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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

My problem is clunks and clanks when i turn steering wheel when car is not moving. Its like spring clunks and clanks.


Ive recently replaced both front shocks and strut bearings. Spring is good condition, not broken.

There is no play in lower arms and sway bar links and cv joints are new too.


Strut lower rubber where spring comes is in bad shape. Can it do that noise? Ive rebuilded struts couple times after i replaced these and no problems.


Noise is irritating.


Second noise is like "hump" (not creak) when i "land" after crossing speed bumb. It sounds like springs/strut also.



Help me please.
 

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Have you had those noises before replacing them? If no, check your job. If yes, then other parts might have been worn out as well.
 

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Clunk going down into pothole or after speed bump is sway bar bushings.
As of "clunk when turning but not moving" needs to be clarified as it does not make much sense.
Can you record it?
Is it single clunk? Series of clunks(what will make no sense at all as nothing really moves).
Please, be more descriptive. Yes, spring end does make noise if it is not set right in strut plate or insulator is bad. But it should be single clunk and then none. That's why it is better idea to replace entire strut assembly, than trying to patch it with separate components. Nothing matches then.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry noises in english are hard to explain me. I try record that voice.


First there was big rattle and it was failed shock. I replaced both and first 1000miles no noises, then right started clunk clank when i reversed or drived on my parking space, or turned wheels on asphalt when car wont move.


Its series of clunks. My bonneville did same more badly when upper shock plate was rusted and bearing exploded, but it was more bang bang when you turned wheels at parking space. This is more polite voice if i compare it.


Both plates are good condition and spring seems to sit good. Lowee insulator is very bad condition


Sway bar bushing is new and speed bumb noise is like shock says hump or woah. No metallic clunk or rattle. It comes only when you land, not when you first drive speedbumb "uphill".
 

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Ok, I asm pretty sure I know what is happening. One or all of power train mounts is bad. Reason you have clunks when not moving is simple. Engine moves on mounts when you turn wheel. Moving or not. So if you turn wheel and engine moves, it starts skipping on bad mount.
For the year, mounts are likely gone anyway.
Karpov? По русски говориш?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Noise comes also when you turn at walking speed. Mounts are solid they are not problem. I try today if voice comes. Russia is neighbour country but im not russian on speak it. I visit there often :)
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Sounds like inner and/or outer tie rod knock here. ... Best to also check the power steering rack for play: while the outer tie rod is disconnected from the knuckle / checking the inner tie rod for play.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sounds like inner and/or outer tie rod knock here. ... Best to also check the power steering rack for play: while the outer tie rod is disconnected from the knuckle / checking the inner tie rod for play.
Car was in mot test month ago and no play there. Ive never heared tie rod knocking when car is on park not moving.

Steering is also stiff and no play. Car goes good on highway.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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With the wheels straight, engine running warmed up / running, trans in Park w/ parking brake on, have a helper turn the wheel, get down close to each wheel, and listen on each side ... to determine which is making the noise. Then investigate.

re: mot, understood - but the only way to really diagnose is to narrow the noise to the issue side, disconnect the outer tie rod from the knuckle, and check each tie rod ( outer / inner ) for free play, and while holding the tie rod / turning the steering wheel, check to feel if the steering rack causes any noise / is introducing free play.

I understand the tie rods are not showing looseness / free play when attached (loaded) - but to find the issue, they need to be checked while disconnected (unloaded), for looseness / component wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If i remove wheel, jack car up or even turn steering wheel wheels in ground at grass or sand, it wont be noisy.

I think if tie rod knocks like that, its very poor condition and it should show that condition at mot test or handling.


But i check tie rods just in case of course
 

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I can't tell if the noise is inside the car or outside. If inside, I'd say airbag clockspring; if outside, I'd tentatively say strut insulators.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Cool, but I wouldn't check them, until I had eliminated more than a few other (possible) causes first, if here.

* You mentioned struts - new struts "stress" -every other suspension component- attached: parts that were old, but "servicible" before a strut change, "may" (can : will) wear quickly after. ... Especially sway bar bushings, and sway bar links.

I'd start w/ ISB's recommendation w/ the strut insulators, then would check the sway bar links (lift wheel, then lift under the knuckle to (unload) the sway bar link -> give it a good tug - any "slop", or noise, it's suspect..),
make sure there is some good quality grease in those new sway bar bushings, make sure there is no free-play in the wheel when lifted: 3-9, 6-12 o'clock,
make sure the CV axle boots are in good condition,
make sure there is no "excessive" free turn play when you attempt to rotate the wheel, with the trans. in Park (new CV axle will only move 1/4 to 1/2 inch, "servicible" may move up an inch or so, any excessive rotation may indicate a worn CV axle..)
* try spraying the u-joint at the end of the intermediate steering shaft -> where it hooks up to the steering rack w/ some penetrating lubricant (e.g. PB Blaster), give it a good soak: see if the noise changes ..

Hope the above helps, I wish you well on your detective noise hunt. Hoping it's something easy, but if process of elimination doesn't show it, then would consider checking tie rods .. That noise sounded awfully familiar / why I posted above.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Cool, but I wouldn't check them, until I had eliminated more than a few other (possible) causes first, if here.

* You mentioned struts - new struts "stress" -every other suspension component- attached: parts that were old, but "servicible" before a strut change, "may" (can : will) wear quickly after. ... Especially sway bar bushings, and sway bar links.

I'd start w/ ISB's recommendation w/ the strut insulators, then would check the sway bar links (lift wheel, then lift under the knuckle to (unload) the sway bar link -> give it a good tug - any "slop", or noise, it's suspect..),
make sure there is some good quality grease in those new sway bar bushings, make sure there is no free-play in the wheel when lifted: 3-9, 6-12 o'clock,
make sure the CV axle boots are in good condition,
make sure there is no "excessive" free turn play when you attempt to rotate the wheel, with the trans. in Park (new CV axle will only move 1/4 to 1/2 inch, "servicible" may move up an inch or so, any excessive rotation may indicate a worn CV axle..)
* try spraying the u-joint at the end of the intermediate steering shaft -> where it hooks up to the steering rack w/ some penetrating lubricant (e.g. PB Blaster), give it a good soak: see if the noise changes ..

Hope the above helps, I wish you well on your detective noise hunt. Hoping it's something easy, but if process of elimination doesn't show it, then would consider checking tie rods .. That noise sounded awfully familiar / why I posted above.
Sway bar bushings are 10k old, shocks and bearings with plates new, coil springs and insulators old. Sway bar links new also but noise was before and after.

Outer cv joints new (this week) inner tripods etc good. Reason to renew joints was broken boots.
 

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  • I has those sounds before on couple of my cars. Sounds like somethings isn't tight enough.once it was a front engine mount bolt that was loose and was making a similar knocking sound another was the upper control arms and bad axle lol and one more had a bad right side engine mount that would make that sound while turning the opposite way.i would recommend pushing down and up on the suspect side with the wheels turned to try and recreate road conditions at best.from my experience sounds like a loose bolt or mount.don't give up you got this bro!
 
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