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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
okay, i read through about 10 pages or so, to make sure i don't get the dumb girl card played on me for asking a recently answered question :thumbsup:

Stats: 91 4runner - 4cylinder - 22re

Problems:
* no power (even for a 4cylinder it's really bad) - we did a complete tune up, and changed the oil about 3 times already (for various reasons)

* the oil pressure gauge (in dash) doesn't work - so we changed the sensor and it still doesn't work

* the timing chain was rattling really bad - so we changed the tensioner and the tracks, the chain ate that all up, including a little of the cover, but we didn't change that. it still rattles, so we were thinking the chain might be bad? so now we're going to change that, and the cover, and check if the tracks and tensioner are eaten up again, and i swear, if it is, i'm going to shoot myself in the head!! :headbang:

* he also dropped the oil pan and cleaned that out because all the eaten parts of the track and shards of metal from the cover was in there.

* it's still rattling really bad, and the oil pressure gauge isn't working, but i'm worried that oil might not be getting to where it needs to be? because when i drive there's no power, so my boyfriend tells me to pop it in 2nd, i do that, and still, no power, and the rattling gets louder, so i just pull off to the right lane and baby her up the hills or whatever. then a few days ago i did that and as i was climbing a hill i smelt a burning smell and it started smoking in my cab! i pulled over, contemplated a tow, and called my boyfriend who said to drive home. we switched cars yesterday and he supposedly checked it, and test ran it, and "NOTHING'S WRONG" so i'm basically hallucinating this! :kookoo:

* one more thing, i'm driving to work this morning and the smoke starts again, and i keep driving, because HE says it's fine SO WHATEVER!!!!!!!!!! anyway, it happens again, only MORE SMOKE! so i pull over, & open the hood while it's still running and i've got this geyser of a leak somewhere?? but you can totally tell somethings not right because there's oil all over the driver's side of the motor, sprayed up to the hood, and i look under the car and it's splattering onto the ground.
i'm so pissed right now! :bash:

can someone who actually knows what they're talking about please help me!? i'm seriously gonna cry :sosad:
 

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First of all, welcome to the forum! :welcome:

Sorry to hear you're having a hard time with your runner... I think we've all been there. Your instincts sound good though - you should be able to get a handle on your motor's issues.

You say 22r - do you mean 22re? The 22r has a carburetor, 22re is fuel injected.

Re: the oil situation - sounds like oil filler cap was not put on securely or dipstick is not there... but if both of those okay, look till you find the oil leak.

Bring your oil back to full on the dipstick before running the motor again.

Oil pressure gauge - most trucks originally came without a tachometer and without an oil pressure gauge - they came with idiot lights instead. It's possible to swap in an SR5 model instrument cluster that has a tach & gauges, and maybe that's what was done on your truck. HOWEVER - the oil pressure sender on the engine must be changed to the kind that works with the gauge: if you hook up the idiot light sender to an oil pressure gauge, it will fry the gauge. Sounds like this is what happened on your truck. Once the gauge is fried, it's gone. Either get another SR5 cluster or buy an aftermarket oil gauge.

The right sender for the SR5 oil pressure gauge looks like this:


Timing chain- it's a shame you didn't visit the forum before doing that work - you always replace the chain together with the guides, tensioner, gears & water pump. The chain stretches, and eventually will break. If that chain breaks, your pistons will run into your valves and mangle them. MAJOR expense. Most 22re folks use the timing set from engnbldr.com - good parts, good prices, the best service anywhere.

Power- first step would be to do a compression test and see what kind of shape the cylinders are in. Instructions in the factory manual in the ENGINE MECHANICAL - COMPRESSION CHECK section. If you don't have a manual, google 1993 toyota pickup service manual - same engine. Compression testers are not expensive - Actron CP7826 would work - $27 with shipping from Amazon, ebay good source too. Make sure it handles 14mm threads. Keep turning over motor until the compression gauge needle stops rising, up to a max of 7 or 8 compression cycles. Try to run the same # of compression cycles on all the cylinders.

Post back with your compression numbers and verify which motor you have and we can provide further suggestions.
 

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If there's noise and/or smoke, there's something wrong - you're not hallucinating. It also sounds like the timing chain may have been set one tooth off where it should be, which causes lots of rattling at any engine speed, as well as power loss.
Here's an information link for changing the timing chain and associated parts - have a read through top educate yourself on the whole procedure, it has pictures too.

Edit: Changing the 22R/RE timing chain

Oh, and welcome to TN...
 

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Had '90 22RE 5 spd 4Rnr which my daughter has now with 210k miles. You should have changed the timing chain for sure! Do it now before it eats thru the housing and oil mixes with antifreeze potentially ruinging engine. I'm sure the housing is near gone by now. You have 4000 lb vehicle and 116 hp (when brand new) - off timing, low compression, large tires and yes there will be no performance. A compression test will show how worn engine is. All 4Rnrs had the tach and oil pressure gauge back then - PUs it was option. Early on, I swapped ADD hubs for Warn manual hubs and that made a noticeable difference. If yours is automatic - then yup there is no power as the AT saps a good 40 hp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First of all, welcome to the forum! :welcome:

Sorry to hear you're having a hard time with your runner... I think we've all been there. Your instincts sound good though - you should be able to get a handle on your motor's issues.

