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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Its alllliiivvvveee!!!

I went by Autozone after work tonight and purchased a new ignition rotor, distributor cap, and compression tester. I spent a couple of minutes and eyeballed where I thought the distributor was position-wise prior to all of my tinkering, then I replaced the rotor, and cap while very carefully making sure all of the plug wires were seated properly and matched up. A fully charged battery later and I chronicled my results in the following video:

http://youtu.be/3YNqv1euGfc

My biggest remaining problems would be the nasty exhaust and the original oil leak that started this whole mess. Any suggestions on things to check before heading out on the road, or possible causes of the smokey-ness? Thankyou in advance for all the help guys, you basically fixed my car and saved me a bunch of cash.
 

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My biggest remaining problems would be the nasty exhaust and the original oil leak that started this whole mess. Any suggestions on things to check before heading out on the road, or possible causes of the smokey-ness? Thankyou in advance for all the help guys, you basically fixed my car and saved me a bunch of cash.

Smoke coming from the tailpipe is not good news, but does not necessarily mean the engine needs rebuilding. First, you need to determine what color of smoke is coming from the tailpipe. The three most common colors of smoke that can be emitted from the engine and billow from the tailpipe are as follows:
White smoke: White smoke is caused by water and or antifreeze entering the cylinder, and the engine trying to burn it with the fuel. The white smoke is steam. There are special gaskets (head gaskets are the primary gaskets) that keep the antifreeze from entering the cylinder area. The cylinder is where the fuel and air mixture are being compressed and burned. Any amount of antifreeze that enters this area will produce a white steam that will be present at the tailpipe area.

If white smoke is present, check to see if the proper amount of antifreeze is inside the radiator and the overflow bottle. Also check to see if antifreeze has contaminated the engine oil. You can look at the engine oil dipstick, or look at the under side of the engine oil filler cap. If the oil is contaminated with antifreeze, it will have the appearance of a chocolate milkshake. Do not start the engine if the oil is contaminated with antifreeze, as serious internal engine damage can result.

How did antifreeze get in the oil or cylinder in the first place? The engine probably overheated and a head gasket failed due to excessive heat, thus allowing antifreeze to enter the cylinder (Where it is not meant to be).

Blue Smoke: Blue smoke is caused by engine oil entering the cylinder area and being burned along with the fuel air mixture. As with the white smoke, just a small drop of oil leaking into the cylinder can produce blue smoke out the tailpipe. Blue smoke is more likely in older or higher mileage vehicles than newer cars with fewer miles.

How did the engine oil get inside the cylinder in the first place? The car has many seals, gaskets, and O-rings that are designed to keep the engine oil from entering the cylinder, and one of them has failed. If too much oil leaks into the cylinder and fouls the spark plug, it will cause a misfire (engine miss) in that cylinder, and the spark plug will have to be replaced or cleaned of the oil. Using thicker weight engine oil or an oil additive designed to reduce oil leaks might help reduce the amount of oil leaking into the cylinder.

Black Smoke: Black smoke is caused by excess fuel that has entered the cylinder area and cannot be burned completely. Another term for excess fuel is "running rich." Poor fuel mileage is also a common complaint when black smoke comes out of the tailpipe. Black smoke out the tailpipe is the least cause for alarm. Excess fuel will usually effect engine performance, reduce fuel economy, and produce a fuel odor.

How did the fuel get into the cylinder in the first place? Some of the causes of excess fuel are a carburetor that is out of adjustment, a faulty fuel pump
, a leaky fuel injector, or a faulty engine computer or computer sensor. If black smoke is present, check the engine oil as in the white smoke example to make sure excess fuel has not contaminated it. Do not start the engine if a heavy, raw fuel smell can be detected in the engine oil. Call your mechanic and advise him of what you have found.

I hope this helps you determine what could be causing your engine smoke, and the possible reasons behind the smoke.

The above is credited to http://www.trustmymechanic.com
 

· 抵抗しても無駄だ
2002 Solara SLE V6
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9,097 Posts
do you have CEL on by any chance?

black smoke would be from running rich (incomplete combustion, spitting fuel).
make sure you did not knock off some ground wires or electrical plugs while working around engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Rock

Thank you all once again for your awesome replies and great ideas. I think I have the smoke issue resolved, my timing was just eyeballed so I bought that timing light, connect the correct terminals, at first I was freaked out because my check engine light was on but then I realized it meant I had bridged the right e1/te1.

