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Discussion Starter #1
my parents car will not start. i have a running 89 camry 5spd. we swap distributor and ignitor. fuel pump and fuel filter was replace with toyota parts about a yr ago. still no start. it cranks but no fire. timing belt looks fine. checked all fuses. seems like no check engine light is lighted. even with the diagnose terminal shorted.

possible ecu? any other i might need to check?
 

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ASE Master, now Realtor
A 1989 Camry
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I take the words "no fire" to mean that it will not run, but only cranks.

Have you done a check for spark at any of the spark plug wires, using a tester or old plug grounded to the block?
 

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Is Check engine light on steady with key in on position?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
we swap whole distributor with my camry. spark plugs look fine. EFI relay has jus been swap with mine. still no start.

doctor J: no, check engine is not on. even with diagnose terminal short.

jus swap ecu with my 5spd ecu and still no start. very very clueless...
 

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ASE Master, now Realtor
A 1989 Camry
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The first clue is whether or not you have spark on the end of a plug wire, using a tester or an old plug, grounded to the block.
 

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Back to Dr. J's question. With the key in accessory positionm, before you crank the engine, the idiot lights all go on to let you know that they are working. At this point, is the check engine light on or off?

I too, would like to know if you have spark at the plugs.

Kep
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Kep said:
Back to Dr. J's question. With the key in accessory positionm, before you crank the engine, the idiot lights all go on to let you know that they are working. At this point, is the check engine light on or off?

I too, would like to know if you have spark at the plugs.

Kep

with key on ACC, without cranking... theres no CEL light. others are lit on in ON position. doesnt seem like i have any spark at the end of spark plug wire.

whats next?
 

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Check plug in connectors on ECU. Make sure they are pushed in.
Next, verify that there is 12 V on the wht/red tracer wires
at all times.
If so, unplug the connectors and check the input/ output circuits using link in Timebuilder's post.
Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Doctor J said:
Check plug in connectors on ECU. Make sure they are pushed in.
Next, verify that there is 12 V on the wht/red tracer wires
at all times.
If so, unplug the connectors and check the input/ output circuits using link in Timebuilder's post.
Keep us posted.
i have the haynes manual in front of me.. wht/red wires give me a +b and +b1 as well as IGF. are those suppose to be 12v constant?
 

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This is copied from "Tech Tip Corner"

Relay Runaround on Toyota Models
A faulty main circuit opening relay may cause an intermittent no-start condition on several Toyota models. If you are lucky enough to get the vehicle from the customer when it won't start, try this simple check before you waste any time on complicated diagnosis:

  • Turn the ignition to the ON position. The CHECK ENGINE light should be ON.
  • If the CHECK ENGINE light is not ON, locate the main circuit opening relay, then make sure you have more than nine volts on the output pole of the relay with the ignition in the ON position.
  • If the output voltage is below nine volts, but the input voltage to the relay is equal to battery voltage, replace the circuit opening relay. Its internal contacts are probably pitted and arced, which creates a voltage drop inside the relay.

I've spent more than one day on more than one car, trying to find an intermittent relay. Now I check the CHECK ENGINE light before I do any further diagnosis.

Brad Foltz
Miller Auto Group
Hedgeville, West Virginia


I am pretty sure that he is referring to the EFI relay. Since you swapped yours I am perplexed but still if your CEL isn't on when you put the key in accessory position it is awful suspicious. You may want to focus on the EFI wiring and the like.

Kep
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OBwan said:
Fuel Pump....
fuel pump was replace a yr ago with toyota oem part. also we loosen the cold start injector, while cranking, fuel drips like crazy out so it couldnt be fuel pump... to be sure.:confused:
 

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ASE Master, now Realtor
A 1989 Camry
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Au contraire.

You need to properly test a fuel pump, not simply rely on a dripping connection.

Your pump must produce a minimum of a pint of fuel in a maximum of 30 seconds. Last week, a toyota pump was reported as going bad after six months on this forum.

And, the fuel pump test is just one of several tests for this condition.
 

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The first thing is to unplug the connectors from the ecu and test them with volt/ohm meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Kep: here in the haynes manual the circuit opening relay is mounted with the ecu. that part was tested with another car and nothing is faulty.

doctor j: i tested the two white/red wires, they sit top and bottom of one another on same plug and have no voltage. this is with key switch off. correct?

UPDATE!...

efi fuse is somehow blown. we replaced it. replaced the battery as well. dont know why but the check engine light is back on now. but still no start. theres no fuel now. we jumped the +b and FP. still no start. but somehow the clip that we used to jump is very hot. is that expected?
 
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