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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
do not EVER turn left on a yellow light turning red until oncoming traffic is STOPPED
the guy in the pickup truck was oblivious to the 2nd red light and swerved like WTH are they turning for look in his eye. 'they' being the car in front of me. thankfully the car in front of me turning left did not commit to the turn and follow through, they just had the front end poking into the turn or i could have been a first-eye witness to the scene :geek:
 
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Good advice! Plus some intersections may have an extended green for oncoming traffic, so if you're unfamiliar with an intersection you have to be extra defensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Good advice! Plus some intersections may have an extended green for oncoming traffic, so if you're unfamiliar with an intersection you have to be extra defensive.
i learned this lesson from an incident my younger brother had nearly 20 years ago in his somewhat new Toyota Echo.
he was turning left on a yellow on a semi-icy hill with traffic coming down the hill, he thought they were stopping for the light but it was slippery and they slid and totalled his echo. He was found at fault for turning in front of them
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Is this that switch for the backup lights that don't work?
Flashlight is on top of the part in question
Grayish plastic down deep in there
328767


328768
 

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No, that looks like the intake air temperature sensor on the side of the air filter box. I was trying to find a picture of mine. It's near the front. Follow the thick shifter cable that goes under the battery area. The switch is attached right where the cable ends.
 
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And deeper down, I don't know what that is, but it doesn't look like the neutral start switch.
 

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I forget if you already bought a factory repair manual. There are a few for sale on ebay.


And if you want the wiring diagram also,

 
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Here what my neutral start switch looks like. I'm not sure if it's exactly the same on the 3-speed versus my 4-speed, but they should look almost identical. And there's no reason to replace before testing.

328772


328773
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
backup lights were 'tested' at one time with new bulbs that still did not work, so its somewhere in the wiring i was told

if a new switch is 'pricey' i will just forget about it for awhile, which could be years lol
since I am going to be spending some ample time stuck underneath that area with the transmission pan & filter + fuel filter and tubes i might as well throw a new switch on if its within reach underneath

it would appear i was looking in the wrong spot for this part, its on the backside of transmission & buried underneath
its upper 30s for temps today so i was not jacking the car up and crawling under with the wind blowing

what does a 4sp do at high(ish) highway speeds, does the noise go down any?
 

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It's not on the backside. It's facing the front of the car underneath the battery area.

First place to start is to check for voltage at the bulb socket with transmission in reverse. Then try like I said earlier, move the shifter slightly forward or slightly backward of R position and see if the reverse lights work. I took the switch apart on my 1990 and found that the contact point gets worn at a very specific position. That's why moving the shifter slightly would make the bulbs light up. If your lights don't work even with moving the shifter slightly, then it's more likely a wiring problem like a broken wire or maybe corrosion on a connector terminal.

The repair manual shows how to test the switch. It's just checking for continuity between 2 terminals on the switch with a multimeter. I hate to see people spend money on new parts to replace parts that still work. Save your money to replace verifiably broken parts.
 
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Discussion Starter #31
I will likely need at least one of these to remove transmission and transaxle diff drain plugs
Not sure if the others in the set would have any other uses or not, maybe the fasteners on the intake take the smaller sizes?
And probably can not get just the right size needed and forced to get the whole set for about $30 at harbor freight tools



328776

 

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The intake will be either 6, 7 or 8mm hex. The drain plugs are 10mm I think. You can also use them on the stabilizer bar end links. There might be a few other places.

You can find a cheaper set that is non-impact at harbor freight for $10.
 
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Discussion Starter #33
I forget if you already bought a factory repair manual. There are a few for sale on ebay.


