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99 Corolla Rough Shifting when going into Reverse and in 2nd

3K views 63 replies 13 participants last post by  jjabrahams 
#1 · (Edited)
Okay so I have a 99 corolla of course automatic (only 140k miles) and everytime I shift into reverse or into 2nd, the whole engine jolts. And specifically going from 1st into 2nd theres a noticeable delay followed by a strong jolt, and it has nothing to do with temperature. Im not sure if its the engie or transmission specifically, but its the whole assembly. Ive alreadt replaced all engine mounts though and the transmission mount, because Ive read thats a likely problem. Right now Im replacing the timing and pistons. The pistons are for another issue, but I read somewhere that if your car is having shifting issues then its good to look at the timing. The engine burns oil like hell and thats why Im replacing the pistons, Ive read that my generation has terrible pistons.

I dont know if the pistons issue somehow links to the rough shifting but Im out of ideas at this point. Ive read it could be any issue from the O2 sensors going bad, to the damn torque converter being ruined. Theres just so many things it could be. I was hoping maybe someone could help pinpoint the issue. Im pretty sure the ATF is correct, everytime I check it its a a little below whats considered too much on the dipstick.

Some people seem to think the MAF could be causing the issue, or even a vapor solenoid, or even a shift solenoid in the tranny. Im in the middle of the job I mentioned above, so Im not sure if the problem will persist after reassembly. But if it does I was hoping to get some feedback in case it does. Does anyone know what the hell could be causing this? Any and all help is appreciated.

- Some dude whos trying to learn about cars
 
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#2 ·
Did you use oem mounts?

You will need to have a helper to put the transmission into reverse and watch the rear transmission mount. Also inspect the shifter mechanism on the transmission. It could be binding and causing the jerk motion. Inspect the shift cable for play in the cup also.
 
#5 ·
That jolt you speak of is usually associated with mounts. OEM mounts cost about $400 for 4 pack (4 on a 4 speed).

Aftermarket mounts will usually be stiffer then even a worn out OEM mount, and transmit equal or increased vibrations to the cabin. That being said, they should be able to still dampen the "jolt" on gear change to an acceptable level (you shouldnt see the engine trying to hurdle itself out of the engine bay every gear change), so I'd double check if everything was fastened correctly if you recently had the mounts replaced.

If everything looks fine, then if i remember correctly its $400 in parts alone for the OEM.
 
#8 ·
But when the transmission is switching from 1st into 2nd it delays and drags for an extra second (as if its hesitant to switch to 2nd or doesnt want to) and then it jolts into 2nd, and this happens regardless of temperature. And the engine also looks like it wants to jump out of the engine bay, Ive checked, even after replacing them with offbrand mounts.
 
#6 ·
But when the transmission is switching from 1st into 2nd it delays and drags for an extra second (as if its hesitant to switch to 2nd or doesnt want to) and then it jolts into 2nd, and this happens regardless of temperature. And the engine also looks like it wants to jump out of the engine bay, Ive checked, even after replacing them with offbrand mounts.
 
#15 ·
Ok thats a bit different. Just to confirm when you say switching, do you mean manually moving the gear selector between PRND2L or do you mean when you driving down the road, the 1st to 2nd shift?

The Mounts would be more of an issue when you move the gear shifter between the PRND2L.

A hard 1st gear to 2nd gear is more of a AT issue. Do you have an idea on the service history of the ATF?
 
#9 ·
On the front of the transmission, the shifter cable is attached to a ball for the gear selector inside the transmission. Check the end for damage and play by wiggling it back and forth.

When was the most recent time your did a fill and drain on your transmission? The delay can be either the fluid viscosity or a shift solenoid. Scan the ecu to see if you have a code for the shift solenoid.
 
#17 ·
Op could be looking at a tC issue or a clutch problem. If the delay is constant, it could be the valve body plugging or not sending enough fluid to operate properly. Shift linkage could be bent too. That’s what the shifter cable is connected to. To me, it can be a shift solenoid issue, but I’m not sure if the 3 speed or 4 speed had this setup in 99.

When did the issue first start occurring op?
 
#18 ·
Actually it started happening right after I did the last fluid change. Also its worth saying that I did do a fluid change when the car was about 110k miles, and I did a "half batch" idk but my brother told me to. Then I did a fresh batch at 130k, and thats when it started getting rough shifting into 2nd and delaying as well. But the reverse shifting was there before. That issue happened in between those two fluid changes.
 
#22 ·
After the delayed shift in 2nd, does it grab hard? If it is, there’s the likely chance that internally broke or burned clutch. Did you have a shop change your transmission fluid?
 
#24 ·
No I didnt have a shop fill my transmission. And yeah basically its drags on for a little bit after you think it will shift to 2nd, but it wont for a second, and then it will shift hard into 2nd. Its a delayed rough shift. Its both. Like it wants to shift, but decides not to, but give it an extra second and it decides to shift really pretty hard. Sometimes it doesnt though, and sometimes it does. Its pretty inconsistent. I havent tested it that much, but I know that temperature doesnt affect it.
 
