95 Camry - Driver's Door Pin relay/wiring issue

3881 Views 8 Replies 3 Participants Last post by dc_98_cam, Feb 22, 2008

Fruitbat

Discussion Starter · Feb 22, 2008

Long time lurker, first time poster,

I have a '95 V6 LE that I picked up a few months back to replace my aging 2nd Gen (which replaced my brow-beaten 1st gen

). It's in great shape, under 100,000 miles, but it has this one issue that's driving me nutty.

The Drivers door pin doesn't register. It doesn't turn on the dome light, turn off the headlights, or give me the door open indicator on the dash. So I just assumed the pin itself was dead. Got a brand new one from a local dealer and installed it - still doesn't work. The switch tested good.

So since the driver's door is the only one that signals the headlights to turn off, etc, I assume there must be an extra Relay or Control Unit on this one wire before it gets to the other "Door Control Unit" (which obviously works fine, as the other 3 doors turn on dome light). However, I can't find mention of it anywhere in the Hayne's or Chilton's manuals. Now before I go ripping apart my dash looking for the dead relay, does anybody know where it is located, or if there is anything else I should look at first?

You guys are like Camry Jedi, I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction here.

Thanks a ton-

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dc_98_cam

· #2 · Feb 22, 2008

The failure of the driver door courtesy switch to deactivate the headlights could be a defective Integration Relay, labeled I13. This is located to the left of the steering column, in the area next to the coin tray, behind the dash.
Before you get a new one from the salvage yard or wherever, just remove the relay, and clean the terminals and plugs with electrical contact cleaner spray. Maybe the problem is just a buildup of oxide, corrosion, or other contaminants in the connectors.
The dome light problem might be related to the Integration Relay, or it might be something separate...
See if cleaning the Integration Relay helps the situation.
Do you have access to the Gen 3 Wiring Diagram?

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Fruitbat

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 22, 2008

dc_98_cam said:
The failure of the driver door courtesy switch to deactivate the headlights could be a defective Integration Relay, labeled I13. This is located to the left of the steering column, in the area next to the coin tray, behind the dash.
Before you get a new one from the salvage yard or wherever, just remove the relay, and clean the terminals and plugs with electrical contact cleaner spray. Maybe the problem is just a buildup of oxide, corrosion, or other contaminants in the connectors.
The dome light problem might be related to the Integration Relay, or it might be something separate...
See if cleaning the Integration Relay helps the situation.
Do you have access to the Gen 3 Wiring Diagram?

Thanks for the super quick reply.

No, I don't have any wiring diagrams other than what's in the back of the Hayne's manual, which doesn't seem to have this one included.

Is the relay in the area behind the driver's kick panel, or above that? Do you know how much of the dash I have to rip out to get at it?

Thanks again

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dc_98_cam

· #4 · Feb 22, 2008 (Edited)

... Not in kick panel. It should be just to the right of the coin tray...and to the left of the steering column. There should be a 4 wire connector going to it someplace...maybe one or two other wires. I think there are one or two cover panels underneath the dash gauge panel that you might have to remove... not sure though.
Send me a pm with your email ...I will send a pdf of the wiring diagram...see I13 location on p. 33.

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dc_98_cam

· #5 · Feb 22, 2008

One thing that you might check is the red wire with a green stripe .... going into the Integration Relay. This is the wire that goes to the LH front door courtesy switch. You should get continuity to ground or open...depending on the position of the switch pin.
With only 100k mi. on your car, I would say that it is unlikely that this wire is broken, someplace between the switch and the relay. However, it is possible...usually at some point in the door hinge area ....bending of the wires causes them to break. This problem is more common on the older Gen 3 models, but would be something that would be easy to check...once you locate the Integration Relay.

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Fruitbat

Discussion Starter · #6 · Feb 22, 2008

dc_98_cam said:
One thing that you might check is the red wire with a green stripe .... going into the Integration Relay. This is the wire that goes to the LH front door courtesy switch. You should get continuity to ground or open...depending on the position of the switch pin.
With only 100k mi. on your car, I would say that it is unlikely that this wire is broken, someplace between the switch and the relay. However, it is possible...usually at some point in the door hinge area ....bending of the wires causes them to break. This problem is more common on the older Gen 3 models, but would be something that would be easy to check...once you locate the Integration Relay.

Yeah, I think I have it all figured out....once I get to the integration relay.

These diagrams will be an awesome help for me. Thanks again.

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Mike Gerber

· #7 · Feb 22, 2008 (Edited)

When you replaced the door switch, what did the screw holding the switch to the door frame look like? Was it all rusty? It's that screw that grounds the switch to the chasis. The screw and the threads it goes in to must be clean of all rust to ground properly. This is a common problem on generation 3 Camrys.

Mike

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Fruitbat

Discussion Starter · #8 · Feb 22, 2008

Mike Gerber said:
When you replaced the door switch, what did the screw holding the switch to the door frame look like? Was it all rusty? It's that screw that grounds the switch to the chasis. The screw and the threads it goes in to must be clean of all rust to ground properly. This is a common problem on generation 3 Camrys.

Nike

Thanks for the idea - I checked that - the bolt was a good ground when the new switch was installed.

The lead wire wasn't providing any power, so it seems like an issue with the wire.

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dc_98_cam

· #9 · Feb 22, 2008 (Edited)

Fruitbat said:
Thanks for the idea - I checked that - the bolt was a good ground when the new switch was installed.

The lead wire wasn't providing any power, so it seems like an issue with the wire.

The wire to the driver door courtesy switch does not provide power...
All it does is ground out a terminal on the integration relay...which controls a logic state that is programmed to turn the headlights off.
I don't think that you will measure any voltage at the door switch...
A better test would be to measure the continuity of the switch wire ... with respect to ground...at the Integration Relay... as the switch pin is pushed and released.

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