[kenratboy]

My car is in my sig.

I know there is the 'recommended' service, but is there anything else I should do while it is there? It is a PITA to get my car in, so I want to get everything done in one stop.

Any engine parts (water pump, for example) I may want to have taken care of? Anything I should do or have done that is not 'recommended'?

I just put in a new starter (old one died).

One thing that NEEDS to be done is a total and complete flushing of the cooling system. Also, would it be a good idea (if it won't be done automatically) to get my (manual) tranny juice changed?

Oh, for our friends in the north, 145,000 km

 

[skewe]

timing belts and all other belts
-water pump
-tensioner
-gaskets/seals

reason for water pump, etc cos as u take off the timing belt, the water pump is just next to it..

 

[kenratboy]

All the belts were done recently, so no need on that.

Tensioners? I assume belt tensioners? They may have been done (how much $$$)?

You say gaskets and seals - for what in particular?

Thanks!

 

[SmokingTires]

timing belts and all other belts
-water pump
-tensioner
-gaskets/seals

reason for water pump, etc cos as u take off the timing belt, the water pump is just next to it..

BS!!! You don't need to do other belts. If your exterior belts are fine, LEAVE THEM! That's just wasting money.

As for the tensioner, THE SAME!!!! Don't fix it if it isn't broken!!!!! Tensioners aren't a wear part, so you shouldn't be expecting it to go at any time. They are a more rare part to break.

Gaskets and seals, THE SAME! Don't fix stuff that doesn't need fixing. If you fix any gasket before fluid is dripping on your garage floor, your wasting you money. If you see just a little residue, that's fine. You have thousands of miles to go before it is dripping. Your just wasting your money if you fix it that early.



Water pump you do with the timing belt, because you need to take the water pump off to do the timing belt. So your basically saving the labor charge of taking the water pump off again. HOWEVER! Timing belt is to be done at every 60,000 mile mark, not 90,000. So if you haven't done it yet, your really pushing it. And if you have had it done once previously, don't spend the money doing it now.


This is all stuff you would hear from techs in a shop. If they tell you anything different, it's a sleazy shop that is just trying to sell you on stuff. My shop wouldn't dare push any of those items on people that didn't need them.

-Mike

 

[kenratboy]

Wow, that was a grade A rant, well done!

Yes, the belt was done when I bought the car (72k) - so that is fine.

Am I just looking at fluids then?

 

[Super Kaioken]

wtf in the toyota service manual it even says at 90K to do timing belt -_-

 

[touringcamry]

I think starting with Gen4 Camry, the timing belt on Camrys don't need to be changed until 90,000 miles.

 

[kenratboy]

How do I have so many posts on this forum!?

Hmmm...

 

[SmokingTires]

wtf in the toyota service manual it even says at 90K to do timing belt -_-

I don't trust dealer service manuals at all. You can go ahead and risk it. But at the chance yours is an interference engine, and that belt snaps, bye bye engine. Unless youre willing to pay to have a whole head job done on it. not worth the money.

ow, that was a grade A rant, well done!

Yes, the belt was done when I bought the car (72k) - so that is fine.

Am I just looking at fluids then?

Cooling system, I wouldn't do unless it's bad. I'd check your hoses to see if they are soft or leaking. Replace them as needed. You could check to see if your tranny needs to be flushed. But mainly just look over things. If you haven't done plugs and wires in a while, now is the time to do them.

 

[touringcamry]

Gen 4 Camrys are non-interference and use a timing belt. Belt breaks, the car stalls and you'll get stuck somewhere for a while. Engine shouldn't be damaged.

Super Kaioken's car if I4 (2AZ-FE motor) is an interfernce engine but it has a timing chain and there is no specified maintenance interval specified for the chain.

 

[SmokingTires]

Gen 4 Camrys are non-interference and use a timing belt. Belt breaks, the car stalls and you'll get stuck somewhere for a while. Engine shouldn't be damaged.

Super Kaioken's car if I4 (2AZ-FE motor) is an interfernce engine but it has a timing chain and there is no specified maintenance interval specified for the chain.

