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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys i just did a head gasket on my 86 camry and i also took the cam out of the housing since i put in a new cam seal and o-ring and reassemble with assemble lube. the question i have is i failed to mark were the dowel pin on the cam sprocket goes. my cam sprocket has a slot and a hole that the dowel can go in. I have the dowel in the hole and i can't get the engine to start it just sputers. think i have the cam sprocket upside down? or have another issue? weak fire? i know i got fuel to the rail cause i forgot to reconnect the return line, and also loosen the main line a little and fuel cam out. Any help would be great!

Update: I went a head and flipped it and still can't get the car to start. I went a head and got a new coil i'm going to install Monday so wish me luck :) Also another question real fast, Will the car start if the oxygen sensor is not connected? my connector that plugs into the sensor broke off and i haven't fixed it yet since the wire broke off so close to the connector, I'll also fix that Monday.
 

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The O-2 sensor is not needed. it will run w/o it.

Did you have a manual? if so, go back to square one and make sure that all of the timing marks are lined up

But, before you do that....get a small amount of gas and pour it into the intake, if lack of gas is the problem, then it should fire up. Starting fluid will do the same trick.

Check it for spark, if so, then swap the plug wires, on the cap 180 degrees.

Why are you changing the coil?

My guess is that if you look at the gear, real close, that there are wear marks on it. You may need more light and magnification.
 

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Hey guys i just did a head gasket on my 86 camry and i also took the cam out of the housing since i put in a new cam seal and o-ring and reassemble with assemble lube. the question i have is i failed to mark were the dowel pin on the cam sprocket goes. my cam sprocket has a slot and a hole that the dowel can go in. I have the dowel in the hole and i can't get the engine to start it just sputers. think i have the cam sprocket upside down? or have another issue? weak fire? i know i got fuel to the rail cause i forgot to reconnect the return line, and also loosen the main line a little and fuel cam out. Any help would be great!

Update: I went a head and flipped it and still can't get the car to start. I went a head and got a new coil i'm going to install Monday so wish me luck :) Also another question real fast, Will the car start if the oxygen sensor is not connected? my connector that plugs into the sensor broke off and i haven't fixed it yet since the wire broke off so close to the connector, I'll also fix that Monday.
check your timing make sure everything is at top dead center and if the bottom crank marks and the cam marks don't line up then the timing is whats causing it. i had a similar problem but i had jumped my timing belt while racing and it did the same thing it would want to start but wouldn't say running. hope this helped if you not then post some more info and ill be happy to help try and get the problem fixed.
 

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dear alien99 the O2 sensor being out won't cause the car to not run but it won't run like it is supposed to because then the computer isn't getting a signal and then can't tell the mass air flow sensor to open more or less. but yes your right if you did drive with out the O2 sensor then it would effect the performance and the gas mileage.
 

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1990 Toyota Camry DX
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Cam timing sequence from Chilton Manual

1c-Ltc And 2cl-TC Engines - Single Overhead Cam

Remove the right hand front wheel.

Remove the fender apron seal.

Remove the windshield washer and radiator reservoir tanks.
Disconnect and label all vacuum hoses, cables, electrical wiring and remove the cruise control actuator and bracket.

Remove the power steering pump with bracket.

Remove the alternator and alternator bracket.

Undo the three clips, remove the five bolts and remove the upper (No. 2) timing belt cover and gasket.

Align the line mark of the camshaft pulley with the top end of the cylinder head by turning the crankshaft pulley bolt CLOCKWISE.

Using a spanner wrench to hold the crankshaft pulley stationary, remove the pulley set bolt and plate washer.

Remove the five bolts and remove the No. 1 timing belt cover and gasket.
Using a small prybar or similar tool, remove the tension spring. The use of any tool that will pinch the spring is NOT recommended.

Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley mounting bolt.

If the timing belt is to be reused, draw a directional arrow on the belt in the direction of normal engine rotation and place match marks on the belt and the camshaft, crankshaft and injection pump pulleys.

If the timing belt is to be reused, place matchmarks on the belt and the camshaft, crankshaft and injection pump pulleys

Remove the timing belt.

Using a spanner wrench to hold the camshaft pulley, remove the setbolt.
Install a two-armed pulled and remove the camshaft pulley. Be careful, the pulley may spring off so don't drop it!

Remove the No. 1 idler pulley.

Using a spanner wrench to hold the injection pump drive pulley, remove the setbolt. Install a two-armed pulled and remove the drive pulley. Be careful, the pulley may spring off so don't drop it!

Remove the No. 2 idler pulley.

Using a gear pulled, remove the crankshaft timing pulley.

To install:

Using a driver and hammer, carefully drive the crankshaft timing pulley into position.

Install the No. 2 idler pulley, tighten the bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).

Slide the injection pump drive pulley over the pump key and tighten the bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). Do NOT use an impact wrench.

Install the No. 1 idler pulley and finger tighten the mount bolt to the extent that the idler pulley is free.

Install the pulley guide bolt, then tighten the bolt to 65 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Be sure the idler pulley bracket can move left to right by hand.

Align the camshaft knock pin with the camshaft timing pulley and slide the pulley onto the shaft. Install the setbolt and plate washer and tighten it to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).

WARNING

Avoid turning the camshaft or the valves may hit the pistons.
The engine should be completely cold prior to timing belt installation.
Align the mark of the camshaft pulley with the top end of the cylinder head. DO NOT align the cylinder head cover with the boss.

Align the grooves of the crankshaft timing pulley and the oil pump.

