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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Trying to remove the right side drive axle on a 95 4 cyl camry. Have been trying to get it out most of the afternoon. I am using a haynes repair manual for reference. All went fine until I tried to pull the intermediate shaft from the transaxle. It wouldn't budge. I thought possibly the intermediat shaft bearing is holding it (lock bolt is out and the snap ring is off). I drove it with a punch (although hard to get leverage laying under the car). Its on jacks (don't have the avantage of a lift). Can anyone please give me a clue??????? I'm desperate!!!!!!!

Thanks from Southwest Kansas
 

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This is a month late, but I just ran into your message. I just tried the same operation on my 95 Camry, 120,000 miles. I decided to remove both drive axles since both outside driveaxle boots were cracked. The right drive axle was VERY difficult to remove. Both my Toyota manual and my Haynes manual implied the job would be easy. It would not pry off. I bought a cable tie, the biggest I could find. The U bolt of the tie was 7/8" wide. I ground out the inside edges until it was 1" wide and slid it over the inner axle. I then bolted it into position near the outer end of the inner axle (where the axle expands). I then used a pickle fork with a 24 oz ball pein hammer and attempted to knock the axle out, to no avail. I used a torch on the motor mount of the bearing on the inner shaft along with "Bust Rust", then pounded some more, to no avail. I then used a 12" solid iron rod instead of the pickle fork, a 3 lb sledge hammer instead of the 24 oz hammer, and pounded the cable tie and axle out. Since I was pounding on the cable tie and not the axle, the axle was unscathed. I had to use the cable tie on the inner shaft to give me something to push out on. I'm sure by now that you have either had it fixed or fixed it yourself!! Good luck either way!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
sjhiker,
I had to jack the motor up, pulled the outer half of the axle off, removed the bolts holding the motor mount and then I was able to manuver it around and get the bolt off the top off the rubber mount and then manuver the axle and motor mount assembly off the car. I pounded, tried grinding, and finally resorted to a blow torch to get the bearing out of the carrier. What a hassle.....Now, how about the left axle, I haven't done it yet.....Any surprises????

Thanks ffrom Southwest Kansas
 

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The left axle is easier to remove. Use a crowbar and pry it out.

Right axle can be a bitch to remove. Sometimes the bearing seizes to the mount.

My buddy and I did a tranny swap (differential broke) on his 94 Camry and the right axle was seized to the mount.

Tried prying on it with a crowbar, but couldn't get it out. Finally said f**k it, cut the inner boot, and yank the axle out.

After that I unbolted the mount from the block, pryed the axle out of the tranny, and slammed whatever was left of the axle against the ground. The axle eventually popped out from the mount. :)
 

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Kans_Geo!
Wow! I tried to remove the cast iron mount on the right side of mine and found it was pinned to the engine, so I couldn't move it/axle freely with all the bolts out and had to give that up, resorting to a bigger hammer and better punch.
The left mount had "shelves" on the inner CV joint housing that you can supposedly pry on to get it from the vehicle. I could not get a good enough grip on those "shelves" so I put the prybar in the space between the transmission and the metal seal protector. It was also extremely tight and I had to use my legs from inside the wheel housing to get enough leverage to force the axle out. There was a small circle ring on the end of the splines in the transmission that held it in. The seal protector did get slightly bent but I used a small wood block to bend it back. As it turns out, I'm buying new axles, so I didn't need to fix the old seal protector... If you can find something to pry against (maybe a wood block against the transmission) you may be able to pry on the "shelves" and pop it from the transmission. According to my Toyota repair manual, that's the proper way to do the job... Good Luck!!
sjkhiker
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
sjkhiker,
I forgot to mention the block has a protruding 1/8 " pin which mates with an indent on the engine mount bracket to keep it from moving. I stuck a 1/4" chim between the block and engine mount bracket , which allowed me to pop the axle out of the transmission (with the axle still seized to the carrier bearing within the engine mount bracket). Also, when i purchased a new axle assembly, it didn't have the deflector (dust shield) on the hub end, or the dust shield on the carrier or the trans bearing. I bought the axle from a local parts store (about 65.oo), and then bought the deflector and dust shields from the local toyota sales (about 65.00). Toyota wanted 4 hundred something for the axle!!!!! After trying to install the factory dust shields I also found out that by simply heating the old dust shields and deflector with a propane torch (or MEPP Gas torch) they easily came off the old axles. Also, when installing the deflector and dust shields on the new axle, heat them up with a propane torch, slip them on the axle and when they cool they fit tight. No need to spend the extra money for new shields if your replacement axles are missing the shields.
 

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Kans_Geo,
I'm buying new axles ($75 each) which looked so much better than the rebuilt axles I went and looked at in town. They are "aftermarket" new axles. I have the left one, and it came with the seal protectors, both inside and out. The right one is on order and should be in by next Friday. It will hopefully also have the seal protectors... I also called Toyota new OEM axles and they quoted me a $400 price also! I'm replacing the transmission seals before I put in the axles - I don't want to do this job again for some time!! I asked around about the cost of having this done - it looks like anywhere from $200 to $400 a side... I thought about rebuilding my original axles but after 120XXX miles and having to replace the inner shaft bearing on the right side, plus the cost of new boots from Toyota ($32 per side), I might as well get a good set of rebuits (which I couldn't find) or a new one (if available). It looks like I'll have time to fix everything else than needs work - brake hoses, bleed brakes, change p/s fluid, etc... When I was changing the timimg belt and water pump last week the bolt attaching the strut support for the alternator broke off in the block... UGH. That took awhile to fix... At least the car has been completely maintenance free up to this point!!
 

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damn i had trouble w/ the left side axle (driver side), i thot it was held in by something. however the right side (pass) was easy for me.

how did you pry out the left axle?
 

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The left side was held in with a circlring near the end of the splined shaft in the transmission. I pried on the bell housing of the inner axle joint - there are several ledges built-in to pry on. But I couldn't get enough leverage there so I pried out on the transmission seal cover and the axle popped out. I had to use my legs to pop it free though - working from inside the wheel well. I wish my right side had just "slid out"! - getting it out was quite a treat...

sjkhiker
 

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sjkhiker said:
The left side was held in with a circlring near the end of the splined shaft in the transmission. I pried on the bell housing of the inner axle joint - there are several ledges built-in to pry on. But I couldn't get enough leverage there so I pried out on the transmission seal cover and the axle popped out. I had to use my legs to pop it free though - working from inside the wheel well. I wish my right side had just "slid out"! - getting it out was quite a treat...

sjkhiker



BECAREFULL WHEN PRYING ON ANY PART OF THE TRANSMISSION.

I tried to pry against the innter "Bell Housing" and Chipped one of the ledges off. I didn't even think to fix it and here I am running the same circles having to replace my transmission (Tranny Failure due to no-oil)
 
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