#25 ·
Do you remember what brand and model of ATF you have used?

With older Toyotas that came factory spec'd, the best fluid is the OE Dex3 (hard to get since nothing in the lineup uses it and $$$) or anything CERTIFIED (different then compatible/suitable/recommended) for TES-295 ($$)

Older Valvoline Maxlife was good, but now that they are pushing that fluid towards newer transmissions, its getting thinner and not really a good fit as it was just a couple years ago.

Dex III/3 was mineral based. TES-295 certified fluids are a direct replacement. It starts off thick, but sheers down/becomes thinner. Some folks believe that post sheering, your at the same visc as brand new Dex6.
Dex 4 was a short lived GM spec that was a blip
Dex VI/6 is synthetic based. While its robust its thinner.
 
#28 · (Edited)
you can try unhooking the transmission cable from the throttle body, then push the cable all the way in, but DO NOT adjust the nut on it, just leave it hanging, then go for a ride, see how it shifts

if that makes no difference, drop the pan and blast the solenoids with carb cleaner or replace them if they aren't clicking loudly with a 12v source
 
#55 ·
Another possible avenue looking into as well. The kickdown cable/line pressure cable (sorry if its the wrong word) can produce some weird symptoms as well if its been looked at the wrong way. Too little slack and the transmission doesnt want to shift, too taught and the thing bangs into gears.

If you have not messed with it, then of course ignore, but be aware that sometimes the tension on the cable can do some narly things to transmission function.
 
#35 ·
I used valvoline full synthetic dex/merc (suitable for cars that use dex 6). The car does burn a lot of oil, but Im in the middle of replacing the pistons at the moment, because I heard the 1ZZ FE engine has terrible pistons because of the oil drainage holes. And Im replacing the timing and head gasket with all of that.
 
#34 ·
This computer system is weird! I thought that all of you may get as much of a laugh out of it as me. In post #13 from 75aAces, the second photo was not visible because it had a "Rated for 18+" flag in the border! It had the following text displayed; "Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18".

SAY WHAT?!!!!

Yes folks! I fully agree with the Artificial Intelligence here! An image of some dude's hand fondling a shifter cable boot is just too lewd for this forum!! REALLY! The things that people will post here is just remarkable! I need to go wash out my offended eyes with some axle grease!

BWHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

"Computers are so naughty I just want to pinch them!"
 
#42 ·
I've done many drain and fill partial fluid changes on 3 different 1998 and 1999 Camry automatics with Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF. Nothing but good results, even with the new bottle. (Can't find information that the formula changed) And that fluid dramatically fixed problems with my 2004 Highlander, which probably came from previous owner using wrong fluid.

Don't know how different Corolla automatics are from Camrys.
 
#44 ·
Just looked through some old forums, and my car originally is suited for Toyota type t-VI ATF. And people incolder forums say its a bad idea to use Dexrin VI. Some people say it made their car feel "weird." And that it doesnt meet the requirements. Is there a way to get Toyota type t-VI anymore?
 
#47 ·
You’ll need to do several drains and fills to get the bulk of the dex fluid out of your transmission. The viscosity has changed and could be the culprit of your hard shifting.

Though, it won’t be a for sure repair with the new fluid. But is cheaper than rebuild or replacing the transmission.
 
#45 ·
  • If you used Dex VI and some of the shifting problems started after changing the ATF, and your car calls for Dex III, you probably should change back to Dex III or an equivalent. If performing partial drain and fills you might need to repeat this one or a few times to replace enough of the wrong fluid.
  • Not all oil consumption problems are caused by pistons, so if replacing pistons and rings doesn't cure that look into the others causes (bad PCV valve, leaky gaskets and seals, etc.)
  • I presume you've researched the ins and outs of piston and ring replacement, to avoid potential errors. In addition to user videos it's a good idea to consult a shop manual.
  • Will you be checking the condition and clearances of the crank and main bearings? They wont' affect the transmission but this is a good time to address them.
 
#46 ·
Your problem started after you changed the fluid so it is unlikely you broke the motor or trans mounts. It is an internal trans pressure issue. The wrong fluid will do that. Sticky valve body. Bad vacuum shift modulator or vacuum leaks. Lucas Transmission Fix works to clean sticky valve body and has additive to reduce slip. but most important get the right fluid.
At Advance Auto Parts Valvoline DEXRON®-VI ATF Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid, 1 Gallon
(4 reviews)
Part # 883572

$34.99
 
#52 ·
I had said it took T4 earlier, I was incorrect it calls for Dexron 3 fluid. Any fluid that has D3 compatibility should be OK in the trans.

My old car had the A245E, Redline trans fluid worked amazing in it. I also added 1oz of seal sweller stop leak to the fluid and that dramatically improved shifting firmness. The A131L takes the same fluid type and likely would benefit from the additive as well.

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk
 
#58 ·
I'm replacing them just because I figured I would, since I'm taking apart the whole block anyways in hopes to resolve an oil consumption issue that is likely due to bad piston oil drain holes. The earlier piston designs in the 1ZZFE are infamous for this.
 
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