Well happy campers. I have debated this engine build for quite a while, weighing it against a 20V blacktop, 4A-GZE and even a 5S-FE.
My reason for wanting to do a swap is mainly to get more bottom end torque.
The 5S-FE has all the power and torque I want, but that swap is more work, involving custom engine mounts and there is a weight penalty that might upset the cars handling. Not good for autocross.
The 4A-GZE has the torque and power without the weight penalty, drops right in, but I have not been able to find a 2nd generation version.
The 20V has power, but lacks the bottom end torque that I want, and parts availability could be a problem.
The 7A-GE should give me the torque I want with enough horse power for my style of driving, plus parts are readily available.
I have aquired a 7A, and started tearing it down to inspect and recondition the block, before starting the build. I was hoping to take my time and do it right, but due to unforseen circumstances, I need to jump to it.....................My 4A-GE seems to be in the process of up-chucking a rod.
Driving to work this morning, it started rattling like the starter had come loose and was beating between the block and the exhaust manifold. That was not it. The sound is comming from deep inside the block, about the area of #2 rod. I had to have AAA tow the car home this evening, fearing that driving it would do more damage than has already happened.
I was planning to use a small port head and pistons, but I have not yet been able to find a head for a reasonable price.
With the current situation, I need to go ahead with the build using my bigport head.
I already have:
Light weight flywheel (for a SR-5/4A-FE).
OBX adjustable timing gears.
7A-FE gearbox
The stuff I still need to get:
Small port pistons.
High tensile rod end bolts.
Porsche 944 timing belt.
I was hoping to get the 4A-GE dynoed before I did the swap, so I would have a baseline to compare the new engine to. ............ So much for that idea!!!
My reason for wanting to do a swap is mainly to get more bottom end torque.
The 5S-FE has all the power and torque I want, but that swap is more work, involving custom engine mounts and there is a weight penalty that might upset the cars handling. Not good for autocross.
The 4A-GZE has the torque and power without the weight penalty, drops right in, but I have not been able to find a 2nd generation version.
The 20V has power, but lacks the bottom end torque that I want, and parts availability could be a problem.
The 7A-GE should give me the torque I want with enough horse power for my style of driving, plus parts are readily available.
I have aquired a 7A, and started tearing it down to inspect and recondition the block, before starting the build. I was hoping to take my time and do it right, but due to unforseen circumstances, I need to jump to it.....................My 4A-GE seems to be in the process of up-chucking a rod.
Driving to work this morning, it started rattling like the starter had come loose and was beating between the block and the exhaust manifold. That was not it. The sound is comming from deep inside the block, about the area of #2 rod. I had to have AAA tow the car home this evening, fearing that driving it would do more damage than has already happened.
I was planning to use a small port head and pistons, but I have not yet been able to find a head for a reasonable price.
With the current situation, I need to go ahead with the build using my bigport head.
I already have:
Light weight flywheel (for a SR-5/4A-FE).
OBX adjustable timing gears.
7A-FE gearbox
The stuff I still need to get:
Small port pistons.
High tensile rod end bolts.
Porsche 944 timing belt.
I was hoping to get the 4A-GE dynoed before I did the swap, so I would have a baseline to compare the new engine to. ............ So much for that idea!!!