96 hesitation
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When it comes to smoke, white smoke is usually water and blue smoke is oil. If a big puff of blue smoke came out then i would agree with the too much oil theory, however, usually with white smoke its water, possibly from a head gasket. You stated that the oil dipstick is "smearing" What do you mean? Also, when you checked the oil before firestone changed it, what color was it? Something that resembles chocolate milk is bad and would lead me to believe a head gasket. I doubt all this was caused by the oil change, seems like coincidence.
I know GM transmissions but not toyotas.
$500 for a fluid and filter change and to change the solenoid is robbery.
First thing that caught my attention was the fact you went there for one thing now he convinced you there is a transmission problem? Changing the fluid to make the solenoid work less? Wow, thats shady right there.
$500 for a fluid and filter change and to change the solenoid is robbery.
First thing that caught my attention was the fact you went there for one thing now he convinced you there is a transmission problem? Changing the fluid to make the solenoid work less? Wow, thats shady right there.
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=ToyotaFWD
You can search every transmission type, there is one pressure solenoid thats $206, no shift solenoids cost that much.
Filter and pan gasket as the pan has to come off to get to the solenoid and you might as well change the filter while you're right next to it and it costs less than $15 for the filter and gasket.
If the guy wants to change a head gasket because theres something wrong with the transmission, well, he's an idiot.
You can search every transmission type, there is one pressure solenoid thats $206, no shift solenoids cost that much.
Filter and pan gasket as the pan has to come off to get to the solenoid and you might as well change the filter while you're right next to it and it costs less than $15 for the filter and gasket.
If the guy wants to change a head gasket because theres something wrong with the transmission, well, he's an idiot.
Hmm few questions there. Bear with me as I only have experience with the Jap diesel version but I'll try anway.
Oil: How much oil is in there? You mentioned it had 3 bottles of oil in it. How large is each bottle? I'm not sure of the exact quantity required in a 1.6, but it shouldn't have much more than 4 litres in the sump (sorry i'm unfamilar with US standards).
Auto: I assume this auto is of the electronic type. Does it shift correctly? By this i mean can you feel a proper clunk/ noticeable change in revs with each gear. So if you're gentle at around 20km/h (13mph), 50 (32), 70 (44) you'll feel a dull thunk as the auto shifts each of the 4 gears. These speeds may be a bit off, but you get the idea. Next, does the auto kickdown? This is where if you give the throttle a good stab while driving the auto shifts back a gear. So say you're on the freeway at 100 (63), the auto will be in 4th (overdrive, the top gear) with the engine at around 3000rpm, you stab the throttle, the auto will thunk back into 3rd and the engine revs will jump up. Of course this works at any speed.
All this is so we can see if the auto has any actual problems or if it works normally. If it does seem to work normally, you can reset the computer(s) and see if the error code comes back. To do this you disconnect the negative battery terminal, then press and hold the brake for a little while to discharge any remaining power. After a minute or so reconnect it. NOTE: this will also wipe the settings on your clock and radio. If you have the factory radio, it may have a security code. If so, you will need this code and how to put the code back in afterwards. Also if your car has an airbag it may bring up a warning light etc, one of the US guys can chime in here. After resetting the computers (do these have a separate trans computer anyway?) you can check it for codes. Look in the stickies for instructions on how to check.
Power windows: Does the window go up and down very slowly but is otherwise ok? You can try lubricating the slides and mechanism with some silicon spray, you may have to remove the door trim to do this.
Anyway, hopefully the auto is okay. If there is too much oil in the engine drain it, and refill it with the correct quantity and grade of new oil (a good excuse to familiarise yourself with oil changes!) Another thing that would be worth checking is the spark plugs. Have these been changed at all? This is quite easy. Grasp the large end of the spark plug lead at the engine (not the lead itself!), give it a good twist and pull to remove it from the spark plug (do them one at a time). Next with a socket set use a T bar, extension and spark plug socket on the back of the spark plug. Loosen the plug and undo it (be sure to keep the socket straight so as to not damage the spark plug). Remove the plug and check the condition of it to this:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg
Carefully screw the plug back in by hand, make sure it's in the thread correctly, be sure it's not cross-threaded (most important!!). Tighten the plug by hand until it's finger tight. Then with the socket give it about 1/16 of a turn (no more!) if it's too tight the thead may be damaged.
