94 Runner Starting Problems linger...

4133 Views 31 Replies 5 Participants Last post by jerry carr, Oct 5, 2009

Cakayaq

Discussion Starter · Apr 11, 2009

OK, you all might remember me from an old thread with the black smoke hard start problem. I thought I should start a new one.... as some of what I wrote in that last post was misleading and or has changed. See... the 4 runner was my wife's and I finally gave up and bought her a new Subaru... now I'm driving the 4 runner and since I'm driving it every day I've gotten a better feel for the problem she was having.

Here goes:

1994 4runner V6, I've tested the computer codes and there are none. I've tested the pins on the VAFM and they are all to spec.

In the morning after being cold all night it starts fairly well and much better since I found that hole in the air intake hose between the VAFM and the engine. The remote start almost always works now from about -10 and up.

After I drive it and warm it up well.. maybe running it more than 20 minutes I can turn it off and immediately restart it and it starts ok again.... not great but well.

The problem is when I drive it somewhere and park it for a couple hours and come back to it. The remote start never works, I can crank it and crank it for say 30 seconds without touching the gas pedal and it will start or I can touch the gas pedal some to get it to start quicker but this is where the black smoke comes into play... presumably because I'm making it very rich by touching the gas.

Early on SB5walker said that he thought the tps or vafm since it was bad from the start but now that we/I know it's not nearly as bad at the start as it is during the day after it has sat in some parking lot for more than an hour do you think it could be more the ECT? Where would I find the specs of the ECT in the manual?

OK guys thanks for all the help.

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

offroadracer

· #2 · Aug 22, 2009

I wish I could help, but I don't know either.
My 89 toyota 4 runner V6, auto is not starting now. Smells like it's getting plenty of fuel.
I pulled the fuel filter and it was fine for a day. Now the problem is back. It will turn over but just doesn't fire. I'm getting an error code of 42 for the speed sencor. Would this have anything to do with it??
Please chime in if you have any imfo.

offroadracer

· #3 · Aug 24, 2009

Well I pulled the fuel pump and that worked when I tested it. The screen was supprising clean.
Checked the winding and they were good. So I put back on the floor and hooked it back up. Started looking into the whole ECU thing. Pulled a few things out of the left kick panel and hooked the battery back up. Tried starting it and it started. So I drank a beer and put the tank back in. Thinking the whole time "this thing isn't go to start." Well it started everytime now.
I'm thinking that maybe something got reset when messing with the stuff in the R/H kick panel. Oh yah I did pull the plugs out of the box on the right side too. Hell I don't know, it's running for now.

offroadracer

· #4 · Aug 24, 2009

So much for that idea. Truck just stalled trying to leave stop light and now won't start again. All I know is its got to be the fuel pump.

jetwhine

· #5 · Aug 25, 2009

Try replaceing the fuel pump relay. It might be going bad.

offroadracer

· #6 · Aug 25, 2009

Ok, can you point me in the direction were that might be?

jetwhine

· #7 · Aug 26, 2009 (Edited)

The correct terminology is the "circuit opening relay". And it is usually located on the (as the driver sits) on the right side of the engine compartment on the firewall or under the dash on the righthand side close to the ECM. Usually when the pump quites it quites all together. May be intermittant for a mile or 2 then quites all together. But there is always the odd case (murphys law) that there are grimlins living in the pump! Hope this helps

offroadracer

· #8 · Aug 28, 2009

Thanks.
So I couldn't get the truck started at all the other day. I put new plugs in and it fired up ,but it was really loaded up like it was only running on a few cylinder's. While I was changing the plugs I noticed the oil
level was over full. Maybe from flooding it the other day? I drained some oil to get to the proper level.
Started the truck and it ran great. Went into high idel then dropped once it warmed up. Took it for a spin
and never died. Now I'm doing to change the oil because of the gas that might be in it. Drive it again and check the codes. I'll keep you posted.

offroadracer

· #9 · Aug 29, 2009

Ok got the oil changed and to the proper level.
New plugs.
Truck starts sounds like its missing, motor is idealing but rough. Motor is shaking.
After about 1 minute motor cleans it self out and truck runs fine.
Drove it around the block, shut it off, restarted it, drove home. No problem.
Started it about a half our later and it just turned over never fired.
Waited another half hour, had someone turn it over to see if I could spray some carb cleaner
around or in vaccum lines. Just to see if it would pop or anything. Well it started right off and
ran fine again. WTF
Came back an hour later. Tried starting it again to have it blowing smoke, missing, ideal rough again
exshaused smells like gas. Like its flooded, or not firing on al cylinder's. I'm sure it would of cleaned
it self out, but I just shut it off. So any ideas would be great. I have a 89 V6 EFI 4x4 auto.

offroadracer

· #10 · Aug 30, 2009

Well I looked for the fuel pump relay, but nothing relly jumped out at me.
I've checked the fuel regulater and could hear that ticking.
Checked the throttle position sencor with feeler gage, seemed ok.
Can hear the relay clicking in the Left kick panel when turning the key.
Fuel pump worked after taking it out.
Put some reconditioned plugs in it.
Last night I started up the truck and it started right up, but missing a little. shut it off.
Took the air cleaner out and it seemed like it ran better.
SOOOOOOOO I checked the idle air valve and when I screw it in when the motor is warm, the truck
wants to die. The manual says it shouldn't make a differance when the truck is warm.
It says to check the air valve by removing the two hoses Are they talking about the coolant hoses going into the throttle body?

