94 geo prism won't start, but did yesterday

I had the same problem with my 1995 Corolla... turned out to be my coil, $40 at Autozone or OReilly's. Sounds like you may be due for plugs cap and wires anyway so that might be a good place to start. My 1993 Ford van would not start when it rained and it was the distributor cap.

You might also just try removing the cap and wiping it dry and spray some WD40 in the cap as well. (WD40 removes water). Good luck!

Same thing happened to me for a while when it rained. N i live in oregon, so that was alot.
I replaced the cap rotor and wires, n that fixed it.

I'm waiting for it to dry out now, and then I'll try it again and see if it starts. If so, then I'm thinking replace cap rotor, if it doesn't I'll try the iginition coil. Your thoughts?

wiscdave said:

I'm waiting for it to dry out now, and then I'll try it again and see if it starts. If so, then I'm thinking replace cap rotor, if it doesn't I'll try the iginition coil. Your thoughts?

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Seems like if the plugs, cap and rotor don't fix it the coil is the next easiest cheapest part to try. I hate throwing parts at a problem but sometimes it is the way to go. Especially after reading some horror stories about guys paying $100 for a diagnostics and then the mechanic ends up throwing parts at it anyway costing the guy hundreds of dollars... and this was a dealer!!

I posted in another thread how mine did this and it was the coil even though the coil ohms checked OK.

Definitely make sure you pull the plugs out and dry them off also. If wet (from being flooded since you smell gas) they won't spark as it will just travel along the wet current path. Once out you can change them if they are worn. Definitely check the plug gap. Check for spark when you have one out also to see how it is. IF you have no spark AND cap/rotor are dry you might need a coil and some other stuff. Check my thread and links here http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/engine-and-drivetrain/41290-denso-iridium-problems-concerns/ . Take off the cap, is there an oily film or small puddle of it on the bottom?

Is the 1.6L distributor the same as the 1.8L? If it is let me know before you go buy a new one :thumbsup:

sequoiasoon said:

Definitely make sure you pull the plugs out and dry them off also. If wet (from being flooded since you smell gas) they won't spark as it will just travel along the wet current path. Once out you can change them if they are worn. Definitely check the plug gap. Check for spark when you have one out also to see how it is. IF you have no spark AND cap/rotor are dry you might need a coil and some other stuff. Check my thread and links here http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/engine-and-drivetrain/41290-denso-iridium-problems-concerns/ . Take off the cap, is there an oily film or small puddle of it on the bottom?

Is the 1.6L distributor the same as the 1.8L? If it is let me know before you go buy a new one :thumbsup:

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thanks for the reply guys...

Well it starts when its dry out and not when its raining. If it was the ignition coil would it start the car at all? I'm thinking distributor cap might be cracked. If it was only one bad wire then it would run like crap but still start.

wiscdave said:

thanks for the reply guys...

Well it starts when its dry out and not when its raining. If it was the ignition coil would it start the car at all? I'm thinking distributor cap might be cracked. If it was only one bad wire then it would run like crap but still start.

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I'm betting on bad plug wires. Open the hood at night and move the wires around a litttle bit and see if you can see sparks arcing from wire to wire or wire to ground. Also, open the hood when its running and mist the wires with water from a plant sprayer and see if that causes it to run rough or stall.

Dave my brother start replacing things! lol

Justin727 said:

Dave my brother start replacing things! lol

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LOL, I'm just such a cheap arse that I don't want to put a single dollar into this car that I don't have too ...just had to replace both front axle shafts so that made me feel like I got the shaft as well. I'll try the mist trick and look for spark, feel around and try to get shocked, etc. Thanks guys..glad its FRIDAY!!:clap:

I hear ya. Try looking for the spark and what not see what ya got. heck if I would have kept my old set of factory wires, cap, and rotor I would have sent it all to ya for the cost of shipping...
See if ya come up with any shocking clues

wiscdave said:

LOL, I'm just such a cheap arse that I don't want to put a single dollar into this car that I don't have too ...just had to replace both front axle shafts so that made me feel like I got the shaft as well. I'll try the mist trick and look for spark, feel around and try to get shocked, etc. Thanks guys..glad its FRIDAY!!:clap:

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Justin727 said:

I hear ya. Try looking for the spark and what not see what ya got. heck if I would have kept my old set of factory wires, cap, and rotor I would have sent it all to ya for the cost of shipping...
See if ya come up with any shocking clues

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Cheap arse's unite :thumbsup:. Just cause it's Friday and like almost 80 degrees, I haven't slept yet since my daughters sick making semi delirious, I have the following deal for you, compliments of Justin727.

I DO have my old cap, rotor, wires, plugs (BKR5EYA, and BKR6EYA (in better shape)) that my car ran FINE with before I changed to the $50 NGK wires and Iridium plugs (waste of money). PM me your address (and email) and I'll tell you how much shipping will be along with pictures of the stuff. You decide. Car ran fine if with its thirst for simple green and water at least every couple months. This motor was OFTEN wet with the hose as EVERYTIME I washed it, I rinsed the motor to get the bigger dust off. No mist...deluge only :naughty:

And yeah a bad coil could show only on damp days also if it just starting to go. Just that little extar moisture and it will find the path the least resistance.

jump on it Dave! Stefan is a good guy I just recently ordered some stuff from him! He wont charge ya much for a coil if ya wanna go that route as well

Maybe I missed it. Did you remove and inspect the cap??? That is my obvious first step

-Have someone start the car in darkness while you look for arcing.
-Use tap water from hose to hose down engine bay.
-See if water can get in cap.
-Also see if anything funny is going on in there.
-Check wires (tight boots) next.
-Again in darkness start while inspecting for arcing.

Problem solved 25 bucks later, I replaced the distributor cap. I was able to feel the arc when inspecting while it was wet. Thanks for the help...more miles are on the way

I even did an oil and tranny oil change while she was in the garage.

Good:thumbsup:

You changed the differential too right? (or at least checked the level and color)

kevmac said:

Good:thumbsup:

You changed the differential too right? (or at least checked the level and color)

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No I didn't, would that have been changed when they put in the new axle shafts a couple weeks ago?

should've been

Justin727 said:

should've been

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Sweet, thanks all. Time to rack up the miles...no news is good news now. :naughty:

The differential uses the same DexIII and I would imagine that it lasts as long or longer than the transmission fluid. My point is, don't forget about it or you will be sorry later. That's why I suggest checking it whenever you change the trans fluid. It requires a special hex socket and some extensions. Checking and Filling it is a pain and is probably easier to let a lube shop do, but it can be achieved by using a syringe and a surgical tube to suck some out to inspect and to refill until it overflows the hole. Draining it is easy under the pan so if you are going to go through the steps I suggest then it is only a little further to just change the fluid. I don't know about your question but if in doubt, ask the shop that did the work. I just like to know for sure what exaclty is going on inside the fluid chambers.