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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, great site.

I was wondering if anyone knows the correct way to install the small spring
that controls the self adjust lever on the rear brake Drum.

I am currently working on the Right Rear side.
Would the longer hooked end of the spring face the rear of the car,into the
hole of the shoe and the joggled end fit into the adjuster lever ?
(Uneducated guess...)

Thank's
 

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00 rolla VE
2000 Corolla
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460 Posts
i believe the longer hook of the spring goes with the star wheel side of the adjuster which should point to the back of the car

if all else fails, just take the drum off of the left side of the car and see how it's supposed to be installed. i was taught to work on brakes one side at a time
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have had the car for a year or so.

The front rotor's were worn out when I got it.
I replaced everything on the front and adjusted the rear shoes.

The front calipers wore out fairly quick (6 months...?)

I then replaced the rotors and pads up front again.

I just purchased new rear drums.pads and a spring kit,thats when I
noticed the new small spring.

The spring was not there on either side on the original set-up.
[email protected]#$% knob...

Thus the premature wear on the front.

Anyway....I think the way I installed the spring will work ,
you can hear the lever click as the star is turned to expand the shoes.

Thanks for the reply

Regard's
 

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One thing I have learned over and over again ever since my first car 21 years ago:

Always take a photo of the drum before messing with it!:hammer:

Each time with a new car I keep thinking I'm too good to need a photo and each time it takes three hours to put the first side back on:disappoin

It's not that I don't understand the mechanics, I just forget the drum layout every 5 years when it's time. Also, in the case of this car, I took the driver's off first and the Haynes book had a picture of the passenger's side making things really fun while drunk.:headbang:
 

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00 rolla VE
2000 Corolla
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460 Posts
can you post a picture?

as far as i know, for each drum, there are 2 hold-down springs (one for each shoe), one retaining spring (connects the two shoes together at the bottom), and one return spring (which wraps around the self adjuster and hooks the two brake shoes together right under the brake cylinder.

if the return springs were not there, it would cause premature wear in the back, not the front, since the shoes will be dragging on the drums all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
http://s678.photobucket.com/albums/vv148/chymaspics/

Sorry I could not figure out how to post without the link

This is a pic of the RR Rear assembly

2 hold down springs (1 shown)

1 Bottom retaining spring (its there)

The return spring is there too.
(The spring that goes around the adjusting screw
and attaches to each shoe under the cylinder)

The close up is of the spring included in the kit

The auto adjust lever that wipes the star wheel shares the
same pivit pin as the emergency brake actuator arm.

The auto adjust lever is behind the emergency brake arm,
pivoting on the same pin at the top of the left hand shoe.

The adjust lever and emergency brake arm are removed from the old shoe
and re-assembled to the new shoe.
The kit came with new replacement cir-clip type retainers. ( cool...)

In my opinion,the reason the front brakes wore out is because the
back brakes were never auto adjusted after the initial manual adjustment was made.

The spring that is shown forces the auto adjust lever down atop the star wheel.
With this spring missing,the auto adjust lever would just lay on the star
wheel at best,I dont see it doing much else

.....or am I wrong ????

Regards
 

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miles???
I changed my shoes at probably 100k miles. They did not need changing at that time but I did it anyway. They may have been changed at 50k when I bought it but I doubt. These rotors just don't need a lot to stop them. Also I purchased cheap shoes at autozone. I recall they were like $10. Looking back I would have bought dealer brakes for four times that if I would have had a way to get rid of the constant squeeks:spanking:

Is there any way you can yank off the wheel again to get a good frontal shot? It could look right but actually be wrong. After I changed mine (again without a photo:headbang:) I think I had one of the little springs on the bottom backwards. The result was a brake failure due to the wheel cylinder not having resistance against it because a spring was hung up on something which resulted in it exploding all over the drum and the brake pressure dropping to 0.
 

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'03 Sequoia
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416 Posts
Big hint also to help with the self adjusting. While you have it apart remove the star wheel assembly and clean/wirebrush thoroughly. When reassembling use some anti-seize in the threads and work it a couple times. I prefer the copper high heat http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...ts/Permatex_Copper_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_b.htm (available at most Advance/Checkers/NAPA etc.) for all my brake jobs as once my friend (BMW mechanic) showed me some of the ones they did at the shop it was a big difference over normal "caliper grease" stuff. They use it on all the "contact" points front and rear even where the shoes touch the backing plate.

Many cars and SUV's use the emergency/parking brake to adjust the rear drums. If you look at the pictures you'll probably see part of the adjustment tab moves more when you pull the lever that the brake cable goes to. I was CONSTANTLY readjusting the star wheel manually (which didn't move rear easy all the time) since my parking brake would loose holding strength as the shoes wouldn't readjust by themselves. On a stick shift obviously the brake gets used daily. Once I took it all apart and cleaned and used the anti-seize on those parts, never had a problem again. Many also move more when you apply the parking brake while backing up slightly as the shoes shift a little.

My Wifes old Ford Explorer and friends Tundra had the same problem of CONSTANTLY eating front brakes (every 12k). Same issue the star wheel was frozen and rears were barely doing crap to help stop. They were automatics and the parking brake was NEVER used so the levers never moved to hit the star wheel. Same deal, took apart, cleaned, anti-seized, and made parking brake use at least once per week mandatory. Front pads went 22k and the trucks stopped MUCH better. Amazing when all four brakes actually grab like they should.
 
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