You say 22r - do you mean 22re? The 22r has a carburetor, 22re is fuel injected.

Re: the oil situation - sounds like oil filler cap was not put on securely or dipstick is not there... but if both of those okay, look till you find the oil leak.

Bring your oil back to full on the dipstick before running the motor again.

Oil pressure gauge - most trucks originally came without a tachometer and without an oil pressure gauge - they came with idiot lights instead. It's possible to swap in an SR5 model instrument cluster that has a tach & gauges, and maybe that's what was done on your truck. HOWEVER - the oil pressure sender on the engine must be changed to the kind that works with the gauge: if you hook up the idiot light sender to an oil pressure gauge, it will fry the gauge. Sounds like this is what happened on your truck. Once the gauge is fried, it's gone. Either get another SR5 cluster or buy an aftermarket oil gauge.

The right sender for the SR5 oil pressure gauge looks like this:


Timing chain- it's a shame you didn't visit the forum before doing that work - you always replace the chain together with the guides, tensioner, gears & water pump. The chain stretches, and eventually will break. If that chain breaks, your pistons will run into your valves and mangle them. MAJOR expense. Most 22re folks use the timing set from engnbldr.com - good parts, good prices, the best service anywhere.

Power- first step would be to do a compression test and see what kind of shape the cylinders are in. Instructions in the factory manual in the ENGINE MECHANICAL - COMPRESSION CHECK section. If you don't have a manual, google 1993 toyota pickup service manual - same engine. Compression testers are not expensive - Actron CP7826 would work - $27 with shipping from Amazon, ebay good source too. Make sure it handles 14mm threads. Keep turning over motor until the compression gauge needle stops rising, up to a max of 7 or 8 compression cycles. Try to run the same # of compression cycles on all the cylinders.

Post back with your compression numbers and verify which motor you have and we can provide further suggestions.
(It is a 22re - fuel injected)

Okay, we definitely got the right sensor, but only AFTER they gave us the wrong one. so it is probably fried then, right? we also got an after market pressure gauge just to check if we're getting the right amount of pressure and the nut doesn't fit. the thread looks the same, but it looks a little wider at the tip, which is probably why it doesn't fit? went back to get a smaller one, and they say that's the smallest? so what do i do, and where can i get another cluster from?

THANKS SO MUCH FOR THAT WEBSITE! :clap: just for the stuff we changed we paid more than double! plus they have the cover for like $80? that's crazy.. i think i love you!? :thanks: :respect:

back to the car, my boyfriend said it was rebuilt just before we bought it, which is why he didn't think he had to change the chain and all that, because everything was replaced.. it also has a cam & headers?

there was also a rattly valve (i think?) but he tightened that, shot the timing, all that.. but the idle is still jumpy and it dies out. but only SOMETIMES. it seems to only happen to me, so maybe my car hates me? i sort of hit the back of my boyfriends truck one day for fun, and ended up puncturing my transmission oil cooler, and ever since then, we've had all these problems! maybe she's mad at me? and i have to do some ritual to get rid of the bad juju?? :bowdown:

anyway, thanks for your help! you rock!!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If there's noise and/or smoke, there's something wrong - you're not hallucinating. It also sounds like the timing chain may have been set one tooth off where it should be, which causes lots of rattling at any engine speed, as well as power loss.
Here's an information link for changing the timing chain and associated parts - have a read through top educate yourself on the whole procedure, it has pictures too.

Edit: Changing the 22R/RE timing chain

Oh, and welcome to TN...
thank you! and thanks for the site :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Had '90 22RE 5 spd 4Rnr which my daughter has now with 210k miles. You should have changed the timing chain for sure! Do it now before it eats thru the housing and oil mixes with antifreeze potentially ruinging engine. I'm sure the housing is near gone by now. You have 4000 lb vehicle and 116 hp (when brand new) - off timing, low compression, large tires and yes there will be no performance. A compression test will show how worn engine is. All 4Rnrs had the tach and oil pressure gauge back then - PUs it was option. Early on, I swapped ADD hubs for Warn manual hubs and that made a noticeable difference. If yours is automatic - then yup there is no power as the AT saps a good 40 hp.
thanks for your help too!

besides all this, is there anything else i can do to get more speed?
 

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You really need to determine condition of engine innards. Best non intrusive way is with a compression test. If all are >120# and all within 5 pounds then engine ok --- if low compression it will take rings and a valve job to get power. If ok then could be dirty fuel injectors (add jug of Chevron Techron FI cleaner). I never liked aftermarket plug wires or non NGK/Nippon plugs - what did you use? Is catalytic converter clear. I've heard - the engine been recently rebuilt a hundred times - as many as its never been wrecked. All seem to have different idea of what that actually means and rattling timing chain seems to indicate less than a complete rebuild - again compression check will blow the whistle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
resetting distributor

Okay, so we changed the timing chain and all that stuff but when we tried to reset the distributor the timing is off and the truck won't start. We set it at top dead center on no. 1 cylinder on the intake stroke and the mark on the pulley doesn't line up with the mark on the cam to be top dead center. We also set the distributor on no. 1 cylinder and it won't start.

