92 Camry rear bearing vibration
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is your tire balance?
i think so.if you check it is better.
the bearing is expensive
bearings will shift pitch at speed. At a speed of 35 to 45 windows up, air off, radio off, listen as you drive straight down a smooth paved road. Now take a slow left, turn right, turn left shifting the cars weight from side to side.
Bad bearings will make noise as they become loaded. The right rear would likely make noise when you turn left and weight is transferred to the rightside.
Beyond that, block the car, jack the rear, have a helper spin the wheel (brake off), place stethoscope to the hub area. If it sounds like gravel, its bad or going bad. It more likely you hear the wisp of the brakes dragging. Try not to confuse the two.
Listen to the engines alternator for perspective on a bearing. It'll be loud with a stick to you ear.
hint: broom handles cut down, long screw drivers, and stethoscope are handy for listening to noises. Use a paper towel tube to listen to vacuum leaks, coil sparks jumping, ect. . .
How many miles on the 92?
Bad bearings will make noise as they become loaded. The right rear would likely make noise when you turn left and weight is transferred to the rightside.
Beyond that, block the car, jack the rear, have a helper spin the wheel (brake off), place stethoscope to the hub area. If it sounds like gravel, its bad or going bad. It more likely you hear the wisp of the brakes dragging. Try not to confuse the two.
Listen to the engines alternator for perspective on a bearing. It'll be loud with a stick to you ear.
hint: broom handles cut down, long screw drivers, and stethoscope are handy for listening to noises. Use a paper towel tube to listen to vacuum leaks, coil sparks jumping, ect. . .
How many miles on the 92?
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173 Posts
73Sport/AliRaZOR: Thanks for the tips.
I'm prettry sure I have a bad left rear bearing - it will start grinding at 65 mph but not every time I get up to that speed. It eventually smooths out after about 2 minutes of driving but it is getting more frequent.
It has 173K miles. Not flooded - western PA climate - garage kept most of the time -some severe use - no hitch. Did you have to replace the rear bearings on your 95? If so do you remember at what mileage?
I'm prettry sure I have a bad left rear bearing - it will start grinding at 65 mph but not every time I get up to that speed. It eventually smooths out after about 2 minutes of driving but it is getting more frequent.
It has 173K miles. Not flooded - western PA climate - garage kept most of the time -some severe use - no hitch. Did you have to replace the rear bearings on your 95? If so do you remember at what mileage?
Not yet. 95 has 226,xxx miles on it. Since 2005 its been pushed into the corners hard since 142,000 when I took ownership and no problems yet.
Can you please try to describe your perception of vibration vs grinding? I'm just trying to separate tire/wheel vibration from bearing noise.
Also, if you pulled the brake drum off, you might be able to see where grease came out of the bearing and more importantly feel the bearing by turning it.
I have had a wb explode and lock up a wheel. Not a pleasant experience but I would say is very rare. Most just get noisy and you find yourself having to pump the brake pedal as the added free-play at the hub/rotor/drum pushes the brake pistons in further as the braking surface no longer runs true.
Synapses of bearing failure:
1) seals let the grease out or the hardening if either the balls or the inner/outer race fail
2) w/out grease or with the induction of particles in the bearing it wears to an audible point making noise.
3) as the wear and noise continue, the bearing may develop some free play that can be felt/measured.
4) the surface hardening breaks away either A) creates lots of tiny particle or b) larger parts of material depart sometimes destroying the bearing cage and then the bearing has catastrophic failure.
edit: 1a, would be time and heat harden the seals that let the grease out, that let the dirt and/or water in ect then failure takes on 1, 2, 3, 4 . . .
Can you please try to describe your perception of vibration vs grinding? I'm just trying to separate tire/wheel vibration from bearing noise.
Also, if you pulled the brake drum off, you might be able to see where grease came out of the bearing and more importantly feel the bearing by turning it.
I have had a wb explode and lock up a wheel. Not a pleasant experience but I would say is very rare. Most just get noisy and you find yourself having to pump the brake pedal as the added free-play at the hub/rotor/drum pushes the brake pistons in further as the braking surface no longer runs true.
Synapses of bearing failure:
1) seals let the grease out or the hardening if either the balls or the inner/outer race fail
2) w/out grease or with the induction of particles in the bearing it wears to an audible point making noise.
3) as the wear and noise continue, the bearing may develop some free play that can be felt/measured.
4) the surface hardening breaks away either A) creates lots of tiny particle or b) larger parts of material depart sometimes destroying the bearing cage and then the bearing has catastrophic failure.
edit: 1a, would be time and heat harden the seals that let the grease out, that let the dirt and/or water in ect then failure takes on 1, 2, 3, 4 . . .
Here is a much easier test...
1) Jack and secure the vehicle with jack stands or axle stands.
2) Try to rotate the tire from side to side and up and down. Ie) Is there play when you try to move the tire in and out from when your hands are placed in the 9 and 3 position and the 12 and 6 position.
