holy crap i am a toyota tech and i havent seen one that bad. maybe use kerosine or something to clean the engine out and hope for the best
96 Avalan gunk'ed to the MAX
dear toyota nation,
I have a problem and I need some advice before proceeding. My sons bought a 96 avalon with 82,000 MILES last fall and got their licenses this spring. They only drive it to school and back (2 miles) and generally are very good on cars. I noticed an oil spot on the place they park and started looking into it. I took the timing belt cover off, found some oil and continued to look, finally after reading online, i decided to pull the valve cover off and have a look at that seal. I had read about the 'gunk' lawsuit, but I have never in all my years of working on cars seen ANYTHING like this.
So. Please advise me as to what the next steps are. We have owned the car for only 2,000 miles and changed the oil / plugs and have babied it. Obviously this is a BIG problem.
I suspected something was wrong with the Oil pressure sensor because the light would flicker on and off sometimes (now i know why, clogged sensor)
Can this be repaired or am I just out of luck? I think cleaning all the passageways and pan isn't possible, without THOUSANDS of dollars in repair and the car is worth 2K. (i have 2K in it)
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All I can say is...
"Oh what a feeling!!!!"
My sons are very sad, this was a good car... Now it's dead or at least too expensive to fix.
Brian
I have a problem and I need some advice before proceeding. My sons bought a 96 avalon with 82,000 MILES last fall and got their licenses this spring. They only drive it to school and back (2 miles) and generally are very good on cars. I noticed an oil spot on the place they park and started looking into it. I took the timing belt cover off, found some oil and continued to look, finally after reading online, i decided to pull the valve cover off and have a look at that seal. I had read about the 'gunk' lawsuit, but I have never in all my years of working on cars seen ANYTHING like this.
So. Please advise me as to what the next steps are. We have owned the car for only 2,000 miles and changed the oil / plugs and have babied it. Obviously this is a BIG problem.
I suspected something was wrong with the Oil pressure sensor because the light would flicker on and off sometimes (now i know why, clogged sensor)
Can this be repaired or am I just out of luck? I think cleaning all the passageways and pan isn't possible, without THOUSANDS of dollars in repair and the car is worth 2K. (i have 2K in it)
All I can say is...
"Oh what a feeling!!!!"
My sons are very sad, this was a good car... Now it's dead or at least too expensive to fix.
Brian
7
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
holy crap! theres no words for that............. anyone know if the oilpan will come off with the engine in the car? if so u would try washing it out with something omg that is just wow. i wouldnt try "flushing it"
maybe a rebuild is in order and several days in a block cooker! lol
maybe a rebuild is in order and several days in a block cooker! lol
wow
holy crap! theres no words for that............. anyone know if the oilpan will come off with the engine in the car? if so u would try washing it out with something omg that is just wow. i wouldnt try "flushing it"
maybe a rebuild is in order and several days in a block cooker! lol
holy crap! theres no words for that............. anyone know if the oilpan will come off with the engine in the car? if so u would try washing it out with something omg that is just wow. i wouldnt try "flushing it"
maybe a rebuild is in order and several days in a block cooker! lol
:wowza::yikes:OMG, how is that possible?!?!?
The previous owner for sure did not change the oil regularly. I don't think there is much you can do besides clean what you can. Can't imagine the rear bank.CRAZY!!!!
That's what happens when you do very short trips and the engine isn't run at normal operating temperature for long.
2 miles is too short. If I have a short trip to make, I intentionally make it longer by just driving around for 10-15 minutes.
The previous owner must have done the same thing - short trips.
2 miles is too short. If I have a short trip to make, I intentionally make it longer by just driving around for 10-15 minutes.
The previous owner must have done the same thing - short trips.
Jason is correct. Oil needs to get to a proper operating temperature for it to lubricate properly, without doing so will cause the oil to gum up and cause what you see in those pics.
Before I saw the pics I was going to recommend Auto-Rx which is a engine flush that slowly liquefies the sludge to prevent passageway plugging during cleaning. I read quite a few success stories with it. Your engine looks to me like it is too far gone for that, but you might contact the company if this is your last resort. http://www.auto-rx.com. Maybe a combination of hand removal of some the sludge and Auto-Rx will do it.
I think the Toyota extended warranty was 8 years or 100K miles, so you might want to check. You still might want to try even if you are out of warranty, the problem is have the proper maintenance records from the first owner - I think at least one oil change per year.
I think the Toyota extended warranty was 8 years or 100K miles, so you might want to check. You still might want to try even if you are out of warranty, the problem is have the proper maintenance records from the first owner - I think at least one oil change per year.
Man, those are like pics out of a horror movie; maybe you could sell them to Mobil so they could use them in their ads for Mobil 1.
