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Discussion Starter #1
3-27-21
more to come...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
... not so much a conventional repair here, but rather an appearance repair
was thinking about getting the blast from a bucket and blasting this with some soda medium
i suppose that this spotty stuff is aluminum corrosion from humidity and whatever salty roadspray finds its way in there

328004

i did try first to wipe the dirty off with degreaser but not everything came off clean

328005
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
parts and spendin' coin...

328011


i picked up this order in Des Moines Iowa and taco'd it back, they wanted over $20 extra to ship the over-sized under cover and I was traveling by Des Moines then so why not just pick it up and cut the shipping charge off
Processed items
ItemPart #QuantityAmountStatusTracking NumberShip Date
Under Cover51441121401$40.95ShippedLocal PickupMar 15, 2021
Radiator Assembly Lower Bracket16535110302$56.58ShippedLocal PickupMar 15, 2021
Bolt W Washer90119063342$2.66ShippedLocal PickupMar 15, 2021
Under Cover Bolt90080112623$2.55ShippedLocal PickupMar 15, 2021
Under Cover Bolt90159603231$1.04ShippedLocal PickupMar 15, 2021
Rocker Molding Grommet90189060061$1.29ShippedLocal PickupMar 15, 2021
Lighter Assembly85500122401$32.16ShippedLocal PickupMar 15, 2021
Subtotal
$137.23
Shipping (UPS Ground)
$0.00
Total
$130.37

Processed items
ItemPart #QuantityAmountStatusShip Date
Eng Info Label11291160801$3.72ShippedApr 1, 2021
Rocker Molding Grommet90189060061$1.29ShippedApr 1, 2021
Under Cover Bolt90159603231$1.04ShippedApr 1, 2021
Pan Gasket35168320101$14.06ShippedApr 1, 2021
Under Cover Bolt90080112625$4.25ShippedApr 1, 2021
Protector Wiring Ha828171a0701$14.12ShippedApr 1, 2021
Bolt W Washer90119063344$5.32ShippedApr 1, 2021
Bolt W Washer90119088132$2.66ShippedApr 1, 2021
Bolt Union90401120971$3.92ShippedApr 1, 2021
Bolt W Washer91651606252$1.88ShippedApr 1, 2021
Plug Transmission C90341180021$4.89ShippedApr 1, 2021
Plug Sub-Assembly W Hea90341180211$3.10ShippedApr 1, 2021
Transfer Case Shift Shaft Seal90430180083$4.56ShippedApr 1, 2021
Drain Plug90341180161$2.46ShippedApr 1, 2021
Engine Valve Cover Grommet90210060104$4.88ShippedApr 1, 2021
Nut Cap90176060284$4.88ShippedApr 1, 2021
By-Pass Hose Clamp96135513004$11.60ShippedApr 1, 2021
Cowl Grille Clip9046707045224$6.08ShippedApr 1, 2021
Trans Pan Bolt900801149615$11.70ShippedApr 1, 2021
Clip90468140331$1.22ShippedApr 1, 2021
Transmission Filter35330200121$31.20ShippedApr 1, 2021
Bolt W Washer90119063982$2.08ShippedApr 1, 2021
Distributor O-Ring90099141271$4.27ShippedApr 1, 2021
Subtotal
$145.18
Shipping (USPS Priority Mail)
$9.60
Total
$147.52

Processing items
ItemPart #QuantityAmountStatusETA
Filler Pipe Upper Bracket77218-120301$12.85-
Filler Pipe Lower Bracket77216-020101$10.99-
Bolt W Washer90119-063982$2.08-
Spare Carrier Bolt90119-102521$1.96-
Connector Hose Clamp90460-460052$15.98-
Connector Hose77213-121601$47.00-
Connector Hose Clamp90460-220012$12.58-
Breather Tube95311-130221$10.49-
Tube Fuel Main77251-125601$44.56-
Tube Fuel Return77255-125001$35.65-
Hose Clamp90080-463474$5.16-
Hose Fuel95337-060202$33.60-
Clip90467-110733$7.11-
Bolt W Washer91651-606252$1.88-
Clamp90959-014433$13.74-
Mount Strap Bolt90080-112672$2.44-
Breather Tube77012-121401$43.21-
Lower Pipe Gasket77178-200301$1.48-
Screw W Washer90159-A00575$3.15-
Subtotal
$305.91
Shipping (UPS Ground)
$45.85
Total
$336.46
 
