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88 4AGTE GTS-T

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This is my new build thread.
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1991 Toyota Corolla GT-S
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Just reading through your old thread (here, for those interested: Chris' 1989 AE92 Corolla GTS Build Thread) and had a question on the clearance/parking lamps. They look pretty sharp!

The DRLs were taken apart and replaced with double stacked led ribbons. The lenses were polished and housing was painted satin black.
How did you get the lense and the housing separated to do the LED mod? My front clearance lamps have always had condensation and most recently filled with water. Now they're all dirty and look like crap, but I'd like to clean and reseal. I tried prying them apart but only managed to snap off a corner. Any suggestions to separating the two halves? They seem so close to releasing, and I'm sure I've got all the screws out. Is there some adhesive that needs to be heated up maybe?
Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Grille Automotive lighting Automotive tire
 

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01 camry ce
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
there are some screws behind the lens, make sure to take them out and use a heat gun to pry the lens apart. the black plastic trim is brittle from old age so the crack easily. once you get the lens to seperate a little bit it should come apart fairly easily. i painted the reflective housing black and used butyl to put it back together. make sure to coean the old adhesive out of the grooves and dont use too much butyl or it wont go back together properly. good luck. ill have build pictures posted up soon.
 

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1991 Toyota Corolla GT-S
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Cheers! I'll have to give it another go, this time with my heat gun. I was pretty sure I got all the screws but the adhesive didn't seem to want to release.
 
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01 camry ce
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
These are the screws holding on the lens. the plastic clips like to break but don't let that scare you, the new adhesive will hold it all together nicely. I used the cardboard box method to heat the entire assembly and used this kit to polish the lens while it was off taken apart. A flathead screw driver took most of the old adhesive out of the grooves of the housing and rolling the butyl between your fingers helps. I probably should have done a writeup because I get asked the same questions all the time.
 

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1991 Toyota Corolla GT-S
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These are the screws holding on the lens. the plastic clips like to break but don't let that scare you, the new adhesive will hold it all together nicely. I used the cardboard box method to heat the entire assembly and used this kit to polish the lens while it was off taken apart. A flathead screw driver took most of the old adhesive out of the grooves of the housing and rolling the butyl between your fingers helps. I probably should have done a writeup because I get asked the same questions all the time.
Well I was unsuccessful in my attempt to split the lens from the housing. That 30 year old adhesive held on like nothing I've ever seen before! It would just not release and was still very sticky. I'm in awe that water even managed to get inside.

Heating it made the black plastic very, very soft, and slightly softened the adhesive. When I started prying, it cracked the lens in two, but the adhesive just kept hanging on! I probably could have shoved it back together and it would've still held lol! I sort of gave up at that point and managed to super glue and silicon it back together so it doesn't look too bad. Guess I'm on the hunt for a new set of clearance lights.

1/7/22 - Pulled the engine and transmission out. Took the head off the block and found signs of detonation. I have a replacement GZE long block and head that will be going off to the machine shop.
You didn't open up the stock bigport prior to your previous turbo build right? Compression was probably a bit high for a turbo build unless you were real careful with your tuning and timing. The smallport needs 91 Octane, but I've heard that the bigport may also ping/detonate on 87 if the EGR stuff is removed.
 
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01 camry ce
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
1/30/22 – The long block was dropped off at the engine builder and I have started to paint the bay and clean up the remaining parts.

My favorite rattle can paint job. The Rustoleum white primer is a 95% match with the Toyota 040 Super White II in case anyone is looking for a cheap paint job. I used 3 cans of primer, 3 cans of paint, and 3 cans of clear coat which cost me about $130. I still haven’t sprayed the clear coat.





I have also started cleaning most of the accessories. I’ve been cleaning a box of parts every weekend.



I repaired some pitted coolant pipes by using a wire wheel to take off the rust and jb weld to fill in the pits.

 

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01 camry ce
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
it's just carbon bulit up, once cleaned the pistons will look as good as new, the head surface doesn't look bad, just some cleaning.
that piston is toast, its heavily pitted on the edges and has a small chunk missing from the edge.im pretty sure this is from detonation from possible bad fuel, tune, high compression ratio or a combination of them all. the block was rebuilt before so im not going that route again. the head needs machining and from the looks of it, it needs a GOOD skimming to get it all flat. the bottom end was rebuilt and probably had crappy aftermarket oversized pistons. not worth rebuilding for me since I need lower compression ratio for turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
2/13/22 – I got my hands on a C56 for a decent price. I was told all the gears work and don’t grind. I gave it a good cleaning with aluminum wheel cleaner and a wire brush on a drill. I sprayed it down with Alumi-Blast which is made by Eastwood. It has an excellent finish and adheres to the casing without drips. I am impressed by this product.

I also sprayed some other parts as well to match the trans.




