ I'd still stick with 0W and 5W but not going to 10W, but will be willing to use 0W/5W-30 instead of the -20. This has worked for some members to quiet down the engine and reduce oil consumption. The 2AZ is still considered a sludge monster with the reduced 5000 mile oil change interval, unless a TSB revised that, however with the -20 synthetics I doubt that's the same level of problem as the 5S/1MZ.

That said, in OP's case, back spec'ing 5W-/10W-30 down to 5W-20 for the 1MZ, similar to back spec'ing the thin Dexron VI for the old thicker Dexron III transmissions is just something that I wouldn't want to do. But others have done well with Valvoline DexMerc MaxLife ATF. So each to his own.

In OP's case, I agree that whatever he was doing has worked well for him. So if he doesn't want to try synthetic with a Motorcraft FL400s/PureOne 20195, then staying with what works is great too.

John I don't think so, the bearing tolerance are closer than years past (especially in the cam bearings)when all we had was 30w and later 10w30, I know in the last 10 yrs or so the Ford engines would get excessive wear in the cam bearings with 10w30 Ford required 5w20 and Toyota and Lexus now require 0w20
 

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IMHO (been a long day) all this fretting over oil is nonsense. use what the maker tells you to in the manual or on the oil cap (dino to full synthetic-up to you) these aren't high performance, high horsepower engines. PERIOD. the manufacturer takes into account the climates, Canada, florida, mexico, etc, and has told you what oil to use on the cap. these are also OHV (over head valve) engines but are still timed by the belt with no variance in timing. newer VVT (Variable Valve timing) engines use the oil pressure to adjust the cam depending on load and oil pressure, making the viscosity that more important. actually the whole timing system runs on oil pressure, the timing chain tensioners as well. I'm not going to argue on oil or filters, just stating I think your reading to much into a simple oil change. you also don't need to get your oil tested unless you want to run it longer than what has been pounded into your head (3 months/3000 miles) most oils you can almost double that if you want. just my .$02. let the arguments begin. good luck
I agree, in that this discussion is pretty academic. If I were a lazier man I'd use most grades of oil, up or down a bit in thickness, whatever was cheapest; these are not high-performance engines, yeah.

Your post makes it seems like OHV is the opposite of VVT. These are overhead-valve, but more specifically, both the 5S and 1MZ are overhead-cam engines, and the 1MZ comes in a VVT variant (ES300, later Camrys and Avalons, Sienna). Cam-in-block/pushrod/classic OHV engines that have VVT do exist (modern Hemis come to mind).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I kept it simple, just went with MC syn blend 5w-30 and a Wix taurus filter 51516XP. I didn't see the non-XP version and I can afford the extra $4. It looks like the larger filter increases the oil capacity by about 6 ounces. Not much but it certainly doesn't hurt. The only reason I got picky about oil, and read waaaaay t0o much about it, was because the 1MZ-FE is known for sludge. That's it. Throw my short tripping and cold winters into the scenario and I just wanted to make sure I was doing what I could to keep the engine reliable and clean.
 

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all this fretting over oil is nonsense.
I agree because that's the reason I stopped visiting the BITOG site - no one there could agree anyway, not even the "experts".

But this situation is different, we're not disputing so much the exact grade/type but the OPs driving conditions of 3 minutes to work in sub zero temps and what that will do to the engine and oil.

What he really needs to do is change the driving, not worry about the oil. But he's stuck with job commitments and where he lives.
 

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It looks like the larger filter increases the oil capacity by about 6 ounces. Not much but it certainly doesn't hurt.
If the filter is vertical up mount, it won't hurt, but any position where the oil will drain from the filter overnight will mean a longer time to get your oil pressure up at start - especially in cold weather.
 

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So next time just stick with a regular filter?
Greetings,

The Wix XP filter has a silicone anti-drain back valve, to prevent dry start - you should be all set w/ that filter, FYI.

(Like your choices on oil and filter, BTW - have used both w/o any issues on the '08 v6 Taurus here.)
 

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So next time just stick with a regular filter?
Yes.

The Wix XP filter has a silicone anti-drain back valve, to prevent dry start - you should be all set w/ that filter, FYI.
The drain back valves do not work - any of them. Maybe for a short time, but over night the oil drains back. If you've ever done an oil change after the car has sat for a while did you not wonder why the oil does not drain out of the filter when removed?
 

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Yes.



The drain back valves do not work - any of them. Maybe for a short time, but over night the oil drains back. If you've ever done an oil change after the car has sat for a while did you not wonder why the oil does not drain out of the filter when removed?
Honestly Still, it's been so long since I've done an OCI with letting the car sit overnight to let the filter drain (I normally do an OCI on a warm motor, have for years) I can't say.

But it makes sense, especially on a vertical filter stand arrangement.
 
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