Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My car will not start it doesn't turn at all. I replaced the starter relay and nothing, battery is good. The starter itself works.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,403 Posts
Might do a TN search as others have had this exact problem.

Replaced starter relay or solenoid?

Apply 12V DC to the small terminal on the starter solenoid and determine if the engine cranks. If so the problem is in the starter circuit (energized by ign switch to start engine). If not the issue is not these circuit but the power circuit from the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The engine does start when I apply 12V DC I will do a TN search. Looks like it's from Ign. switch. I replaced once the starter relay and it worked fine then it died, tested the relay and it is good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,149 Posts
The next time it doesn't start, get a wrench or a small hammer and tap the starter's solenoid with the tool. If the car now starts, you have identified the common starter solenoid worn contacts problem. If this is the case, do a search on this forum for "starter contacts" and read up on the problem and it's repair choices.

Mike
 

·
Ninja wrench anywhere
Joined
·
1,522 Posts
My car will not start it doesn't turn at all. I replaced the starter relay and nothing, battery is good. The starter itself works.
If you turn the key enough times, does it eventually start to crank? If so, has this been getting gradually worse, or did it one day refuse to crank, no matter what?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
No it doesn't turn at all. I used to move the cable that goes to the starter and then it would start. Then it stopped, so I replaced the starter relay and it worked fine for some time. Dead again this time the relay is good but it doesn't crank. All lights in dashboard go on but there is only a slight click when I try to turn it on. i can start the car with a wire from battery to starter nothing else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,149 Posts
"there is only a slight click"

That is usually another indication of worn starter solenoid contacts. Try tapping the starter's solenoid as I suggested above and see if it starts.

Mike
 

·
Ninja wrench anywhere
Joined
·
1,522 Posts
"there is only a slight click"

That is usually another indication of worn starter solenoid contacts. Try tapping the starter's solenoid as I suggested above and see if it starts.

Mike
The history doesn't really fit, 'tho. Solenoid contacts normally fail gradually -- a couple of key turns at first, then three, four...until the owner finally gets annoyed enough to get the problem fixed.

The symptom "I can start the car with a wire from the battery to the starter nothing else" sounds more like a flakey cable or connection in the leads to the starter, especially since he can hear a slight click (the starter relay) when he turns the ignition switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ok I will say it again, the problem started with the smaller cable that goes to the starter it was loose I got that fixed. Then the starter relay went I replaced it and the car would start without a problem until now the car will not start. I bought a new battery the only way the car starts is by putting a cable from + to the small cable of the starter SO WHAT IS IT THAT DOES NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO START???????
 

·
Camry: 94-I4 and 94-V6
Joined
·
140 Posts
> until now the car will not start. I bought a new battery the only way the car starts is by putting a cable from + to the small cable of the starter

A) If you are getting a clicking sound AT THE STARTER, usually your starter is still okay (that clicking sound IS your starter solenoid). It seems that your battery may be low (alternator too old to fully charge the battery), but enough to power your lights (it takes alot of power in 2 seconds to crank the starter). Try jump starting it (with the other car motor running), then install a new battery (had it happened to me).

B) The second most likely cause is your starter solenoid (contact). In this case, the clicking noise you hear COME FROM THE STARTER-RELAY, NOT THE STARTER-SOLENOID, when ignition key is turned to start position. Starter does not operate but lights and radio still works. Therefore, you'll need to change the starter or try to change the solenoid-contact (inside starter).

Ok I will say it again, the problem started with the smaller cable that goes to the starter it was loose I got that fixed. Then the starter relay went I replaced it and the car would start without a problem until now the car will not start. I bought a new battery the only way the car starts is by putting a cable from + to the small cable of the starter SO WHAT IS IT THAT DOES NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO START???????
 

·
Ninja wrench anywhere
Joined
·
1,522 Posts
Ok I will say it again, the problem started with the smaller cable that goes to the starter it was loose I got that fixed. Then the starter relay went I replaced it and the car would start without a problem until now the car will not start. I bought a new battery the only way the car starts is by putting a cable from + to the small cable of the starter SO WHAT IS IT THAT DOES NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO START???????
OK, let's bring the ol' FSM into the picture. Take a look at http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen3/st.pdf . Now, page ST-3 is the diagram of your rig's starting system. The upper part of the box labelled "starter" in the diagram (with "terminal 30" on one end, "terminal 50" on the other, and including the "plunger" and the "contact plate") are all part of what we are referring to as the "starter solenoid" -- it's intimately connected to the starter, but is seperately replaceable or rebuildable. If you look at the starter assembly, there are two big bolt-looking contacts sticking out -- one is "terminal 30", which connects to a big honkin' cable directly from the battery. The other bolt-contact ("terminal C") has a short, thick jumper down to the actual starter. "terminal 50" is a smallish plastic connector going to the solenoid part of the starter, and has a relatively small wire going from it up to the starter relay.

