[gaijin666]

96 Camry V6 168,000 miles
-------------------------------
Heavy de-gunkification/booger removal via repeated low OCI oil-changes, maybe 6 or 7 or them, now muuuuuch better..! :grin:

Something new, though:

Muuuuch slower morning warm-up. I'm on Calif coast, but mornings are pretty chilly where I am.

I start up and even before I see the temp needle budge a nanometer I gotta sit there...maybe 6 minutes? :crying: That's crazy, might indicate something wrong. Also initially starting out from stand-still (stop sign or light) there is uneven acceleration, some roughness.

Today I cleaned out the IAC with deep-creep using this cerebral guy's improved protocol::nerd:

What else might I do..?

ALSO:

What are the names of the cheap junk-yard pieces I could replace to optimize passing (crazy California) smog standards..?

I checked in my nearby junkyard and there are a bunch of new victims I could rape for parts, but I'm nooby so I don't know the names of the prime enviro part candidates. :frown:

 

[mcgowaw]

did you also clean the throttle body, intake and 4 components of the egr system with seafoam while you were cleaning the IAC?
tony

 

[dc_98_cam]

I saw that one .. saves you some effort.

 

[gaijin666]

Hmmmmm..!!!

What I did was jam a long screwdriver in a l'il nook to keep the throttle flapjack open. I sprayed a some deep creep down there. Then I went to town with an old toothbrush, let that sit a bit, then slipped a yucky rag down as far as I could and swished around a bunch.

I did maybe 3 iterations of that, white-trash style.

I'm very interested in this EGR Jedi stuff, Master Yoda, and the 4 Sacred Paths of The Force that you mention.

 

[gaijin666]

I think, Master Yoda, you mean this Octopus, and I suspect he breaks into 4 pieces..?

And I soak the crap out of each piece, then wash it out in fancy stuff, then re-assemble, then bolt back..?

 

[gaijin666]

These two UFO things at left and center --they will not keel over and DIE if I soak them in Deep Creep..?

Maybe I Deep Creep that curvey noodle tube at right (EGR tube, I think?), then run some slender rag pieces through there..?

 

[BMR]

Muuuuch slower morning warm-up. I'm on Calif coast, but mornings are pretty chilly where I am.

I start up and even before I see the temp needle budge a nanometer I gotta sit there...maybe 6 minutes? :crying: That's crazy, might indicate something wrong.

Man, that's a classic symptom of a thermostat that needs replacing. In my experience, they almost always fail by opening too soon. Get yourself a new OEM thermostat. IMHO, this is one case where OEM is definitely worth the extra $, and we're not talking a lot.

 

[Kingdom934]

theromostat get OEM or STANT. I would get OEM in the future due to price.

My 2004 XLE V6 has a stuck thermostat...doesn't even get to norm temps most of the time unless i'm sitting in traffic!

 

[gaijin666]

1. At the bottom of here I'll post a still PHOTO of the part I think you want me to replace:

2. Then I'll post a VIDEOl to the procedure you'd recommend I follow in order to replace that old thermostat with a new thermostat. This detail-centric guy usually does his repair vids from The Enchanted Tiki room at DisneyLand, but this time he held off on that, I believe.

 

[gaijin666]

I made an educated GUESS in post 5 above regarding safe repair of an EGR orgasmatron and scrotumizer.

Does my blind guess at the protocol jibe with your experience..?

Can I leave that whole sucker interconnected, or should I break it up before soaking it..?

Or instead is this Deep Creep/tooth brush/rag work..?

 

[BMR]

Yep, that's it. Notice there's a rubber gasket around the flange. If you get OEM, it comes with it. If you don't, sometimes you have to buy that separately.

 

[gaijin666]

Is STANT an acronym, or instead is it the name of a thermostat maker..?

I can get this at AutoZone usually for how much? Do u know..?

 

[BMR]

These two UFO things at left and center --they will not keel over and DIE if I soak them in Deep Creep..?

I'd be leery of soaking those with any solvent. There are diaphragms inside those two that have to flex. Don't know what they're made of, so I'd be reluctant to soak 'em, because it might ruin them.

 

[gaijin666]

OK, the 2 UFO's are a bit delicate and no soak, then, okay.

If I BUY these new at AutoZone, what is each of those called?

I was peering at the leftmost one, and it is cradled in a bi holder flex thingy, and I think I can swap in a new one, lickety split.

But I don't know what those two suckers are called, do u know the most common names for me to tell the AutoZone drone (who I discovered to my horror often don't really know anything about cars..!!)

 

[BMR]

Is STANT an acronym, or instead is it the name of a thermostat maker..?

I can get this at AutoZone usually for how much? Do u know..?

Stant is a brand name. If you go that way, be aware they offer a couple different quality levels of thermostats. Don't get the cheap one. I don't know the price for Stants. I always go OEM, which is about $15.

 

[gaijin666]

ok, cool, I go rich honky on the 'stat (I am one, though ). $15 is totally do-able.

 

[BMR]

OK, the 2 UFO's are a bit delicate and no soak, then, okay.

If I BUY these new at AutoZone, what is each of those called?

I was peering at the leftmost one, and it is cradled in a bi holder flex thingy, and I think I can swap in a new one, lickety split.

But I don't know what those two suckers are called, do u know the most common names for me to tell the AutoZone drone (who I discovered to my horror often don't really know anything about cars..!!)

The one on the left is called an "EGR vacuum modulator". They're not too expensive, like $20 for a non-OEM part. The other one is part of the EGR valve assembly, about $100 for non-OEM.

Yeah, never trust an AZ counter clerk to know doodly-squat.

 

[gaijin666]

Just checked on the EGR valve assembly and u r exactly correct, the price is steep at $100 or more, typically.

Too bad, cuz that's for the 96 and apparently for 97's and later there was a design change permitting a much more affordable solution.

One related subcomponent that appears perishable IS affordable, though, the EGR Vacuum Switch Valve Solenoid; I found several at around $30.

If at first I simply replaced the EGR VSV in addition to the EGR vacuum modulator (which I did order off of FleaBay, just now), is that a logical first stab..?

 

[gaijin666]

FOR REFERENCE:

A guy went through EGR hell and documented it all in this past ToyotaNation thread HERE:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...z-egr-code-p0401-p0402-diagnostic-repair.html

He disassembled everything, soaked robust parts in special solution, and then used an Ohm Meter or something to electrically test everything.

He was very thorough.

He had 2 Camry's and was able to swap parts back and forth in order to determine juuuust the one that was repeatedly giving him an engine code.

 

[DFBonnett]

OP,
Your original question was about warm up time. I will address that. It's almost definitely the thermostat as BMR noted. Buy OEM or high-end aftermarket. Buy once, cry once. Over the 50+ years I have been beating on cars and they have been beating on me, I have encountered the same problem a few times and the solution has always been a new stat. The purpose of the stat is to restrict coolant flow until the engine is up to operating temperature. Yours has failed and is not doing that, hence the extended warm up. This one can't be repaired, fixed, or otherwise diddled with. New.