Align the cavity of the injection pump drive pulley with the line mark on the water pump.

Hold the injection pump drive pulley in place until the timing belt is completely installed.

Install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.

If the OLD timing belt is being installed make sure the direction arrow is facing in the direction of engine rotation an that the match marks made on the belt and timing pulleys are properly aligned. If a NEW belt is being installed, install the belt so that the numbers and letters can be read from the rear end of the engine.

Hold the injection pump pulley still with a wrench and install the timing belt onto the pulley. The timing belt should be evenly meshed with the pulley and should NOT be loose.

Install the timing belt onto the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. The timing belt should be evenly meshed with the pulley and should NOT be loose.

Install the timing belt onto the No. 2 idler and oil pump pulleys. The timing belt should be evenly meshed with the pulley and should NOT be loose. Be sure the belt is NOT twisted or too tight.

Install the tension spring. Do NOT pinch the tension spring with pliers.
Turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE two complete revolutions from TDC to TDC.

Timing pulley alignment

Visually check that each pulley is aligned with its timing mark. If the marks do NOT align, remove the belt and reinstall it.

Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). DO NOT move the idler pulley bracket while tightening the set bolt.

Install the right hand engine mounting bracket with the retaining bolts. Tighten the 10mm bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm) and the 12mm bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). If the vehicle is equipped with power steering and/or air conditioning, do NOT install the 12mm bolts.

Install the right hand mounting insulator.

Lower the engine.

Install the timing belt guide. Make sure that the cup is facing outward.

Install the upper (No. 1) timing belt cover with the new gasket. Install and tighten the five bolts.

Drive the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft.

Hold the crankshaft pulley stationary with the same tool used during removal and install the set bolt and plate washer. Tighten the set bolt to 72 ft. lbs. (98 Nm).

Install the lower timing belt cover and new gasket with the three clips and five bolts.

Install the alternator and alternator bracket. Adjust the belt tension.

Install the power steering pump and adjust the drive belt tension.

Install the cruise control actuator and bracket. Connect the harness, cables and vacuum hoses.

Check and adjust the injection timing.

Install the fender apron seal.

Install the right front wheel.

Check and adjust the engine idle and maximum speeds.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
'89 Camry Alltrac
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^^^^ That is for the diesel motor(s)...


-Charlie
 

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1990 Toyota Camry DX
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^^^^ That is for the diesel motor(s)...


-Charlie


oops...here s the correct info


2S-FE, 3S-FE & 5S-FE Engines


  • Remove the timing belt covers as previously detailed.
  • Raise the engine just enough to remove the weight from the engine mount on the right side.
  • Remove the thru-bolt, two nuts, and right hand mounting insulator.
  • Remove the retaining bolts and remove the right hand mounting bracket (from the side the alternator was removed from).
  • Remove the timing belt and timing belt guide. If the timing belt is to be reused, draw a directional arrow on the timing belt in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) and place matchmarks on the timing belt and crankshaft gear.
  • Remove the bolt retaining the No. 1 idler pulley and tension spring.
  • Remove the No. 2 idler pulley.
  • Remove the crankshaft timing gear , if it can NOT be removed by hand, use two flat bladed tools to pry it off. Make sure to position shop rags to prevent damages to the components.
  • Remove the nut retaining the oil pump pulley.
To install:

  • Align the cutouts of the oil pump pulley and shaft, and slide the pulley on. Retain the pulley while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
  • Align the crankshaft timing pulley set key with the key groove of the crankshaft pulley, then slide the pulley on.
  • Install the No. 2 idler pulley with the bolt and tighten to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Be sure the pulley moves smoothly.
Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it clean.

  • Temporarily install the No. 1 idler pulley with the retaining bolt. Hint: use a 1.65 inch (42mm) bolt in length. Do NOT tighten the bolt yet. Install the tension spring. Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
  • Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump, No. 2 idler and water pump pulleys.
If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.

  • Install the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover and new gasket with the four bolts.
  • Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  • On 2S-ELC engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
  • Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.
  • On 2S-ELC/USA engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley E mark side. On 2S-ELC/Canadian engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt.
On 2S-ELC engines, make sure that the Matchmark on the oil seal retainer and center hole of the small hole on the camshaft timing pulley are aligned.

  • Using the removal tool to hold the pulley stationary, install and tighten the pulley set bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 2S-ELC and the 3S-FE. On the 5S-FE, tighten the set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  • On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
  • Install the timing belt and check the valve timing as follows:
    1. Align the matchmarks that you made previously, and install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.
    2. Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt 1/2 turn.
    3. Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions TDC to TDC. ALWAYS turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. Check that the pulleys are still in alignment with the timing marks.
    4. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
    5. Make sure there is belt tension between the crankshaft and camshaft timing pulleys.
  • Install the upper (No. 2) timing cover with a new gasket(s). On the 5S-FE, align the two clamps for the engine wiring harness with the cover mounting bolts.
  • Install the spark plugs.
  • Install the right mounting insulator with bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm), insulator nuts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and thru-bolt to 52 ft. lbs. (71 Nm). On the 5S-FE, install the No. 2 engine mount bracket and tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm); install the control rod and tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
  • Lower the engine.
  • On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, install the alternator and alternator bracket. On 2S-ELC engines, install the power steering reservoir tank.
  • Install the drive belt and adjust the tension.
  • Install the cruise control actuator with bracket.
  • Install the fender apron seal and right engine under cover.
  • Install the right front wheel.
 
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