And if you want the wiring diagram also,

is it 'safe to assume' that the manual has everything i need to know about overhauling the fuel system underneath from the rail to back under where they connect into hoses up to the tank (except for the main line), this is the major issue with this car currently and the leaking fuel that continues to get worse

i got a quote the other day to just replace the fuel tank at a Meineke shop, they will have to cut and reweld the frankenstein exhaust pipe to get it out
hopefully the small jb weld upper fuel tank patch i did last fall holds after the filler neck & hoses are replaced and the fuel lines inside the protective channel underneath to the filter, canister and wherever the return line goes from

328840

that tank is not oem but is still seriously marked up from what i have seen out there for aftermarket tanks
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Here what my neutral start switch looks like. I'm not sure if it's exactly the same on the 3-speed versus my 4-speed, but they should look almost identical. And there's no reason to replace before testing.

View attachment 328772

View attachment 328773
I think I found this covered by the undercover of all things lol, but it not looking exact as yours until I get the cover off, broken bolt and others will likely snap too

Now I need to find this part I finally found on diagram after close to three days of searching




84210

328861
 

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Wrong
84210 is for the manual transmission.
84540 is for the automatic transmission.

They just show both on the same diagram.
 
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Discussion Starter #36
Wrong
84210 is for the manual transmission.
84540 is for the automatic transmission.

They just show both on the same diagram.
Thank you, I am encountering quite a steep learning curve!
 

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is it 'safe to assume' that the manual has everything i need to know about overhauling the fuel system underneath from the rail to back under where they connect into hoses up to the tank (except for the main line), this is the major issue with this car currently and the leaking fuel that continues to get worse

The factory repair manual shows detailed diagrams, but it's not going to explain how to pick a socket wrench or if you need an extension. It assumes you have a some experience using tools. The fuel lines from the front to the back are not too complicated, so there's nothing really to say in the repair manual. It does show the proper placement of spring clips on the rubber hoses, like how many millimeters from the end you should place the clip. And gives torque values where needed. The factory repair manual is very good with giving specs to test things like sensors and switches, tolerances for engine parts, torque values, etc.

From the types of repairs you have been talking about I would say that the repair manual will easily pay for itself with the time it saves you in working on your car.

And $45 + 6.25 is on the lower side of what you can usually find these used repair manuals for.

The electrical diagram manual is very useful with diagnosing electrical problems that you haven't isolated to a specific part. The regular repair manual will show you how to test particular parts like the headlight switch with a multimeter, but it will not show you the whole headlight system wiring in one place like the wiring diagram does.
 
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Discussion Starter #38
i will have many questions about this body repair later (most likely if i can get to the point of getting to it)
and i was thinking about chekcing with the local community college body shop class if they need an original project car! for their class so maybe all i have to do is supply materials but not sure how all that works

