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Discussion Starter #1
Aloha Everyone, Newbie here in need of help.

1995 Camry, 4cyl., auto., 200,000 miles., not the original owner. Normal driving pre-covid was 30 miles a day, 4 days a week. Went undriven for a couple of early covid months, then used for a couple of shopping trips and ran fine. Suddenly having engine sputters when under load. Started a month ago, small sputter but mostly driveable, then within a week got severe and not safe to drive. Starts fine, idles fine when cold, hair over 1,000. When warmed up idle drops to 800ish and stumbles. Pressing gas pedal slow and steady, engine revs fine and clean. Pressing on gas pedal quickly/suddenly engine revs roughly. Pulling the "throttle check down (?)" vacuum line, engine idle increases to 1,800, and no sputtering when gas pedal pressed quickly. Driving under load starts to sputter, varying amounts of gas pedal feathering allows some acceleration and smooth running, but attempting higher speeds or more gas pedal pressure results in severe sputtering and lack of acceleration. But there is no CEL flash warning.

Plugs/gaps and wires seemed fine. Changed fuel filter first. Checked for vacuum leaks via spray method, no apparent leaks, no rpm change. Pulled EGR from top of pipe and plenum, cleaned, nothing appeared bad. Did not pull pipe from manifold. Compression checked and all 4 cyl. 200 +. EGR Modulator tested good. Spray cleaned throttle housing, butterfly, IAC opening. Did not remove/clean IAC. MAP tested bad so bought a new one. New ECT. Fuel pressure test results were good, 36psi normal, 40+ with pressure regulator hose off. Fuel pressure 36 under load. Intake Air Sensor tested good. Bought new Dist. Cap/Rotor.

So there it is folks. Not sure what next. Would injectors act fine reving in driveway but fail under load? Seemed I saw some various threads referencing stretched Timing Belt due to static belt tightener, as well as something about valves becoming out of spec. Saving the PIA injectors for last option. Appreciate any thoughts and advice.


Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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2 thoughts - Ignition (plug gap / electrode condition, wires: resistance, signs of any arcing @ night / under load), and check the PCV system (valve freely moving, hose: cracked, pinched, or collapsed).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
2 thoughts - Ignition (plug gap / electrode condition, wires: resistance, signs of any arcing @ night / under load), and check the PCV system (valve freely moving, hose: cracked, pinched, or collapsed).
Thanks for the thoughts. PCV all good, pulled cleaned, hose clear and good condition. Plug points good, gap correct. Have wondered about wires arcing to valve cover; is this what you mean?

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Yup, that's what I was thinking Jeff - wires arcing to valve cover.

I would also be suspect of water in fuel, -if- you have reason to be: in the states, a few bottles of Red HEET dry gas (available @ Walmart), and a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel tank would help to disperse any water, and lubricate the fuel pump. If running / operating condition changes after adding ... that may help narrow the issue down some.

Greetings & Regards,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yup, that's what I was thinking Jeff - wires arcing to valve cover.

I would also be suspect of water in fuel, -if- you have reason to be: in the states, a few bottles of Red HEET dry gas (available @ Walmart), and a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel tank would help to disperse any water, and lubricate the fuel pump. If running / operating condition changes after adding ... that may help narrow the issue down some.

Greetings & Regards,
Rob
Curious as to why either one of those would only express themselves during load acceleration. I can rev 3,000 rpm in driveway smooth as silk.

Thanks
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Fair question - it is the act of placing demand (load) on the motor that is causing the issue to manifest itself : where the issue does not present without it.

For fuel, an example would be increased flow rate -> through the fuel pump -> motor -> fuel piping -> filter -> injector(s).
For ignition, an example would be coil amperage draw -> firing rate of plugs.
For air, an example would be volume of air drawn into system -> to support combustion / firing rate.
For (air), another example would be volume of exhaust gases created by combustion -> and expelled into exhaust system (manifold, cat. converter(s), etc.)
For timing, example would be demand placed on timing components (belt, pulleys, etc) in conjunction w/ increased firing rate.

I know this is basic / review to you, just spelling it out to give you some possible clues, based on what you are seeing there.
 

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Normally, I'd say it's EGR, except that I am not sure, which Toyotas have it and which do not.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Normally, I'd say it's EGR, except that I am not sure, which Toyotas have it and which do not.
Thank you for your input. My 5fse 4cyl engine has EGR. I removed it from the top of the pipe but did not remove the pipe from the manifold. The EGR "seems" fine but maybe I didn't test it properly. Cleaned it though.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fair question - it is the act of placing demand (load) on the motor that is causing the issue to manifest itself : where the issue does not present without it.

For fuel, an example would be increased flow rate -> through the fuel pump -> motor -> fuel piping -> filter -> injector(s).
For ignition, an example would be coil amperage draw -> firing rate of plugs.
For air, an example would be volume of air drawn into system -> to support combustion / firing rate.
For (air), another example would be volume of exhaust gases created by combustion -> and expelled into exhaust system (manifold, cat. converter(s), etc.)
For timing, example would be demand placed on timing components (belt, pulleys, etc) in conjunction w/ increased firing rate.

