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1997 Corolla
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5,421 Posts
Ok I finished everything and fired the engine up! Started right away (it's been sitting for what - 6 weeks now?)! Ran smoothly. Sigh of relief! I'll probably have to play with belt tension a bit as the accessory belts had a bit of a squeal.
Hell yeah brother! That's a pretty big job!
I'd rather have them too loose than too tight! I like to sneak up on the spot where they stop squealing.


I'd think you'd need to separate the transmission to get to the crankshaft/main bearings.


On Wes's video, he also said that the Toyota tech or parts guy told him that when the dealer does a piston job on one of those engines, that all they replace is the four pistons and the necessary gaskets. They don't even bother with the rod bearings or a new timing chain.
Those particular RAV4s develop an oil consumption problem, so Toyota extended the warranty on them, and compiled a kit consisting of all the necessary parts, to sell to the dealers who install them as a warranty job. He said that they seemed to think that he was the first actual customer to buy one of those kits, at least from that dealership - if not in the whole country. They weren't sure how to sell it to him at first, because dealerships always end up doing that job.
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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4,344 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
Yeah to be honest the bearing replacement didn't seem necessary. On the other hand - I was already in there, I didn't know what to expect, and it was good even just to confirm the minimal wear. And now I'm good for the next 200k, haha. Given it took us 26 years with this car to get to 160k it should... be a while.
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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4,344 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
Finished up the install of the front brake calipers I rebuilt yesterday. Took it for a test drive. Didn’t manage to bleed all the air out so had to take the front wheels off again and bleed some more. Also had to retighten the brake lines (I replaced the flex line too) - it’s crazy how much you have to tighten those 10mm flare nuts.

Fixed the alternator belt squeal. I now have an AC belt squeal when the engine is hot instead. So need to tighten that a bit more too.

Other than that the engine is smooth as butter. No leaks.... yet.
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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4,344 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
Adjusted the AC belt and all is well. It will be a few months until next project - timing belt due next spring. But first - timing belt for the Outback.
 

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1997 Corolla
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5,421 Posts
Will you be documenting your work on the Subie?

I usually leave the wheels on to bleed the brakes, and just crank the fronts to either side to allow access.
 

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1997 Corolla
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4,141 Posts
I agree. No need to take the wheels off to bleed.

And after tightening the brake hoses wrap the calipers in some plastic then push the brake pedal twice as hard as you would need to lock up the wheels. This is to test for leaks. The plastic will prevent brake fluid from getting on rubber and plastic parts (like CV boot) if there is a leak.
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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4,344 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
I’ve done the bleeding with the wheels on before. But with the impact gun, garage jack, torque wrench and jack stands all right there it took me a couple minutes more and it was worth it. I wanted to confirm no leaks. :)

I don’t think I’ll be documenting the Subie timing belt. The EJ25 timing belt job has been well documented already so not much for me to add. I read through the FSM chapter on it yesterday. Interestingly it calls for lubricating the crank bolt with engine oil, torquing to 30 some ft/lbs and then an additional 60 degrees. I guess I’ll have a use for my new torque angle dial after all!
 

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1995 Toyota Corolla
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1,565 Posts
Interestingly it calls for lubricating the crank bolt with engine oil, torquing to 30 some ft/lbs and then an additional 60 degrees. I guess I’ll have a use for my new torque angle dial after all!
Interesting. I always have trouble tightening the crank pulley bolt with a torque wrench, I've only been able to do it once. The bolts I use for the pulley holder always seem to bend. I've just been using an impact wrench to make it tight, marking the bolt head with some paint, and seeing if the bolt moves after some driving.
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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4,344 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
I bought some high tensile bolts for my pulley holder for that purpose. No issues since I switched to those. Like you I had bent bolts prior to the switch.
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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4,344 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
Hah, I have oil back on the bottom lip of the upper oil pan. No way it's the oil pan leaking as I was super careful with the RTV and assembly. So.... rear.... main.... seal. ATP-205, anyone? :)
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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4,344 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Yeah. Seems like a lot of effort for a small leak though! My perfectionist tendencies are working against me though as I’m intrigued by the fix. Don’t the axles need to come off and all?
 

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1996 Toyota Corolla
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10,267 Posts
I did the work on a manual MR2, same transverse setup but of course I've never removed an automatic. But I learned my lesson: If you're removing a transmission, get some axle seals. The removal and insertion of axles might cause them to leak after a lot of miles. Easy install.

Axles have to be removed, at least from one end. Maybe you can keep them in the trans.
 

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Axles have to be removed, at least from one end. Maybe you can keep them in the trans.
Damned good idea! I never thought of that, and I'm always looking for a shortcut...
 

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1996 Toyota Corolla
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10,267 Posts
The MR2's driver's side axle is notorious for getting stuck. So so difficult to get out. So a lot of people just leave it in the transmission and drop the trans with the floppy axle hanging off. Pass side has to come out as it is a solid shaft going through a carrier bearing. So leaving an axle in is pretty common, as long as your boots are good.
 

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Token Aussie
1998 AE102, 2018 ZRE182
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2,115 Posts
The MR2's driver's side axle is notorious for getting stuck. So so difficult to get out
Tell me about it...


Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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4,344 Posts
Discussion Starter #78
The FSM also lists exhaust; engine brace and crossmember in need of removal to drop the transmission. Really?
 
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