So....... One of the bigger projects is finally well under way! While my 97 Rolla was under previous ownership, it had a transmission swap. Unfortunately, the shop that had done the work..... I'm not sure why they thought this would be a good idea. But the pulled the mechanically controlled 3AT, which was slipping pretty badly (I know this to be a fact because my parents were the previous owners). And installed the computer controlled 4AT!! Needless to say, it's done far more harm than good! I've been searching for quite some time now for a 3AT to fit back in place. And FINALLY!!!! Last weekend, my son and I found one. The engine was pulled yesterday, and is awaiting it's new PROPER transmission...... The fluid has been drained, new filter installed, trans pan cleaned and new gasket fitted into place. On Monday the new CV boots arrive, so those can be rebuilt. The new inner and outer tie rod ends have been installed (the ones removed looked and felt like they were original with the car). New ball joints installed. New tie rod dust boots installed. And spindle bearings in place. The new radiator arrives today. (Thank God for that, because once again, the one removed looks original. And the cooling fins disintegrate with the slightest touch).
The quarter panels will be cut out either today or tomorrow, and the new sheetmetal welded in. (I'm really looking forward to that one as it's going to turn the clock back several decades with regards to how old the car looks). I'll be ordering a set of 17 inch wheels and 205/40 R17's to wrap them with. Wheel hight with tires on measure 23.5". The factory 14 inch wheels with the standard 185/65's are precisely 23.5". The thing I look forward to the most is seeing the car NOT looking like it's sitting on a set of pizza cutters!!!!
The other big job I have lined up for this spring is an engine rebuild with an eye towards a slight power increase. This will be made much easier due to the fact that I have the 4A-FE. So I'm going to rebuild the lower end, balance and blueprint, then port and polish the new head. The new head...... It will of course be the 20V 4A-GE Blacktop!! Super conveniently, all the lower end specs are exactly the same between the two blocks. I'm not doing this with racing in mind. I just want to make the old girl more fun to drive, and give it a little kick in the pants as far as HP is concerned.
Lastly, the paint color has been chosen. All things considered, I'd much rather go with a completely different color other than red. But given the difficulty and expense of trying to do that.... I just kept looking for a shade of red that I liked the most. The color of choice.... Firethorn Red Pearl.
(I will be doing interior work as well, but don't have everything set as far as planning is concerned yet. Will keep posting as planning comes together. The few items I had decided on so far. The carpet will be removed and replaced. Its currently a light gray. And is being replaced with a charcoal gray. Swapping the manual crank windows for power windows. Power door locks being installed sometime this weekend with anti theft system. Door panels will be swapped out to include control switches. The headliner will be replaced, and windows tinted at 15%. Radio swap from a base level 7" touchscreen to a JBL 7" touchscreen with Apple Car Play/ Android Auto.
And this one may seem like such a small thing, but I want to change out the windshield wiper switch from the basic low/high speed, to one the variable speed delay.
Not sure just yet if I want to either wrap or replace the dash. What seats I'm going to go with. Finding a center console armrest or not. And weither or not I want to indaglow the gauge cluster.
At any rate, I'd thinking the entire project should be done by mid summer baring any setbacks. (Fingers crossed)!!! View attachment 327887 View attachment 327890 View attachment 327891 View attachment 327892 View attachment 327893
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)

The factory repair manual shows detailed diagrams, but it's not going to explain how to pick a socket wrench or if you need an extension. It assumes you have a some experience using tools. The fuel lines from the front to the back are not too complicated, so there's nothing really to say in the repair manual. It does show the proper placement of spring clips on the rubber hoses, like how many millimeters from the end you should place the clip. And gives torque values where needed. The factory repair manual is very good with giving specs to test things like sensors and switches, tolerances for engine parts, torque values, etc.

From the types of repairs you have been talking about I would say that the repair manual will easily pay for itself with the time it saves you in working on your car.

And $45 + 6.25 is on the lower side of what you can usually find these used repair manuals for.

The electrical diagram manual is very useful with diagnosing electrical problems that you haven't isolated to a specific part. The regular repair manual will show you how to test particular parts like the headlight switch with a multimeter, but it will not show you the whole headlight system wiring in one place like the wiring diagram does.
if it says exactly how to remove the fuel filter (depressurize system?) in that cramped area its in i would be quite pleased, i will likely be twisting the bottom inlet bad (because i cannot easily reach it from a prior investigation and look-see through the wheel well) so just replacing the whole fuel tube since the other end is in grave danger of rotting through and drip drip drip sometime not too far away

328887


do you see the brake line out of the protective channel?
from that diagram of parts I am very confused about having one of those 5 tube holders inside the channel, are they supposed to be there and were NOT replaced with the new brake tubes IDK

i guess its called a 'clamp'
$4.58 at wholesale
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Here what my neutral start switch looks like. I'm not sure if it's exactly the same on the 3-speed versus my 4-speed, but they should look almost identical. And there's no reason to replace before testing.

View attachment 328772

View attachment 328773
yes, that part i looked up costs $135 new at wholesale so not replacing that if its still good,
maybe the wiring defect is at the socket back in the trunk where the tail/brake lights are?

wiggling the shifter from park-reverse-neutral and back several times the backup lights did not flicker one bit
 
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