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1994 Corolla DX
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Discussion Starter #21
And I will say, even @DannoXYZ pointed out years ago that the stupid oil pan is a pain to remove:

Removing and re-installing oil pan is the difficult part.
It would seem like such a straightforward thing to do. And indeed, the lower pan is. The upper though, grrr....
 

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1997 Corolla
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Yeah no kidding. I'm now super nervous I'll put all this back together only to find out it was the rear main seal leaking all along, just that the oil was finding its way to the seams of the oil pan, making it seem as if those were the areas leaking.
I'm guessing that a leaking rear main would leave oil residues in other places where a leaking oil pan gasket wouldn't reach.
I've suffered a leaking rear main seal in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle, and it made a freaking mess under the car, all the way back to the rear axle assembly.

Hopefully your fears are unfounded.

I wonder how the 4A pan compares.
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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Discussion Starter #23
I'm guessing that a leaking rear main would leave oil residues in other places where a leaking oil pan gasket wouldn't reach.
I've suffered a leaking rear main seal in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle, and it made a freaking mess under the car, all the way back to the rear axle assembly.

Hopefully your fears are unfounded.
Yeah I'll treat this as a learning experience and an opportunity to remove gunk even if I still end up finding the rear main seal is leaking.

I wonder how the 4A pan compares.
From the same old thread:

Still easier than HUGE oil pan on the 1.6l engines. Definitely have to remove crossmember to remove the pan on those.
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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Discussion Starter #24
Back about 10 years ago, not too long after we'd given up on the city life and moved to the burbs and I had my own garage, I made the decision to start wrenching on our cars. Because we came from a life of apartment rental prior, I had zero tools. So I bought a metric socket set. Great, except it was a 12 point socket set. What a noob mistake!!! I thought, as I quickly purchased a new set of 6-sided sockets that I've turned to ever since. An indeed in the decade since then I had always thought of the 12 point socket set as a dumb purchase.... until this moment.

Because today, as I received my Plastigage strip and assembly lube, all ready to start measuring the connector rod bearing clearance, I proudly brought the 12-point socket out from the back of a drawer. It was finally going to have a legit use - the con-rod nuts are 12-point!!!

So I grabbed the set and a ratchet, dove under the car, and started to figure out which socket size I needed. 10 mm? Nope, too small. 14 mm? Nope, too big. Ah, 12 mm. Wait, WHERE IS THE 12 MM SOCKET? GONE!!

Yep, so all my pride in vain, I had to go and order an individual 12 point 12 mm socket. It'll come on Saturday. Until then I'll wallow in self-pity.
 

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12mm and a half inch are VERY close in size, in case you're itchin' to get on with it.

And did you look everywhere? It might've gotten put away in the wrong place, like in another socket set?
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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Discussion Starter #26
I don’t have a standard size 12 point set. Besides - I’d rather not risk anything with critical engine internals.

I looked through all the sets in all the drawers. No luck. No big deal though, just very annoying and ironic at the same time.
 

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12mm and a half inch are VERY close in size, in case you're itchin' to get on with it.
NOOOOOO! Half inch is 12.7mm. I'm sure 94RollaDad doesn't want to round a rod bearing cap bolt. He's already wallowing enough.

94RollaDad, make sure you leave a note in the tool set saying it's missing a 12mm 12-point socket. Maybe someday a long time from now after you die someone cleaning out your house will find the missing socket and enjoy a brief moment of satisfaction reuniting it with the set.
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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Discussion Starter #28
Haha good suggestion on the note :)

And yeah I wouldn’t touch engine internals with incorrect tools. You have to give Pete some MacGyver points for the suggestion though!
 

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He would get the MacGyver points for figuring out how to remove the stripped bolt after it's rounded.
 

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12.7mm? I din't know it was that off.

Maybe one of your neighbors has a metric set?
 

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Since the 1960s one inch is defined to be exactly 25.4mm.
 

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5/32" = 3.96875mm (0.78%)
5/16" = 7.9375mm (0.78%)
7/16" = 11.1125mm (1.02%)
3/4" = 19.05mm (0.26%)
1-1/16" = 26.9875mm (0.046%)

The percent difference from the closest mm size is in parentheses.

19mm is close enough to 3/4" that I have no problem using either wrench on either size. And this is a common size on Toyotas.

1-1/16" is close to 27" but not very many fastener this size on Toyotas, but I think there are a few.

The first 3 you would feel noticeable looseness trying to use the bigger wrench on the small fastener.
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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Discussion Starter #34
Wow, my most used tool is a very old set of Craftsman 12 point wrenches. What's wrong with them?
They're known to round bolt heads due to their relative lack of surface to grip vs. a 6-sided socket. Seems like your luck (or lack thereof) with rounding bolt heads is pertaining to allen heads though :)
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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Discussion Starter #36
Standard connecting rod oil clearance 7A-FE: 0.020 - 0.044 mm
Limit: 0.08 mm

Mine has ~160k miles on it. On cylinder #4 (only one I've checked so far) I measured closest to the 0.038 reading on the Plastigage. Looks like it's slightly higher, 0.040 perhaps?

I'll replace the bearings with some Taiho R714A-STD that are arriving today. This is the OE bearing from the OE manufacturer. I tried the Toyota parts catalog but they only sell under size bearings (used if you have machined the crank journal due to damage).

I'll measure the other cylinders as well to see if there's any variance. But overall I'll say NOT BAD for 160k, of which 120k is with conventional oil. Still within spec! You can see some signs of bearing wear on the photos below but it looks pretty good to my untrained eye.







 

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Wow, you're really digging into the bowels of the engine! I like seeing those locating pins on the connecting rod, which prevent putting on the cap backwards!
 

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Are you checking the new bearings as well? Probably wouldn't be a bad idear...

I wonder if you'll notice any difference in how it runs afterward. My guess is that you won't, but it's possible that you might notice a slight decrease in power if they go on there tight, but the power will come back as the new bearings wear in.

Nice work!!!
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks! Yeah I'll measure the new ones too - would be pretty awful to realize they're out of spec by way of a spun bearing after it's all assembled...
 

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If the standard is 0.020-0.044mm then they could have been 0.040mm from the factory, right? No wear over 160k miles.
 
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