Hopefully this will help find out what's going on.
Oil: How much oil is in there? You mentioned it had 3 bottles of oil in it. How large is each bottle? I'm not sure of the exact quantity required in a 1.6, but it shouldn't have much more than 4 litres in the sump (sorry i'm unfamilar with US standards).
Auto: I assume this auto is of the electronic type. Does it shift correctly? By this i mean can you feel a proper clunk/ noticeable change in revs with each gear. So if you're gentle at around 20km/h (13mph), 50 (32), 70 (44) you'll feel a dull thunk as the auto shifts each of the 4 gears. These speeds may be a bit off, but you get the idea. Next, does the auto kickdown? This is where if you give the throttle a good stab while driving the auto shifts back a gear. So say you're on the freeway at 100 (63), the auto will be in 4th (overdrive, the top gear) with the engine at around 3000rpm, you stab the throttle, the auto will thunk back into 3rd and the engine revs will jump up. Of course this works at any speed.
All this is so we can see if the auto has any actual problems or if it works normally. If it does seem to work normally, you can reset the computer(s) and see if the error code comes back. To do this you disconnect the negative battery terminal, then press and hold the brake for a little while to discharge any remaining power. After a minute or so reconnect it. NOTE: this will also wipe the settings on your clock and radio. If you have the factory radio, it may have a security code. If so, you will need this code and how to put the code back in afterwards. Also if your car has an airbag it may bring up a warning light etc, one of the US guys can chime in here. After resetting the computers (do these have a separate trans computer anyway?) you can check it for codes. Look in the stickies for instructions on how to check.
Power windows: Does the window go up and down very slowly but is otherwise ok? You can try lubricating the slides and mechanism with some silicon spray, you may have to remove the door trim to do this.
Anyway, hopefully the auto is okay. If there is too much oil in the engine drain it, and refill it with the correct quantity and grade of new oil (a good excuse to familiarise yourself with oil changes!) Another thing that would be worth checking is the spark plugs. Have these been changed at all? This is quite easy. Grasp the large end of the spark plug lead at the engine (not the lead itself!), give it a good twist and pull to remove it from the spark plug (do them one at a time). Next with a socket set use a T bar, extension and spark plug socket on the back of the spark plug. Loosen the plug and undo it (be sure to keep the socket straight so as to not damage the spark plug). Remove the plug and check the condition of it to this:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg
Carefully screw the plug back in by hand, make sure it's in the thread correctly, be sure it's not cross-threaded (most important!!). Tighten the plug by hand until it's finger tight. Then with the socket give it about 1/16 of a turn (no more!) if it's too tight the thead may be damaged.
Hopefully this will help find out what's going on.
Check the color/smell of the transmission fluid, too. It should be a very pale pinkish and smell like nothing in particular. If it's brown or dark or smells burnt or strongly weird, you could use a good flush and some synthetic fluid, that may help baby a marginal transmission into lasting a lot longer. The hesitating during braking may be because the transmission actually does downshift. It won't match revs, and it'll only do it to make sure the idle stays above 1K or so so you don't stall out. There should be two solenoids in the 4-speed transmission (you've got a 4-speed if you've got a little OD button on the side of your gearshift)...and each solenoid goes for about $105. Either he's got lousy part suppliers and can't cut costs or he's charging you a 50%+ markup which is pretty typical. You can pick up the solenoid from Rock Auto...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1275634,parttype,8476,partGroup,33
Re: Oil, the capacity of the system should be 3.6 quarts or 4, can't recall exactly. When the dipstick has that dark little smear at E (but at least the fluid level is up to there) putting in just one quart should restore it to right about F. The smearing is odd, is your dipstick or tube at all bent? Did you do the traditional method of checking? (Pull out dipstick, wipe off, put back in, pull out and read it.)
