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I'd appreciate any advice on repairing this car. Here's the history:
  • Car wasn't driven or even started for over a year and wouldn't start.
  • Battery wouldn't hold charge - installed new battery.
  • Car started right up. Drove it to and through a car wash.
  • Had the oil changed at Valvoline quick change place.
  • When driving home, after about 2 miles check engine light came on. Car died about a block later and wouldn't start again.
  • Checked the oil. Couldn't see oil on dipstick. Because I suspected they hadn't put oil in the car. Manager from Valvoline came out to check car and didn't see proper oil level, so he added oil. He thought the car wasn't getting fuel because he couldn't smell gas by the exhaust pipe after trying to start the engine several times. He checked the oil again and it was overfilled.
  • Car towed to my regular mechanic shop. He drained excess oil but was stumped by the electrical problems.
  • Diagnostic codes returned: P1300 & P1310; also an EGR code (don't know which one; it was cleared).
  • IGN 5 amp fuse blows when key turned to start position; fuse ok in ACC position.
  • Put EFI relay in HORN relay slot. Horn works so EFI relay probably good. These relays are Part # 90084-98031, TN156700-1071 Denso.
  • When jumper with 7.5 amp fuse connected to pins 3 & 5 on EFI relay under hood, car starts.
P1300/P1310 point to:
  • Faulty Ignition Coil
  • Ignition Coil harness is open or shorted
  • Ignition Coil circuit poor electrical connection
  • Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Does anyone know what would be the most likely problem?

1995 Camry LE Wagon
4,489 Posts
The power from the start position through the 7.5A fuse is the signal power to switch the EFI relay. You have a short in that wire from the 7.5A fuse. You'll need to trace the short first. The #3 and #5 pins provide power to the fuel pump once they're switched by the 7.5A fuse power.
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