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Turbo Snail
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Discussion Starter #1
This will help those people who want to change their car to a manual from an automatic.

Im not going to go into detail on how to remove the engine. If you dont know how to remove an engine, this isnt the project for you.

Here is what you need to successfully do the swap.

1. Clutch Pedal
1a. brake pedal (Optional)
2. Clutch Cylinder with the Bracket and Line connected to it.
2a. Clutch Pedal
3. Shifter Assembly
4. Shift Linkage
5. (optional) Manual Cluster
6. Manual Transmission (Obviously)
7. Manual Transmission Axles (Optional) the Automatics will work as well
8. Automatic Engine Harness
9. Neutral Safety Switch
10. Short length of wiring
11. Reverse switch from manual transmission ( just the plug with the wires hanging off )
12. Hose Clamps (1 inch x 2)
13. Automatic ECU too. But you more than likely already have this
14. Hand Pump Bleeder (optional)
15. Flywheel
16. Pressure Plate
17. Clutch

One the engine is removed, start with the shift linkage. There are two 10mm bolts on the outside holding the linkage in place.

Hop into the car, and start tearing the Shift assembly apart. You can Re-use the Shifter surround plastic for the manual swap. You will just have an PWR button in place. Remove the Shift Assembly by taking the four bolts out and remove the linkage from it. There are a few Plugs in there as well. One for the Overdrive and the other for the PWR button. On the opposite side of where you just removed the 10mm bolts in the engine bay (but inside the car) there are two more 10mm bolts. These are a pain in the ass to take out. Once they are removed, the linkage will pull out easily.

Once you get the Manual Linkage and Manual Shifter Assembly hooked up, remove the Lower kick panel under the Steering Column (four 10mm bolts), and remove the Steering Column (17mm nuts) and 12 or 14MM Lock Bolt. Make sure to mark the column shaft with a paint marker

Pull the column out and set it aside. (This step is optional, but I found it made it easier to install the clutch pedal)

To install the clutch pedal, cut out the bolt holes, and also the Clutch Cylinder holes. They are visibly already Pre-Cut kind of so it doesnt take much to cut them out. Once cut out, go into the hood bay and push the Clutch cylinder through the firewall, hop into the car, grabbing the clutch pedal and slide the clutch pedal over the bolts from the Clutch Cylinder. Run the Pin / Clip through (connecting the Clutch Cylinder to the Pedal) and tighten the two nuts securing the pedal.

At this point, you could swap out the brake pedal too if you want. Its a 14mm Bolt/ Nut.

Install your Column again aligning your paint marks and install all your dash pieces.

At this point, if you have a Manual Harness installed. Pull it off, and swap the Automatic Harness onto it. (sounds weird right? Well the reason you use the automatic harness is because if you want to use the manual harness, you have to remove the entire dashboard and swap the entire underdash harness.. it connects to a lot of crap. its just easier this way)

Drop the engine into the engine bay, and install Shure up everything, installing the axles, engine mounts, exhaust, etc..

Once your engine is installed, connect the Clutch Line to the Transmission. Your going to have to bleed it at this point to get all the air out of the line. The nut is an 8mm nut (use a socket). Open it up all the way and fill the clutch cylinder all the way up. You can bleed it three ways

1. Gravity Bleed it. Just wait for it to dribble out
2. Hand Pump Bleed It. This requires a Vacuum pump with a Bleeder canister and hoses attached
3. This way is the easiest for me. I fill the clutch cylinder up, put the cap on it, and push my palm on the top of the canister (The rubber Cap). Pump the cap with your palm up and down and after about 30 pumps fluid will start pushing out.

Once you start getting fluid, have a helper pump the clutch pedal lightly with the 8mm bleeder nut closed. Hold the pedal with some pressure and open the nut. Just like Brakes. Note: The pedal may Drop to the floor a few times. This is normal.

Grab your Neutral Safety Switch and bolt it to the Body. I have an aftermarket intake on my car, so i used one of the pre-exisitng mounting points for this. This step is important, because if you do not have the NSS Bolted to a good ground, the car will not start, as the Starter runs through the NSS first. Make sure the NSS is in the "P" position.

Find the wire that is for reverse (with a test light). Cut the wire off enough that you can connect a wire to the NSS. Connect a length of wire from the NSS to the Reverse Switch. The other side of the wire, connect to the other side you just cut off. (shrink wrap connections)

At the bottom of the A/T Radiator, you have to lengths of hose that are for the transmission cooler. I cut them to a nub, and use two bolts that fit snug, and tighten a Clamp on them.

At this point, depending on where you live, you may have to install a Resistor Block to take care of the flashing OD lights. This will fail an inspection in some locations.

If you did everything correctly, your car is now running and your driving down the road.

If i think of anything else that may be relevant, i'll add it. :thumbsup:

-=-==-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==--=-===-=-=-=--

Let's Make Things Right!

1. You need to swap the brake booster for it to work right. - NOT TRUE
2. You need a manual ECU for it to work right - NOT TRUE
3. You will get a check engine light on if you use an Automatic harness - NOT TRUE
4. You NEED to have Manual Axles for it to work - NOT TRUE
5. You MUST switch the automatic engine mounts (front/Rear) to Manual - NOT TRUE

EDIT:

Forgot to add Clutch, Flywheel, and Pressure Plate. LOL
 

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Two questions: 1) Was this a 4-cyl or V6? 2) Does your cruise control still work? My cruise hasn't worked on the wagon since the swap.
 

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Cool. I thought it probably had something to do with the NSS. Also, I don't think the NSS has to be grounded to the frame. Mine is ziptied to a transmission bracket and works fine.
 

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Turbo Snail
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Discussion Starter #6
With mine, when i didnt have the NSS bolted down, all it did was Spark every once in a while and wouldnt start. Thats why i bolted it down.

I think if the NSS could go into "D" the cruise might work? Maybe not though because the shift solenoids arent connected. I dunno. hehe
 

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I have a theory on that involving some creative wiring and the clutch switch, but I need an extra car to drive while I fuss with it.
 

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Neither is mine. That's kinda what I'm getting at. This is the write up I wanted to do on my swap, but everthing got too hectic in the middle of doing it.
 

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Why did you not include the 96?
It's a gen 3 still it just has obd2.

Also i have a complete donor 95 dx and a 96 auto le should I keep auto ecm with odb2 or go straight 5speed everything not worried about amount of work just want to keep this car for a while and do mods down the road.
 
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