2/26/22 – One of the most annoying things I had to do was remove and clean all the power steering lines. They were disgusting. Replacements are non-existent and I liked the way the engine bay looked without all the lines. So the logical thing to do would be to google alternatives and found this build tread. You guys should definetly read this tread, it’s freakin awesome. He used an Electric Power Assist Steering (EPAS) system. I also found this tread which was helpful since it was an AE92/95.
After a short course on Youtube Academy I hit up the local LKQ PYP and snagged a steering column off a 2007 prius. Yet another fine addition of prius parts on my corolla. I paid $140 inc. taxes and fees for a steering column, control box, and pigtails. Here is the prius column (left) and the stock column (right) side by side.

It looked close enough to work so I started cutting and welding bits until I ended up with this.

I was able to tuck the motor upwards into a void under the dash and had to bend the gas pedal a bit to clear the motor. Hooked up my battery directly to the wires on the control box and was able to turn the wheels by hand. So far I am very impressed with the results.
 

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2/13/22 – I got my hands on a C56 for a decent price. I was told all the gears work and don’t grind. I gave it a good cleaning with aluminum wheel cleaner and a wire brush on a drill. I sprayed it down with Alumi-Blast which is made by Eastwood. It has an excellent finish and adheres to the casing without drips. I am impressed by this product.

I also sprayed some other parts as well to match the trans.




2/26/22 – One of the most annoying things I had to do was remove and clean all the power steering lines. They were disgusting. Replacements are non-existent and I liked the way the engine bay looked without all the lines. So the logical thing to do would be to google alternatives and found this build tread. You guys should definetly read this tread, it’s freakin awesome. He used an Electric Power Assist Steering (EPAS) system. I also found this tread which was helpful since it was an AE92/95.
After a short course on Youtube Academy I hit up the local LKQ PYP and snagged a steering column off a 2007 prius. Yet another fine addition of prius parts on my corolla. I paid $140 inc. taxes and fees for a steering column, control box, and pigtails. Here is the prius column (left) and the stock column (right) side by side.

It looked close enough to work so I started cutting and welding bits until I ended up with this.

I was able to tuck the motor upwards into a void under the dash and had to bend the gas pedal a bit to clear the motor. Hooked up my battery directly to the wires on the control box and was able to turn the wheels by hand. So far I am very impressed with the results.
i thought the 88-91 gts use the c52 trans, and the c56 also fit? what is the different in gear ratios between the 2?
 

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01 camry ce
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
the c52 and c56 have identical casings as far as I can see when compared side by side. the only difference externally was the plastic cover for the cv axle on the c56 output. that same cover is made of metal on the c52. they both have the same part number stamped on them. if anyone has any info on determining the difference between c52 and c56 externally, id love to hear it... from the info i found on line they are identical.

the 3rd and 4th and final gears are slightly different between the c52 and c56. other than that they are identical.
c52
1st2nd3rd4th5thReverseFinalDifferential Gear Ratio
3.1661.9041.3100.9690.8153.2504.0583.722

c56
1st2nd3rd4th5thReverseFinal
3.1661.9041.3921.0310.8153.2504.312
 

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the c52 and c56 have identical casings as far as I can see when compared side by side. the only difference externally was the plastic cover for the cv axle on the c56 output. that same cover is made of metal on the c52. they both have the same part number stamped on them. if anyone has any info on determining the difference between c52 and c56 externally, id love to hear it... from the info i found on line they are identical.

the 3rd and 4th and final gears are slightly different between the c52 and c56. other than that they are identical.
c52
1st2nd3rd4th5thReverseFinalDifferential Gear Ratio
3.1661.9041.3100.9690.8153.2504.0583.722

c56
1st2nd3rd4th5thReverseFinal
3.1661.9041.3921.0310.8153.2504.312
hey bro, im having some problem with my speedometer being eratic, the rpm working fine but the speed needle is acting up, recently everytime i start the car, it took around 10 minutes for the speed needle to start working properly. since u got ur trans out in the open, can u tell where the speed sensor located? i tried to look through a bunch of vacum line and the air box is in the way so i couldn't locate it. and if u could took a pic . thanks in advance.
 

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Corolla & Avensis
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it's just carbon bulit up, once cleaned the pistons will look as good as new, the head surface doesn't look bad, just some cleaning.
Don't know what magical cleaning aid you're using, but I would patent that shit if you can fix up damage like that with it! :ROFLMAO:
 

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Corolla & Avensis
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hey bro, im having some problem with my speedometer being eratic, the rpm working fine but the speed needle is acting up, recently everytime i start the car, it took around 10 minutes for the speed needle to start working properly. since u got ur trans out in the open, can u tell where the speed sensor located? i tried to look through a bunch of vacum line and the air box is in the way so i couldn't locate it. and if u could took a pic . thanks in advance.
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