4) Check your rear lateral arms for play in the bushings. Just because your tire moves, it does not mean it is the bearing. Sometimes the movement can come from a worn bushin in the lateral arm.
The bearings in question you can get from a junk yard. It is easier to pull the hub and replace it, rather than try to press a new bearing into a hub with a worn bearing. Sometimes the bearing will have taking the bearing race out of round causing the new bearing to not fit correctly.
Click here for a cross check on your part number. http://www.car-part.com/
From there you can check your local wreckers or a pick and pull online inventory to see what they have in stock. :thumbsup:
1) Jack and secure the vehicle with jack stands or axle stands.
2) Try to rotate the tire from side to side and up and down. Ie) Is there play when you try to move the tire in and out from when your hands are placed in the 9 and 3 position and the 12 and 6 position.
4) Check your rear lateral arms for play in the bushings. Just because your tire moves, it does not mean it is the bearing. Sometimes the movement can come from a worn bushin in the lateral arm.
The bearings in question you can get from a junk yard. It is easier to pull the hub and replace it, rather than try to press a new bearing into a hub with a worn bearing. Sometimes the bearing will have taking the bearing race out of round causing the new bearing to not fit correctly.
Click here for a cross check on your part number. http://www.car-part.com/
From there you can check your local wreckers or a pick and pull online inventory to see what they have in stock. :thumbsup:
Joined
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173 Posts
Possible worn bearing
I'm driving along and all of a sudden it feels like I lost the tread and it sounds like an airplane engine (propeller). After about 2 minutes it gradually dissapates.
YIKES! I'd roll into your local tire shop, have them hoist it. Give the suspect wheel a spin to confirm and head straight to the parts counter/bone yard and grab a bearing.
THAT doesn't sound like something that goes unnoticed and could damage other parts!
Park it until repairs are made.
Video/audio to add to the trouble shooting threads. . . ???????
THAT doesn't sound like something that goes unnoticed and could damage other parts!
Park it until repairs are made.
Video/audio to add to the trouble shooting threads. . . ???????
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14,392 Posts
azcat90 - if you're interested in DIY'ing the rear bearing replacement, I posted one a while back; it's a pretty easy job...
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235838
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235838
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14,392 Posts
Thanks 73sport!
The vibrating actually started sometime before 200k; not sure when. It wasn't too bad at first, I just put up with it for a very long time. At first, turning the rotors would make it go away for a little while; like 10k miles or so. But it slowly got worse and worse. At one point I put a new set of tires on it and it improved a bunch, but still there. At that point, I suspected the wheel bearings were running a bit wobbly and screwing up the rotors, tire balance, and even tire roundness. That suspicion was what finally convinced me to try replacing wheel bearings, and it was correct.
In hindsight, one of the four (the drivers-side rear) wasn't all that bad. But yeah, they were all contributing to the vibration to some degree.
305k on it now. The cheapy $100 eBay wheel bearing is still holding up! (crosses fingers & knocks on wood)
The vibrating actually started sometime before 200k; not sure when. It wasn't too bad at first, I just put up with it for a very long time. At first, turning the rotors would make it go away for a little while; like 10k miles or so. But it slowly got worse and worse. At one point I put a new set of tires on it and it improved a bunch, but still there. At that point, I suspected the wheel bearings were running a bit wobbly and screwing up the rotors, tire balance, and even tire roundness. That suspicion was what finally convinced me to try replacing wheel bearings, and it was correct.
In hindsight, one of the four (the drivers-side rear) wasn't all that bad. But yeah, they were all contributing to the vibration to some degree.
305k on it now. The cheapy $100 eBay wheel bearing is still holding up! (crosses fingers & knocks on wood)
another thing to check when you have the rear of the car in the air is each of the bushings on the four lateral control rods. the bushings were and vibration can be caused as well as poor rear alignment and shifting over bumps and during windy conditions. this is preventative maitenance and will give you piece of mind in diagnosing your rear vibrations.
If you are going to do the repairs yourself, I have posted this many times, but I always like to take the opportunity in case other members havn't seen my posts. I offer 30% off MSRP to TN members. I only charge actual shipping costs plus $1.00 - $2.00 for materials, etc. I have a few customers in the PA area already and have been satisfied. So, if you need parts, or any other information, I'll do my best to help out. If I don't have the answer, I'll tell you and do my best to find out.
Good luck
Good luck
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173 Posts
I replaced both rear wheel bearings and the problem is still happening.
I am thinking it is worn rear control arm bushings or a parking brake shoe hanging up on the inside of the left rear rotor drum occasionally. There is not much else it could be I think. I told my son to take it to Monro to get a diagnosis.
I am thinking it is worn rear control arm bushings or a parking brake shoe hanging up on the inside of the left rear rotor drum occasionally. There is not much else it could be I think. I told my son to take it to Monro to get a diagnosis.
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