88 camry 4cyl auto wont start... HELP

The ECM may not be setup to store codes on this type of no start condition. A typical problem is the coil, but download the service info at the link below. Toyota has a diagnostics procedure for these types of no start conditions.

http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry

I had a similiar problem in my '90 5-speed and it turned out to be a bad EFI relay...though my problem only occured in the heat.

I take the words "no fire" to mean that it will not run, but only cranks.

Have you done a check for spark at any of the spark plug wires, using a tester or old plug grounded to the block?

Is Check engine light on steady with key in on position?

we swap whole distributor with my camry. spark plugs look fine. EFI relay has jus been swap with mine. still no start.

doctor J: no, check engine is not on. even with diagnose terminal short.

jus swap ecu with my 5spd ecu and still no start. very very clueless...

Back to Dr. J's question. With the key in accessory positionm, before you crank the engine, the idiot lights all go on to let you know that they are working. At this point, is the check engine light on or off?

I too, would like to know if you have spark at the plugs.

Kep

Kep said:

Back to Dr. J's question. With the key in accessory positionm, before you crank the engine, the idiot lights all go on to let you know that they are working. At this point, is the check engine light on or off?

I too, would like to know if you have spark at the plugs.

Kep

Click to expand...

with key on ACC, without cranking... theres no CEL light. others are lit on in ON position. doesnt seem like i have any spark at the end of spark plug wire.

whats next?

Check plug in connectors on ECU. Make sure they are pushed in.
Next, verify that there is 12 V on the wht/red tracer wires
at all times.
If so, unplug the connectors and check the input/ output circuits using link in Timebuilder's post.
Keep us posted.

Doctor J said:

Check plug in connectors on ECU. Make sure they are pushed in.
Next, verify that there is 12 V on the wht/red tracer wires
at all times.
If so, unplug the connectors and check the input/ output circuits using link in Timebuilder's post.
Keep us posted.

Click to expand...

i have the haynes manual in front of me.. wht/red wires give me a +b and +b1 as well as IGF. are those suppose to be 12v constant?

Only B+ and B1+ must be 12 V.

Fuel Pump....

OBwan said:

Fuel Pump....

Click to expand...

fuel pump was replace a yr ago with toyota oem part. also we loosen the cold start injector, while cranking, fuel drips like crazy out so it couldnt be fuel pump... to be sure.

Au contraire.

You need to properly test a fuel pump, not simply rely on a dripping connection.

Your pump must produce a minimum of a pint of fuel in a maximum of 30 seconds. Last week, a toyota pump was reported as going bad after six months on this forum.

And, the fuel pump test is just one of several tests for this condition.

The first thing is to unplug the connectors from the ecu and test them with volt/ohm meter.

Kep: here in the haynes manual the circuit opening relay is mounted with the ecu. that part was tested with another car and nothing is faulty.

doctor j: i tested the two white/red wires, they sit top and bottom of one another on same plug and have no voltage. this is with key switch off. correct?

UPDATE!...

efi fuse is somehow blown. we replaced it. replaced the battery as well. dont know why but the check engine light is back on now. but still no start. theres no fuel now. we jumped the +b and FP. still no start. but somehow the clip that we used to jump is very hot. is that expected?