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1991 Corolla DLX 4AFE, 1994 Camry LE 5SFE, 1995 Avalon XLS 1MZFE, 2004 Sienna XLE/LTD, 2011 Camry LE
How did you get the lense and the housing separated to do the LED mod? My front clearance lamps have always had condensation and most recently filled with water. Now they're all dirty and look like crap, but I'd like to clean and reseal. I tried prying them apart but only managed to snap off a corner. Any suggestions to separating the two halves? They seem so close to releasing, and I'm sure I've got all the screws out. Is there some adhesive that needs to be heated up maybe?The DRLs were taken apart and replaced with double stacked led ribbons. The lenses were polished and housing was painted satin black.
Well I was unsuccessful in my attempt to split the lens from the housing. That 30 year old adhesive held on like nothing I've ever seen before! It would just not release and was still very sticky. I'm in awe that water even managed to get inside.These are the screws holding on the lens. the plastic clips like to break but don't let that scare you, the new adhesive will hold it all together nicely. I used the cardboard box method to heat the entire assembly and used this kit to polish the lens while it was off taken apart. A flathead screw driver took most of the old adhesive out of the grooves of the housing and rolling the butyl between your fingers helps. I probably should have done a writeup because I get asked the same questions all the time.
You didn't open up the stock bigport prior to your previous turbo build right? Compression was probably a bit high for a turbo build unless you were real careful with your tuning and timing. The smallport needs 91 Octane, but I've heard that the bigport may also ping/detonate on 87 if the EGR stuff is removed.1/7/22 - Pulled the engine and transmission out. Took the head off the block and found signs of detonation. I have a replacement GZE long block and head that will be going off to the machine shop.
that piston is toast, its heavily pitted on the edges and has a small chunk missing from the edge.im pretty sure this is from detonation from possible bad fuel, tune, high compression ratio or a combination of them all. the block was rebuilt before so im not going that route again. the head needs machining and from the looks of it, it needs a GOOD skimming to get it all flat. the bottom end was rebuilt and probably had crappy aftermarket oversized pistons. not worth rebuilding for me since I need lower compression ratio for turbo.it's just carbon bulit up, once cleaned the pistons will look as good as new, the head surface doesn't look bad, just some cleaning.
i thought the 88-91 gts use the c52 trans, and the c56 also fit? what is the different in gear ratios between the 2?2/13/22 – I got my hands on a C56 for a decent price. I was told all the gears work and don’t grind. I gave it a good cleaning with aluminum wheel cleaner and a wire brush on a drill. I sprayed it down with Alumi-Blast which is made by Eastwood. It has an excellent finish and adheres to the casing without drips. I am impressed by this product.
I also sprayed some other parts as well to match the trans.
2/26/22 – One of the most annoying things I had to do was remove and clean all the power steering lines. They were disgusting. Replacements are non-existent and I liked the way the engine bay looked without all the lines. So the logical thing to do would be to google alternatives and found this build tread. You guys should definetly read this tread, it’s freakin awesome. He used an Electric Power Assist Steering (EPAS) system. I also found this tread which was helpful since it was an AE92/95.
After a short course on Youtube Academy I hit up the local LKQ PYP and snagged a steering column off a 2007 prius. Yet another fine addition of prius parts on my corolla. I paid $140 inc. taxes and fees for a steering column, control box, and pigtails. Here is the prius column (left) and the stock column (right) side by side.
It looked close enough to work so I started cutting and welding bits until I ended up with this.
I was able to tuck the motor upwards into a void under the dash and had to bend the gas pedal a bit to clear the motor. Hooked up my battery directly to the wires on the control box and was able to turn the wheels by hand. So far I am very impressed with the results.
|1st||2nd||3rd||4th||5th||Reverse||Final||Differential Gear Ratio|
hey bro, im having some problem with my speedometer being eratic, the rpm working fine but the speed needle is acting up, recently everytime i start the car, it took around 10 minutes for the speed needle to start working properly. since u got ur trans out in the open, can u tell where the speed sensor located? i tried to look through a bunch of vacum line and the air box is in the way so i couldn't locate it. and if u could took a pic . thanks in advance.the c52 and c56 have identical casings as far as I can see when compared side by side. the only difference externally was the plastic cover for the cv axle on the c56 output. that same cover is made of metal on the c52. they both have the same part number stamped on them. if anyone has any info on determining the difference between c52 and c56 externally, id love to hear it... from the info i found on line they are identical.
the 3rd and 4th and final gears are slightly different between the c52 and c56. other than that they are identical.
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Reverse Final Differential Gear Ratio 3.166 1.904 1.310 0.969 0.815 3.250 4.058 3.722
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Reverse Final 3.166 1.904 1.392 1.031 0.815 3.250 4.312
hey bro, im having some problem with my speedometer being eratic, the rpm working fine but the speed needle is acting up, recently everytime i start the car, it took around 10 minutes for the speed needle to start working properly. since u got ur trans out in the open, can u tell where the speed sensor located? i tried to look through a bunch of vacum line and the air box is in the way so i couldn't locate it. and if u could took a pic . thanks in advance.