[new echo owner]

From what you are describing, it sounds like a weak battery, not the alarm system!
If it is the alarm, you would still have electrical power to the other circuits, but yours is not the case!
Would check and recharge the battery then try again! Also check all the connections as well!

 

[borwish]

Thanks for the advise. I tried a jump pack and got the same results. The battery shows 12.6 volts and my smart battery charger says it's charged.

 

[new echo owner]

Check you connections then, make sure they are clean and tight! Remove them clean them as necessary, both pos and neg!

BTW, when using the jumper, connect the neg to the engine metal surface, instead of the battery, see if that makes any difference!

 

[borwish]

I don't believe it's a battery issue, but I do appreciate your help. My thought is rodent (no signs) or corrosion damage. I can wait a short while and everything will show life again until I try to crank. I can also unhook the battery and reconnect it to get lights immediately. When hooking the battery back up the turn signals will flash briefly. Is this normal?

Is there an electrical troubleshooting guide somewhere for no crank? I pulled the horn relay so I don't disturb the neighbors.

 

[kenshiro]

Change the starter... 30$ on ebay... 30 minutes of work....

 

[borwish]

A bad starter would just not crank right? It wouldn't kill everything else would it? I can hear it click.

 

[new echo owner]

I don't believe it's a battery issue, but I do appreciate your help. My thought is rodent (no signs) or corrosion damage. I can wait a short while and everything will show life again until I try to crank. I can also unhook the battery and reconnect it to get lights immediately. When hooking the battery back up the turn signals will flash briefly. Is this normal?

Is there an electrical troubleshooting guide somewhere for no crank? I pulled the horn relay so I don't disturb the neighbors.

The T/S flashes is probably cause by the alarm system!
You may have to disconnect the cables and terminals to check, visual inspection sometimes might not get the full picture. Take the cables off from the battery terminals, use a wire brush to clean them, then put them back on, make sure they are tight! If that doesn;t help, work you way towards the fuse block in the engine compartment!

You can serach the forum for no crank situations on vehicle, don't believe there is any guide for any particular model though!

 

[borwish]

Well it started for some reason. The only thing I did different was I wanted to make sure that the alt fuse wasn't blown so I made sure that the radio and clock were working since it was described as not working for someone else with a blown alt fuse. They were working. It would not crank. I wanted to see if the a/c blower would work The battery was still unhooked and I reconnected it.

In the process of messing around I went to put the cruise control cover in the car and opened the passenger side door. This made the alarm go off. I took out the hour relay so only the turn signal lights were flashing. I got in the car to stop the alarm. When I put the key in and turned it to stop the alarm the car started. It was a slow start, but it has been a few months. I'm letting it run now for a bit since it's been a while I need to top off the tires and put on new wiper blades for sure. I don't trust it of course until I find the issue.

There are no warning lights, but the battery was disconnected so I don't expect there to be any.

 

[borwish]

After running well for half an hour I'm back where I started. Turn the key and everything dies.

 

[DFBonnett]

I'm wondering if the starter is bad and pulling too many amps.

 

[BMR]

I’ve had the same symptoms once. Turned out to be a loose battery connection.

 

[new echo owner]

Still goes back to connection issue!
Whenever you lost power from a fully charged battery, it goes back to the connections, that's why check both postive and negative connection is essential. It is simple, but can be time consumming; you have to work from the battery out one connection at a time.

 

[borwish]

I'm going to try replacing the battery cables and see what happens. Years ago a Buick was giving me fits and the problem with the cable was only able to be seen once you sliced it open. More rain, so who knows when I can get back at it.

 

[new echo owner]

Just post back when you can!

 

[alltoyo]

how old is the battery? if 5 years or more it needs to be replaced regardless, also put a voltmeter and measure the voltage when attempting to crank. do not buy cheap starters there have been reports on some of the starter gears falling off and getting lodged between the flywheel and housing of the too cheap to believe starters.

 

[borwish]

how old is the battery? if 5 years or more it needs to be replaced regardless, also put a voltmeter and measure the voltage when attempting to crank. do not buy cheap starters there have been reports on some of the starter gears falling off and getting lodged between the flywheel and housing of the too cheap to believe starters.

The battery is 1 year and 3 months old. My DMM shows 12.6 volts and the smart charger says it's charged. I have not been able to see voltage while trying to crank, but it did start once after I disconnected/reconnected the neg terminal for something. I have an old starter from my wife's old Camry if needed. I will change the battery cables at first chance.

 

[Slimy]

From what you are describing, it sounds like a weak battery, not the alarm system!
If it is the alarm, you would still have electrical power to the other circuits, but yours is not the case!
Would check and recharge the battery then try again! Also check all the connections as well!

The battery is 1 year and 3 months old. My DMM shows 12.6 volts and the smart charger says it's charged. I have not been able to see voltage while trying to crank, but it did start once after I disconnected/reconnected the neg terminal for something. I have an old starter from my wife's old Camry if needed. I will change the battery cables at first chance.

The battery is 1 year and 3 months old. My DMM shows 12.6 volts and the smart charger says it's charged. I have not been able to see voltage while trying to crank, but it did start once after I disconnected/reconnected the neg terminal for something. I have an old starter from my wife's old Camry if needed. I will change the battery cables at first chance.

The battery is 1 year and 3 months old. My DMM shows 12.6 volts and the smart charger says it's charged. I have not been able to see voltage while trying to crank, but it did start once after I disconnected/reconnected the neg terminal for something. I have an old starter from my wife's old Camry if needed. I will change the battery cables at first chance.

check the battery with a voltage meter. 12.5 to 13.5 volts

 

[CamryFL]

The battery is 1 year and 3 months old. My DMM shows 12.6 volts and the smart charger says it's charged. I have not been able to see voltage while trying to crank, but it did start once after I disconnected/reconnected the neg terminal for something. I have an old starter from my wife's old Camry if needed. I will change the battery cables at first chance.

I would put the battery on an external charger (6/10 amp) overnight / for a day - and see if that rejuvenates the battery. Otherwise, I'd pull the battery and have it tested at the local auto parts store (draw down/amp test), if here.

 

[LargeDuck]

I have one of these in each of my cars. You can monitor the voltage while you are trying to start the car. If it drops a lot, then battery is bad or terminal clamps are bad/loose.