Now, based on your description of the problem, if you jumper directly from the battery to "terminal C", your starter will turn over. Pretty much says the starter itself is golden. Also, you've replaced the starter relay, and you say you hear a smallish "click" when you try to start the rig. To me, that says that the starter relay is making. You can confirm this by listening at the starter relay location (see page ST-2 of the FSM).

Now, assuming the starter relay is making, and the starter itself is OK, what's left?

(1) The big honkin' cable from the battery to "terminal 30" (and it's associated connectors).
(2) The little wire from the starter relay to "terminal 50".
(3) The internals of the starter solenoid.

Now, #3 is insanely common -- the internal contacts and, to a lesser extent, the contact plate of the plunger eventually wear to the point where they no longer make contact. http://www.startercontacts.com/ , among other suppliers, sell replacement contacts and plungers so you can rebuild the starter solenoid yourself -- it's very easy, and far preferable to buying a rebuilt starter of questionable origin. If you're seeing 12+ volts at "terminal 30" and "terminal 50" while you're trying to crank the motor, you're pretty much guaranteed the solenoid is toast. And, the vast majority of the time, the problem is those contacts and plunger (and you can slop the job and just replace the contacts and wire-brush the plunger and get lots of miles out of the fix). Occasionally, the solenoid coil itself (the squiggle that "terminal 50" is connected to) burns out, but that's pretty rare. If you'd like, see the inspection procedure on page ST-16 of the FSM (where they refer to the starter solenoid as the "magnetic swtich") for instructions on how to double-check the solenoid coil.

HTH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Great info hill8570 but I'm not getting any voltage from the small cable that connects to the starter when I turn the key. Could it be the switch itself? I tryied tracing this wire and it looks like it goes to the igniter..... The color is black and red. The clicking sound is when I put it to start position from there to actually starting there is no sound at all.
 

·
Ninja wrench anywhere
Joined
·
1,522 Posts
Great info hill8570 but I'm not getting any voltage from the small cable that connects to the starter when I turn the key. Could it be the switch itself? I tryied tracing this wire and it looks like it goes to the igniter..... The color is black and red. The clicking sound is when I put it to start position from there to actually starting there is no sound at all.
OK. No voltage on "terminal 50". The black-red wire is coming from the starter relay (see page 72 of the electrical diagram at http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen3/General/camry94wiring.pdf ). There is also a black-red wire connected to the igniter (see page 73 of the same diagram), but it's a *different* black-red wire.

Anyhow, back to page 72 of the electrical diagram. If you look what's feeding down to "terminal 50" on the starter solenoid, you've got the starter relay, which connects into junction 2C, and a black-red wire goes down to splice point E20 and the black-red wire continues to the starter solenoid (I'll ignore the other branch from splice E20 for now). What I'd first do is pop loose the wire from "terminal 50" on the starter solenoid, run a jumper down from from the battery to that connection on the solenoid and see if it cranks -- that let's you know that the starter solenoid is mostly likely good. Assuming that works, I'd connect back up the wire to "terminal 50", pop out the starter relay, and connect that jumper from the battery to "pin 5" where the starter relay was. If that cranks, then you've checked the wire harness from the relay box down to the starter solenoid. If it doesn't crank, you have the unenviable task of finding a break in the wire (or connectors, or splice) going from the starter relay to the starter solenoid. If it does crank, check where pin 3 of the relay connects into the junction box. If you're not getting 12V there (even with the ignition switch off) then check that 40A Main fuse upstream from the relay -- it's likely toast. If you *do* have 12V at pin 3, then try jumpering across from pin 3 to pin 5 -- that should also crank. If it does, then I'd test the starter relay using the procedure in the FSM (although, since you said you'd just replaced it, I wouldn't think it would be toast again). If all that checks out, then I guess we'll have to troubleshoot the key switch & Park / Neutral switch path. Let me know what you find out.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top