offroadracer

· #11 · Aug 31, 2009

Drove the truck yesterday with out the air cleaner and ran fine. I know, I'll just start replacing everthing.
temp sencor
fuel reg
air valve
ecu
ekg
I do know one thing. Once I figure this out I'm going to post it, so it is'nt such a big freaken secret!

jerry carr

· #12 · Sep 1, 2009

1994 4wd v6 4 Runner Calif emiss

The cold start injector pumps all the time. Replaced timer, fuel press reg,
coolant sensor. Tried running unplugged engine running too rich. Help

jerry carr

· #13 · Sep 5, 2009

Checking why always battery voltage on cold start wire. I found Ign to starter solenoid connection would make ground to starter body. Replaced starter and found this is how it works. My only option to replace ECU
if not that I do not know.

jetwhine

· #14 · Sep 6, 2009 (Edited)

When these rigs don't start you need to do some trouble shooting.

1) You need to pull a spark plug out and attach the spark plug wire to it and ground it to the engine and try to start the engine and look to see if there is any spark from the plug.

2) When it is not starting check for error codes from the ECU. Maybe when it is not starting it might be triggering a code and then when it starts the code might go away.

3) Remember you need 3 things to make an engine run: Fuel, Ignition , and Air. If one of these is missing it won't run.

You guys have been saying that it is running rough. That makes me think that maybe your ignition system is going bad somewhere ( Coil, Distributor , Etc.

With the cold start system there is usually a timer switch, which will turn on the start circuit and shut it off when the engine is warmed up. If it does not shut off, at idle it will probably run rough and above idle you probably won't notice it.

These are just a few simple things to check. I know that there could be many different reasons why it does not start but you have to do the process of elimination first. Try not to just through parts at it. That gets expensive. But then again sometimes you get lucky. Hope this helps, keep us posted.

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offroadracer

· #15 · Sep 8, 2009 (Edited)

Here's a good one.
Drove the truck to work twice last week. Stopped by the store and smelled gas big time. Turned around and seen gas pooring out of the truck by the right front tire. After further investigation, I noticed it was coming out of the charcoal canister. I didn't really know what to do at that point, so I loosend up the gas cap. Lots of pressure, more then normal. The leak slowed down. When I got out of the store, it wasn't leaking. So I drove the truck home for the weekend.
Started the truck this morning just to see if it would start after sitting for 5 days. It started and was running fine.
Now I'm thinking vent tube or something. I going to do a little search on the charcoal canister now.

jerry carr

· #16 · Sep 8, 2009

offroadracer said:
Here's a good one.
Drove the truck to work twice last week. Stopped by the store and smelled gas big time. Turned around and seen gas pooring out of the truck by the right front tire. After further investigation, I noticed it was coming out of the charcole canister. I didn't really know what to do at that point, so I loosend up the gas cap. Lots of pressure, more then normal. The leak slowed down. When I got out of the store, it wasn't leaking. So I drove the truck home for the weekend.
Started the truck this morning just to see if it would start after sitting for 5 days. It started and was running fine.
Now I'm thinking vent tube or something. I going to do a little search on the charcole canister now.

jerry carr

· #17 · Sep 8, 2009

What I have read the cap should have been vented I checked mine it was okay. Does the vacuum tube
run to charcoal direct from intake beginning or does go through a BVSV before charcoal is way I have seen
on diagram for 1989-93. Mine runs direct may have changed 94 or 95?

dl1027

· #18 · Sep 8, 2009 (Edited)

The OP may be topping off his gas tank which could cause raw gas to be sucked into the canister. Also the gas cap check valve/vent may be bad or clogged. Try a new gas cap and DON'T TOP OFF. You probably should replace the canister too.

jerry carr

· #19 · Sep 8, 2009

jetwhine said:
When these rigs don't start you need to do some trouble shooting.

1) You need to pull a spark plug out and attach the spark plug wire to it and ground it to the engine and try to start the engine and look to see if there is any spark from the plug.

2) When it is not starting check for error codes from the ECU. Maybe when it is not starting it might be triggering a code and then when it starts the code might go away.

3) Remember you need 3 things to make an engine run: Fuel, Ignition , and Air. If one of these is missing it won't run.

You guys have been saying that it is running rough. That makes me think that maybe your ignition system is going bad somewhere ( Coil, Distributor , Etc.

With the cold start system there is usually a timer switch, which will turn on the start circuit and shut it off when the engine is warmed up. If it does not shut off, at idle it will probably run rough and above idle you probably won't notice it.

These are just a few simple things to check. I know that there could be many different reasons why it does not start but you have to do the process of elimination first. Try not to just through parts at it. That gets expensive. But then again sometimes you get lucky. Hope this helps, keep us posted.

jerry carr

· #20 · Sep 8, 2009

Jet Whine by replacing ECU fix cold start problem. Eng still runs bad with lots of black smoke I'm thinking trying another coil.

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

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