I'd tend to agree with Edge10. I ran Auto Rx through my engine as a precaution but yours looks so bad I don't think I'd recommend doing that. I'd be worried about big chunks of sludge breaking loose and plugging up oil galleys, which, even if it happened for only a few seconds, could be catastrophic. Of course, as you know that could happen anytime, even without using the Auto Rx.
I hate to say it, but IMO you'd better start thinking about selling the car and moving onward. Don't dismiss Avalons because of this incident though. They're great cars...you just happened to get one that hadn't been properly maintained.
I'd tend to agree with Edge10. I ran Auto Rx through my engine as a precaution but yours looks so bad I don't think I'd recommend doing that. I'd be worried about big chunks of sludge breaking loose and plugging up oil galleys, which, even if it happened for only a few seconds, could be catastrophic. Of course, as you know that could happen anytime, even without using the Auto Rx.
I hate to say it, but IMO you'd better start thinking about selling the car and moving onward. Don't dismiss Avalons because of this incident though. They're great cars...you just happened to get one that hadn't been properly maintained.
Guys, I am a boy scout (literally) and I cannot in good conscience sell this Piece of Crap to anybody. I know it will be problems down the road for SOMEBODY, so I am going to put it out of it's misery. It's going to be parted out and crushed.
Email me if you need any parts (AC compressor, alternator, etc).. This car has only 84K miles so there are some good parts available. my email address is [email protected]
Brian
Email me if you need any parts (AC compressor, alternator, etc).. This car has only 84K miles so there are some good parts available. my email address is [email protected]
Brian
Honestly I think it could be saved...
You'll get some leaks, but it would be saved. Try the diesel+oil change method.
You'll get some leaks, but it would be saved. Try the diesel+oil change method.
chris,
I also am sure that it could be saved with some $$ and some time. If you are near Atlanta Georgia and want the car, just let me know -- i can get you hooked up for cheap. you can even drive it home. Provided you stop every 10 miles and add oil.
ha ha ha.
Brian
I also am sure that it could be saved with some $$ and some time. If you are near Atlanta Georgia and want the car, just let me know -- i can get you hooked up for cheap. you can even drive it home. Provided you stop every 10 miles and add oil.
ha ha ha.
Brian
dont waste any $ on any flush
Its cocktail time
goes like this:
2 quarts kerosene or diesel (kerosene preferred)
1 quart atf
2 quarts motor oil, light stuff, like 10w30
2 oil filters
drain oil, and install a new (cheap) filter, fill'er up with the cocktail
start and let idle for 20 minutes (do not drive)
replace oil filter
Repeat
replace oil filter
Repeat
most of the gunk SHOULD be gone.
Drain and refill with motor oil and a fresh filter.
variation to the cocktail include 1 additional quart of atf instead of kerosene or motor oil.
Perform at your own risk, its a hail Mary pass, not recommended for engines that DO NOT need major cleaning, might do more damage then it will solve.
Its cocktail time
goes like this:
2 quarts kerosene or diesel (kerosene preferred)
1 quart atf
2 quarts motor oil, light stuff, like 10w30
2 oil filters
drain oil, and install a new (cheap) filter, fill'er up with the cocktail
start and let idle for 20 minutes (do not drive)
replace oil filter
Repeat
replace oil filter
Repeat
most of the gunk SHOULD be gone.
Drain and refill with motor oil and a fresh filter.
variation to the cocktail include 1 additional quart of atf instead of kerosene or motor oil.
Perform at your own risk, its a hail Mary pass, not recommended for engines that DO NOT need major cleaning, might do more damage then it will solve.
I would salavage that man.
Drain the oil, fill it up alllllll the way to the oil cap with kerosene and let it sit for 3-4 days. Drain, pour a gallon or two of kerosene through it with the drain plug out.
I would then just run some el cheapo walmart oil with 1 quart atf added. Run that for like 20 min idle and then change it all again.
Then change the oil every 500 miles with long highway blowouts inbetween.
Shouldn't cost you more than 100$ and ill bet you it wont die.
Drain the oil, fill it up alllllll the way to the oil cap with kerosene and let it sit for 3-4 days. Drain, pour a gallon or two of kerosene through it with the drain plug out.
I would then just run some el cheapo walmart oil with 1 quart atf added. Run that for like 20 min idle and then change it all again.
Then change the oil every 500 miles with long highway blowouts inbetween.
Shouldn't cost you more than 100$ and ill bet you it wont die.
dont waste any $ on any flush
Its cocktail time
goes like this:
2 quarts kerosene or diesel (kerosene preferred)
1 quart atf
2 quarts motor oil, light stuff, like 10w30
2 oil filters
drain oil, and install a new (cheap) filter, fill'er up with the cocktail
start and let idle for 20 minutes (do not drive)
replace oil filter
Repeat
replace oil filter
Repeat
most of the gunk SHOULD be gone.
