whats it do when you try to start it?
edit: try jumping it first also.
edit: try jumping it first also.
I replaced the alt. and it started fine. It has started fine for the past week and a half. The alt is charging the battery fine also.homeguard said:whats it do when you try to start it?
edit: try jumping it first also.
Yes.homeguard said:you check all the fuses?
Brake fluid is topped off.SR5 Rolla said:My brake light wouldn't go off. Check your brake fluid level first. My front pads were fine, but I needed new drums in the rear so check it out.
How can I tell if is't the parking brake???homeguard said:i think the only sensor with the break light is on the hand break im not sure though, i am gussing this is a sedan?
Well,..thats why I changed the alt. first.REN69 said:If the break light AND the battery light come on at the same time, chances are its your alternator, I learned that recently from experience. The alternator charges about half the time and the other half it will give low charge, this is why the brake/battery light comes on, it indicates that your alternator is producing a low charge (under 12V) and eventually it will stop charging.
If the brake light alone comes on, that means that your brake fluid is low, not that your brakes are broken or anything like that.. the only sensor is located on the brake fluid bottle and that's it, there's no sensor for worn out pads/shoes(well except for the squealing spring on brake pads) or broken parking brake cables.. you get my drift?
However there is a sensor on the brake lever that turns on when you put your parking brake on, this explains why your brake light gets brighter.
I checked all the fuse before changing the alt.REN69 said:hmmm.. bad ground maybe. maybe even a bad fuse.![]()
and yes.. my alternator did charge fine.. but only half the time.
Not sure which wire you're talking about,.. but I cleaned out my terminals already so i doubt thats the problem.CanadaGTS said:I had that problem with my 4af also if you changed the battery and the alternator and the light didn't go away, also check the battery terminals if that still doesn't fix it then it this. its the main power wire on the postive side this same wire controls the choke on the car i think its a yellow wire, that wire is corrode or starting to break down over all the years and weather conditions like mine did so what you need to do is jump the wire from the alternator to the main power wire on the battery that way there two way for the power to get through the system. it took me 6 months to figure out the problem. it costed me 2 battery and alternator, over time is will overcharge the battery and burn the inside of the alternator. this should fix your problem like me know the outcome.
Thanks for your help. I'm gonna try that this week.CanadaGTS said:ok i found it, unplug your alternator there should be three wires from plug a yellow , white and a black and yellow. teh problem is the yellow one cuz it runs to teh choke then to the battery, do you notice that sometimes the car's rpm is low, this wire cuz that problem also. anyways get a new wire a little thicker than the yellow one join that new wire to the yellow but don't cut off the old one you still need it so now the yellow wire splits into two run that new one all the way under the rad support till you get to the postive side of the battery which should have the yellow color and do the same to that wire. so now the power has to ways to get around. but cuting the old wire it messup the choke from the wire diagram the wire passes on both side of it. it a big job to try and renew this wire at that point might as well do and engine swap. anyways that should fix the problem. let me know the out come. oh also when you do all that disconnect the negative also and put back like it was a new battery. why i'm not sure when i did just the postive the light stayed on. when i did both teh light never came back, or it just could be my car.