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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My old trusty Camry which has had a slow oil leak forever finally really started pour oil on me recent. Love the car and can't really afford a new one or mechanic labor costs so I'm going to tackle it myself.

So jacked it all up and found the leak was coming for the rear of the passenger side engine area. Everything I have read currently has been saying most likely the oil pump gasket or cam seals are the problem and tend to go.

Found a pretty helpful video On YouTube
unfortunately the video doesnt finish just wish i could see more with replacing cam and crank seals might as well do it all if i tearing it right?

But just looking for any extra advice or if someone has some good teardown files/better videos on what I'm getting into etc
 

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this might help.


https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Toyota-Camry-5SFE-Engine-Timing-Belt-Water-Pump-Seal-Replacement


http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-belt-waterpump-oil-seal-change-part-1-a.html
(Part 2 is in the first post link)


My dad's 2000 Camry LE I4 been recently dripping oil. I replaced his transmission pan gasket since that was seeping. I also found more leaks. It's not coming from the valve cover(did this a year ago), but it's dripping somewhere by the timing belt. Considering it's on the original timing belt and water pump, it's about time. Almost positive it's the oil pump seal.




You should do all the front seals. I'd go OEM. We have our part vendor, Coolspring (Roman). I've been buying a majority of items that do not have a good aftermarket vendor this route. Been going more genuine since I end up paying just a tiny more for genuine + shipping.


Keep an eye on the oil leak. These leaks can get bad and when they get bad, they can sometimes drip like crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok. Besides being able to break loose the crank shaft/ harmonic balancer the only the I don't understand/worried about is once you get your crank and cam shafts back on and install timing belt correctly. The I don't understand how the harmonic balancer is going to be able to be set at zero properly without turning the crankshaft out of place? hopefully will easier to understand once I tear into it tomorrow but I'm being OCD about it and wanna know everything.
 

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Ok. Besides being able to break loose the crank shaft/ harmonic balancer the only the I don't understand/worried about is once you get your crank and cam shafts back on and install timing belt correctly. The I don't understand how the harmonic balancer is going to be able to be set at zero properly without turning the crankshaft out of place? hopefully will easier to understand once I tear into it tomorrow but I'm being OCD about it and wanna know everything.
If you get a decent timing belt kit (belt, tensioner, idler, water pump) it will come with instructions. I recommend Aisin TKT002...it's the OEM components, far cheaper than the dealer. Doesn't come with a spring, you will have to get that from the dealer. $95 + shipping from RockAuto...the TKT003 is a bit cheaper but doesn't come with the water pump housing. TKT002 comes with it assembled, worth the extra couple bucks IMO.

There is a "dot" (raised mark) that you line up the crank sprocket with...the cam has a hole that lines up with a mark on the head. Put the crank bolt in and turn it two revolutions at that point to make sure you did everything right.

Once you're ready to put the balancer back on - if I understand your concern correctly - the balancer is keyed to the crankshaft. Only goes on one way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry if I'm blowing up this thread. Already got my parts. Ended up splitting it between the dealer and autozone. Def got all seals and belt from dealer.
But yea that's my concern didn't see a keyway with the harmonic balancer. Thought if I was cranking on this thing and it's not all torqued down that I'd throw the timing off.
Also couldn't find a decent pulley holder for less than 100 so I'm making my own like I've seen a few guys do on YouTube.
Will def. continue to update post as I do it this weekend. Wish me luck haha.
 

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When you line up the cam pulley with a mark/notch on the block, you will notice that there are actually two marks to choose from. The correct mark is at about 10 o'clock. Ignore the one at 12 o'clock.
... I never could find the dimple on the block to align the crankshaft notch. ... Make some kind of reference mark on the block while the harmonic balancer is in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so when the cam is top dead center. The crank is obviously too right ? Sorry if these are dumb questions I'm probably over thinking it at this point.

Also Suggestions on grease/lube for this oil pump gasket and the seals ?
 

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Sorry if I'm blowing up this thread. Already got my parts. Ended up splitting it between the dealer and autozone. Def got all seals and belt from dealer.
But yea that's my concern didn't see a keyway with the harmonic balancer. Thought if I was cranking on this thing and it's not all torqued down that I'd throw the timing off.
Also couldn't find a decent pulley holder for less than 100 so I'm making my own like I've seen a few guys do on YouTube.
Will def. continue to update post as I do it this weekend. Wish me luck haha.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1572738&cc=1273520&jsn=9

...take a look at the pics, keyway is obvious.

I use this one for cam pulley shenanigans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KSEJ6Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

...and this one for crank pulley tightening: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q8GVPY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

...think I had to go to Lowe's and get a couple long bolts for the OTC one to thread into the pulley.

By the time you are ready to tighten down the crank pulley the timing belt tensioner should be tightened down and you should have checked the timing. In case you mess up this engine is non-interference.

When you line up the cam pulley with a mark/notch on the block, you will notice that there are actually two marks to choose from. The correct mark is at about 10 o'clock. Ignore the one at 12 o'clock.
... I never could find the dimple on the block to align the crankshaft notch. ... Make some kind of reference mark on the block while the harmonic balancer is in place.
http://www.toyoheadquarters.com/threads/toyota-5s-fe-timing-belt-marks-2-2l.340/

I thought the notch at engine's 12 o'clock was the correct mark, not the dimple at 10 o'clock...
 

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so when the cam is top dead center. The crank is obviously too right ? Sorry if these are dumb questions I'm probably over thinking it at this point.

Also Suggestions on grease/lube for this oil pump gasket and the seals ?
Yes as long as the belt hasn't slipped or anything. Find the marks and you'll be able to properly set timing if they've moved relative to each other.

Any MP grease should work, I use Sta-Lube Engine Assembly Lube. You might need something tacky to hold the "spaghetti" gasket in place while you affix the oil pump housing.
 

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Ha now you're confusing me. The good break down I have for the timing belt(someone linked in Up top it's on Toyota nation) says the v notch behind camshaft gear is my tdc.
Maybe somebody else can chime in and put this issue to rest. The engine is slanted, so the V is at the engine's 12 o'clock. The dimple is at 10 o'clock, I think that's a factory assembly mark or something.

EDIT: I checked in ALLDATA and it shows the 12 o'clock notch. Still would like others to chime in
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got the other belts off and top timing cover, made some marks on cam and harmonic balancer. Now I don't see any other option besides bump starting it (pulley seems to want to move either way). Don't I unplug the distributor before? Or what ?
 
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