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95 camry 4 cylinder rough idling

3514 Views 9 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  minime3
I have a 95 camry 4 cylinder with about 112k. Recently, its been idling pretty rough, just had timing belt and water pump changed, but made no difference with rough idle. The car is very quiet when idling at park, after changing the timing belt, you can hardly notice the car is on, but when you stop at the light or stop sign, rough idling occurs more or more frequently now. Any ideas on the cause and solution? Thanks.
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· Toyota Camry Vienta CSi
Toyota Camry Vienta
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Sorry if this sounds stupid but what do you mean by 'rough idling'? Like all over the place or low idle? I am having problems where with the car in gear, I come to a set of lights and have low idle... but no always, its strange for me at least. N e way, maybe consider cleaning your intake out, throttle body and IAC and go from their (Cant hurt, takes 10mins and will only help the car)
 

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Some of the common causes of rough idling:
1. Dirty Idle air control valve and throttle body, theres a hundred posts on this here because this is very common on Camrys. But it is easy to clean so i'd start with this first
2. Cracked, missing, misrouted or displaced vacuum hose. Some places to check, vacuum hose from manifold to brake power booster, PCV hose, among others
3. Dirty PCV valve. Remove it from its hole and shake it. If it doesnt click, replace it.
4. Ignition timing off, needs to be checked and maybe reset
5. Worn out distributor cap and rotor, (if fitted).
6. Worn out or fouled spark plugs, or spark plugs of the wrong type or heat range
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
rough idle as in shaking to the point you hear vibration from your steering wheel or other places. like the noise "dut, dut, dut, dut" and repeat that out loud very fast then you'll know what i mean. light idle is just light tapping, but this rough idle is like your dashboard vibrating or windshield vibrating, and the noise is loud. that's the best way I can describe it for now.

I dont think I have to expertise to take the throttle body and IAC valve out to to clean it yet. Actually I can take them out, the problem is I'm afraid I might not be able to put them back together properly again. So instead of just rough idle, I now have an undrivable car. I have had mishaps with taking stuff apart and learned my lesson. So I'm afraid to make things worse.

I do hear about this highly controversial seaform where u put 1/3 in motor oil and drive it for 10 mins and then immediately change motor? if this is correct, then put 1/3 in booster line which is against the fire wall but spray it in the direction towards the passenger side, and then last third in gas tank. Is that a safer alternative that might offer some improvement? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is a true story but I dont want to emphasis to be switched to this message as I am still curious with the rough idle. I hope whoever reads this will learn and benefit from my ordeal of taking things apart. As a novice, I made the typical amature mistakes.

My first ordeal was changing the differential oil to my 95 camry. I did careful planning and research online and from manuals and I thought I was ready to undertake this task. What started out as a relaxing and leisurely saturday afternoon became an eleven hour ordeal. I violated the cardinal rule of changing fluids, never remove the drain plug and drain your compartment empty before you are sure you can remove the fill plug and refill the content. I was never forewarned about this rule. I thought removing the fill plug of the differntial case was easy like the drain plug. After misreading some diagrams online and from manual, I removed a 6 inch golden bolt from an aluminunum compartment near the driver side wheel which I mistaken for the differential case. It was weird because the tubing from the gear oil pump wont fit in the the hole from this gold bolt. I keep pumping oil and forcing the tubing in for 30 mins, but oil keep spitting back out. I finally stopped. It finally dawned on me, I removed the wrong bolt. To this day, I still dont know what compartment I removed the bolt from. Might be part of the transmission, after careful examination of the manual, I finally realized the differential plug is way up in the nook and cranny in a different aluminum compartment way higher up. No one also told me that removing this fill plug would be challenging as it is impact wrenched in by factory and I would need a cheater wrench or bar. I spend a couple of hours trying to remove this bolt, sprayed wd 40 and pb blaster but nothing would losen it. Refusing to give up, I tried until late into the night, I finally gave up cause I was tired and beat and frustrated. It was put in so tight, i rounded it partly. Then I knew it was time to stop or I would never get the bolt off in the nook and cranny. I cleaned everything up and knew it was time for professional help. I phoned my local mechanic the next morning. I drove 5 miles on local streets at 5mph with an empty differential case so he can remove it for me with a cheater wrench, cause the impact wrench wont fit in between, it still took him about 10-15 minutes to get it off. This was a year ago and I hope sharing this story with you all will might make you understand why I'm a llittle hesitant with removing my throttle body and IAC valve. God bless and please continue with your input of different methods to fix or reduce this rough idle. Thanks
 

· Toyota Camry Vienta CSi
Toyota Camry Vienta
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^

I can understand your reluctance, but you dont have to take the throttle body or IAC off the car to clean it.... just take the intake piping going to the throttle body off (like clamp held by a screw and undo a clip for the PCV) and then spray away. Im a noob and did it. I wouldnt however try anything like you mention above, to complicated for me. So its your choice, but it really isnt hard, 10 minute job... and there are some good DIY threads on it as well, detailed with pics just do a search :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm sorry but can you be more discriptive and so I can get a better visual image in my head, the plastic pipe your talking about has a pretty wide diameter right, and you spray it directly in the metal throttle body with engine turned on?
 

· Toyota Camry Vienta CSi
Toyota Camry Vienta
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Yeah sorry, its the rubber piping that goes from the air filter to the throttle body... and the engine is off (It wouldnt run with the hose disconnected).... and you spray it all over the throttle body and through the hole their that leads to the IAC. Heres the DIY:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t158097.html

If you still need more help, post your questions... but that DIY is prity detailed :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Some of the common causes of rough idling:
1. Dirty Idle air control valve and throttle body, theres a hundred posts on this here because this is very common on Camrys. But it is easy to clean so i'd start with this first
2. Cracked, missing, misrouted or displaced vacuum hose. Some places to check, vacuum hose from manifold to brake power booster, PCV hose, among others
3. Dirty PCV valve. Remove it from its hole and shake it. If it doesnt click, replace it.
4. Ignition timing off, needs to be checked and maybe reset
5. Worn out distributor cap and rotor, (if fitted).
6. Worn out or fouled spark plugs, or spark plugs of the wrong type or heat range


I will try to clean the TB
I dont think my hoses are cracked, the vacuum hoses should be all rubber?
My pcv valve was changed 10k ago
Does ignition timing have anything to do with how long it takes your car to turn over once you start the engine
I might change the distribuor cap and rotor soon
My spark plugs were changed 10k ago.
 
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