Re: Battery, about the best test to see what shape your battery's in is to just turn on your brights while the car is running, then kill the engine and see how much they dim. They shouldn't dim perceptibly...if they do, go get a charging system evaluation at Sears or somewhere else, they'll charge about $10 and check your alternator, battery, cables, etc.
Re: power windows, there have been a couple posts about this previously and the consensus seemed to be that the motors do eventually wear out. If you can't fix it with lube, odds are you're going to have to replace the motor.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1275634,parttype,8476,partGroup,33
Re: Oil, the capacity of the system should be 3.6 quarts or 4, can't recall exactly. When the dipstick has that dark little smear at E (but at least the fluid level is up to there) putting in just one quart should restore it to right about F. The smearing is odd, is your dipstick or tube at all bent? Did you do the traditional method of checking? (Pull out dipstick, wipe off, put back in, pull out and read it.)
Re: Battery, about the best test to see what shape your battery's in is to just turn on your brights while the car is running, then kill the engine and see how much they dim. They shouldn't dim perceptibly...if they do, go get a charging system evaluation at Sears or somewhere else, they'll charge about $10 and check your alternator, battery, cables, etc.
Re: power windows, there have been a couple posts about this previously and the consensus seemed to be that the motors do eventually wear out. If you can't fix it with lube, odds are you're going to have to replace the motor.
Heh. Thanks, Mud. There's something to be said for an overall design theme, even if black gets dirty so quickly...I do recall Grandpa's first Corolla (85) being that sparkly metallic blue, though, that was always pretty. Feel free to post pictures of Bluey in the show-your-ride thread.
The mileage decrease could be alleviated by changing plugs/cap&rotor/wires (if applicable) and rotor, generally these should be changed every 30K/60K/80K. If they've been done within that interval, you should still be OK, although if you did get an oil overfill you should probably change the plugs. Remember to pull straight up and not by the wires, or you'll end up having to replace the wires too! (Don't ask me how I found this out...) A good tool I've found for getting them out of the head is either a screwdriver with an extending magnetic bit (perhaps a bit hard to come by) or about a two-foot length of 3/8ths fuel hose. It's the perfect size to grab them out or lower them in. Revving high will decrease mileage, as will driving without cruise control...no idea what's causing the 'roar' in the turns, though. Does it roar when you turn both right and left?
The mileage decrease could be alleviated by changing plugs/cap&rotor/wires (if applicable) and rotor, generally these should be changed every 30K/60K/80K. If they've been done within that interval, you should still be OK, although if you did get an oil overfill you should probably change the plugs. Remember to pull straight up and not by the wires, or you'll end up having to replace the wires too! (Don't ask me how I found this out...) A good tool I've found for getting them out of the head is either a screwdriver with an extending magnetic bit (perhaps a bit hard to come by) or about a two-foot length of 3/8ths fuel hose. It's the perfect size to grab them out or lower them in. Revving high will decrease mileage, as will driving without cruise control...no idea what's causing the 'roar' in the turns, though. Does it roar when you turn both right and left?
Roar when turning one direction could be a bearing going out. If you can get the car up on a stand of some sort, try to spin the right wheel and see if you hear it clicking/slowing/grinding at all or if it freewheels...then grab it at the top and bottom and try to tilt-wiggle it. You shouldn't be able to. If you can, it's the bearings. While you've got it up, also check the rubber thingies (CV boots) over the axles, make sure they're intact and not torn or leaking grease...
Haven't been able to get it on a stand, but I;ll try checking out the bearings next weekend.
