[C.Stewart]

I have a 89 sr5 with the 4af, it cranks but wont start ( i dont think i am getting spark ). I started it yesterday, then it died after a few seconds. i am still getting fuel, my timing belt is still good. i replaced my main engine relay because last time this happened the relay popped. i checked the transfusible links and those are good, along with all my other fuses i am aware of ( engine bay and driver side ones). I do have a lot of resistance from the battery post to the other sides of the fusible links. But i dont think this would cause a no spark. Any suggestions??

 

[C.Stewart]

i have no spark, not even a little, i tried a different rotor and cap. I checked my ignition coil, that was good. anyone know how to check the igniter? i checked the other parts of the dizzy and those where good to. i am unsure how to check the igniter due to my chilton manual just says replace under the no spark troubleshooting chart.

 

[DrZ]

Did you check for power (12V) at the positive terminal of the coil also?

My 1990 Toyota repair manual says to check the pickup coil measure the resistance between the terminals G1 and G(-), NE and G(-). Pickup coil resistance (cold): 140-180 Ohms. Those are the terminals on the distributor connector.

The flow chart also includes checking the resistance of the high tension cords, ignition coil, air gap and "check IGT signal from ECU". the final step is "try another igniter". And on the next page under Inspection of Igniter it just refers back to the Spark Test procedure flowchart.

Have you also checked the IGN, EFI, STOP and GAUGE fuses, and the EFI Main relay? They are all on the same wiring diagram page with the ECU and distributor.

 

[C.Stewart]

i did all those tests with my dmm, all are fine. i checked all the fuses to. both visually and with the dmm. none are open. The relay's are working, i can hear them click when i isolate them(also tried another main engine relay, did not work). i was reading up that the dizzys go bad on these engines, its pretty common from what i have read. and after 280k it probably does need to be replaced. i am going to a junk yard to try one. i will probably just take the igniter out of it. and all my circuit breakers are self resetting. i doubt its my ECU due to the fact those RARELY ever go bad. plus i have all my gauge lights, CEL. i even put it in Diagnostics and i got no codes. hopefully another dizzy will work.

 

[DrZ]

If there's 12 volts to the distributor and it's rotating but no spark, then it must be something in the distributor. Trying one from the junkyard is a good idea (or trying the igniter).

 

[C.Stewart]

yeah, well i found out toyota doesnt use a universal style igniter( between there own dizzys) So i went to the junk yard, and didnt find a 4af, but found the EFI model 16 valve. And for the price of a new igniter i might as well buy a brand new dizzy. Hopefully when i go to Ecology or Pick a Part off 35th this weekend one of them will have a 4af. man, i just have no luck with this yota.

 

[DrZ]

Are you saying the 4A-FE and 4A-F ignitor/distributor are different?

The Pick a Part off 35th has about ten 6th gen Corollas. They seem to be a bit more expensive than other places though. That's where I found my dashboard in great condition (no cracks).

U Pull & Pay lists their part prices on their website, but they only list two 6th gen Corollas. They do list 4 Celica ST's from 1991-95. I believe ST's had the 4A-FE. Again, not sure if the 4A-FE helps you.

 

[C.Stewart]

yes they are different, the ignitor size and design are completely different. i have to find a 4af dizzy in order to get my car running. i will probably go to Ecology first then go to pick a part( i agree with you, they are pricey and kinda rude to customers)

 

[rini]

check your ignition switch contacts before spending to much money

 

[C.Stewart]

new dizzy fixed it, if it was ignition switch it wouldnt crank. it had to be the igniter in the dizzy. its common for dizzys to crap out on these cars. Jap dizzys arnt that great i guess.