Once I had the car warmed up I was able to rotate the distributor until the car was set to 10 degrees BTDC and the smoke and rough idle were magically cleared up. Once that was fixed, I had to troubleshoot a stuck thermostat, but a trip to autozone later I was set once again.

So onto my new problem (do they ever end?...) I can't retighten to crank pulley bolt. I know many of you have constructed your own unique tools to accomplish this, but honestly, I don't have access to the tools or the skills needed to fabricate such a device. I've called every auto parts and equipment rental place in town and no one has this tool. The dealership doesn't rent the tool but they sell it for around $150... Kind of lame...

I'm thinking of using an electric impact wrench, which is what I used to remove it but since the torque on this bolt is so low, I don't want to mess something up. I'm open to all ideas as this is the only thing keeping me off the road right now. I tried once method I saw posted on toyotarepairvideos.com which stated that you could "put the car in drive with the engine off and have someone sit in the drivers seat with their foot on the brake (which is supposed to immobilize it) while you tighten the crank pulley. " Totally doesn't work.
 

· 抵抗しても無駄だ
2002 Solara SLE V6
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9,097 Posts
grats! gj! :)

crank bolt torque is 80ft-lbs IIRC, and you can use the universal cam/pulley holder to block it against frame or axle or something and be able to torque it down.

I used this tool:
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-38220-Universal-Cam-Adjuster/dp/B0002SQZPO[/ame]



you would have to remove the original "bolts" from tool and use big washers (M6) and a pair of at least 50mm long hex head bolts M6x1.00 from Home Depot or Autozone to screw it into the 2 service holes in crank pulley.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-239.html



(they sell them on promo at $12-15 sometimes)

then use the 1/2'' torque wrench (like one above click-stop type from Harbor Freight Tools) and a socket (17mm or 19mm never remember).
 

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Remove starter and wedge something into the flywheel to hold the crank still while you tighten the crank nut.

You shouldnt have to take the starter off. There is a flywheel cover at the bottom of the flywheel. You will also have to take off a engine to transmission holding bracket. Once these two things are off, use a flat head screwdriver to between the teeth where the coverspace runs out to stop the crank assembly from turning. Once this is done you can tighten the bolt to 80ft-lbs no problem.
 

· 2001 Camry XLE 1MZ-FE
2001 Camry XLE
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1,741 Posts
Once this is done you can tighten the bolt to 80ft-lbs no problem.

Hmm...I don't know about the 4cyl crankshaft bolt, but the torque specs on my 1MZ-FE 6cyl crankshaft bolt is 160 ft/lbs. You would think that they would be the same...maybe not. :dunno:


.
 

· 抵抗しても無駄だ
2002 Solara SLE V6
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9,097 Posts
Hmm...I don't know about the 4cyl crankshaft bolt, but the torque specs on my 1MZ-FE 6cyl crankshaft bolt is 160 ft/lbs. You would think that they would be the same...maybe not. :dunno:


.
no, it's 80ft-lbs on 5s-fe 4cyl (gen4), just double checked with Engine Mechanical i4 FSM.
 

· Registered
96'Camry, 88'Corolla
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417 Posts
Thank you all once again for your awesome replies and great ideas. I think I have the smoke issue resolved, my timing was just eyeballed so I bought that timing light, connect the correct terminals, at first I was freaked out because my check engine light was on but then I realized it meant I had bridged the right e1/te1.

Once I had the car warmed up I was able to rotate the distributor until the car was set to 10 degrees BTDC and the smoke and rough idle were magically cleared up. Once that was fixed, I had to troubleshoot a stuck thermostat, but a trip to autozone later I was set once again.

So onto my new problem (do they ever end?...) I can't retighten to crank pulley bolt. I know many of you have constructed your own unique tools to accomplish this, but honestly, I don't have access to the tools or the skills needed to fabricate such a device. I've called every auto parts and equipment rental place in town and no one has this tool. The dealership doesn't rent the tool but they sell it for around $150... Kind of lame...

