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You are just seeing water fog from a good A/C system battling the high humidity outside.

The drier is inside the sealed A/C system. It removes the slight trace of moisture left after it is closed up. Otherwise a single drop of water would cause internal rust, or even form an ice crystal that holds a valve open or clogs the system.
 

· V8'sRGone
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You are just seeing water fog from a good A/C system battling the high humidity outside.

The drier is inside the sealed A/C system. It removes the slight trace of moisture left after it is closed up. Otherwise a single drop of water would cause internal rust, or even form an ice crystal that holds a valve open or clogs the system.
More than anything moisture in the refrigerant system allows it to turn to acid which rapidly attacks the system killing it.
 

· Toyota Collector
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More than anything moisture in the refrigerant system allows it to turn to acid which rapidly attacks the system killing it.
So, I have a question. My 1987 Camry never came with A/C. At one point, an aftermarket :disappoin system was installed and caused nothing but problems, including blown fuses on a regular basis which ended up causing the car to overheat.

Anyway, I put in a factory system from a wreckers about 1 year ago, a complete install including the electronics and dash controls. I pulled out as much air as I could myself, and it's been like that ever since, not charged. So is my system destroyed? The compressor won't turn on, I assume it's because it has no pressure so the system won't allow it. (the lights in the dash buttons come on but nothing happens, the compressor activates and works if I give it power manually).
 

· V8'sRGone
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So, I have a question. My 1987 Camry never came with A/C. At one point, an aftermarket :disappoin system was installed and caused nothing but problems, including blown fuses on a regular basis which ended up causing the car to overheat.

Anyway, I put in a factory system from a wreckers about 1 year ago, a complete install including the electronics and dash controls. I pulled out as much air as I could myself, and it's been like that ever since, not charged. So is my system destroyed? The compressor won't turn on, I assume it's because it has no pressure so the system won't allow it. (the lights in the dash buttons come on but nothing happens, the compressor activates and works if I give it power manually).
How'd you pull a vacuum? ANd how much? The downside is leaving it in a vacuum will pull moisture into the system.

So Id say thats hard to answer. If the air inside the system is pure it should be fine. Its the contaminants in the air (or in the system) you would be concerned about in a discharged system. Ever seen aluminum corrode? All it takes is a little exposure to the wrong chemical and soon a chain reaction begins which is hard if not impossible to stop.

Now if you filled it with an inert gas like nitrogen (pressurized it) just to keep some pressure in it that will help keep the moisture out. Typically how new parts ship just to keep moisture and contaminants out.

Funny, the FSM says to pull an empty system down for 10 minutes. For us DIY you never want it to fail so I pull them down for an hour or more as the longer you do it, the more moisture is expelled from the system. This vaporizes the moisture making it boil off so its sucked out by the vacuum pump.

Honestly I think the oil is more damaged by the moisture but then again some refrigerants have chlorine in them which combined with water makes it very acidic.

You best bet is to pull it down and dump some R134 in it just to keep some pressure in it keep the moisture out. Eitherway, you'll need a new receiver dryer if you want it to work and last.

Does this answer everything?
 

· Toyota Collector
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Does this answer everything?
Yes, very helpful. I used a vacuum pump with a ghetto rigged system to interface to the A/C line, don't remember how much vacuum I pulled but it was not very much. The system holds vacuum indefinitely, I checked the other day. I'm going to take it to a guy to get it charged shorty, hopefully it will actually function, I can't be sure my car has all the correct wiring, although it did have every connector but not in use, like for the idle up, A/C amplifier and cut, the high and low pressure switches, and the compressor itself.

I also of course added the second fan, the idle up solenoid and vacuum lines, and the extra relay block in the fuse box. All this stuff was plug and play, both fans turn, and I was also able to make them turn at half speed by grounding the correct pin (which would normally be controlled by the "computer" under the glove box.
 

· V8'sRGone
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^^ Sounds like the drip tube is plugged. Theres a fix for that. Pull the carpet back on the passanger side just by the AC unit. First thing you'll see is a black tube poking through the floor. Pull it off and make sure its clear.

Although one guy had his puke a bunch of water out so have some towels handy. He took pictures of the process. But just pull it back under the dash on the left side. You'll see.

Or do search. . . .

Just out of curiousity, what is the humidity level where you're at? It must be real high. . .
 

· V8'sRGone
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Just out of curiosity, what is the humidity level where you're at? It must be real high. . .
The evaporator core is cold. Moisture condenses on it. As the air's blown through the core it grabs the moisture. In the ideal world the moisture is heavier than the air and falls out of suspension at the core and first couple of turns near the core so the water pools into the pan below the core and drips out of the car.

So, either the humidity is so high where you're at that there is an abundance of larger water molecules, the core is full of dust dirt and sediment such that the water clings to it building in quantity as to fly out of the dash, or the the area between the pan the drain is plugged so the water is still trapped just not trapped at the area you inspected.
 

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after using the AC for, let say 15 min, the moisture come out of AC.why?
is it a bad receiver dryer?
I thought you never got your A/C system working after the last 18 page thread?

thanks for your help,i think as you said humidity is the problem.yes the weather in this country is humid.
Not any more than below the Mason/Dixon here. Your system should be able to pull out the moisture just about anywhere in the world if it's operating properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I thought you never got your A/C system working after the last 18 page thread?
last time i made a huge mistake.....sorry:facepalm:
in camry repair manual was written"5sfe does not have AC amplifier",while it has.i took my car to local mechanic and he put a relay instead of AC amplifier or both together, i don't know.i was very angry and not interested to see that part,because every one told me the problem is AC amp and i said NOOOOOOO


Not any more than below the Mason/Dixon here. Your system should be able to pull out the moisture just about anywhere in the world if it's operating properly.
now do you think the problem is that AC amp and relay?
 

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now do you think the problem is that AC amp and relay?
If it's condensation on the outside of the windshield it's just very high humidity in the outside air. If it's condensation on the inside of the windshield or you have water dripping on the carpet, something is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If it's condensation on the outside of the windshield it's just very high humidity in the outside air. If it's condensation on the inside of the windshield or you have water dripping on the carpet, something is wrong.
the moisture is coming out from air flower, instead of only cool air(dry air),moisture air comes out.
 

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Somehow high humidity air from outside is getting into your cab. Mine will do this sometimes because I'll have the windows cracked open when parked and forget to role one up when I drive with AC on. You do have the air flow lever on the HVAC controls set to recirculate and not to outdoor air?
 
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