I know this is basic / review to you, just spelling it out to give you some possible clues, based on what you are seeing there.
Thanks for the info. I'm sure the proper "clues" are right in front of me, but my Sherlock Holmes self is failing me, hence I'm here, LOL.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Since you're not getting any CEL , I'll relay what I would do here, and let you decide:
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1. Take voltage reading direct @ Battery, inspect terminals, cables, clean as needed. Ensure proper primary electrical system voltage .. as a primary diagnostic step.
2. Clean the IAC valve. Make sure that it is moving freely, it meters airflow -> to the motor.
3. Disconnect @ the fuel filter banjo, disable ignition, and pump a few pints of gas into a clear glass container. Let the fuel sample settle, then check for dirt, rust, water.
4. Check the fuel pump connections, and do a voltage test @ the fuel pump connector.
5. Do voltage, and resistance tests @ the Ignition Coil.
6. Check all primary sensor connections and immediate wiring -> to the harness: Crank / Distributor, Cam, ECT, MAP, TPS. Make sure connectors / wiring are secure. Clean any obviously oil-soaked or dirt-filled connectors.
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If still no joy, consider a "running test" w/ fuel pressure gauge connected. Had to do this on a neighbor's vehicle, to determine a tired / failing fuel pump.

* If still no joy, consider removing the primary (B1S1) O2 Sensor from the Exhaust Manifold, and road-testing, this to eliminate a Cat. Converter failure / exhaust system blockage as being the issue.

- All things being equal above: - IAC Valve, and a tired (original) Fuel Pump would be my first suspects.

Your compression tests, and Ignition checks were good. (Would still ohm test the coil though).
--
Hope the feedback helps.
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Does it happen under part-throttle only, or also at WOT? If it doesn't happen at WOT most likely EGR issue.

+1 upstream O2 sensor, test that.

Also +1 fuel pressure test, but try putting your foot through the firewall first.
 

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Thank you for your input. My 5fse 4cyl engine has EGR. I removed it from the top of the pipe but did not remove the pipe from the manifold. The EGR "seems" fine but maybe I didn't test it properly. Cleaned it though.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
You want to clean ENTIRE system. On Mazdas, they had VERY long EGR pipe, causing major trouble being plugged with deposits. I had that done on son's Mazdaspeed, it was full of crud.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Does it happen under part-throttle only, or also at WOT? If it doesn't happen at WOT most likely EGR issue.

+1 upstream O2 sensor, test that.

Also +1 fuel pressure test, but try putting your foot through the firewall first.
Hello, thank you for your input. Does "what" happen? What problem of mine exactly are you asking about, lol. Just getting up and ready to do some testing.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Since you're not getting any CEL , I'll relay what I would do here, and let you decide:
--
1. Take voltage reading direct @ Battery, inspect terminals, cables, clean as needed. Ensure proper primary electrical system voltage .. as a primary diagnostic step.
2. Clean the IAC valve. Make sure that it is moving freely, it meters airflow -> to the motor.
3. Disconnect @ the fuel filter banjo, disable ignition, and pump a few pints of gas into a clear glass container. Let the fuel sample settle, then check for dirt, rust, water.
4. Check the fuel pump connections, and do a voltage test @ the fuel pump connector.
5. Do voltage, and resistance tests @ the Ignition Coil.
6. Check all primary sensor connections and immediate wiring -> to the harness: Crank / Distributor, Cam, ECT, MAP, TPS. Make sure connectors / wiring are secure. Clean any obviously oil-soaked or dirt-filled connectors.
--
If still no joy, consider a "running test" w/ fuel pressure gauge connected. Had to do this on a neighbor's vehicle, to determine a tired / failing fuel pump.

* If still no joy, consider removing the primary (B1S1) O2 Sensor from the Exhaust Manifold, and road-testing, this to eliminate a Cat. Converter failure / exhaust system blockage as being the issue.

- All things being equal above: - IAC Valve, and a tired (original) Fuel Pump would be my first suspects.

Your compression tests, and Ignition checks were good. (Would still ohm test the coil though).
--
Hope the feedback helps.
Aloha and Good Morning, thanks for the list of to-dos. I'll be starting shortly. I know my battery is already weak, i have been using a "smart" jumper on it regularly during this period, gonna replace it when i get it running. Or maybe i'll replace it immediately, lol. I was hoping to avoid removing/cleaning IAC, small PIA, but probably gonna have to breakdown and do that. Back after awhile.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You want to clean ENTIRE system. On Mazdas, they had VERY long EGR pipe, causing major trouble being plugged with deposits. I had that done on son's Mazdaspeed, it was full of crud.
Thank you for the input. Now, any advice on how to remove the EGR pipe from the manifold. Seemed nigh on impossible when I chose to take the EGR off the top of the pipe, LOL

Mahalo and Aloha
Jeff
 

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short-throw dipstick
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The sputtering/hesitation in your thread title.

Hello, thank you for your input. Does "what" happen? What problem of mine exactly are you asking about, lol. Just getting up and ready to do some testing.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Thank you for the input. Now, any advice on how to remove the EGR pipe from the manifold. Seemed nigh on impossible when I chose to take the EGR off the top of the pipe, LOL

Mahalo and Aloha
Jeff
Everything human hands put together
Human hands can take apart

Namaste

Igor
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Does it happen under part-throttle only, or also at WOT? If it doesn't happen at WOT most likely EGR issue.

+1 upstream O2 sensor, test that.

Also +1 fuel pressure test, but try putting your foot through the firewall first.
Aloha, so car starts fine. In driveway cold engine idling if I quickly put the pedal to the floor, sputtering as rpms increase. If i gradually press to the floor, smooth increase in rpms. I have already done a fuel pressure test and even under load, the pressure was 36psi (see full issues post for details). I unplugged the two exhaust manifold O2 sensors and that didn't change the issue.

Mahalo and Aloha
Jeff
 

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Just a hunch here based on everything you have already checked. I think your 95 5SFE engine still had an internal coil inside the distributor. If it does, remove the distributor cap and rotor and then remove the coil. Check the underside of the coil for hairline cracks. These generations with the coil internal to the distributor had a habit of developing hairline cracks over time and shorting themselves to ground on any metal inside the distributor. This would be worse under load as when accelerating and in damp weather.

Mike
 
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