Update:
So, my brother helped me fill the battery up with distilled water, and now the window problem is gone! It doesn't make noise when I am putting it back up. There is still a difference when I turn on the high beams then kill the motor, but it's not as noticeable as before.
A clean engine is a happy engine. I cleaned my engine a little bit. Makes be feel better about not having replaced the solenoid yet.
Does a clean engine serve any other purpose than to be pretty?
By the by, everyone I go to says that they'd have to look for themselves and see which solenoid has to be replaced. Any ideas on how much it would cost to just figure out what part I need? Or more specifically, how much time it should take so that I can come up with an estimate based on how much they charge /hr on my own? The shops also say that they'd have to do a diagnostic on their own to make sure they're looking for the right part, but I think they might be trying to weasel an extra 50$ dollars from me. Is this a valid thing for mechanics to do?
Thanks much, everyone!
Update:
So, my brother helped me fill the battery up with distilled water, and now the window problem is gone! It doesn't make noise when I am putting it back up. There is still a difference when I turn on the high beams then kill the motor, but it's not as noticeable as before.
A clean engine is a happy engine. I cleaned my engine a little bit. Makes be feel better about not having replaced the solenoid yet.
Does a clean engine serve any other purpose than to be pretty?By the by, everyone I go to says that they'd have to look for themselves and see which solenoid has to be replaced. Any ideas on how much it would cost to just figure out what part I need? Or more specifically, how much time it should take so that I can come up with an estimate based on how much they charge /hr on my own? The shops also say that they'd have to do a diagnostic on their own to make sure they're looking for the right part, but I think they might be trying to weasel an extra 50$ dollars from me. Is this a valid thing for mechanics to do?
Thanks much, everyone!
Also the roar could be a CV joint. While you've got it up, put the transmission in neutral and try to start rotating the front wheels. The booted part should begin rotating immediately with the wheel, if there's even 1/8th or 1/4th inch of wheel rotation before the booted part starts, you've got a bad CV joint. You'll want to squeeze the inner and outer boots as well, they should feel sort of solid/squishy. If it feels like there's nothing but air in there, even if the boot LOOKS fine, you've probably got a bad CV joint, and regreasing (with a grease gun and a hypodermic attachment) will only put off the replacement by several hundred miles if you're lucky.
You'd probably need a multimeter and a couple helpers and a few circuit diagrams to diagnose the solenoid...find something that tells you the shift pattern, have somebody shift it while you're underneath probing wires and make sure the proper solenoids are getting current at the proper times, THEN do the same thing but with resistances to make sure that the solenoids aren't shorted open...
You'd probably need a multimeter and a couple helpers and a few circuit diagrams to diagnose the solenoid...find something that tells you the shift pattern, have somebody shift it while you're underneath probing wires and make sure the proper solenoids are getting current at the proper times, THEN do the same thing but with resistances to make sure that the solenoids aren't shorted open...
Wah wah waaaaah...
I need a new torque converter. Does anyone know where I can but one. The mechanic I am working with will put it in, but I want to make sure he's not trying to pad his pockets with jacking up the price for this. How do I find out what kind of transmission I have?
And my A/C's all busted up
I am going to crawl in a corner and bawl now. More info after I pick my car up from the diagnostic at the tranny shop.
I need a new torque converter. Does anyone know where I can but one. The mechanic I am working with will put it in, but I want to make sure he's not trying to pad his pockets with jacking up the price for this. How do I find out what kind of transmission I have?
And my A/C's all busted up
I am going to crawl in a corner and bawl now. More info after I pick my car up from the diagnostic at the tranny shop.
1sttoyotaparts, I think, has OEM Toyota stuff for a reasonable price. Alternatively, try junkyards....1993-2002 should have the same TC. Do you have an OD button on the gearshift? Then you have the 4-speed A245E. Do you have the 7AFE? Then you have the 4-speed A245E. Otherwise you have the 1.6 4AFE and the A241E, at least I think it's the 241.
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