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
i certainly hope this current oil leak is not the rear main seal again, i recall having this repaired about 10 years ago / ~ 40k miles ago but am still tracking down the receipt for that
is it common for this seal to leak in that amount of time?

#28 in this diagram
does it involve removing the transmission to get at if its leaking

328015
 

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1997 Corolla
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I'm not sure how common the rear oil seal leak is. It would require separating the engine and transmission, so removing the engine/transmission or possibly just the transmission. My 1990 with 4A-FE engine and A131L transmission has a lot of oil around that area. I'm not sure if it's just the oil pan leaking or the rear seal, and it's not worth pulling the engine/transmission to fix, but I would consider removing the oil pan and resealing it.

It looks like you got the parts to drop the transmission pan and replace the filter. I did this last year on my 1990 and I'm going to have to do it again to remove the valve body. The transmission stopped locking up the torque converter at 45 MPH, and I'm hoping I'll find something wrong with one of the valves. I posted a few pictures of dropping the pan and replacing the filter in my thread about the lock-up problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I'm not sure how common the rear oil seal leak is. It would require separating the engine and transmission, so removing the engine/transmission or possibly just the transmission. My 1990 with 4A-FE engine and A131L transmission has a lot of oil around that area. I'm not sure if it's just the oil pan leaking or the rear seal, and it's not worth pulling the engine/transmission to fix, but I would consider removing the oil pan and resealing it.

It looks like you got the parts to drop the transmission pan and replace the filter. I did this last year on my 1990 and I'm going to have to do it again to remove the valve body. The transmission stopped locking up the torque converter at 45 MPH, and I'm hoping I'll find something wrong with one of the valves. I posted a few pictures of dropping the pan and replacing the filter in my thread about the lock-up problem.
I've been checking the carFax records going back as far as 1998 with detailed services starting in early 2000 at 36k miles
the transmission has been drain&fill/flushed on a regular basis, looks like every 15k miles with the last time being 22k miles ago in 2o14, but its never had the filter replaced as far as i recall (in the early 1990s, as a JiffyLube tech, this transmission filter & fluid service was only $37.99)
so the transmission fluid should not be in this weathered brown condition like i found the power steering fluid, if they both used the same fluid from the get go
... new PS fluid on the left, original fluid sucked out of the reservoir on the right
328438
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
i may have to get some new rear drums (Hub Assembly, as they call it), these are so crusty i cannot even pull them off :( to see whats behind there

328439


328440



if the linings are ok i can get them powdercoated for about $25 each, thats what my truck cost anyways 2 years ago, they were not this bad though (hubcaps always covered them until the caps broke sometime last decade)
or new OEM ones from Toyota of Des Moines for $92 each plus extra shipping for weight which means i can just pick them up at the parts counter the next time i am passing through with the taco
328441

^^^ picture from Saturdays 300+ Taco adventure into Iowa on Hawkeye trail 141 (Sloan to Grimes) the best that Iowa has to offer so far, i.e., not FLAT and straight like the others so far have been
328442
 

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these are so crusty i cannot even pull them off
You can use the two smaller bolt holes and insert two bolts to force the drums off. If you apply a thin layer of anti-seize paste when you re-install they'll come right off without issue next time.
 

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so the transmission fluid should not be in this weathered brown condition like i found the power steering fluid, if they both used the same fluid from the get go
... new PS fluid on the left, original fluid sucked out of the reservoir on the right
View attachment 328438
I'm guessing that the PS fluid is darker because it travels through more rubber hose than the transmission fluid does.
 