Drain and refill with motor oil and a fresh filter.
variation to the cocktail include 1 additional quart of atf instead of kerosene or motor oil.
Perform at your own risk, its a hail Mary pass, not recommended for engines that DO NOT need major cleaning, might do more damage then it will solve.
+1I would salavage that man.
Drain the oil, fill it up alllllll the way to the oil cap with kerosene and let it sit for 3-4 days. Drain, pour a gallon or two of kerosene through it with the drain plug out.
I would then just run some el cheapo walmart oil with 1 quart atf added. Run that for like 20 min idle and then change it all again.
Then change the oil every 500 miles with long highway blowouts inbetween.
Shouldn't cost you more than 100$ and ill bet you it wont die.
I think that these solutions are worth a shot.
^+2. Nothing to lose. Except maybe towing fees if it dies.
Man, that *is* an ugly one.
Man, that *is* an ugly one.
Don't kill her. There are PLENTY of people out there(myself included) who would be willing to take that on as an engine replacement project. I'd even drive down to atlanta and pick the thing up(I'm in IA).
What condition in the rest of the car in? I bet you could sell her and get some money for a different vehicle ro if you have some friends that are mechanically inclined, see if they would be willing to help you with an engine swap.
That engine is NOT going to come clean. I've seen engines like that here and it's never going to be right. Let that sludger go and get a new engine.
p.s The warr for sludge was 8yrs-120 days reguardless of mileage.
What condition in the rest of the car in? I bet you could sell her and get some money for a different vehicle ro if you have some friends that are mechanically inclined, see if they would be willing to help you with an engine swap.
That engine is NOT going to come clean. I've seen engines like that here and it's never going to be right. Let that sludger go and get a new engine.
p.s The warr for sludge was 8yrs-120 days reguardless of mileage.
Thanks everybody for the thoughts. I AM very mechanically inclined. I have built a couple of collector cars and a race car so I know my way around a small block chevy engine. but jap FWD is not a strength of mine...
I took the back valve cover bank off tonight and it was worse than the front one. This engine is shot, this car is getting crushed. Sorry to say it, but it is...
I've already started to part this car out. With the scrap metal prices being $9.50 for every 100 pounds, it makes the most sense to sell you guys everything you need for cheap and then crush the rest.
This car is NOT pristine, it's been wrecked 2 times.
I'm just not going to spend my time or money trying to save a car that I paid $1500 for when there are much better projects for me to spend time and money on.
if you need parts hit me up soon, this is going to the shredder in 1.5 weeks.
Brian
I took the back valve cover bank off tonight and it was worse than the front one. This engine is shot, this car is getting crushed. Sorry to say it, but it is...
I've already started to part this car out. With the scrap metal prices being $9.50 for every 100 pounds, it makes the most sense to sell you guys everything you need for cheap and then crush the rest.
This car is NOT pristine, it's been wrecked 2 times.
I'm just not going to spend my time or money trying to save a car that I paid $1500 for when there are much better projects for me to spend time and money on.
if you need parts hit me up soon, this is going to the shredder in 1.5 weeks.
Brian
Please get me the Rear brake Backing Plates
Still I would spend few $$ to try the ATF, etc.. mix. Still better to try than just crushing it.
If you are to part the car, please get me the Rear brake Backing Plates. Also both rear Parking brake cables as well.
My 1999 Avs backing plates were rusted out & am using flatened Camry's plate, but still won't cover as good as Avalon's. What color is the exterior/interior?
Thanks everybody for the thoughts. I AM very mechanically inclined. I have built a couple of collector cars and a race car so I know my way around a small block chevy engine. but jap FWD is not a strength of mine...
I took the back valve cover bank off tonight and it was worse than the front one. This engine is shot, this car is getting crushed. Sorry to say it, but it is...
I've already started to part this car out. With the scrap metal prices being $9.50 for every 100 pounds, it makes the most sense to sell you guys everything you need for cheap and then crush the rest.
This car is NOT pristine, it's been wrecked 2 times.
I'm just not going to spend my time or money trying to save a car that I paid $1500 for when there are much better projects for me to spend time and money on.
if you need parts hit me up soon, this is going to the shredder in 1.5 weeks.
Brian
Still I would spend few $$ to try the ATF, etc.. mix. Still better to try than just crushing it.
If you are to part the car, please get me the Rear brake Backing Plates. Also both rear Parking brake cables as well.
My 1999 Avs backing plates were rusted out & am using flatened Camry's plate, but still won't cover as good as Avalon's. What color is the exterior/interior?
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
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