I didn't know his engine, so I wasn't going to guess if it was or not. Eitherway, your shit out of luck for a while.

I don't know what the point about the chain was. His engine uses a belt... Just like I said... So I'm really lost in the point you were trying to make with that submission.

 

[kenratboy]

My coolant is literally BLACK. There are chuncks in it. I am SURE it needs to be flushed. If anything, it will make me feel better.

My timing belt was done less than 20,000 miles ago, done, fine. I was lead to believe by this forum it IS an interference engine (my 1MZ-FE), but who knows.

 

[touringcamry]

wtf in the toyota service manual it even says at 90K to do timing belt -_-

I don't trust dealer service manuals at all. You can go ahead and risk it. But at the chance yours is an interference engine, and that belt snaps, bye bye engine.

I thought this was a reference to SuperKaioken's engine...that's why I brought up the timining chain

 

[SmokingTires]

I thought this was a reference to SuperKaioken's engine...that's why I brought up the timining chain

Ah, no I figured he was referring to a general manual for Toyotas.


kenratboy: Anytime it starts getting gross, get it flushed. It's not something you do based on mileage. Depending on how bad the condition is, there are different types of flushes to have done. I would suggest if yours is black, to have an old style flush done.

-Mike

 

[Super Kaioken]

umm.....just for my gen 5 i dunno about the other generations and their belts/chains. but yeah i've got the 1mz too.

 

[touringcamry]

I didn't know what engine you have...but I know the 2AZ has a chain which is why I brought it up.

 

[Digger1]

Ken,

Commonly overlooked maintenance item......get your brake fluid changed.

I change mine every 30K miles. The only brake fluid related failure I've ever had on any of my cars was a weeping slave cylinder at 170K miles on my old (since sold) Gen 1 Camry.

 

[SmokingTires]

Ken,

Commonly overlooked maintenance item......get your brake fluid changed.

I change mine every 30K miles. The only brake fluid related failure I've ever had on any of my cars was a weeping slave cylinder at 170K miles on my old (since sold) Gen 1 Camry.

Once again, that's not a regular maint. item. You don't need to change brake fluid until it's horribly dirty. Even if it is just a little dirty, you can still run it and it will be fine.


I never once changed the brake fluid on my Camry and it never had ANYthing leak up to 214,000 miles when I sold it. So that disproves your use of proof for backing un-needed maint.



Once again, Don't fix it if it isn't broken!

 

[Digger1]

Once again, that's not a regular maint. item. You don't need to change brake fluid until it's horribly dirty. Even if it is just a little dirty, you can still run it and it will be fine.


I never once changed the brake fluid on my Camry and it never had ANYthing leak up to 214,000 miles when I sold it. So that disproves your use of proof for backing un-needed maint.



Once again, Don't fix it if it isn't broken!

Ken,

Smokin' has had good luck with keeping old brake fluid in there. USUALLY not a problem. However, keep in mind that conventional brake fluid is quite hygroscopic. Because of this fact, it is possible to get corrosion damage in your brake system. This problem seems to be more pronounced in motorcycle brake systems. BTDT.

IMO, it's cheaper to buy a bottle of brake fluid every two years or so than it is to buy a master cylinder once every 20 years.

 

[Diehonda]

your at 90K with a pretty new timing belt.
http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/index.php

Replace engine oil and oil filter
Replace engine air filter
Replace engine coolant
Replace timing belt
Rotate tires
Inspect the following:
Ball joints and dust covers
Brake lines and hoses
Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs
Differential oil
Drive belts
Drive shaft boots
Exhaust pipes and mountings
Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses
Fuel tank cap gasket
Steering gear box
Steering linkage and boots
Transmission fluid or oil


Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions:

Driving on Rough, Muddy or Snow-Melted Roads
Inspect nuts and bolts on chassis and body
Towing a Trailer or Using a Camper or Car-Top Carrier
Inspect nuts and bolts on chassis and body
Replace automatic transmission fluid
Replace differential oil
Replace manual transmission oil




That should sum it up for you.:thumbup::smokin: