[drmax]

Is there a do-it-yourselfer browsing here? If so, I have 2 specific questions.
I am about to replace my timing belt of the vehicle described in title area.

#1. Is there a way around buying the specific tool to compress the tensioner while tensioner still mounted on truck? Per another online source of info, this would allow the A/C unit to remain bolted on truck. I understand you can cut the belt, remove the tensioner, place it in a vice, compress in then pin it for installation, but then I'd be "unsure" of how to un-pin it once installed.
I simply dunno.
#2. Is it necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley? One source of info. states this to be done, another does not even mention it.

These are really the only things holding me up. I'm trying to get my wits about me and any necessary tooling.
Thank you.

 

[hossmaster]

1. Yes you can get around the sst for the tensioner. Put a small screwdriver in the hole and that should keep the tensioner in place. Then remove the idler pulley between the two cam sprockets and that will allow you to remove the belt.

2. Yes you have to remove the crank pulley. While the pulley is off, might as well put a new crank seal in there. only a couple of bucks to replace.

have you looked here?
http://www.toy4x4.net/timing_belt/index.htm
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85823&highlight=timing+belt+tensioner+sst
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57761&highlight=timing+belt+tensioner+sst
http://s94741489.onlinehome.us/albums/truck_stuff/wat/20050122_timing_belt/index.html

good luck

 

[drmax]

1. Yes you can get around the sst for the tensioner. Put a small screwdriver in the hole and that should keep the tensioner in place. Then remove the idler pulley between the two cam sprockets and that will allow you to remove the belt.

2. Yes you have to remove the crank pulley. While the pulley is off, might as well put a new crank seal in there. only a couple of bucks to replace.

have you looked here?
http://www.toy4x4.net/timing_belt/index.htm
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85823&highlight=timing+belt+tensioner+sst
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57761&highlight=timing+belt+tensioner+sst
http://s94741489.onlinehome.us/albums/truck_stuff/wat/20050122_timing_belt/index.html

good luck

maybe not your uls, but have been snooping. Looks like I need to either MacGyver a tool to hold the crankshaft pulley or rent one. (strap wrench with a pipe over the handle?)
A few places sell a belt kit including a idler pulley & tensioner, but minus the hydraulic piston for the pulley. WTF? Does this part typically not wear out?
Napa says thats a dealer sold part only. HMM
Seems there are others that way...maybe they do not wear out, but'd rather replace it all while'st I'm in there.
So, I'm off to harbor freight in the morning to get a few tools I do not own...19MM socket/breaker bar.
Any tools recommended would be appreciated.
Otherwise, I have a few "paperclips".
Greg

 

[TcmaBoy]

To remove the pin from the tensioner just yank it out with a pair of pliers.

To get the crank pulley off you will need a big puller and you will need an even bigger impact wrench to remove the bolt.

 

[drmax]

To remove the pin from the tensioner just yank it out with a pair of pliers.

To get the crank pulley off you will need a big puller and you will need an even bigger impact wrench to remove the bolt.

I'll try this again...
What is used to hold the crank pulley while removing the bolt? Sure, I could knock it out with an impact, but while
torqueing it, the motor will want to turn.
Are the tensioner mechanism something that normally go bad?
Nobody local carries this. I'd have to order it and would like to have a look at it.

153K miles. Would you change all the moving parts that are there? Water pump is about 30K old so i'll leave that alone.
Thermostat and timing belt sensor? I guess I will.
I'm thinking about doing all,

 

[TcmaBoy]

The only thing that needs to be changed while you are in there is the water pump. If a pulley is bad then change it. Most of the parts are pretty durable. These motors will go 300K.

Getting it off is harder than putting it on. You will need an impact to take it off. I have a stick, so to tightent it I just put it in gear with the brakes on.

 

[drmax]

The only thing that needs to be changed while you are in there is the water pump. If a pulley is bad then change it. Most of the parts are pretty durable. These motors will go 300K.

Getting it off is harder than putting it on. You will need an impact to take it off. I have a stick, so to tightent it I just put it in gear with the brakes on.

Gotcha. Thx. Did you torque the bolt back on, or, just get her tight? I have a stick as well.

Also, did you have to break into the a/c compressor? I really have no desire to phuck with that.

Thx, DM

 

[TcmaBoy]

TQ the pully to spec. If it comes loose you will destroy the crank.

As far as the AC goes.......it isn't much of an issue for me

 

[drmax]

couple other ?'s...

This belt is around 80K miles. Truck has 153K miles. I'm trying to get a list of timing parts on hand as don't want to hunt while truck is apart.

Should I just go ahead and change the 2 idler wheels and the hydaulic tensioner?

I plan on doing the thermostat crank and cam seals.
The waterpump has around 30K on it. Should be ok.

What is a good timing belt to purchase?

Should I use mild temp locktite on the crank pulley bolt & cam pulleys?

If you could recommend a good online store to get any items, I'd appreciate it. (there's a place I found called partsquick whose prices seem reasonable)

(oh yes, lastly, if I change the idler wheel on tensioner, does the tensioner have to come off for this repair?

Thanks gents, Greg

 

[drmax]

TQ the pully to spec. If it comes loose you will destroy the crank.

As far as the AC goes.......it isn't much of an issue for me

couple questions...I ordered the crank and cam seals. You ever changed these? what will be required to pull these out?
also, should some form of locktite be applied to any of these bolts?
Thank you

 

[TcmaBoy]

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

 

[drmax]

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

ok, i thought you may have changed these seals. I have a manual. I'll start a different thread. Just looking for tricks of the trade. Thx

 

[TcmaBoy]

I have done the cam seals. You will have to rig up a special tool to remove the cam pullies.

 

[drmax]

I have done the cam seals. You will have to rig up a special tool to remove the cam pullies.

today i built a the tool for the crank pulley. i can make up one for the cams. what i'd like to know...is there a trick to getting out the old seals? or is it just using a couple screw drivers and pulling them out?
do the knew ones just get pushed in, flush to face of engine or do they have to be inserted further?

I've heard that if this distance is not correct, you'll have a leak.

thank you for any info. i may have to call my repair shop and ask him. i don't want to be tearing this thing apart twice.

 

[TcmaBoy]

I just popped them in.

 

[drmax]

I just popped them in.

cool. i'll assume there's no issue getting these out?
does the cam shaft gears have holes, like the crank pulley? if not, i'll have to find a strap wrench.

 

[drmax]

harmonic pulley

well, i didn't complete the job and had to put it back together. 1st, i didn't have the metric star tooling to get the damn radiator out, so I thought I'd attempt this with rad. installed. It would have probably worked, however I could not get the damn crank pulley off. After I got the bolt broke loose and out, I tried to thread in the bolts for the harmonic puller I rented from autozone. Nothing in the kit would thread into the holes. Not sure if threads are fine or course, but neither bolts worked. I tried a couple big screw drivers to pry it off and wouldn't budge. Sprayed the hell out of it with PB blaster and no joy. Would a regular puller work or do I chance phucking up the pulley? I priced a new pulley at $250....geese.
So put it all back together. I did see the timing belt and it really looked good for 65K miles. My local shop told me that even this year 95 truck should see 90K life on the belt. Damn. Any advice would be nice.

 

[Starman97]

Places like Autozone will rent tools like wheel pullers. I see you have a couple of Harbor Freight stores in town, they sell a lot of misc tools. The torx bit is something they'd sell. I've got one of their wheelpuller sets. Once you get on their mailing list the send you sale flyers every week. Never buy things at the listed price, they're be on sale at 25-50% off within the month.

 

[drmax]

Places like Autozone will rent tools like wheel pullers. I see you have a couple of Harbor Freight stores in town, they sell a lot of misc tools. The torx bit is something they'd sell. I've got one of their wheelpuller sets. Once you get on their mailing list the send you sale flyers every week. Never buy things at the listed price, they're be on sale at 25-50% off within the month.

2 things...i realized i could have removed the bolts from the front of radiator and removed in that way...probably having to pull grill and maybe bumper. this way i couldn't have used met. sockets. i was going to remove the 4 side torx which apparently have never been removed. 2nd, i was told "not" to use a puller, other than the harmonic style, in fear ( i guess) of damaging the pulley (over $200 for pulley) since i couldn't get the bolts started through pulley, i through in the towel. i would imagine i should have tried a regular puller, which i didn't have. it probably only needed a nudge, but didn't want to phuck something up.

 

[Starman97]

Dose it with Liquid Wrench penetrating oil while it's under tension from the wheelpuller, then tap with a plastic hammer all around the balancer. It breaks up the rust and lets the oil get in and do it's job. Anyone know what threads are used on the inside holes on the balancer? Thread a couple of rods and use the plate used to remove the bolt, to press against the socket. You block the hole that the socket went through, put another, smaller socket inside the 19mm so that it presses against the head of the bolt with it unscrewed just enough to get clearance from the balancer. Then tighten the rods, pulling the plate toward the socket and pressing against the head of the crank bolt. That should pop it right off.