I'm thinking of using an electric impact wrench, which is what I used to remove it but since the torque on this bolt is so low, I don't want to mess something up. I'm open to all ideas as this is the only thing keeping me off the road right now. I tried once method I saw posted on toyotarepairvideos.com which stated that you could "put the car in drive with the engine off and have someone sit in the drivers seat with their foot on the brake (which is supposed to immobilize it) while you tighten the crank pulley. " Totally doesn't work.
The way I torqued that bolt, is remove the flexplate/flywheel cover and jam screwdriver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Not sure what this flywheel cover is exactly, is it something I would need the lower timing belt cover off to access? If anyone has a picture I would greatly appreciate it, but if not I'll take a few photos of what I'm looking at this evening, really appreciate the ideas guys!
 

· 2001 Camry XLE 1MZ-FE
2001 Camry XLE
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1,741 Posts
no, it's 80ft-lbs on 5s-fe 4cyl (gen4), just double checked with Engine Mechanical i4 FSM.
Right you are, but I wonder why Toyota opted for such whimp gauge torque specs for the 4 cyl engine. I've never worked on one, and have never seen the crank bolt, but is it a smallish bolt. They got with the program on the 6cyl and went for the big dick bolt, and torque specs to match. :D




.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Back after many months

Too many weeks of driving my moms '91 Previa, time to get this dumb bolt tightened, replace my oil pan gasket and be done. I'm such a horrible procrastinator, does anyone know the thread size on the holes in the crank pulley?

I plan to order this tool from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q8GVPY/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=



Set Includes:
  • 21” Pulley Wrench
  • 4 pairs of interchangeable pins
    • OTC-4754-1 11mm/16mm
    • OTC-4754-2 8mm/11mm
    • OTC-4754-3 10mm/12mm
    • OTC-4754-4 6mm/10mm
From reading the reviews it seems at least some of the people who've purchased it have been successful.

Or this tool:

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6613-Variable-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B000F5JMEA/ref=pd_sim_auto_5



Kit Includes:
  • 3.5 mm pin
  • 4 mm pin
  • 4.5 mm pin
  • 5 mm pin
  • 6 mm pin
  • 7 mm pin
  • 10 mm pin
  • Handle
  • Plastic storage case
I'm just not sure which one of these is going to work better... Any tips?
 

· 抵抗しても無駄だ
2002 Solara SLE V6
Joined
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9,097 Posts
get this:
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-38220-Universal-Cam-Adjuster/dp/B0002SQZPO[/ame]


$32.14 with free shipping

and a pair of M6x1.00 bolts (50mm long) from Home Depot with a M6 washers and some M6 nuts.

note that M6 bolts will get destroyed in process (80ft-lbs torque on the nut is a lot).
 

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205 Posts
Too many weeks of driving my moms '91 Previa, time to get this dumb bolt tightened, replace my oil pan gasket and be done. I'm such a horrible procrastinator, does anyone know the thread size on the holes in the crank pulley?

I plan to order this tool from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q8GVPY/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=



Set Includes:
  • 21” Pulley Wrench
  • 4 pairs of interchangeable pins
    • OTC-4754-1 11mm/16mm
    • OTC-4754-2 8mm/11mm
    • OTC-4754-3 10mm/12mm
    • OTC-4754-4 6mm/10mm
From reading the reviews it seems at least some of the people who've purchased it have been successful.

Or this tool:

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6613-Variable-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B000F5JMEA/ref=pd_sim_auto_5



Kit Includes:
  • 3.5 mm pin
  • 4 mm pin
  • 4.5 mm pin
  • 5 mm pin
  • 6 mm pin
  • 7 mm pin
  • 10 mm pin
  • Handle
  • Plastic storage case
I'm just not sure which one of these is going to work better... Any tips?
DO NOT GET THE SECOND TOOL!!! I bought it and it didn't work. :facepalm: The pins are not long enough to accurately hold the crank pulley or the cam pulley. Made this mistake while rebuilding my 5sfe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Awesome

Thanks for the warning sir! I just bought the tool Fenrix reccomended off of Amazon, I'm heading to get the bolts tonight, thank you all for your help I'll let you know how it goes more than likely Tuesday-Wednesday night I should be tackling this.
 
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