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The bolt holes on the drums could be too rusty to use, or you may need to unadjust the shoes from the small access hole on the backing plate to move the shoes away from the drum.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Basically looking to redo most of the entire fuel system underneath, it appears rather straight forward with hoses and clamps
Hopefully my nephew and I can get it done In less than a month starting next month once I get all the parts ordered and transported
The diagram is mildly confusing with the numbered boxes at the bottom, which don't seem to apply to this car unless they are missing underneath from that brake line major repair many years ago that was costly


328665

ẞprouted a new leak on the filler neck after I rubbed and poked at it the other day with the wheel off
It just started dripping behind the tire during the fill-up at BP, maybe I shall take a video of it next time
328668


I do have a new aftermarket filler neck in hand waiting to be put on and waxed up good to prevent corrosion in the future
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
These ornamentß look sharp on black primered steelies, I have two done so far
But those drums need a makeover
328669

So far there are about 1500 miles on the new continental rubber and the traction is decent compared to those old goodyears
 
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The diagram is mildly confusing with the numbered boxes at the bottom, which don't seem to apply to this car unless they are missing underneath from that brake line job many years ago
Those clips may be under the protective strips so you can't see them. Something should be holding the pipes. Maybe you are missing just a few of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Those clips may be under the protective strips so you can't see them. Something should be holding the pipes. Maybe you are missing just a few of them.
I took off one clip from the channel to peek, tried the 2nd clip and it broke and pried the channel a bit more and could not see any holders under there yet and put the protective channel back together
I must find a pic of what somebody else has hidden in the tray
 
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Discussion Starter #17
It looks like you got the parts to drop the transmission pan and replace the filter. I did this last year on my 1990 and I'm going to have to do it again to remove the valve body. The transmission stopped locking up the torque converter at 45 MPH, and I'm hoping I'll find something wrong with one of the valves. I posted a few pictures of dropping the pan and replacing the filter in my thread about the lock-up problem.
now i am wondering if the car HAS to be on a relative level surface (and not tilted too high on one side) to properly drain the differential, like i do for the engine oil change, jack the car up to reach the drain plug from the front, then lower the jack so all 4 wheels on the ground.
i will need to raise one side of the car up significantly high enough so that my shoulder(s) fit far enough to access the fill plug up there on the differential and get at the drain plug, I'm not sure how tight those plugs are going to be

my plan is to back the rear up onto a decent height ramp and then jack the front up enough to slide the other ramp under the front wheel on the left (driver side) and see if I have enough clearance to get at the fuel lines without taking the rear wheel off again
while its that high up i can get at the differential plugs, unless it won't drain properly tilted that way
 

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You probably want the front elevated, to get the best draining action from the differential.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You probably want the front elevated, to get the best draining action from the differential.
i would not have any clue how to get the shoulders underneath if it was not elevated!
when I had the front wheel off last week I was checking out the scene and how i can reach both of those plugs and how much shoulder i need to get as close as possible

i was trying to see if the car needs to be level or can it be very tilted up to one side (maybe a foot, i'll half to measure the ramps height), ie. both passenger wheels on the ground and the other side (drivers wheels) both up on ramps or one wheel taken off supported by floorjack and stands and get at the plugs from the driver side behind the wheel while i am reaching for the fuel system lines to see what all needs replaced and where they go

i am not looking to strip the fill or drain plugs
then i will need to also figure out how to fill the thing since the fill plug is not on top but on the side, maybe a funnel with a tube from the engine topside might work out
 

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I used a funnel with tube from above.

I don't think the level matters too much. The angle with the front raised is not as much at it seems. It's not like the car is at a 30° angle. It's only really angled a few degrees.

As long as you have about the correct amount of fluid it will be enough to keep the gears lubricated. The problem is if people have leaking seals and it drains down to nearly nothing. That's when you get immediate damage.
 
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