Does anyone know what the setting should be? I looked it up online and nothing. :confused:

Thank you!!
 

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Try turning the crank one more turn and put it back on the timming mark. Let see if I can explain this in simple to understand language. It takes 2 turns of the crankshaft to turn the cam 1 turn. You could be trying to align things on only one turn of the crankshaft. Therefore you are as they say 180 degress off. So if you turn the crankshaft one turn and align if it does not align try one more turn. If at that time it does not align you will have to go back in and reposition the timming chain to the proper alignment. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Idling Issues

Morning! :D


You all really helped when I re-did my timing chain and all that, so I’m back for more. We figured out what the massive oil leak was. When we replaced the timing chain cover (without removing the head and all that) we pinched the head gasket on the driver’s side & it ended up getting torn up from the timing chain. But this came after the new problem..


For the new problem: My lower radiator hose busted on my way home from work one day, but I immediately pulled over and got a tow home.. AAA has REALLY come in handy with this car.. :lol: So we replaced that and everything seemed fine, till the next day, my bf checked the fluids and did a little test start, then i jump in about 10 minutes later & it wouldn't start. We tried a few more times and nothing. Checked the fluids again and the oil was all creamy!



So we re-did the head gasket and the motor idle is fine and the timing's on point, but when you put it in gear it sputters and dies out. Does anyone know what the problem could be?


THANKS AHEAD OF TIME!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
another thing is my check engine light is on, and it wasn't before, AND (when it ran) the battery, brake, and it looks like the O/D OFF lights on the dash would come on.. i thought it might be a battery connection, but since i'm posting anyway i figured i should just ask?

 

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Battery and brake light indicate to me that the alternator has gone south. In other words its bad. When the Alternator goes on most Toyotas those indicator lights come on. So I would have the Alternator tested at your local parts house and make sure its dead. But I'm sure you will be replaceing it. I think that will take care of the problem. Let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Battery and brake light indicate to me that the alternator has gone south. In other words its bad. When the Alternator goes on most Toyotas those indicator lights come on. So I would have the Alternator tested at your local parts house and make sure its dead. But I'm sure you will be replaceing it. I think that will take care of the problem. Let us know what you find.

the alternator is brand new. we replaced in within the last year.. that was the first thing to go.

what about my previous post about the IDLE?? can you offer any help there?

Idling Issues
Morning! :D


You all really helped when I re-did my timing chain and all that, so I’m back for more. We figured out what the massive oil leak was. When we replaced the timing chain cover (without removing the head and all that) we pinched the head gasket on the driver’s side & it ended up getting torn up from the timing chain. But this came after the new problem..


For the new problem: My lower radiator hose busted on my way home from work one day, but I immediately pulled over and got a tow home.. AAA has REALLY come in handy with this car.. :lol: So we replaced that and everything seemed fine, till the next day, my bf checked the fluids and did a little test start, then i jump in about 10 minutes later & it wouldn't start. We tried a few more times and nothing. Checked the fluids again and the oil was all creamy!



So we re-did the head gasket and the motor idle is fine and the timing's on point, but when you put it in gear it sputters and dies out. Does anyone know what the problem could be?


THANKS AHEAD OF TIME!!
thanks a bunch!
 

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I dont care how old it is, it has gone south. Please have it looked at. Or you will just be chaseing your tail. One easy way to test it is hook up a volt meter to the battery while the car is started and at about 1500 rpm the voltage at the meter should read at least 13.5 volts. If you dont have that, the alternator is bad. I still believe that is the problem and if fixed it should cure all the symptoms you are describing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
okay, we tested the alternator and battery, both are fine. trucks running rougher, when you try to gas it in park it sputters and dies out. i'm trying to get a diagnostics guy over here to have it tested, but does anyone else have any suggestions???
 

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Since you're getting a check engine light, there must be a code or codes stored in the computer. Go ahead and pull those and report back. This post may help:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2659054&postcount=29

With ignition on, check the E2, E1, E01 and E02 grounds on the ecu. Check for continuity between those terminals and the neg batt post. You can use a jumper cable to extend the neg batt post into the cab for testing.

You might also check the connections at the engine coolant temp sensor just below the upper rad hose, and the connectors of the throttle position sensor, vane air flow meter, distributor, igniter and coil. Also check that the engine ground straps were reinstalled correctly. I have the V6 so I don't know where the 22re ground straps are. Verify that there is almost no resistance between neg batt post and engine block, neg batt post and engine head, and neg batt post and the chassis. Should be no more than a few ohms at the most. Also verify that the igniter has a good ground.
 
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